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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old February 5th, 2019, 10:46   #766
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Old Hickory, TN. Settling here...

No, car will absolutely NEED the tandem pump to even start. I believe it should be minimum 7bar idle and rises with RPM, quickly going above 10 bar. Need to look up exact specs and test sheet for sure. I have seen a couple fail because the lift pump failed and starved the tandem of fuel.

The lift pump is more about volume than pressure. I wonder if you have a wonky thermo valve in the fuel filter that is dumping the fuel back to the tank? Reliably getting fuel at filter, but not to transfer pump - I would like to know why. There could also be a check valve in one of the hoses that could be sticking or gummed up?

No cracking the injectors on a PD. AND DEFINITELY NOT ON A COMMON RAIL!!!! That can kill you! VW put safe guards in their CR so rail pressure bleeds off when the engine is stopped. The pressure in the older VE engines is low enough that with a little common sense you can crank and bleed the injectors.

BTW - I have gotten a TDI to run on silicon spray for several minutes on an older car while trying to bleed a bastard air bubble. I guess it's just the propellant that is burning and at much slower rate than ether.

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Old February 5th, 2019, 22:43   #767
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Perth, WA

Thanks Jason.

Firstly, I'm hoping I've been stupid here - there is *always* an engine fault since the car wouldn't start, but I neglected it because it refers to the cruise control/brake switch "P0571-static". Is it the case (as I would, now I reflect on it, hope/expect) that for *any* engine fault, regardless of how it may or may not prevent the engine from starting/do damage etc., the ECU disables some/all electrics that would be necessary to start the car (this would have to be between tandem pump and injectors, as the lift pump seems to be ok)? If this is the case, my engine may be mechanically just fine, only needing this brake pedal switch replaced (I dismantled it, though, and it's the most basic thing ever - can't see how it'd go wrong - I more likely suspect the electrics from the switch back to the ECU )

I have no idea if this is relevant/helpful but I did the "suck a pipe through a gatorade bottle" trick on the return from the tandem pump to the fuel filter. There is now fuel in the bottle, but the system loop is obviously broken since I've interrupted the tandem pump return line. I probably should not have tried to start the engine, but I did out of curiosity, and the revs were definitely much higher now, like on the cusp of starting, but still no starting. Drawing fuel manually back to the fuel filter has definitely "improved" its attempt to start.

By placing my hand over the exposed ASV I can feel a definite draught into the engine - no idea if it's sufficient but there *is* air flowing.

When the MityVac arrives (or perhaps with the Gatorade bottle), how will/do I prime my fuel system and purge all air without being able to crack the injectors? Do I need to if I have a lift pump, which makes it a pressurised (not vacuumed) system?
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Old February 6th, 2019, 02:54   #768
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Perth, WA

Ok, so I've ruled out the "any engine fault will prevent a start" hypothesis by fixing the (actually) broken brake light switch, observing the brake lights now behave appropriately to this switch, clearing the fault and ensuring it remains cleared - no Engine faults remain.

After drawing the fuel back from the tandem pump, through the Gatorade bottle, I re-connected the hose to the fuel filter, tried to start the car and it behaved very oddly. At first it sounded close to starting. Then I heard some pretty expensive-sounding cracking sounds (timing belt is near-new - no teeth skipped), then it returned to the usual "trying but failing" fairly regular cranking sound.
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Old February 6th, 2019, 12:05   #769
Join Date: May 2004
Location: central Ohio
Fuel Economy: 50/45/35

Originally Posted by sc1500 View Post
Ok, so I've ruled out the "any engine fault will prevent a start" hypothesis by.................snip.................
Yea that's nutty. No engine code that I've heard off will prevent a start. There are a couple that will indicate a problem which will prevent start, subtle difference.
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Old February 7th, 2019, 10:40   #770
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Old Hickory, TN. Settling here...

Hmm, how many km on this engine? PD all had cam shaft issues.

Scary expensive cracking noises are never welcome. Might want to actually manually verify mechanical timing is actually correct.

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Old March 15th, 2019, 04:10   #771
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: New Fairfield, CT

1st post John - New Fairfield
2003 Golf TDI The car was running.
Noticed the stereo not working, electric trunk: some misc. electronics not working. Checked the fuses drivers side panel and noticed not getting power to some of the fuses. Loosen the 2 screws to the fuse box, and while I was removing it, must of accidentally bumped the main power feed wire to the metal. I didn't see any corrosion. Looked clean. installed it back in. Then I noticed during the process that a 50A flat fuse link on top of the battery blew. I' m assuming that it happened when I took the box out to look at it. Replaced the 50A on top of the battery.
*Car cranks but won't start.*
Fuse did not blow again either. Glow plug and engine light do not come on. Replaced the 109. jumped the fuel stop valve. I heard it open when i put power to it. tried to start - cranked but no fire.
tried to jump the main power on the glow plug relay to 87, still no glow or engine light. No power to some of the fuses on the panel that i had before. Checked all grounds-block, under battery, ECU,under steering column, looked for chafed wires in the wire loom in the starter region going to the glow plug circuit. Tachometer does not move when cranking. took out the comfort control module, opened it up - looked brand new and clean-reinstalled.

I'm at a stand still.

The car has stage 4 ECU from Rocket Chip, Injen air intake
EGR delete, Bigger injectors, 15 Turbo, Turbo back 2 1/2 Exhaust
Just did the timing belt, water pump, stretch bolts.
I replaced alternator and wiring harness, but the real problem was the 4 plug near the battery for the wiring harness had a broken wire.

Any Ideas? Thank you for your time and help in advance.
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Old March 15th, 2019, 05:26   #772
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If your glow plug icon does not flash on once when key is turned ecu is not booting.
No boot = no start usually dead/fried ecu. Send ecu to me to test.
15 Golf SW DSG, 00Jetta 6spd race, 99.5Jetta Rocket ARL-PD150 6spd 2260, 2003.5 5.9L Cummins QCLB 4x4 Blue Monster, 00Passat1.8T, other tdi's: 97J, 98J, 99.5J2x, 00-C5 6spd - EFILive, HPTuner, Diablo Sport!
Never argue with an idiot.They will just bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
The beatings will continue until the morale improves!
Good judgement comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgement !

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