Injection pump

A scan won't say anything about the fuel pump. At this point, it's all about testing with your digits, rather than testing digitally.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=225672 look in post #7 for testing, #5 for replacement.

Check fuse #28 is installed and good.

Diesel fuel in oil

Hello everyone,
I just recently purchased a 2003 Jetta GLS TDI. I really like the car, it drives great. I changed the engine oil as soon as I got it home because it was a little over the sticker mileage. Then I called the dealers that had worked on it and found that the Timing belt wasn't changed at 100K so I bought the kit to install new timing belt and while I was at it I changed the oil/filter in the Trans. My issue now is that I'm gaining engine oil, which has to be that I'm getting diesel fuel in my oil, so my question is, is that happening because of injector nozzles leaking or is there any other way on the TDI for that to happen?

Loosen your oil drain plug on the oil pan and see what drips out. There's really no way for diesel to get in the engine oil from the injection pump. A streaming nozzle can wash down the cylinder and do it, but I'm suspecting something else - like coolant.

Was the water pump, tensioner, idler pulleys, and engine mount bolts included in your timing belt kit?

Yes I got the extended kit, it pretty much included everything, all new idlers including the tensioner, water pump, thermostat and housing, serpentine, and tensioner for serp. I noticed when I changed the engine oil right after purchased that it seemed thin. There was no antifreeze in it, it would have come out first being heavier than the oil. I got the best kit from Blauparts.

one other thing I've noticed is that I drive 100miles per day and I've already gained about 1/2 quart!

sorry that was in about 500 miles total, I'm new to this!

Hmmm - there's something strange going on.

Has it continued to go up a little bit every day or did you just check it at 500 miles and it's higher than it was when you filled it?

Check it every day before you start it, cold, same location if you can to see if you're actually gaining engine oil.

Let us know what you find...

I wonder if you've got the injector return line going into the vacuum pump. I can't see an injector putting a half quart of fuel in the crankcase in 500 miles.

Injection Pump Leak

Bought my first TDI a little over a month ago. Between windows, locks, oil leaks and electrical issues, it has kept me busy while trying to keep it on the road.

Last night I replaced the power steering pump when I noticed fuel leaking from the injector pump--front and back. According to several threads this is common because of the LS Diesel in the market. This morning I ordered a seal kit from HansAuto out of NC. The seal replacement seems pretty straight forward. The VAG COM adjustment needed to properly seat the pump cover is the most problematic step for me. I've contact several mechanics in the area but none have been helpful, so I reached out to a fellow TDIClub member and am waiting to hear back.

Considering my dangerous status as a "newbie", any feedback or recommendations are very welcomed.

Thanks for making this resource available!

Abu Jordan said:

Bought my first TDI a little over a month ago. Between windows, locks, oil leaks and electrical issues, it has kept me busy while trying to keep it on the road.

Last night I replaced the power steering pump when I noticed fuel leaking from the injector pump--front and back. According to several threads this is common because of the LS Diesel in the market. This morning I ordered a seal kit from HansAuto out of NC. The seal replacement seems pretty straight forward. The VAG COM adjustment needed to properly seat the pump cover is the most problematic step for me. I've contact several mechanics in the area but none have been helpful, so I reached out to a fellow TDIClub member and am waiting to hear back.

Considering my dangerous status as a "newbie", any feedback or recommendations are very welcomed.

Thanks for making this resource available!

Click to expand...

DANGEROUS IS RIGHT!!! No offense.. but you bought parts from Prothe. HansAuto is a chinesium clone part site that sells absolute garbage that will destroy your car. Search for prothe, peter rothenbacher, emiata, hansauto.

Good luck!

Dude, you have found yet another 'prothe' site. BAD, BAD reputation. Do a search for 'prothe' and you will see.

Cancel the order, if possible. Even if you can't cancel the order, buy the genuine Bosch seal kit from dieselgeek.com A well known and reputable distributor.

Tony

What luck!! And I was going to name my next child Prothe.

I bought a seal kit which includes the security socket for $23.00. Hopefully we'll be OK.

Abu Jordan said:

What luck!! And I was going to name my next child Prothe.

I bought a seal kit which includes the security socket for $23.00. Hopefully we'll be OK.

Click to expand...

Keep the socket, throw away the seal kit.

ok how do you know if you have the manual pump or the auto one?

Moyerboy said:

ok how do you know if you have the manual pump or the auto one?

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Do you mean, if you buy a used one and you don't know whether it came out of a car with a manual transmission or an automatic transmission? You need to ask that question at the very beginning of the purchase negotiation.

The one out of an automatic will be an upgrade for a manual-transmission TDI. Going the other way just results in a big drop in performance, without any improvement in fuel economy.

Can any one help me glow plug light on fault code n146 what is it how do I fix plz

ronniemk4 said:

Can any one help me glow plug light on fault code n146 what is it how do I fix plz

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You are looking for Glow Plug 101 thread.

Chaps
Just wondering how the injection timing is actually reported? What i'm driving at is can there be an error in the reported timing Vs actual???

SN

Hey I am over at Coogee Beach, Sydney. PM if you are in the area.

Timing is determined by a sensor in the #3 injector detecting the injector opening.

KLXC
Ok but what makes up the other side of the equation. My guess is the crank position sensor???? In other words to make the plot on the chart VAG must first know exactly where TDC is and then plot the info from the NLS on No3 injector against that. Which brings me to my next question, is the crank position sensor subject to error or is it possible for it to provide erroneous information?? If so what's the code it throws if any?

SN

Any updated experience w/ RothEngine??

slugbug181 said:

Has anyone heard of Rothenbacher Engineering or their remaned injection pumps? I'm a poor college kid trying to get my, until recently, flawless bug running again and a new Bosch would break the bank! Any ideas and info is greatly appreciated. Thanks

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Hi -- New Here, although had my '96 Passat Wagon since '05 relatively trouble free... I Searched this thread after already ordering a reman pump from these guys -- and i am wondering if there is any more recent experience out there -- are they still as bad as was reported in '07 - '09 etc.?? My mechanic is about to install this thing and i wonder if i should quit while ahead?? -- or perhaps go ahead then send my core to the outfit in Portland OR for a proper rebuild?? Any updates and /or suggestions appreciated.

tdi windman said:

Hi -- New Here, although had my '96 Passat Wagon since '05 relatively trouble free... I Searched this thread after already ordering a reman pump from these guys -- and i am wondering if there is any more recent experience out there -- are they still as bad as was reported in '07 - '09 etc.?? My mechanic is about to install this thing and i wonder if i should quit while ahead?? -- or perhaps go ahead then send my core to the outfit in Portland OR for a proper rebuild?? Any updates and /or suggestions appreciated.

Click to expand...

ALL the reports from Rothenbacher/Prothe are negative. You might try to get a refund on that part, though they probably will never pay.

Go ahead and send your IP to DFIS in Portland OR -- they have a reputation for quality work.

TornadoRed said:

Go ahead and send your IP to DFIS in Portland OR -- they have a reputation for quality work.

Click to expand...

Only because they are a Bosch Authorized shop!

Tony

I have a 2002 TDI Jetta with auto trans and 196K miles on it.

Here is what I'm getting for an error code:
2 Faults Found:
17762 - Modulating Piston Movement Sensor (G149)
P1354 - 35-10 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
17971 - Quantity Adjuster (N146)
P1563 - 35-00 - Lower Limit Reached
Readiness: N/A

I have been able to adjust the IQ so that it is not throwing code 17971. And I have finally been able to get the car to idle for longer than 10 mins without stalling.

Presently the IQ is at 2.2mg/str at 1.480v (VCDS setting 32777). IQ settings +-2 the car will start and stop within 10 seconds. Any IQ settings +-3 or greater the car won't start.

Start of injection is specified 1.3 ATDC and acutal start is 1.8 BTDC. TDI timing graph shows it is slightly advanced to advanced. All of the cloud shows up or down from 55 to 61 (Y-axis) at 132 (X-axis) 1/2 way between the blue and green lines. NO left or right movement/could.

Can the Modulating Piston be replaced in a similar fashion to replacing the seals with the pump on the car?

I still have to get my VOM out and check the connections for voltage, continuity, and OHMs values.

Also, with 196K miles on the pump, is it about due for failure? OR could its life have been prolonged by the use of PowerService? With current ULSD at 15ppm vs. old LSD at 500ppm, could that have accelerated the wear and eventual failure of the pump? I have not been driving the car much, but since I did the timing belt 20K miles ago, it has been driven by my Wife who would not put PowerService in at every fill up.

Lastly, could the problem with the pump be overcome temporarily by using a PD lift pump in the tank?

~ryan

b1gmoose,
I would clean ALL the grounds under the hood, before condemning the pump. And, the battery posts, too!

Tony

TonyJetta said:

b1gmoose,
I would clean ALL the grounds under the hood, before condemning the pump. And, the battery posts, too!

Tony

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I cleaned the grounds when I did the timing belt in Sep of 2010. BUT it can't hurt to go over them again. Battery terminals and posts are AOK. Batter was new in July of 11. Now I just need to find my electronic copy of bentley/eBahn software. I have no idea where it went.

It could be an electrical problem. I'm hoping it is. BUT I need my tech data (eBahn) to know what the voltage and continuity readings should be at the connectors.

~ryan

B1gmoose
I would start with the grounds and then the plugs in the engine loom. Pull them apart including the one on the ECU and clean the terminals. If you have access to compressed air you can spray some electrical cleaner such as CRC contact cleaner in them and blow it out with air. Follow the loom and make sure it hasn't chaffed through anywhere.

If that don't work, mmmmmmmm. ECU or pump maybe!

I came across this thread on another