1Z not starting

IronBenderII

Active member
Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Location
Sacramento
TDI
'82 Westfalia
Hi all. I have a fresh conversion that I've been working on. I'm putting a known good/running 1Z into my Westfalia (original diesel). I removed the fuel system all together to replace old lines/clean the tank/paint. So plenty of air in the lines. I filled the filter with diesel as well as the line between the filter and the injector.

So here's what happens. The air in the lines seemed to have worked it's way through for the most part. When I crank the engine over it will crank and crank and crank and for a second it will fire up and then die.

I've cracked the injector lines while cranking it and the smallest little bit of diesel will come out. Barely any really. I'm getting some white smoke from the exhaust (but not much).

It seems like I need to prime my injection pump or something. I've been searching unsuccessfully for an answer. Anybody have any ideas?
 

Windex

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Location
Cambridge
TDI
05 B5V 01E FRF
You already have your answer - prime the injection pump.

Get a vacuum pump and connect it to the return line.

Pump / pull a vacuum on the pump until you get a steady stream of fuel. This will indicate that the pump is full.

If you only get air, then you have a leak somewhere between the tank and the pump, or there is not enough fuel in the tank.
 

IronBenderII

Active member
Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Location
Sacramento
TDI
'82 Westfalia
OK. I put my vacuum pump on the return line and pumped until I got a nice flow of diesel. Swapped the lines back and... nada. Same thing. Cranks and cranks, white smoke, acts like it wants to catch but won't. I'm alone right now so can't loosen the injector lines up and bleed them. Seems like I shouldn't have to (should work it's way through assuming there is diesel in the pump). I do have an air bubble in the fuel line that I can see and doesn't seem to want to move. Not sure if that's a clue or not...
 

Windex

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Location
Cambridge
TDI
05 B5V 01E FRF
If you pulled solid fuel through the return line, there should be enough fuel in the pump to start the vehicle.

If you are getting white smoke, then you are getting fuel into the cylinder.

Did you change the timing belt on the engine before install? Is there a possibility that the pump timing needs to be adjusted?

Bleeding the injector lines does not need 2 people- loosen 2 or more of the 17mm nuts at the injectors, with clean rags underneath - crank the engine over for 5 seconds, and check to see that the rags have a good amount of fuel on them.

Alternatively, given you have it installed in a westy, aim a smartphone at the injectors and take a movie of the cranking to see what fuel flow you have with the injector nuts cracked.
 

IronBenderII

Active member
Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Location
Sacramento
TDI
'82 Westfalia
I did change the timing belt on it but feel pretty confident that I got it all lined up (lined back of cam up and put piece of metal across to lock it, lined the hole up on the injector pump and even pulled the #1 glow plug out to find the top of the stroke on the piston).

Good idea on using a phone to take a video! I'll give it a try.

Thanks again.
 

Windex

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Location
Cambridge
TDI
05 B5V 01E FRF
Having owned a 1Z, if I were in your shoes, I would verify mechanical timing on the engine.

I get that access will be tight, but set the crank at TDC by the flywheel, pull the cam cover to verify the cam slot is lined up with the head (bonus if you can insert the lock plate), but most importantly, verify that the timing hole on the pump sprocket lines up with the alignment hole.

The 1Z is very easy to be off a tooth on the pump, given the pump sprocket is always working against spring pressure on the internal camplate, and that it's fixed to the shaft and not adjustable like an ALH.

Alternatively, if you can find an assistant, loosen the pump mounting bolts and rotate the pump forward or backward in small increments to adjust the timing while cranking to see if it starts.
 

IronBenderII

Active member
Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Location
Sacramento
TDI
'82 Westfalia
Thanks Windex for hanging in there with me... Here's what I've done...

1) I validated with the vacuum pump on the return line (the side that goes to the injector return) that I'm pulling pretty much straight diesel out of the pump. Oddly, the air bubbles I see in the line don't seem to move (but I'm pulling diesel through so I don't think that's a problem.

2) I loosened the pump and rotated it a bit (doesn't move much) while cranking. Didn't do anything.

3) I cursed at it and told it to F-off. Again, no change.

So now I guess I'm thinking timing as well. I really thought I nailed it (perfect) when it was on the stand. I don't have the mark on the flywheel to tell if I'm at TDC, so need to figure out how to find TDC. I feel like if I were out I'd have to be 180 degrees out but since this is an interference engine I think I'd know by now. Going to have to think about this for a while. Maybe I'll try some more cursing.
 

IronBenderII

Active member
Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Location
Sacramento
TDI
'82 Westfalia
OK. I started taking things back apart. The cam and the injection pump line up (cam accepts a piece of metal that rides along it and the valve cover surface, injection pump lines up - smallest hole to the hole in the block).
The only question is, is my crank @ TDC. How will I be able to tell if the crank is @ TDC w/o the mark on the flywheel?
 
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1.9ZOOK

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2015
Location
Downstream of a Volcano
TDI
ALH Samurai
Is there an immobilizer on that ecu ?
Both of the #1 rocker arms will be loose.
and if possible ,get a dial indicator in the glow plug hole and rock the
engine back and forth by hand.
 
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IronBenderII

Active member
Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Location
Sacramento
TDI
'82 Westfalia
Okay, I got it as good as I could get it going back and forth with a piece of filler rod down the #1 glow plug with a dial indicator and an electronic angle measurement tool. Looks like although my pump and cam were lined up I'm a good 5-10% off from the crank. I think I have it pretty good but my angle gauge isn't perfect.

So here's the plan. I feel a little silly even typing this up but I think it will work. Flame suit on...

1) I'm going to jack the rear of my van up as high as possible/safe
2) While I have my crank super close to TDC I'm going to make a bracket that holds a laser that points straight down (will use a plumb bob to get as close to possible).
3) I'll take my engine to 10* BTDC and ATDC and make marks.
4) Then I'll measure the distance between the two, find the middle and point the laser there. That should be TDC (will be interesting to see how close I was with tonight's setting)

Wish me luck!!
 
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