2005 E320 CDI 92 Deg C Thermostat....

Tschuss_Bill

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2003
Location
Fairfield CT
TDI
2000 Jetta Original Owner, 2005 E320 CDI
:)
These cars are out there for those of us who will take the time and search for the right car.
I got lucky and found mine in December for $17.8K. More miles were on it at 109.7K and it now has 115K.
It's an original California MBZ imported from the Chicago area when it was brands new.
A little later production, as in November 2004. VIN: . . . 7 2 1 1 6 9
As you may know, these CDIs were not sold new in CA, MA, ME, NY, and VT.
But that did not keep the 'smart people' who wanted one from going out-of-state and
buying one new and registering them with a friend/relative until they had
7,500 miles on their odometers and then registering them as used here.
Same equipment as yours more or less except I do not think I have the same radio.
My original Monroney sticker says: 9-Speaker Audio System with AM/FM Single Disc CD.
Then as an option, Code 819, 6-Disc CD Changer (Factory Installed) for only $420 extra.
So I guess I do not have your Harmon Kardon radio, do I?
Does you radio have the weather band?
I've added Sirius Satellite Radio and the original speakers sound pretty darn nice. I'm happy.
If yours is 'floaty,' you could go to heavy duty Bilsteins.
I like the ride mine has and I run the tires at 38 front, 40 rears cold.
Also, would like to go to a HID headlights retrofit as the originals lack proper lighting.
Let me know how you do that when you get around to doing it!
And tell me about the gains you experienced with the KD Box?
Also, how you do the electronic EGR delete (built, but not installed)?
The thermostat is not at all difficult to do, and it seems like all of these older CDIs need that.
The stupid dealer that serviced this car for the original owner WILL NOT tell
me what was done and what was not done and what is now needed.
I know when it was serviced (21 times) according to the CarFax
report I have, but not all that was or was not done.
Do you know any way I can get that information? :confused:
Thanks and welcome aboard.
:D
Derrel
Mine has the 6 cd changer too.

Headlights. I've done a couple retrofits to date, not yet on a W211. This one should be easy, no dremeling required. My plan for this car is to buy bits from the Retrofit Source. Hella projectors, 3Five ballasts with OSRAM XENARC 66240 SVS bulbs (or 5Five ballasts with PHILIPS 85122+ bulbs) and a harness.

I drove the car for about a week without the KD box. I bought the box used before I bought the car. So I don't have extensive experience with driving without the KD box. I felt like I 'didn't know the car' when I installed it. That said, I notice much better responsiveness in the lower rpm's, off the line etc. Mileage on the highway cruising seems about the same, 36 to 37.

EGR delete there's a thread on a UK forum that covers it. You build a simple circuit that is used to fool the ECU that the EGR is doing its function, all while the EGR remains closed.

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=88374

My CDI has the original Satellite setup with the big fugly black thing on the trunk. Need to swap that out for the newer sleeky painted one.

-Bill
 

Tschuss_Bill

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2003
Location
Fairfield CT
TDI
2000 Jetta Original Owner, 2005 E320 CDI
On the service record thing. Do you know who the prior owner is? If you, they can request the service history from the dealer for you.

-Bill
 
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josh8loop

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Location
Vero Beach, Fl.
TDI
2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
:)

Now that you know how to do it, come on over and do mine please. Who supplied the new
fuel filter element? Was the old one dirty or perhaps you could not tell?
Don't know why, but I'm scared of doing that job!

Speaking of, are you going to add your Fuelly ad to your posts
so that all of us may keep an eye on how well you are doing? :confused:

Inquiring minds need to know, don't you know? :confused:

:D

Derrel





Derrel,

I finally got a chance to dissect the old fuel filter. I will post the video link in this reply once it Uploads on Youtube in a little while:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7ZZZQKqESc&feature=plcp&context=C42eb888VDvjVQa1PpcFPQVcJgkmgzTkCsfiKT5SU_simNN2RysMg%3D



..
 
Last edited:

josh8loop

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Location
Vero Beach, Fl.
TDI
2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
Finished up the construction of my electronic EGR delete circuit for the E320 CDI last night. I potted the circuit in 5 minute epoxy, and finished it up with heatshrink tubing. This thing will definately be water tight! Bad thing is that I'm not sure it will work since I didn't test it out before I sealed it. I know for sure that I don't have any shorts, and I plan on using Alex Crows electrical tests to verify I have similar ohm readings from lead to lead as he did. I had to use a different transistor that the original called for so hopefully it will all pan out. I used a TIP31 instead of the BC337 listed in the circuit. Good thing is that even if it fails, I have extra components available that I can create another one with. Some time soon I will be installing/testing and and look forward to the potential of higher MPG's and cleaner oil. Time will tell I guess. I will make sure I update this thread once the install is complete.
 

josh8loop

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Location
Vero Beach, Fl.
TDI
2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
Friday evening I took the time to install my electronic EGR delete circuit. I ended up substituting a different(locally available) transistor in the circuit. I used a TIP31 in place of the BC337 listed on the original-good thing is that the one I substituted is able to carry more current than the original(not that it is used in a current carrying function anyhow).

When I first started it up I didn't get a CEL so that's good. I did however notice a 30-40% lengthening of the warmup time when I was on the test drive. This was with the engine cover off, so I'm not sure that effected it or not. I will be watching the warm up times closely. I didn't notice any smoothing of idle since it is really smooth already. I also didn't notice any apparent change in acceleration as reported by others. In fact, I may be experiencing a bit of "Blow Off Effect" from the EGR valve leaking intake side pressure to the exhaust stream. I ended up refilling the tank immediately after installation so now I can begin MPG comparison too. Also, I recently changed the oil so I will be keeping track of whether or not the oil stays cleaner longer or not.

My plan as of right now is to investigate wheter or not the EGR valve is powered up in the closed direction or not. My hope is that it is since this will eliminate the BOV effect from happening. I will also be looking into simple circuitry to make a "Dynamic EGR" system-one that allows EGR flow when warming up the engine, but switches it off at a certain temperature. I addition if I find that the EGR is indeed powered in the closed direction, it may not need to be powered all the time-for instance if the boost pressure is below a certain value, additional force(and associated electrical consumption) would not be needed to retain the EGR valve in the closed position. Once the higher boost pressures are reached, the EGR valve can once again be powered up keeping it closed.
 

Derrel H Green

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 2, 2002
Location
Murrieta, California
TDI
An '05 MBZ E-320 CDI (W-211) replaced the '10 TDI JSW
Thank You

Derrel,

I finally got a chance to dissect the old fuel filter. I will post the video
link in this reply once it Uploads on Youtube in a little while:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7ZZZQKqESc&feature=plcp&context=C42eb888VDvjVQa1PpcFPQVcJgkmgzTkCsfiKT5SU_simNN2RysMg%3D
..
:)

Josh,

Thank you.

Makes me want to change mine so I can see what the insides of that filter contain.

I'm concerned as I have no clue as to when (IF EVER) my fuel filter was changed.
Could it be the original at seven years and 115K miles? :confused:

The original servicing dealer has refused to give me any of the service records
for the car, and they did all of the servicing on this car.

Don't go there for anything. Name of that dealer will be suppied on reguest.

:D

Derrel
 

Tschuss_Bill

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2003
Location
Fairfield CT
TDI
2000 Jetta Original Owner, 2005 E320 CDI
Friday evening I took the time to install my electronic EGR delete circuit. I ended up substituting a different(locally available) transistor in the circuit. I used a TIP31 in place of the BC337 listed on the original-good thing is that the one I substituted is able to carry more current than the original(not that it is used in a current carrying function anyhow).

When I first started it up I didn't get a CEL so that's good. I did however notice a 30-40% lengthening of the warmup time when I was on the test drive. This was with the engine cover off, so I'm not sure that effected it or not. I will be watching the warm up times closely. I didn't notice any smoothing of idle since it is really smooth already. I also didn't notice any apparent change in acceleration as reported by others. In fact, I may be experiencing a bit of "Blow Off Effect" from the EGR valve leaking intake side pressure to the exhaust stream. I ended up refilling the tank immediately after installation so now I can begin MPG comparison too. Also, I recently changed the oil so I will be keeping track of whether or not the oil stays cleaner longer or not.

My plan as of right now is to investigate wheter or not the EGR valve is powered up in the closed direction or not. My hope is that it is since this will eliminate the BOV effect from happening. I will also be looking into simple circuitry to make a "Dynamic EGR" system-one that allows EGR flow when warming up the engine, but switches it off at a certain temperature. I addition if I find that the EGR is indeed powered in the closed direction, it may not need to be powered all the time-for instance if the boost pressure is below a certain value, additional force(and associated electrical consumption) would not be needed to retain the EGR valve in the closed position. Once the higher boost pressures are reached, the EGR valve can once again be powered up keeping it closed.
Josh - What page did your find Alex's circuit test by lead? Still haven't installed mine. I'm interested in your results regarding EGR blow off etc. Also keep us posted on any progress for Dynamic EGR.

-Bill
 

josh8loop

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Location
Vero Beach, Fl.
TDI
2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
Josh - What page did your find Alex's circuit test by lead? Still haven't installed mine. I'm interested in your results regarding EGR blow off etc. Also keep us posted on any progress for Dynamic EGR.

-Bill



Page 5, post number 42 has a little guidance, but it requires you to remove the transistor. I would recommend trying this test before the transistor is installed. This will verify you are getting the proper resistance values(K Ohms etc instead of Meg Ohms for instance). I actually didn't use this test since I had the transistor wired in, and potted in epoxy already. Since I verified color coding on the resistors, and measured them with the meter before I soldered them it I knew I had the right values to start with.

Also, when I hooked the circuit into the vehicles ground(Brown Wire), and 12 V supply(Red Wire) I just found a wire that went to a quick disconnect plug. Once I disconnected the wire plug, I used a small screwdriver to release the wire from the plug holder, and soldered my circuit wires directly onto where the wire was crimped onto. This makes a great connection, and tends to look like it is supposed to be there. I may make a video of a couple hints/tricks.
 

josh8loop

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Location
Vero Beach, Fl.
TDI
2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
:)

Josh,

Thank you.

Makes me want to change mine so I can see what the insides of that filter contain.

I'm concerned as I have no clue as to when (IF EVER) my fuel filter was changed.
Could it be the original at seven years and 115K miles? :confused:

The original servicing dealer has refused to give me any of the service records
for the car, and they did all of the servicing on this car.
Don't go there for anything. Name of that dealer will be suppied on reguest.

:D

Derrel

I wish I had a bit more light for that video, and that the video was a bit clearer. I would say it could be possible that filter is the original. Not sure how to tell from the outside though. It was an easy process actually, and I didn't loose much fuel from doing it. Getting the air out was a matter of cycling the key on a couple times, and she started right up-the in tank lift pump does all the work!
 

Tschuss_Bill

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2003
Location
Fairfield CT
TDI
2000 Jetta Original Owner, 2005 E320 CDI
:)
Josh,
Thank you.
Makes me want to change mine so I can see what the insides of that filter contain.
I'm concerned as I have no clue as to when (IF EVER) my fuel filter was changed.
Could it be the original at seven years and 115K miles? :confused:
The original servicing dealer has refused to give me any of the service records
for the car, and they did all of the servicing on this car.

Don't go there for anything. Name of that dealer will be suppied on reguest.
:D
Derrel
Derrel

Most dealers will not supply you this information unless the prior owner gives them permission. I have found that MB service advisers will review the record and provide maintenance data over the phone, like when was the last oil service, fuel filter and were the tranny fluid and filters ever done? Not the same as having the print out. They dealer should provide warranty history.

-Bill
 

moosejaw

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2005
Location
St. Louis, MO
TDI
*Sold* 2005 Passat GLS TDI Shadow Blue
I filled up a few days ago with 20 gals of higher quality fuel along with 8 oz of 2 stroke oil and a little bit of Stanadyne. I am happy to report that my low rpm (1200 rpm) lugging/noise is gone. Motor sounds more like a gaser now, even when I had the windows down.

The fuel info page mentions a minimum of 47 cetane and I have an email from a company rep stating that cetane averages 49 out the door. Wear scar is stated to be below 460 but without a lab test it is difficult to hear/see/feel the effect. :)
 

josh8loop

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Location
Vero Beach, Fl.
TDI
2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
I found a study where the addition of used (5k miles)Shell Rotella 15w40 reduced the wear scarring by a statistically insignificant amount. Looks like the clear winner was the addition of Soy biodiesel(2%), and it reduced the wear scarring by 415 micron. They added 66.56 Ounces of 100% pure soybean biodiesel per 26 gallons of diesel used for a 2% biodiesel/diesel blend.


Full copy of report can be viewed here:

http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf

Here is a quick list of the best:




RESULTS
In Order Of Performance:
1) 2% REG SoyPower bio-diesel
HFRR 221, 415 micron improvement.
50:1 ratio of baseline fuel to 100% biodiesel
66.56 oz. of 100% biodiesel per 26 gallons of diesel fuel
Price: market value


2) Opti-Lube XPD
Multi-purpose + anti-gel
Cetane Improver, Demulsifier
HFRR 317, 319 micron improvement.
256:1 ratio
13 oz/tank
$4.35/tank


3) FPPF RV, Bus, SUV Diesel/Gas Fuel Treatment
Gas and Diesel
Cetane improver, Emulsifier
HFRR 439, 197 micron improvement
640:1 ratio
5.2 oz/tank
$2.60/tank


4) Opti-Lube Summer Blend
Multi-purpose
Demulsifier
HFRR 447, 189 micron improvement
3000:1 ratio
1.11 oz/tank
$0.68/tank


5) Opti-Lube Winter Blend
Muti-purpose + anti-gel
Cetane improver
HFRR 461, 175 micron improvement
512:1 ratio
6.5 oz/tank
$3.65/tank
Copyright© The Diesel Place & A. D. Spicer - 6 - August, 2007


6) Schaeffer Diesel Treat 2000
Multi-purpose + anti-gel
Cetane improver, Emulsifier, bio-diesel compatible
HFRR 470, 166 micron improvement
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$1.87/tank


7) Super Tech Outboard 2-Cycle TC-W3 Engine Oil
Unconventional
(Not ULSD compliant, may damage 2007 or newer systems)
HFRR 474, 162 micron improvement
200:1 ratio
16.64 oz/tank
$1.09/tank


8) Stanadyne Lubricity Formula
Lubricity Only
Demulsifier, 5% bio-diesel compatible, alcohol free
HFRR 479, 157 micron improvement
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$1.00/tank


9) Amsoil Diesel Concentrate
Multi-purpose
Demulsifier, bio-diesel compatible, alcohol free
HFRR 488, 148 micron improvement
640:1 ratio
5.2 oz/tank
$2.16/tank


10) Power Service Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost
Multi-purpose
Cetane improver, bio-diesel compatible, alcohol free
HFRR 575, 61 micron improvement
400:1 ratio
8.32 oz/tank
$1.58/tank
Copyright© The Diesel Place & A. D. Spicer - 7 - August, 2007


11) Howe’s Meaner Power Kleaner
Multi-purpose
Alcohol free
HFRR 586, 50 micron improvement
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$1.36/tank


12) Stanadyne Performance Formula
Multi-purpose + anti-gel
Cetane improver, Demulsifier, 5% bio-diesel compatible, alcohol free
HFRR 603, 33 micron improvement
480:1 ratio
6.9 oz/tank
$4.35/tank


13) Used Motor Oil, Shell Rotella T 15W-40, 5,000 miles used.
Unconventional
(Not ULSD compliant, may damage systems)
HFRR 634, 2 micron improvement (statistically insignificant change)
200:1 ratio
16.64 oz/tank
price: $0.00


14) Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant
Gas or Diesel
HFRR 641, 5 microns worse than baseline (statistically insignificant
change)
427:1 ratio
7.8 oz/tank
$2.65/tank


15) B1000 Diesel Fuel Conditioner by Milligan Biotech
Multi-purpose, canola oil based additive
HFRR 644, 8 microns worse than baseline (statistically insignificant
change)
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$2.67/tank
Copyright© The Diesel Place & A. D. Spicer - 8 - August, 2007


16) FPPF Lubricity Plus Fuel Power
Multi-purpose + anti-gel
Emulsifier, alcohol free
HFRR 675, 39 microns worse than baseline fuel
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$1.12/tank


17) Marvel Mystery Oil
Gas, Oil and Diesel fuel additive (NOT ULSD compliant, may damage
2007 and newer systems)
HFRR 678, 42 microns worse than baseline fuel.
320:1 ratio
10.4 oz/tank
$3.22/tank


18) ValvTect Diesel Guard Heavy Duty/Marine Diesel Fuel Additive
Multi-purpose
Cetane improver, Emulsifier, alcohol free
HFRR 696, 60 microns worse than baseline fuel
1000:1 ratio
3.32 oz/tank
$2.38/tank


19) Primrose Power Blend 2003
Multi-purpose
Cetane boost, bio-diesel compatible, Emulsifier
HFRR 711, 75 microns worse than baseline
1066:1 ratio
3.12 oz/tank
$1.39/tank


CONCLUSIONS:
Products 1 through 4 were able to improve the unadditized fuel to an
HFRR score of 460 or better. This meets the strictest requirements
requested by the Engine Manufacturers Association.
Products 1 through 9 were able to improve the unadditized fuel to an
HFRR score of 520 or better, meeting the U.S. diesel fuel requirements for
maximum wear scar in a commercially available diesel fuel.
 
Last edited:

Tschuss_Bill

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2003
Location
Fairfield CT
TDI
2000 Jetta Original Owner, 2005 E320 CDI
back to thermostats

My waterpump and thermostat are now replaced. It warms up to ~90C per dash gauge reading rather than ~70C. I'll be making another 250 mile drive this weekend, will check for any mpg improvement.
 

josh8loop

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Location
Vero Beach, Fl.
TDI
2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
How hard was it to do the waterpump? I've got 104K now, but want to wrap my head around what I may need to do in the future. Any tips or tricks on the process?
 

Derrel H Green

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 2, 2002
Location
Murrieta, California
TDI
An '05 MBZ E-320 CDI (W-211) replaced the '10 TDI JSW
Spicer Report on Additives

I found a study where the addition of used (5k miles) Shell Rotella 15w40
reduced the wear scarring by a statistically insignificant amount.
Looks like the clear winner was the addition of Soy biodiesel (2%), and
it reduced the wear scarring by 415 micron.
They added 66.56 Ounces of 100% pure soybean biodiesel per
26 gallons of diesel used for a 2% biodiesel/diesel blend.
:)

Josh,

That study would be the 'Spicer Report' wouldn't it? :confused:
See: http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf
We have, as members of this forum, know of this report for some time, and I have in fact been using
Opti-Lube XPD and one liter of biodiesel in my 2010 TDI to help the HPFP live, but the strain
of worrying about what I would do if the HPFP failed drove me to sell the VW while I
could get real value for it and buy a CDI which evidently does not need any additives.

I have not driven the CDI far enough yet to determine if I can
achieve better fuel economy by using Opti-Lube XPD or not.
We did however over the last two days, return from a 1000 mile R/T and got tank miles for the
last leg of the trip of 38.531 mpg. That would have been somewhat higher if we had not
gotten into afternoon, early evening rush hour Good Friday stop-slow-and- go traffic.
The onboard computer had been as high as 44.5 mpg until we hit that terrible traffic.
Took us almost eight hours to travel what we should have been able to cover in less than 5.5 hours.
Imagine how high the tank fuel mileage average could have
been if we'd not been in so much stop and go slow traffic. :confused:

See my fuelly.

:D

Derrel
 

Tschuss_Bill

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2003
Location
Fairfield CT
TDI
2000 Jetta Original Owner, 2005 E320 CDI
How hard was it to do the waterpump? I've got 104K now, but want to wrap my head around what I may need to do in the future. Any tips or tricks on the process?
I had intended to due the work myself on a preventative basis, but the pump failed and I was not able to get it done in time for a trip. I took the car and the parts I had bought to a trusted independent.

Here's a DIY that I had found......

http://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-serpentine-belt-idler-pulleys-tensioner.html

Labor was $450 which I didn't think was too bad.

Condition of the old parts:

Waterpump was the culprit. Bad seal, no obvious issues with the bearing. The replacement Graf brand pump looked identical.

Tensioner bearing rolled fine. This part probably had some life left in it.

Idler. The bearing was rough.

Thermostat. As others have reported the engine running temp seems to be more consistently at ~90C once warmed up.
 
Last edited:

josh8loop

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Location
Vero Beach, Fl.
TDI
2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
I had intended to due the work myself on a preventative basis, but the pump failed and I was not able to get it done in time for a trip. I took the car and the parts I had bought to a trusted independent.
Here's a DIY that I had found......
http://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-serpentine-belt-idler-pulleys-tensioner.html
Labor was $450 which I didn't think was too bad.
Condition of the old parts:
Waterpump was the culprit. Bad seal, no obvious issues with the bearing. The replacement Graf brand pump looked identical.
Tensioner bearing rolled fine. This part probably had some life left in it.
Idler. The bearing was rough.
Thermostat. As others have reported the engine running temp seems to be more consistently at ~90C once warmed up.
Thanks for the fantastic info on this-much appreciated! By the way, I noticed according to my ScanGage that my coolant temps stayed around 197-198 Deg F on a recent highway trip. Right on with what the 92 Deg C unit was rated for!
 

josh8loop

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Location
Vero Beach, Fl.
TDI
2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
:)

Josh,

That study would be the 'Spicer Report' wouldn't it? :confused:
See: http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf
We have, as members of this forum, know of this report for some time, and I have in fact been using
Opti-Lube XPD and one liter of biodiesel in my 2010 TDI to help the HPFP live, but the strain
of worrying about what I would do if the HPFP failed drove me to sell the VW while I
could get real value for it and buy a CDI which evidently does not need any additives.

I have not driven the CDI far enough yet to determine if I can
achieve better fuel economy by using Opti-Lube XPD or not.
We did however over the last two days, return from a 1000 mile R/T and got tank miles for the
last leg of the trip of 38.531 mpg. That would have been somewhat higher if we had not
gotten into afternoon, early evening rush hour Good Friday stop-slow-and- go traffic.
The onboard computer had been as high as 44.5 mpg until we hit that terrible traffic.
Took us almost eight hours to travel what we should have been able to cover in less than 5.5 hours.
Imagine how high the tank fuel mileage average could have
been if we'd not been in so much stop and go slow traffic. :confused:

See my fuelly.

:D

Derrel


Yes, indeed that's the one! I will update my original post with your nice link-Thanks!
 

josh8loop

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Location
Vero Beach, Fl.
TDI
2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
Friday evening I took the time to install my electronic EGR delete circuit. I ended up substituting a different(locally available) transistor in the circuit. I used a TIP31 in place of the BC337 listed on the original-good thing is that the one I substituted is able to carry more current than the original(not that it is used in a current carrying function anyhow).

When I first started it up I didn't get a CEL so that's good. I did however notice a 30-40% lengthening of the warmup time when I was on the test drive. This was with the engine cover off, so I'm not sure that effected it or not. I will be watching the warm up times closely. I didn't notice any smoothing of idle since it is really smooth already. I also didn't notice any apparent change in acceleration as reported by others. In fact, I may be experiencing a bit of "Blow Off Effect" from the EGR valve leaking intake side pressure to the exhaust stream. I ended up refilling the tank immediately after installation so now I can begin MPG comparison too. Also, I recently changed the oil so I will be keeping track of whether or not the oil stays cleaner longer or not.

My plan as of right now is to investigate wheter or not the EGR valve is powered up in the closed direction or not. My hope is that it is since this will eliminate the BOV effect from happening. I will also be looking into simple circuitry to make a "Dynamic EGR" system-one that allows EGR flow when warming up the engine, but switches it off at a certain temperature. I addition if I find that the EGR is indeed powered in the closed direction, it may not need to be powered all the time-for instance if the boost pressure is below a certain value, additional force(and associated electrical consumption) would not be needed to retain the EGR valve in the closed position. Once the higher boost pressures are reached, the EGR valve can once again be powered up keeping it closed.



I am beginning to quantify the warm up times with and without the EGR enabled. I had mentioned I believed I was seeing a 30-40% increase in warm up times with the EGR delete circuit installed. I have had the EGR delete circuit installed for a week or more with no apparent issues except for potential legthening in warm up times. Today I finally got around to timing just how long it takes to warm up the engine to 80 Deg C after the engine has sat all night. This morning I measured that it took 7 minutes to warm up the engine to 80 Deg C. I plan on redoing the experiment a couple more times to verify the results.


I also confirmed that when Alex Crows EGR delete circuit is installed and implemented, the EGR is left powered up with 12 volt/ground and the PWM wire is cut as per the directions the EGR does indeed remain forcefully closed aided by the EGR's integral drive motor. With this being the case, the blow off effect of losing boost presure through the EGR to the exhaust side diring high boost conditions is eliminated. I have also considered adding a simple circuit consisting of a 1-1.2 bar oil pressure switch to the intake to turn on and off power to the EGR valve during high boost conditions which will keep the EGR closed during high boost, but will allow it to remain unpowered during normal conditions(except when warming up of course) so that it does not consume additional electrical energy.
 

Tschuss_Bill

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2003
Location
Fairfield CT
TDI
2000 Jetta Original Owner, 2005 E320 CDI
josh8loop;3771283...... I have also considered adding a simple circuit consisting of a 1-1.2 bar oil pressure switch to the intake to turn on and off power to the EGR valve during high boost conditions which will keep the EGR closed during high boost said:
For me I'm not concerned about consumption of additional electricity.

-Bill
 

josh8loop

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Location
Vero Beach, Fl.
TDI
2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
I'm not sure exactly how much energy the EGR valve requires, but I did see a small spark when connecting and disconnecting it. I could imagine an amp or two at 12 volts gives anywhere between 12-24 watts of electricity. Not much in the grand scheme, but it goes along the thought of every little bit adds up eventually-it's hard to find things on these modern engines that you can actually get rid of to save energy without causing issues, and for me, this is one of them. Plus the added uneeded heat to the EGR valve motor itself. Also, did you know after shutting the engine off, the EGR makes a whinning noise? That can't be good :)
 
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