Hi there. So i replace failing injector, which all went well really. Now i cant figure out my leaking valve cover. I've ordered aftermarket Elring, because VW doesnt sell seal on its own ! Applied Permatex black seal in 4 spots as per manual, torqued to 10nm, cleaned the surface as well and it still leaking ! Leak is at the back of the head. Its PD 1.9
valve cover
- Thread starter WillUK
- Start date
Mongler98
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2011
- Location
- COLORADO (SE of Denver)
- TDI
- 98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
When you put the rtv gasket maker stuff in place, did you give it time before you torqued it down? Should be 20 minutes or so to let it set up.
Mongler98
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2011
- Location
- COLORADO (SE of Denver)
- TDI
- 98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
if you do a search here you will find many threads about this problem and how to solve it, usually involves a new cover.
Turbodachshundinjection
New member
Just make sure that the mating surface and cover are thoroughly cleaned. I have always had good luck with Toyota FIPG, I’m sure it’s coincidental. All the little pieces of old gasket must be removed. Don’t over tighten cover.
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
This is a problem with all aftermarket covers.
My new one from ECS was leaking right off the bat.
I had to apply RTV all around the bottom of the gasket (small bread). No more leaks after that
My new one from ECS was leaking right off the bat.
I had to apply RTV all around the bottom of the gasket (small bread). No more leaks after that
STDOUBT
Veteran Member
What worked for me is the following:
Remove valve cover, remove black plastic baffle from within valve cover, set valve cover
seal-side down in a shallow pan of degreaser to soak for a few hours. The idea is to make the original gasket as squeaky clean as possible. After this treatment you may find it stands higher, and is more flexible. Almost like new. No RTV goo needed. Also make sure the head's mating surface is degreased-level clean. Also observe correct torque value for the hold down nuts: It's only 7 ftLbs or 9 Nm.
Of course, YMMV.
EDIT: when I said no RTV needed, I meant "all the way around" - I still do the rice grain sized at the 4 "corners"!
Remove valve cover, remove black plastic baffle from within valve cover, set valve cover
seal-side down in a shallow pan of degreaser to soak for a few hours. The idea is to make the original gasket as squeaky clean as possible. After this treatment you may find it stands higher, and is more flexible. Almost like new. No RTV goo needed. Also make sure the head's mating surface is degreased-level clean. Also observe correct torque value for the hold down nuts: It's only 7 ftLbs or 9 Nm.
Of course, YMMV.
EDIT: when I said no RTV needed, I meant "all the way around" - I still do the rice grain sized at the 4 "corners"!
Last edited:
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
Results may vary....
Mine was brand new and I cleaned it as good as one could.
Still leaked. Which is why I applied rtv all the way around on the gasket side. Most of it will come of with the gasket next timing belt change. As well you can replace the gasket on aftermarket pans.
I got tired of pulling it and cleaning it and re seating it thinking that was the issue, with no good results.
Oh, and it was torqued to spec and appropriate x pattern
Mine was brand new and I cleaned it as good as one could.
Still leaked. Which is why I applied rtv all the way around on the gasket side. Most of it will come of with the gasket next timing belt change. As well you can replace the gasket on aftermarket pans.
I got tired of pulling it and cleaning it and re seating it thinking that was the issue, with no good results.
Oh, and it was torqued to spec and appropriate x pattern
Seatman
Top Post Dawg
On any PD I've dealt with if the valve cover is removed it always seeps after.
Personally I took the seal out of one of my previous PD cars, cleaned it all up, put a bit of sealant under the gasket, refitted it then a small smear on the face of the gasket. No more seepage.
I use red hylomar, oil resistant one.
It's a cheap easy repair and you only need the tiniest amount.
Personally I took the seal out of one of my previous PD cars, cleaned it all up, put a bit of sealant under the gasket, refitted it then a small smear on the face of the gasket. No more seepage.
I use red hylomar, oil resistant one.
It's a cheap easy repair and you only need the tiniest amount.
Genesis
Top Post Dawg
What degreaser do you use for this?
I've chased this dragon for a while and am getting tired of it. One more try before I pony up for the $200+ valve cover replacement, since the darn gasket is built into it.....
BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
Thanks for posting back solution Will!
STDOUBT
Veteran Member
Sorry I just now saw this
This stuff is $1.00/32oz at Dollar Tree lol
It made my intake manifold shiny inside. I use it on the whole engine bay - soak and rinse. Great stuff and seemingly very mild (but effective). Supposedly a 'concentrate' but I use it straight.
