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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old August 8th, 2013, 13:04   #106
tongsli
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I changed my gear oil the other day to G-060-726-A2 (VW) and I forgot what a difference it makes with shifting.

I had changed it once before in the 13 years I've owned the car but can't remember how long I had this current batch in there. It was much darker than what I put back inside.

Very happy with the difference. Shifting improved greatly. Next time, I won't wait so long between changes.
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Old August 8th, 2013, 13:14   #107
tongsli
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thirstyturtle328 View Post
I'm assuming this was directed at me. Clutch engagement is the same, no reverse grinding, just difficult to get into reverse sometimes because the shifter just stops.

Here's what I posted in a new thread:

Well the first day or so of the change everything was okay although I definitely didn't think the shifting was any better. Well now it's been 5 or 6 days and the shifting is getting TERRIBLE. Moving the shifter left and right is genuinely difficult...so much so that if I push it all the way left or right it STAYS IN PLACE (see pictures). Also, pretty much every time I stop the vehicle, when I go to start again, it won't go into first (like it hits a wall), and I have to pull it back down into neutral and try again, usually takes 2 times, sometimes 3 or 4. Same deal when shifting into 3rd sometimes, it just stops and I have to pull it back into neutral and try again.

The only other thing I changed this weekend is my motor oil so I'm 100% sure that all of these symptoms are being caused by the transmission fluid change...but why?!?! Maybe the G070 is WAY thicker than whatever was in there before? I'm so upset about it because I've been honked at multiple times at lights because I'm unable to get it into gear :0(

Picture of shifter "stuck" to the left:


Picture of shifter "stuck" to the right:


Please help me guys! I'm assuming the answer is to change the fluid to something different but I really don't think G070 should be causing this much of an issue!

Link to new thread for any responses so we don't clog up the "How To":
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=377172
Did you resolve this?
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Old August 14th, 2013, 12:24   #108
Frag85
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Been a long time lurker, I don't own a TDI but this site has been great for general MKIV Jetta info and I finally registered so share my experiences. I needed to replace a leaky pivot pin o-ring, so I needed to drain the trains.

After no definitive answer from many VW forums I visited the dealer. The dealer told me G060 for the 02J, which is the updated G052 part number. This confirms the Bentley, TSB and VWparts saying G052 as original and the updated being G060, so I went with that rather than the G070 which appears to be designed for the newer trans. The service manager told me they keep bottles of G060 (and plan to always have it) on hand for these transmissions because G070 is not specified for them (but can be used). I was surprised that the dealer only charged $13 something per liter.

The fluid that came out looked dark amber in color like a nice beer, not the blackness of a stout like Guinness, but not as light in color as a light beer. More like a dark Ale. I could almost see through it in a 2 litre soda bottle, and no metal shavings or junk came out so I was happy about that. The trans has always shifted nicely so I knew it should come out looking good. The fill and drain plug had a slight coating on them slightly darker in color, it reminded me of the varnishes you see in a gas engine formed by the oil. Other than that it looked just fine. I only needed to change it to replace a pivot pin o-ring that has been weeping.

The new G060 fluid shifts just like the old. No complaints. No grinds. No hums. No notchiness. If anything going into 1st and R is slightly smoother, but that is probably me looking for a positive effect. With how thin this oil is at ambient temperature I'm surprised the shifting had a little more resistance in the winter when its below freezing. The stuff is like juice at 75F. Def not what I was expecting for trans/gear oil. It was effortless to fill the trans. No need to try and pump the stuff out of the bottle, it just flowed like water.



TL: DR
To make a long story short, there was no O-Ring on the pivot pin.... The dealer did not replace it, let alone put the old one back in when they must have drained the trans to replaced my clutch a while ago. If the trans oil has to be drained to do the clutch that was done at around 68/70k miles, about 6 or 7 years ago, then that is what happened.

Ever since a month or so after the clutch was replaced I had complained to the dealer about an oil drip the car was leaving. It wasn't much, but every once in awhile there was a fresh drip under the car. The bottom of the trans and part of the motor oil pan was coated in the oil within a week or so of wiping everything down, the dogbone engine mount and the subframe were also coated in oil. At least my subframe and inside parts of the driver side LCA hasn't rusted because of this, haha.

Thinking it was oil running from when the valve cover I kind of ignored it. The motor and trans oil were always at the proper level and It wasn't dripping everywhere so I never worried about it. It didn't smell like motor oil, and didn't quite smell like gear oil (I was thinking 75w90 and 75w140 that goes in axles and truck manual gear boxes).

About a year ago it started to leave a small drip every time I parked. I still couldn't find the leak after wiping things down. Trans/motor were full. Last week I found it when I had the car jacked up to check wheel speed sensors and lube my caliper guide pins. It was the pivot pin on the bottom of the case. After wiping everything down, it took about 30 minutes for the oil to seep to the edges of the tab on the pin that bolts it to the case. I was very surprised and a little annoyed (at the dealer) when I pulled the pin out and there was no o-ring there.... Not the first time I had a problem after having the dealer service the vehicle and then finding a problem... I seriously doubt the o-ring would have rotted out, dissolved, fallen apart because its not exposed to the elements and is completely covered up by the tab on the pivot pin. Any ideas?

Last edited by Frag85; August 14th, 2013 at 12:28.
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Old August 14th, 2013, 12:37   #109
Frag85
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Originally Posted by tongsli View Post
Did you resolve this?
Looking at his thread it appears so.
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Old September 21st, 2013, 07:28   #110
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what is current up to date spec on a CR 2011 manual golf for the trans oil.....seems to be lots of different oils being used from redline to GM synchromesh to G052 etc....
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Old January 21st, 2014, 09:38   #111
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I used frugal's terrific how-to to change the trans oil on my Golf at 100k mi. I'm getting ready to change the oil in her Jetta, and I wanted to check to see if anyone can recall the thread about oil starvation/shortage to the 5th gear area: Specifically, can we add anything to this thread about draining the oil from the 5th gear area (02J), or filling the transmission a little extra to ensure oil is getting to 5th gear? Other good thoughts/comments appreciated, as always.
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Old July 21st, 2014, 09:27   #112
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I changed mine last Saturday. Old one looked clean. I used Red Line MT-90 GL-4 and drove 200 miles in the morning without problem.
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Old July 21st, 2014, 22:15   #113
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I have a manual trans and I'm approaching 200,000 miles in the next month. I'm at 198,850 and am taking a toad trip almost 1200 miles. I will be towing 2000lbs and my car will also be full. I'm wondering should I change the transmission fluid now or do it the day I get to my destination? Car shifts fine now but sometimes makes a loud noise when shifting from neutral to reverse, and usually that's only right when I turn my car on, not halfway through a drive. I live in California where the weather is 70*F year round.

Also do I need to remove the bottom engine cover to do this?
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Old July 21st, 2014, 22:39   #114
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New fluid won't really change how your transmission is behaving. The main thing affected by old fluid is the synchros, but if you aren't noticing shifting problems now then you probably won't notice much difference with new fluid either.

It is a good idea to change it since it gets metal filings in it over time but you aren't going to hurt it by going on a long drive.

Change it when it is convenient to you, keeping in mind that old fluid does cause the synchros to wear more.

The only exception to this is if you believe it might be seeping out. Running low on fluid will do a lot of damage, starting with 5th gear.
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Old July 22nd, 2014, 10:11   #115
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Thanks man
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Old September 21st, 2014, 06:47   #116
wackypete
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My tranny looks different. Can anyone confirm if I've got the drain/fill plugs right?
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Old September 21st, 2014, 07:02   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wackypete View Post
My tranny looks different. Can anyone confirm if I've got the drain/fill plugs right?

The fill plug/hole is obviously correct.

The drain hole looks to be in a slightly different spot for your '13 model. However, if you do not see any other 17mm drain plug on the bottom, you've got it nailed down.

BTW, VW has been using the 17mm drain plug for as long as I can remember...... so, it should be quite obvious!
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Old September 21st, 2014, 07:17   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyBees View Post
VW has been using the 17mm drain plug for as long as I can remember...
Some of the later models use a security 16mm XZN (triple-square) fastener for the transmission... tool is VW p/n 2567 or 3357...


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Old September 21st, 2014, 07:31   #119
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Thanks Andy.
Neither the fill or drain plug are 17mm. They are hex but smaller (close to 3/8").
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