Leaking AC high side port - port repair/replacement question

I had some R134a left from another job and was going to check the B4V to see if it needed topping off, and as soon as I pulled the cap off the high side port, there was a slow hiss, which shortly turned into a gusher. I popped the cap back on and now am looking into what will be needed to fix it.

There are tools available to replace certain valves without losing the charge, but I need to know what style the ports are. Do any of you know what the specs of those ports are?

Any tips on this job would be much appreciated.

Thanks, Tim

Not sure about your B4V, but my Jetta has balls. For the ports that is. Those tools I've seen are for schraeder valves.

Auto Zone sells replacement valves, but unfortunately you're going to lose the entire charge.

http://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...ech-a-c-system-valve-core/167286_199888_17869

http://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...santech-a-c-system-valve-core/951984_199903_0


There aren't any schrader valves, that I saw, but AZ does sell them and lists them as fitting the car.

You're going to need special sockets or risk damaging the valves. I think the first time I replaced them, I used an adjustable wrench, but they got scarred up.

-Todd

another receiver dryer? id try either napa, or autohausaz. and a shop to set you up with vacuum, and you can use a shop for a weight charge, or bring home a put a few bottles in if you have gauges&know how.

Recevier dryer? Is that to be replaced if I open the system to atmosphere?

The system was working properly, although probably a little low on charge since it struggled a bit in the Texas summer. I'm hoping to need to replace only the valve. It's a stretch for me to get my mind around, but there are tools that are claimed to be used to change the valve without losing the charge. That one is for 13 & 16mm ports. This other tool is for JRA ports. I don't know which type of port is used on the '96 B4V.

Dryer and TXV should be replaced. Technically, the system should be flushed to metal with a weighed in oil and refrigerant charge.

I'd be interested in knowing if you can swap cores. If you don't lose the entire charge, I'd just top off. I do it, although it's not the preferred way.

-Todd

if you dont know what your doing/how to service an A/C, just releasing charge can be dangerous, and you can risk damaging A/C system. alternative is to take to a shop, kind of expensive with state& shop A/C fees.
i dont know of a valve replacement that, (-that will work),wont open system to atmosphere& lose charge, can be right in from of your face if you want to chance it/dont know how to do it too well. & can send you to the emergency room,,.

Whatever became of this?

I pulled the service ports off a spare set of lines and I'm seeing the bottom of the schrader valve. What I thought was a ball, is just a black rubber boot, when looking into the valve from the opening.

I'm thinking the Mastercool tool you linked would work, but you'd need to pull out the boot. Unsure if you'd be able to get it back in. I'm thinking it's likely just a dust boot.

Mt2907 is the kit I bought, years ago. It comes with extra schrader valves, but no clear way to get them in, with the boot installed.
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...-a-c-system-valve-core-and-cap-kit/947268_0_0

-Todd

I think the ball is the seal. Actually it's more of a cup.

Hmmmm..... you may be right.

Check this out on page 4.... it looks to be what the B4s have. If this is the case, I have no clue what the schrader valves that come with the MT2907 kit are for. They don't look anything like what's in the rendering.

It appears the core would need to be forced out, due to the locking tabs. The next time I'm at the JY, I think I'll grab a few ports to mess around with.

-Todd

I never got around to fixing the leak, so can't add any useful info.

What are you referring to regarding page 4?

Are these definitely Schraeder valves in the AC ports?

timsch said:

Are these definitely Schraeder valves in the AC ports?

Click to expand...

Yes, but not the tire valve style you're thinking about. Schrader is a trademarked name, just like Q-Tip.

I forgot to post the link.
http://www.schraderinternational.co...rica/AC Valve Manual_User Guide_10-21-13.ashx

I called Santech and asked about the cores that are included in the kit I linked. Apparently, this is a universal kit and the extra cores are just extra parts to us.

The tech confirmed the only way to replace the cores on primary seal ports, is to replace the entire service port.

Are your caps good? If you look in them, there should be an o-ring that helps the port seal.

-Todd

The caps are good, by all indications. I didn't know there was an issue until I took off the cap on the port that leaked, as stated in my OP. I wasn't counting on the cap to fully seal after that. Maybe it does hold without any leakage. Time will tell if I don't do anything about it....

Any idea on how big a hassle it is to replace the port?

Should recover the refrigerant, replace the valve and drier, evacuate the system and recharge by weight. Many recommend also changing the TXV too.

I'd prolly slowly vent the system so no oil is lost, replace the port, evacuate and recharge.

I figger no appreciable moisture is going to get in in the few seconds the system's open.

KLXD said:

I'd prolly slowly vent the system so no oil is lost, replace the port, evacuate and recharge.

I figger no appreciable moisture is going to get in in the few seconds the system's open.

Click to expand...

Agreed. I'd probably change both valves and orings, to be safe. It's also a perfect time to pour some oil in, if you think you lost some.

Not that I've ever done it, but the air can be purged by charging through the low side and depressing the high side valve. When you see a steady stream of refrigerant blowing out, close the high side.

-Todd

I had a leak on mine, I just rolled the ball around and cleaned it. That was 3 months ago and still good.

Maybe OP should try cleaning his balls and see if that helps.

The commentary in this thread is getting colorful.

If you do manage to get the valve changed, but lose refrigerant, best to pull a vacuum on the system in order to purge air. You will never get all the air out by purging from the high side port.