Loctite or anti-seize on intake manifold

I did a search and couldn't find exactly what I wanted so I'll throw this question out there...I'm starting my intake/EGR clean today (hopefully going to get a dynamic EGR done so I don't have to do this for a long time, I think I've been babying the car to much because I did my last intake clean around two years ago). I got the intake cleaing kit from Bora Parts, but I wanted to know if people are putting locktite or anti-seize on the bolt when they are reinstalling them? I used to race dirtbike and there was either loctite or never-seize on everything, or do I just make sure all the bolts are clean? Thanks for the help and anyone have a spare Bentley they want to sell?...I should of bought one long ago.

Just clean the threads of the bolts and torque to spec.

i use a dab of anit seize you dont want to try to get a rounded off bolt out of there lol

There where things get hot due to the exhaust manifold, anti-seize is a very good idea. I use it a lot. On exhaust nuts & bolts, the high-temp variety is probably best. And the use of anti-seize will save lots of skinned knuckles and angry vulgar vocalizations as well as ruined fasteners.

Cheers,

PH

3X on anti-seize... and either you or the next girl/guy to wrench on your engine will thank you for it.

Herm TDI said:

Just clean the threads of the bolts and torque to spec.

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Ditto....

Most important is to replace the bolts and nuts with rusted or stripped heads with new ones. If these are in good shape working on the engine is a piece of cake. I added some anti seize to the exhaust nuts, but the intake bolts looked so good i just put them back the way they were.

Agreed, on exhaust manifold bolts, cleaning threads and anti-seize is a good idea. On intake bolts simply clean threads and torque to spec, no loctite or anti seize is needed...most torque specs are dry clean threads unless otherwise stated...

Thanks guys, I'm going to use some of the copper anti-seize just due to how hard some of the bolt were to come out. I felt like I was close to stripping out the ones for the intake. I bought all new bolts for the EGR cooler, EGR and flex pipe since some were bad. That way next time I have all good head to start with.

tdmsurfguy said:

Thanks guys, I'm going to use some of the copper anti-seize just due to how hard some of the bolt were to come out. I felt like I was close to stripping out the ones for the intake. I bought all new bolts for the EGR cooler, EGR and flex pipe since some were bad. That way next time I have all good head to start with.

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Did you finish cleaning it all out? Any shots of how clogged up or unclogged up yours is?

Just saw this thread. (no pun intended) The torque specs assume clean dry threads. Like Herm TDI and paramedick said...just clean the threads for correct torquing.

i also would just personally just clean the threads and use a drop of wd40. with anti-seize, it is too easy to put on too much and the bolts will just loosen up (over and over again) and/or you can overtorque them too easily. early on in my DIY days i made that mistake too many times, now i rarely ever use anti-seize.