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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > VW TDI Discussion Areas > Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)

Upgrades (non TDI Engine related) The place of handling, lighting and other upgrades that do not relate to the performance or economy of the TDI engine. In other words upgrades to your TDI that don't fit into TDI Fuel Economy & TDI Engine Enhancements.Please note the Performance Disclaimer

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Old November 21st, 2016, 17:53   #196
Tony7565
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: San Diego, CA
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If anyone has any questions let me know. I was able to successfully complete the conversion a couple weeks ago on a 2003 Jetta. Bought a new steering wheel, airbag, 451 relay, 451 relay harness, turn signal stalk, and aftermarket radio steering wheel control interface off eBay; total cost $316. It's a little bit of a pricey mod, but I gotta say the multifunction steering wheel is a game-changer...it's awesome.


Quote:
Originally Posted by waldo22 View Post
UPDATE: I now have Wiring Diagrams for adding the MF steering...

T18c Pin - color/stripe - function
1 - orange/brown - CAN Low (in 2002+ cars that use 451 relay and CAN)
2 - - no connection
3 - orange/brown - CAN High (in 2002+ cars that use 451 relay and CAN)
4 - black/white - Cruise related, clip on to wire from T10s/4 or T10s/7 from signal stalk, or tap-in to T10e/3 (connector in water-tight box)
5 - lavender - REM wire for remote control of radio, to T20/11 "green" connector behind radio head unit, not needed when using 451 and CAN
6 - green/purple - K-wire (diagnostic wire) T16/7 in instrument panel wiring harness, (OBDII port), below inst. panel, left
7 - - no connection
8 - red/yellow - Cruise - tap-in to T10e/2 in water tight box
9 - brown/yellow - connect to horn relay, S1/6 (bottom left on relay panel, marked "53"), cut wire that is already connected there (it currently goes to T5b/3 on steering wheel) leaving a stub of a few inches from S1/6, and crimp T18c/9 to the stub of S1/6
10- brown - Ground, 1 in instrument panel wiring harness (Brown wires above clutch)
11- - no connection
12- black/red - 12V switched, connect to Fuse 5 in fuse panel (7.5 Amps) When connecting, you should splice this T18c/12 wire AND the wire from T5b/3 that you cut from S1/6 above together into the wire from Fuse 5. Therefore 12V switched from Fuse 5 should go to the middle of T5b/3 on cancelling ring AS WELL AS pin 12 on T18c-- T18c/12 does NOT need this w/ CAN (451), BUT T5b/3 STILL DOES!
13- red/green - 12V power, connect to fuse 40 in the fuse-panel but if you don't do that, you should use an in-line fuse
14- red/grey - Cruise - tap-in to T10e/9 in water tight box
15- grey/blue - ILLUM wire - tap in to T3c/3 in instrument panel light dimmer switch... Not needed w/ CAN (451)
16- blue - Cruise - tap-in to T10e/1 in water tight box
17- - no connection
18- yellow - Horn, T5b/1 on cancelling ring (at steering wheel) you will probably have to add this wire, it is on the far right of the yellow T5B/1 connector on the steering column as you are looking at the steering column.

Some more info:

451 is the newer relay that you use with 2002+ cars with CAN Bus. 452 is the older relay that you use with 1999, 2000, and 2001 cars that use 3LB (12V Switched, Illumination, and the REM wire). T18c is the connector (pictured below) for the 451 or 452 relay in the relay panel. T5b is the connector on the cancelling ring where the steering wheel attaches. T10s is in turn-signal stalk, T10e is in white Water-tight box in the plenum chamber on the driver's side. I got to it by laying the driver's seat all the way back and lying upside down with my head under the dash and my legs on the headrest. It was a pain in the butt (and the lower back), but I'd rather do that than removing my windshield cowling to access the white water-tight box from the top-side. I used gel-filled wire-taps to "tap in" to the wires in T10e, rather than cutting them and re-crimping.


Wes
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Old February 27th, 2017, 13:59   #197
2stroke
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SWEDEN
TDI(s): 2.0 TDI PD
Default Steering Wheel Swap... ?

( 2004 ) Passat Wagon 4-Motion

Car has a 4 spoke multifunction steering wheel and I can't stand the appearance of it.

I would like to fit a 3 spoke multifunctional steering wheel from another VW

Is it possible ?

Suggestions of suitable steering wheels ?


Last edited by 2stroke; February 27th, 2017 at 21:34.
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Old February 27th, 2017, 17:39   #198
RexNICO
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Location: South of Atlanta
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Short & simple - yes

A 3 spoke MFSW is a little more work.
This might help
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxj...IyM0FQUVE/edit
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Old March 11th, 2018, 10:48   #199
Allen Vos
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: ONTARIO, CANADA
TDI(s): 2000 JETTA
Default 451 relay in 2000 TDI Jetta?

Hi guys, I'm putting a multi function steering wheel into my 2000 TDI jetta. Everything I have read indicated that I need the 452 relay due to lack of CAN bus on my car. I have an aftermarket radio in the car so I only need the cruise and horn functions. I have a 451 relay and access to VAG-Com. Is there any way possible to get the 451 relay to work in my car?

Thanks in advance guys, just thought I would post before I track down a 452 relay
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Old March 14th, 2018, 11:32   #200
bobbiemartin
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Jacksonville, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allen Vos View Post
Hi guys, I'm putting a multi function steering wheel into my 2000 TDI jetta. Everything I have read indicated that I need the 452 relay due to lack of CAN bus on my car. I have an aftermarket radio in the car so I only need the cruise and horn functions. I have a 451 relay and access to VAG-Com. Is there any way possible to get the 451 relay to work in my car?
I've never tried this, but supposedly you can change from Can to non-can by coding. See this article. However, you can get a 452 relay on ebay for less than $10 so that may be an easier alternative.
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Old July 22nd, 2018, 19:36   #201
dedededanny
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Poconos PA
Default Almost done

I got everything working except the horn and cancel button. The cancel buttons work if only if you press the one on the stalk and the wheel simultaneously. I read something about having to switch the wires around so they're in series rather than parallel since they activate 0v, 5v when not pressed, but I can't picture how that would work. The horn I'm stumped. In VCDS measuring blocks, it detects all the wheel buttons, but I don't know how to check if it detects the horn. I tried the output test and it activated the horn from there, but pressing it does nothing. Any thoughts? I'm using the 451 btw

UPDATE: I figured I'd leave this here in case someone has a similar issue, but I found out one of the 4 copper tabs that detect the metal spring plates being pushed down was bent, so the horn just didn't work, and occasionally would just go off and keep honking. I fixed it by taking the airbag off and carefully bending the copper tab down a tad. If you shine a light and look at it from the right angle while pushing, you can kinda see which ones are making a connection/not disconnecting. I might add that occasionally as soon as I turned the key after the battery was disconnected and reconnected, it would honk briefly on its own.

The cruise buttons I'm still confused about, but I can just cancel it with the brake pedal so it's not the end of the world

Last edited by dedededanny; July 23rd, 2018 at 10:27.
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