Can I use vegetable oil for golf 3 VW?

beginner

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I bought a golf 3. İt is a 75 hp aaz engine. Fuel prices are expensive in Turkey. Can I use waste vegetable oil for my car? What should the proportions be? I will use it with a single tank. Because the twin tank system is expensive at 1000 euros and euros. I will make a twin tank system if money is collected. How many degrees centigrade is the gel in vegetable oil during the winter season?
For single tank system; Will I be successful if I wrap the silicone heater cushion on the diesel filter?
Is there anyone who uses sources such as engine oil or atf oil for vegetable oil other than vegetable oil?

Do you have us friends using this engine?
 

Nevada_TDI

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If you are going to use WVO, it needs to highly filtered and you need to remove the fatty acids so it will not clog up your injectors and your piston rings.
 

beginner

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If you are going to use WVO, it needs to highly filtered and you need to remove the fatty acids so it will not clog up your injectors and your piston rings.
Thank you very much. I will pay attention to filtration. I have to make a mix in there. The temperature today was 5 centigrade degrees. 50% vegetable oil for winter season, 50% diesel enough? Do you need to put gasoline in vegetable oil in cold weather?
 

BeetleGo

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Beginner, you need to read up on doing this. I don’t think you’ll want to after you learn what’s involved. Put biodiesel in your car, not waste oil!
 

philngrayce

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Welcome to the club. I’m not familiar with Turkish VWs. What year is your car? Assuming it is a somewhat older model, you may be okay with WVO. The newer US models (after 2006)seem to be very difficult to convert.

If you choose to use vegetable oil, the only really safe way to do it is with a two tank system or extensive modification of your engine with parts made by Elsbett. You can cobble together a two tank system pretty inexpensively, if you are handy. As stated above, filtering remains very important.

All that said, if your car is an older, inexpensive vehicle and you don’t care too much about what might happen to it, you probably can put WVO right in the tank. I have known people who did this for tens of thousands of miles. I think 100,000 miles is unlikely, and you are risking expensive repairs. In any case, you will want to mix diesel with the WVO, maybe 25% diesel in the warmest months, but 100% diesel if you have cold winters.

Different oils gel at different temperatures. All will be fine at 20 C; all will gel at 0 C. In between, you just have to experiment. An electric filter heater will help, but it won’t get the oil really hot the way you want it to be for good combustion.

Please feel free to ask questions, and I enjoy talking about this. But be aware of the risks you are taking with the car, and be sure you are willing to accept them.
 

BeetleGo

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No! Using 100% vegetable oil, even in an older diesel is something only people should do with a car they can afford to lose. You never asked for that question!
 

philngrayce

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I disagree. In an older vehicle (2006 or earlier, US spec), I believe a properly done 2 tank WVO system is relatively risk free. Not totally without risk, but pretty safe. I might argue the risk using biodiesel is greater.

If one is looking for no risk, they shouldn’t use anything other than petrodiesel. Or drive it, for that matter.
 

TDIMeister

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He has an AAZ guys. Turkey has fuel prices that will make even the EU blush. Keep a spare injection pump, fuel filter and set of injectors, keep your oil very well filtered, dry and fresh, use less %WVO in cold weather and Eywallah.
 
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philngrayce

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Thanks TDIMeister. That’s interesting. The greater the savings in fuel, the more acceptable the risk becomes.
 

TDIMeister

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The OP must recognize himself all the real risks, which have been amply stated. I'm not discounting that at all. There's a very real risk of destroying the pump and or injectors over time. After all is presented to him, he can weigh the risks and decide himself.
 

philngrayce

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I agree. I said that one should be aware of the risks, but should have emphasized the point. Also make sure you have a good source of oil, and the space to filter and store it. There isn’t much point in setting up a system on the car if you aren’t going to get enough oil.
 

beginner

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He has an AAZ guys. Turkey has fuel prices that will make even the EU blush. Keep a spare injection pump, fuel filter and set of injectors, keep your oil very well filtered, dry and fresh, use less %WVO in cold weather and Eywallah.
BeetleGo, philngrayce, TDIMeister and WooK, Thank you for yours reply.
Winter in Turkey. I will initially start with 10% wvo 90% diesel. I can use up to 30% wvo for winter season. When it comes to summer, I will use 80% wvo, 20% diesel. I will save money. Then I will buy a twin tank conversion kit. The cost of labor and repair in my country is cheap. Therefore, the mechanic can repair it. If there is a problem, I will write here. Thanks for suggestions, everyone.

I will use it as a single tank for now. I will also connect a heating pad to the diesel filter. I hope the first runs will be easier.
 

turbovan+tdi

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To the OP, thought about using WMO brews? Much easier to use and less risk than WVO.

He has an AAZ guys. Turkey has fuel prices that will make even the EU blush. Keep a spare injection pump, fuel filter and set of injectors, keep your oil very well filtered, dry and fresh, use less %WVO in cold weather and Eywallah.
Its not that bad, its a $1.50 a litre. Depending on where we live in the Lower Mainland, it vary's from $1.15 to $1.40. Compared to US prices, I guess it is, :(
 

philngrayce

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BeetleGo, philngrayce, TDIMeister and WooK, Thank you for yours reply.
Winter in Turkey. I will initially start with 10% wvo 90% diesel. I can use up to 30% wvo for winter season. When it comes to summer, I will use 80% wvo, 20% diesel. I will save money. Then I will buy a twin tank conversion kit. The cost of labor and repair in my country is cheap. Therefore, the mechanic can repair it. If there is a problem, I will write here. Thanks for suggestions, everyone.
I will use it as a single tank for now. I will also connect a heating pad to the diesel filter. I hope the first runs will be easier.
You’re very welcome, and good luck with it. Please do let us know how it goes, good or bad. And if you are ever in the US, I’ll be happy to show you how we do it.
 

beginner

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If I were in the US, I would like to learn. But I can do it myself. I will ask your and I will learn. I'll write what I do here. I thank everyone for much.
 

badgator1

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My WVO experience

Driving over 200,000 miles on WVO in central Florida.
1985 Mercedes 300sd - single tank.
The used WVO used filtered through a layer of old bed sheets into a 55 gallon drum, settled then filtered through 3 progressively finer filters down to 2 microns.
Even in summer I would use at least 5% gasoline as a solvent.
Winter 10%, on the coldest days it would not start right up, I wouldn't even bother to try to start on the rare 0c degree day.
Used a large truck 2-5 micron fuel filter/ water separator on the car + stock filters.
Carry spare filters especially when you begin, they will clog up full of crap from the tank.
IBM used to pay me about $0.50 a mile, some weeks I would make $250.
Car was sold for what I paid - $1500 a few year later.
1983 Mercedes 300d bought not running in 2007 with 2 tank system @ 207,000 miles, but I only used as single tank, replaced injection pump still starts right up today @ 349,000 miles.
Installed 15 gallon boat tank in trunk, longest trip on WVO only was over 1200+ miles one way, with 4 cubes on back seat floor. Refilled with filtered WVO in Minneapolis from Craigslist drove back.
You need to find someone with a similar climate to you for tips, winter is not the time to start using vegetable oil! You will have filters clogging up and hard starting.
I don't have access to WVO since I moved, and my most recent 1700 mile trip 2 weeks ago in my 2006 Jetta TDi was 44.3 mpg at 80mpg, so I don't bother anymore.
 
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beginner

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Driving over 200,000 miles on WVO in central Florida.
1985 Mercedes 300sd - single tank.
The used WVO used filtered through a layer of old bed sheets into a 55 gallon drum, settled then filtered through 3 progressively finer filters down to 2 microns.
Even in summer I would use at least 5% gasoline as a solvent.
Winter 10%, on the coldest days it would not start right up, I wouldn't even bother to try to start on the rare 0c degree day.
Used a large truck 2-5 micron fuel filter/ water separator on the car + stock filters.
Carry spare filters especially when you begin, they will clog up full of crap from the tank.
IBM used to pay me about $0.50 a mile, some weeks I would make $250.
Car was sold for what I paid - $1500 a few year later.
1983 Mercedes 300d bought not running in 2007 with 2 tank system @ 207,000 miles, but I only used as single tank, replaced injection pump still starts right up today @ 349,000 miles.
Installed 15 gallon boat tank in trunk, longest trip on WVO only was over 1200+ miles one way, with 4 cubes on back seat floor. Refilled with filtered WVO in Minneapolis from Craigslist drove back.
You need to find someone with a similar climate to you for tips, winter is not the time to start using vegetable oil! You will have filters clogging up and hard starting.
I don't have access to WVO since I moved, and my most recent 1700 mile trip 2 weeks ago in my 2006 Jetta TDi was 44.3 mpg at 80mpg, so I don't bother anymore.
200,000 miles on the WVO? :eek: The indirect injection and bosch pump did not bother you, did you? Do you use 90% WWO 10% gasoline during winter season? I'll start to use it in winter. Therefore I will buy two heating pillows. (12 volts 200 watt):güzel: I'il wrap one in the diesel filter. I'll put one in the fuel tank. I'll carry a spare fuel filter. That's a good idea. Also, should I use a water separator filter? Or is it enough to heat the vegetable oil before putting it in storage? Thank you very much for your advice. I'll apply them all. :)
 
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philngrayce

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I think that’s an indirect injection engine he’s talking about, in the old Mercedes. Those cars are incredibly tolerant of fuel, and seem to burn almost anything. I assume they must be fairly common in Turkey?

Filtering is very important, and when you figure it out you can go a long time on a filter. I knew a guy who never, ever changed his on board filter because he got the oil so clean. I cold usually go 40 - 50,000 miles on a filter. But if you are not filtering well, you might get 5,000 miles or even much less.

Heating the oil, then letting it settle, should take care of your water. You will want to have a drain at the bottom of your container, and draw the oil for the car from at least a few inches above the bottom. Once in a while drain the bottom to get the water and sediment out. I found that the longer the oil settles, the cleaner it gets. A few weeks is good; a few months is much better.

You are wise to carry a spare filter, maybe even a few. Also make sure you know how to change it before you have to do it on the road at night in the rain while your wife is telling you what a stupid idea this WVO thing is.

WVO can aslo allow algae to grow in it (diesel can too). I always added a few drops of a product called “Valvtect Bioguard”. I don’t know if it is available in Turkey, but someone must sell a similar product. Farm or marine suppply stores sell it here. If you do get algae growing, it can clog your filter in just few miles.
 

beginner

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I think that’s an indirect injection engine he’s talking about, in the old Mercedes. Those cars are incredibly tolerant of fuel, and seem to burn almost anything. I assume they must be fairly common in Turkey?
Filtering is very important, and when you figure it out you can go a long time on a filter. I knew a guy who never, ever changed his on board filter because he got the oil so clean. I cold usually go 40 - 50,000 miles on a filter. But if you are not filtering well, you might get 5,000 miles or even much less.
Heating the oil, then letting it settle, should take care of your water. You will want to have a drain at the bottom of your container, and draw the oil for the car from at least a few inches above the bottom. Once in a while drain the bottom to get the water and sediment out. I found that the longer the oil settles, the cleaner it gets. A few weeks is good; a few months is much better.
You are wise to carry a spare filter, maybe even a few. Also make sure you know how to change it before you have to do it on the road at night in the rain while your wife is telling you what a stupid idea this WVO thing is.
WVO can aslo allow algae to grow in it (diesel can too). I always added a few drops of a product called “Valvtect Bioguard”. I don’t know if it is available in Turkey, but someone must sell a similar product. Farm or marine suppply stores sell it here. If you do get algae growing, it can clog your filter in just few miles.
Mercedes is very well in this regard. I know that. It is common in Turkey. But; old models, brand fans are riding. I use jeans and a women's sock for filtration. I'll save the money and buy dual tank system.

I have to change the fuel filter very often at first. Is 5000 km good? (3000 miles) I have to take a lot of the fuel filter.


Is it enough to heat waste vegetable oil dewatering? Because I picked up waste vegetable oil and it's all like soap. Because it is water inside, the waste vegetable oil quickly freezes. If I evaporate the water, the problem is solved?

Changing the filter is not difficult. In college, I learned gasoline and diesel engines. (I am an engine department teacher in Turkey, unfortunately they do not need me.)

I did not know that it would be algae in vegetable oil. I would definitely use medication for moss. Thank you very much for the suggestion.
 

philngrayce

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Different oils will turn solid at higher temperatures. At room temperature, most cooking oils, like canola or olive oil, will be liquid. But oils like butter or margarine, or shortening, will be solid. Is it possible you have one of those oils? If so, it will be very hard to burn in the car without a heated tank, filter and fuel lines.

If you have a lot of water in the oil, you could evaporate it by boiling it, but it will take a long time and use a lot of energy. You could just heat it enough to make it liquid, then let the water settle to the bottom. But if there is a lot of water, this will also take a long time. The car will not like any water in the fuel, so do make sure you get rid of it.

One way to test for water is to add a little oil to a frying pan and heat it up. If it just gets hot and then smokes, there isn’t much water. If it starts sizzling and popping, you probably have too much water.

Is it possible the restaurant is washing the fryer and dumping everyting together, the oil and the wash water? Could you convince them to drain the oil first, then wash the fryer into a different container?
 

beginner

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Different oils will turn solid at higher temperatures. At room temperature, most cooking oils, like canola or olive oil, will be liquid. But oils like butter or margarine, or shortening, will be solid. Is it possible you have one of those oils? If so, it will be very hard to burn in the car without a heated tank, filter and fuel lines.
If you have a lot of water in the oil, you could evaporate it by boiling it, but it will take a long time and use a lot of energy. You could just heat it enough to make it liquid, then let the water settle to the bottom. But if there is a lot of water, this will also take a long time. The car will not like any water in the fuel, so do make sure you get rid of it.
One way to test for water is to add a little oil to a frying pan and heat it up. If it just gets hot and then smokes, there isn’t much water. If it starts sizzling and popping, you probably have too much water.
Is it possible the restaurant is washing the fryer and dumping everyting together, the oil and the wash water? Could you convince them to drain the oil first, then wash the fryer into a different container?
I bought a frying pan. In the hot room, the oil is melting.
When the air gets cold, the oil freezes. I will do the test as soon as possible. I will share the result. I'll talk to the cafe owner. I wonder if they can accumulate in anhydrous form.
 

WooK

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Mix your oil with baking soda to help with settling out the water. I put 1 lb (~0.5 kg) of baking soda to every 5 gal (~20 liters) of oil. I mix with a paint mixer and let it settle for about a week then pour off the oil leaving the baking soda at the bottom. I just throw away the baking soda afterwards.
 

rrgrassi

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I tried the WVO in my 82 MB 300D. I did the same, using Regular gasoline at 10%. Here is a way to test your oils. Refrigerator, and also the freezer. Even good old peanut oil will solidify in the freezer, and also gel in the fridge. the 90% oil and 10% RUG, that did not happen
 

beginner

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Mix your oil with baking soda to help with settling out the water. I put 1 lb (~0.5 kg) of baking soda to every 5 gal (~20 liters) of oil. I mix with a paint mixer and let it settle for about a week then pour off the oil leaving the baking soda at the bottom. I just throw away the baking soda afterwards.
I will try the recipe. I never heard that. But, I threw the frozen fat into the frying pan. I did not hear a sizzling sound. Waste vegetable oil did not leap. I understand that there is no water.
I tried the WVO in my 82 MB 300D. I did the same, using Regular gasoline at 10%. Here is a way to test your oils. Refrigerator, and also the freezer. Even good old peanut oil will solidify in the freezer, and also gel in the fridge. the 90% oil and 10% RUG, that did not happen
The vegetable oils I bought from the restaurant are frozen immediately. The air temperature starts to gel when it is +5 degrees Celsius. I do not have to be scared, do I? If I put it in the fridge, it will freeze immediately. But I will mix it with unleaded gasoline. (90% WVO, 10% gasoline)
rrgrassi, I will try the recipe.
;)
 

een2102

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Try
www.anc.me
This is what Elsbett evolved into. Alexander Noack is extremely approachable and will help you on how to proceed. Not so cheap though....
 
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