CRUA Engine Diagram

Has anyone seen a diagram or photos which show where the various engine components are located? I see that oil filter changes are now going to be done from the bottom, so where did they put the oil cooler? It has always lived at the bottom of the filter housing.

From the ea288 study manual, the oil cooler is above the filter element, I believe you can see it from the top.

The oil cooler is a rectangular thing mounted atop the oil filter housing, sort of buried under the intake manifold assembly.

The filter cartridge itself is angled down, so you are correct it gets accessed from underneath. There is a wire harness holder that I take loose and move the harness out of the way to minimize the mess.

Thanks! I found that study manual. Lots of great information there.

Make sure you have a 32mm socket handy to remove the cap from the filter housing.

First you use a 13mm to remove the drain plug in the cap, then put it back and use the 32mm to remove the cap.

I did it this past weekend and forgot to bring my 32mm socket with me. We were changing the oil at another location, not at home. Man, that sucked. I ended up changing the oil, then later at home had to get underneath again and change the filter. It was a right kerfuffle.

In the future, I'm going to change the filter FIRST, and THEN drain the pan. It's much nicer to have the filter cartridge go plop, into an empty drain pan, instead of a full one, which results in oil splashing everywhere. I mean, that didn't happen to me, because I used two pans, but I'll use one pan next time. Less cleanup.

All the screws that hold the bottom cover on had the threads stripped off of them. They must use the absolute cheapest fasteners they can find for that. I replaced them with stainless #10 pan-head sheet metal screws and washers. 3/4" long. Those should last forever. You need 8 of them if you feel like buying those in advance. Cost a couple bucks.

Mike_04GolfTDI said:

All the screws that hold the bottom cover on had the threads stripped off of them. They must use the absolute cheapest fasteners they can find for that. I replaced them with stainless #10 pan-head sheet metal screws and washers. 3/4" long. Those should last forever. You need 8 of them if you feel like buying those in advance. Cost a couple bucks.

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You mean the belly pan? I've never had any issue with the torq screws biting those speed clips VW uses. I'd have to wonder what your dealer did to your ride

Yep, never been an issue here either so long as some moron beforehand hadn't monkeyed something up.

oilhammer said:

Yep, never been an issue here either so long as some moron beforehand hadn't monkeyed something up.

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I guess I'm the moron. Nobody has touched the car except me.

I would never tighten them too much, but I did remove them with a small impact driver. Maybe they were slightly stuck with corrosion, and violently torquing them out in such a merciless fashion just took the threads off. They did have rust on them, so that's probably what happened.

So I still say they were not the right fasteners for the job, if they aren't rust-proof. Of course they're going to rust, under a car, in Canada.

Anyway, I replaced them with stainless steel, so I don't expect any problems again.

I've always wanted one of those small impact drivers, but the more and more I think about it, the more I think I'll just get myself into trouble.

I've always used socket and wrench for the belly pans, sure I wasted 10 min or so, but garage time isn't all that bad.

Also with the magnisum chloride and brine they use before each storm down, here I'd have to imagine is as worse of a service life you could expect, screws never rusted.