Fuel filter change without VAGcom

2011 JSW TDI due for the second fuel filter change @ 40K would like to do it myself but I do not have the capability to run the fuel pumps other than jumping them with 12V.

I recall reading somewhere that a fella simply topped off the filter housing with fuel prior to reassembly and fired up the engine without incident.

Thoughts, comments, experience, tips ???


Thank you.

Change the filter add some diesel and just turn ignition on and off a few times and you'll be fine.

Priming the fuel pumps after filter change

Just changed the fuel filter yesterday on my '09 Jetta TDI Sportwagen. the 40K mile check was due now. I filled the filter canister up 2/3 with a diesel fuel additive I bought at NAPA (32oz). I then lifted up the rear seat bench, folded back the carpet on the passenger side, and there was my fuel tank pump. I pried off the plastic cover and unplugged the wiring harness. The brown wire is negative (ground) and the red/blue is positive. I used a 16 guage wire with alligator clips on each end. I attached one from the positeve terminal on the fuel pump, also labeled #1 on the wiring harness, to the positive terminal on my car battery. I then attached one wire to the negative terminal on the pump, also labeled #5, and connected the other end to the negative terminal on the battery. The pump immediately started to hum which meant it was running. You need to run both pumps at the same time, just as a VAG-COM or VCDS does. Find your pump on the engine. The two electrical leads have a rubber boot covering the terminal. You only have to pull back the boot on the positive lead, the one on the right as you stand in front of the car facing rearward. Run a cable from the positive side of the battery to the positive terminal on the engine pump. The pump will start immediately. You don't have to run a wire from the negative battery terminal to the pump because it is already grounded. Have a helper time you. Run both pumps for a minute and then let them cool for a couple minutes. Repeat three times. You will hear air gurgle through the pump on the engine and work its way to the tank. The ignition key was off the entire time. To turn off your "Service Now" light, the ignitions should be off. Press and hold the 00 trip meter button on the dash. Then turn the key to the "on" position and let up the 00 button. Press the "minute" button and that should clear the message from appearing the next time you start the car.

Cycling the key does not run the pump on your model of TDI. Use jumper wires or (preferably) VCDS. There are plenty of folks out there that have VCDS and can help you out if you ask.

No matter how you do it, you should not notice any IMMEDIATE problems as long as the car starts ok, but the service manuals supposedly specify using VCDS or its' equivalent.

Bill

This has really been beat to death. I know that on my car if you refill the canister about 2/3 and put new filter in it will start without hesitation. I am sure that the other methods are ok and preferred but this works for me and I don't think I am causing any damage. My guess is that most dealers do it this way. I have 51000 on my car and it runs very good.

Mert Cheney

Opening the fuel filter doesn't devoid the HPFP of fuel... I don't understand why people think this... Theoretically if the canister is refilled it should be as if the system was never opened. Of course, I could be all wrong too.

nikhsub1 said:

Opening the fuel filter doesn't devoid the HPFP of fuel... I don't understand why people think this... Theoretically if the canister is refilled it should be as if the system was never opened. Of course, I could be all wrong too.

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I know he asked the same question over on the other site, obviously looking for a variety of input. But, if those that run the pumps can hear the air gurgling through the system, there must be air in there. Knowing that air is what breaks the HPFPs, I have concluded it's not worth the risk, even though many on this site and VW techs may just fill up the cannister and start it up.

Do you think VW techs care about what happens to your TDI down the road?

TDIAustin said:

Do you think VW techs care about what happens to your TDI down the road?

Click to expand...

Probably not but if VWOA is footing the bill on a blown HPFP they may look back and see who did what to the motor and act on that. If air bubbles in the fuel was a contributor to the failures VWOA (I think) would mandate that the dealers techs follow procedures when doing the filter swap.

Heck, I was even told by the dealer that they just fill the canister with fuel when changing the filter so I had no qualms about doing the same thing when doing the 40k service in May. Started without so much as a hiccough.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is the fuel filter on the suction side of the HPFP or discharge? If on the discharge side then the air is simply going thru the engine and injectors and not the HPFP ...

I did 7 VCDS-less fuel filter changes on my '09. Never a stumble and all was well until it met a Chevy 4wd pick up truck.

I stuffed paper all around and under the cannister and made sure fuel squished out as I tightened the cover down.


Tim

I did mine without VCDS. I used PS to fill the canister. I also turned the key on and off a few times before cranking. No issues.

Trust VW tech procedures and going against the VW maintenance manual at your own risk. The techs at my dealer couldn't fix a squeaking window, set the radio controls or operate the bluetooth successfully.

My fuel filter gasket started leaking out of the blue and I had to have it towed in. So their work and their procedures are suspect in my opinion.

Not all dealerships (or mechanics) are created equal. The shop foreman at our Kingston, NY, dealer drives a tdi himself and has been very helpful. Sorry your dealer isn't up to snuff.

TDIAustin said:

Trust VW tech procedures and going against the VW maintenance manual at your own risk. The techs at my dealer couldn't fix a squeaking window, set the radio controls or operate the bluetooth successfully.

My fuel filter gasket started leaking out of the blue and I had to have it towed in. So their work and their procedures are suspect in my opinion.

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^^^ I am too.

TDIAustin said:

I know he asked the same question over on the other site, obviously looking for a variety of input. But, if those that run the pumps can hear the air gurgling through the system, there must be air in there. Knowing that air is what breaks the HPFPs, I have concluded it's not worth the risk, even though many on this site and VW techs may just fill up the cannister and start it up.

Do you think VW techs care about what happens to your TDI down the road?

Click to expand...

Got a link the establish the hpfp failures are due to air in system, from filter changes?

There's this posted by neekap:

Well fortunately they (VW) said "it's covered under warranty" so thank goodness for that.
They said that there was an air bubble in the line that messed up one of the fuel pumps and the whole fuel system needs to be replaced. He said if it wasn't under warranty it would be above $10K.
I honestly haven't done much looking into the HPFP issues (ignorance is bliss) -- is that what this sounds like?

You can read the thread, "How screwed am I?" for more info. It's been discussed many times that the procedure for changing the fuel filter, regardless of how you do it, is to keep air from getting in the lines, specifically to protect the HPFP. Just search this and read the many threads.

Here is what I do on my 2011:

I remove the filter and evacuate the canister to slurp up any water/debris/etc with my mityvac oil extractor. I then add a little fuel, place the filter, then top off to the level I found when I initially pulled the cover. Let the fuel settle into the filter a bit and add more if you need.

If you overfill you make a mess. Too little and you will need the vagcom.

I have never had a single problem except the last time, when I under-filled. This was not just a little - I probably only filled to about 2/3. I was not being careful, eye-balled it, figured it was "close enough": I was wrong. Otherwise, this method has never yielded a single burp, belch, hiccup or stumble from the engine. That was my eighth fuel filter change.

As someone mentioned, the newer cars do NOT cycle the pumps with the key. This will do nothing.

This is not a big deal, you can do it - just restore the fuel level to the level you find when you open it.

PS: Some great YouTube videos out there with torque specs for the cover screws and everything


Have fun and good luck!

nikhsub1 said:

Opening the fuel filter doesn't devoid the HPFP of fuel... I don't understand why people think this... Theoretically if the canister is refilled it should be as if the system was never opened. Of course, I could be all wrong too.

Click to expand...

^^^^ This ^^^^

Biggest old wives tale on TDIClub...hands down...

TDIAustin said:

There's this posted by neekap:

Well fortunately they (VW) said "it's covered under warranty" so thank goodness for that.
They said that there was an air bubble in the line that messed up one of the fuel pumps and the whole fuel system needs to be replaced. He said if it wasn't under warranty it would be above $10K.
I honestly haven't done much looking into the HPFP issues (ignorance is bliss) -- is that what this sounds like?

You can read the thread, "How screwed am I?" for more info. It's been discussed many times that the procedure for changing the fuel filter, regardless of how you do it, is to keep air from getting in the lines, specifically to protect the HPFP. Just search this and read the many threads.

Click to expand...

Then why would vw add anti-gas fuel to the 2013s or refit older models? Why have many other dealerships and vw pointed towards mis-fuel or bad fuel? Why haven't the dozens of other tdiclub members who don't use vcds have failures? Why are failures happening when only dealerships have "properly" serviced the fuel system?

I just doubt that the hpfp failures would be due to a drain and manual full refill filter change.

IFRCFI said:

^^^^ This ^^^^

Biggest old wives tale on TDIClub...hands down...

Click to expand...

Agreed, Both my gurus laughed when I came to them like a scared little girl after I read everything on here about Only using VCDS to do the ff. Telling them I was sure my HPFF was going to go because I did all the ff changes without it. Well I'm at 100,500 miles and going strong.

+1 fdizz! I'm at 105K miles and have done all my fuel filter changes w/o VCDS. Nary a burp and runs great.

fdizz said:

Agreed, Both my gurus laughed when I came to them like a scared little girl after I read everything on here about Only using VCDS to do the ff. Telling them I was sure my HPFF was going to go because I did all the ff changes without it. Well I'm at 100,500 miles and going strong.

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2011 Sportwagen TDI fuel filter

Greetings Y'all,
Today at bit over 60,000 miles I changed the fuel filter in our 2011 TDI Jetta Sportwagen. I removed the old filter and it looked brand new - no sign of any water. I then replaced the O ring installed the new filter, toped off the amount of fuel in the filter canister, replaced the canister lid and tightened down the screws. I then got in, hit the key and ,low and behold, the engine started and ran just great. This is when the engine was suposed to go PUFF, and end up in that great VW graveyard in the sky, because I did not use the required # 8473957XYZ super duty VW electronic device. Friends, I have been twinting wrenches for a few years now. (I'm 69) Sometimes one can change a filter all by themselves and in the effort save a good bit of change. CHA-CHING is the sound of the VW money drawer you don't have to hear. By the way. the last time I bought this filter it was from stockwiseauto.com and it cost $14.38 + ship. I will be ordering half a dozen in a few days and have them on the shelf along with ten or twelve Mann oil filter #HU719/7X @$4.74 each + ship. Hope this helps.
Have fun,
buckshot

Over the years of owning a VW, I've found that owners of VW's seem to truly believe our cars are magical machines which require absolute perfection on every bit of maintenance. After owning a TDI for just a few months, I think the obsession and the passion here is even worse.

Thus far I've had to come to grips with the following

• I can change the fuel filter and simply fill most of the canister
• I can service the DSG by putting in about the same amount of fluid I took out
• I can easily ad the DEF fluid with just a plain old funnel
• I can easily put in an additive with the misfueling guard in place

pparks1 said:

Over the years of owning a VW, I've found that owners of VW's seem to truly believe our cars are magical machines which require absolute perfection on every bit of maintenance. After owning a TDI for just a few months, I think the obsession and the passion here is even worse.


Thus far I've had to come to grips with the following

• I can change the fuel filter and simply fill most of the canister
• I can service the DSG by putting in about the same amount of fluid I took out
• I can easily ad the DEF fluid with just a plain old funnel
• I can easily put in an additive with the misfueling guard in place

Click to expand...

Good to hear pparks1, and from others too. I suspect you're all probably right on about the filter and saving $250 for the VCDS is attractive. I think being meticulous about making sure you get enough fuel in the cannister and letting it soak into the filter first are probably the keys to ensuring air doesn't enter the system, whether or not you think that is the source of damage to HPFPs. I may just take this approach myself as I am not a mechanic and would not otherwise need the VCDS.

I now add my additive using the 3 oz Walmart cups and just pour it in, right past the misfueling guard. This is so easy and quick. Throw the cup away and hit the road.

Can't comment on DSG as I have a 6 speed.

I don't normally replace fuel filters, but when I do, I don't use vagcom.

The thing with VCDS is that it's not expensive if you are going to wrench on the car alot and do most of your own service work. On the other hand, if you are going to do the simpler things, like change your own DSG fluid, it could be cost prohibitive for that.

In my old Passat, it called for 5-40w standard motor oil. While couldn't be found anywhere. It stated in big bold letters, you could use 5-30 in a pinch. Took my car to the dealer for an oil change once and they used 15-40. I actually make them sign off on the receipt that my car would still start in the winter with the oil being much thicker. Also read the big bold print in the book saying to never overfill the oil, but yet on 2 occasions my dealer did overfill. When I questioned them about it, they were like, it's fine...nothing to be concerned about. But on an internet forum, being overfilled slightly would result in an instant drain or tow. It's just the way many of us are wired.

amstel78 said:

I don't normally replace fuel filters, but when I do, I don't use vagcom.

Click to expand...

/Signature

this is a little like pulling out as a plan, great in theory, but better to put on a rubber.

Simple

After scouring the webs for advice on this subject I performed the change yesterday and was successful.

1) With a cool engine to prevent fire, wrap an old towel around the base of the canister to catch spilled fuel.

2) Open canister carefully, sticks a bit so gently pry lip until fingers fit under it. Be sure to carefully pull back the cover and not get dirty. Sit screws to the side.
3) Remove dirty filter slowly allowing to drain into canister. Once to the top of canister the filter can be cocked at an angle allowing you to walk away while the rest drains. Once drained, pick it up with a bag to avoid spilling and discard properly.
4) Remove O ring and replace.
5) Without adding more fuel simply place the filter in the canister and allow it to soak for a while.
6) Pull filter up and attach center hole to cover mechanism.
7) Slowly allow the filter to re-enter canister but leave a gap at the top big enough to allow more fuel to be poured in.
8) Carefully pour fuel into side of canister and as it tops or overflows gently push the canister lid on and hold down with hand.
9) Replace bolts while keeping pressure on top.
10) Let is sit for a few minutes. I have no idea why but it makes me feel better. Wipe of your hands as well.
11) Start car and let it run for a few minutes. You are done and your car works fine.

If this doesn't work, you did something wrong and you shouldn't be working on cars. I had room for error and a great set of tools so I knew if it went wrong I was good. The process is simple and is very quick. There will be some person who suggests I got lucky but there is no luck in a pressurized fuel system. It either works or it doesn't.