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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old October 22nd, 2019, 23:05   #16
DivineChaos
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Originally Posted by turbobrick240 View Post
Get a battery blanket heater. That's all you really need. The common rails start fantastic in the cold. It's a frozen battery or gelled fuel that will strand you at -50.
thank you for your advice. im used to an old 89 silverado diesel and heavy equipment that had to be started eith eather to start. Which i know will hurt a newer tdi.
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Old October 22nd, 2019, 23:28   #17
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You're welcome. I have a 7.3 that can be cantankerous in the ultra cold, so I know where you're coming from. My '11 tdi started up just fine numerous times after sitting outside all night at -40 with no heating of any kind. I get the cold start wear concern, but the engine isn't going to wear itself out from several months of cold starts each year.
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Old October 22nd, 2019, 23:50   #18
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You're welcome. I have a 7.3 that can be cantankerous in the ultra cold, so I know where you're coming from. My '11 tdi started up just fine numerous times after sitting outside all night at -40 with no heating of any kind. I get the cold start wear concern, but the engine isn't going to wear itself out from several months of cold starts each year.
Ah, thats why i figured the second battery and fuel heater would be enough. but my dad is adimant on a block heater because one guy said they are hard to start. FYI thay guy works at a dealorship. im sure they had not winterized the summer fuel and the batteries were low... Anyway him and i came up with this idea. oh and my second battery is in my spare tire. wired with 1 awg wire to the other battery.

Last edited by DivineChaos; October 23rd, 2019 at 00:27.
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Old October 23rd, 2019, 07:38   #19
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TDI's were TESTED in interior Alaska / Canada for cold weather starting and running.



Usual prereqs - good battery, Proper oil , good local fuel, follow the starting procedure in your owner's manual.


Now, if you are really convinced you need a heater (and you won't be able to plug in because you're at a remote site) - look at the Webasto / Espar fuel burning heaters. Pricy, but made for the job you're asking it to do.


Sometimes, trying to think outside the box is not such a great idea....


On your second battery - did you hook them together directly, or did you put a separator so they won't steal power from each other ?
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Old October 23rd, 2019, 08:34   #20
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Starts easy when cold.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05xc1_9oCyw

No need for all that rigged up stuff, which is just a potential for something else bad to happen.
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Old October 23rd, 2019, 08:44   #21
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One thing to consider, since the phrase "lower rad hose" has come up repeatedly in this thread, is the location of the t-stat.

Someone wiser than me will need to comment on the location in this specific model, but on all previous TDIs the t-stat is up-stream of the lower rad hose, so a lower rad-hose-style heater won't do anything other than warm up the bottom of the radiator. The t-stat will effectively prevent heating of the block and any possible convection effect.

Hence the typical coolant convection heater installation plumbed into the oil cooler path on the other side of the t-stat, and why many people opt for a Frostheater kit with exactly the right replacement hoses, mounts, pictorial instructions, etc.

Again, depends on the specifics of t-stat location for this model.
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Old October 23rd, 2019, 09:16   #22
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Originally Posted by Vince Waldon View Post
One thing to consider, since the phrase "lower rad hose" has come up repeatedly in this thread, is the location of the t-stat.
Someone wiser than me will need to comment on the location in this specific model, but on all previous TDIs the t-stat is up-stream of the lower rad hose, so a lower rad-hose-style heater won't do anything other than warm up the bottom of the radiator. The t-stat will effectively prevent heating of the block and any possible convection effect.
Hence the typical coolant convection heater installation plumbed into the oil cooler path on the other side of the t-stat, and why many people opt for a Frostheater kit with exactly the right replacement hoses, mounts, pictorial instructions, etc.
Again, depends on the specifics of t-stat location for this model.
Why would vw break the thermodynamic law of heat rises cold sinks. Leave it to the germans to make the lower hose the hot inlet and the upper the outlet. I suppose both hoses are the same diameter. So it pulls coolant from the top. so if your coolant is low you will cook the motor fast being it will suck air. Brillant VW.

I has a Corsica that the top of the radiator broke. I just loosened the cap and kept driving. Stopped every now and then to add water.
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Old October 23rd, 2019, 11:18   #23
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I lived in northern utah for 6 years bud. Plenty fimilure with 3am start ups in February at -60f
As long as your oil is up to date, it's not an issue.
10 bucks for a 1lb is about right, 20 for a big tank.
I just can understand how your willing to let a flame heat source be unattended next to your car and possibly others, risk of theft and what not and also damages to other things and your car if it got knocked over.
It's a very complicated and attentive solution to a problem that is easily remedied by proper maintenance and other solutions that have been around for 50+ years.
One thing I might suggest is a pre oil priming pump so things are lubed up, but again, kinda nessasary if the oil is up to date.

Just about everything has been tried and this idea is not new.
I saw a video from Russia where they just set some cardboard on fire under the panzer plate.
I'm no stranger to crazy projects that work but are overcomplicated and run well past the initial budget. It's an idea that probably would work ok of you stayed attentive to it. I just cant rational the reason to stay outside in the cold to heat up the car.
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Old October 23rd, 2019, 20:26   #24
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I lived in northern utah for 6 years bud. Plenty fimilure with 3am start ups in February at -60f.
mighty cold temps. basically walk from the jobsite to the car (normally quarter mile). hook up the unit and sit in the car for 5 min. To me the design is simple. Most vehicles ive installed dual batteries for CCA. had a 91 escort that i would crank till she went. Never had to replace starter in 2 years of ownership.

id say 70% of my miles are hwy. 1500-2500 miles monthly. so 3-4 months on oil. But if you never had issues starting while NEVER plugging in.
Back in the 70-80s they made propane block/ suplimental heaters for equipment and 18 wheelers. But ppl want tooo much for them. anyway, thanks for your concerns.
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Old October 23rd, 2019, 20:32   #25
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ok, your plan makes a bit more sense now that you spelled it out to me, i though you said 30 minutes? guess you just want to warm it up not get to operating temps. i get it.
Still...
let us know how it turns out, just be safe about it. im sure you will.
look into buying a heated vest and or full coat liner. there awesome. Also polypropylene under leggings and shirt.
i do (used to before i had the kid) backpack camping. i go winter or summer, most places get down to 40F in summer nights as its high in elevation. anyways, those polypropylene pants and shirt do wonders.
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Old October 23rd, 2019, 20:51   #26
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ok, your plan makes a bit more sense now that you spelled it out to me, i though you said 30 minutes? guess you just want to warm it up not get to operating temps. i get it.
Still...
let us know how it turns out, just be safe about it. im sure you will.
look into buying a heated vest and or full coat liner. there awesome. Also polypropylene under leggings and shirt.
i do (used to before i had the kid) backpack camping. i go winter or summer, most places get down to 40F in summer nights as its high in elevation. anyways, those polypropylene pants and shirt do wonders.
by my calculations to would boil the coolant within 30 min, coming from -10f. so in 5 minutes it will get the heater circut, to 60f or so. im only trying to get the coolant above 40f. nothing worse than coming out to a car that wont start after working 12 hrs.
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Old October 24th, 2019, 07:20   #27
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One thing I dont get is you want the wear of the engine to be minimal. The issue with block heaters is that all the oil sits under the block in the pan. It's nice to have a warm heat exchanger and the oil warms up quickly but not enough to do the " no cold wear". O though the purposes of this was to cause less internal wear as you stated earlier. If that's the case, a simple heater blanket stuck to the underside of the oil pan will do plenty with a 100 ah agm. And like I said earlier, you can get instant hot air in the cabin with a cabin space heater.
Saves you the hassle
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Old October 24th, 2019, 09:30   #28
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One thing I dont get is you want the wear of the engine to be minimal. The issue with block heaters is that all the oil sits under the block in the pan. It's nice to have a warm heat exchanger and the oil warms up quickly but not enough to do the " no cold wear". O though the purposes of this was to cause less internal wear as you stated earlier. If that's the case, a simple heater blanket stuck to the underside of the oil pan will do plenty with a 100 ah agm. And like I said earlier, you can get instant hot air in the cabin with a cabin space heater.
Saves you the hassle
So a silicone pan heater glued to the oil pan will do better than a block heater? I suppose the convection from the hot oil would warm the block... And my car does have the 12v auxiliary heater from factory. But not the block heater. Its strange that only the Canadian ones came with it. And the usa the auxiliary heater was an option and not standard. How big of a heater can be glued to the oil pan?
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Old October 24th, 2019, 09:53   #29
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I tried using a under aquarium reptile heater, its 120v and plugged in over night kept the oil temp at about 40f but that was if I plugged it in when I got home when the oil was hot. Doing so from a cold pan didnt do very much. I ended up going for a frost plug on my ahu in the end hmbut if I did it again I would also add a 12v pan heater. I saw some that glue on and I've seen some that go into the pan via a welded bung. I'm not that fimilure with them but I do km now that the ones designed for tractors and cummins would work they are a trim to fit thjng.
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Old October 24th, 2019, 11:04   #30
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I tried using a under aquarium reptile heater, its 120v and plugged in over night kept the oil temp at about 40f but that was if I plugged it in when I got home when the oil was hot. Doing so from a cold pan didnt do very much. I ended up going for a frost plug on my ahu in the end hmbut if I did it again I would also add a 12v pan heater. I saw some that glue on and I've seen some that go into the pan via a welded bung. I'm not that fimilure with them but I do km now that the ones designed for tractors and cummins would work they are a trim to fit thjng.
I saw a few that replace the drain plug with a heating element.
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