tool for case pressure regulator

Hello all, tried the search function with no answers.
My question is about the injection pump case pressure regulator. Does anyone sell a socket that fits the double D head? I want to check mine and I am unable to remove mine for inspection. 11mm seems a bit to big and I dont want to modify any of my Snap-on tools to just try to remove it. Of couse my car is equiped with 1Z engine and it has less room on the back of the injection pump to access this piece, and I dont want to remove injection pump if there is an easier way to do this. Does anybody have a suggestion? Thanks.

Buy a Craftsman 10MM six point socket and modify it (IE: grind it) to fit.

I used a Craftsman 10mm combination wrench on it (the open end, not the box end... or the open spanner not the ring spanner if you prefer) and had no problems either removing it or replacing it. I agree with honkey, tho, modifying a 10mm six point socket would be the way to go.

All in all it only took about 5 minutes to remove, reassemble and replace the case pressure value. The NB seemed peppier afterwards, too.

scurvy said:

I used a Craftsman 10mm combination wrench on it (the open end, not the box end... or the open spanner not the ring spanner if you prefer) and had no problems either removing it or replacing it. I agree with honkey, tho, modifying a 10mm six point socket would be the way to go.

All in all it only took about 5 minutes to remove, reassemble and replace the case pressure value. The NB seemed peppier afterwards, too.

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Had yours fallen all the way out?

Sometimes that flat is in just the wrong spot, especially if the fitting is tight and on this enigne the pump is tilted back so there is less room to get to it.

I use a 10mm crowsfoot wrench to remove and tighten them.

whitedog said:

Had yours fallen all the way out?

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The case pressure valve on the NB wasn't completely disassembled but it was on its way apart... I'd say the center pin had walked out about 1/4" or so.

whitedog said:

Sometimes that flat is in just the wrong spot, especially if the fitting is tight and on this enigne the pump is tilted back so there is less room to get to it.

Click to expand...

It wasn't easy to start, but once I got it moving it came right out - had to put the wrench on at a wonky angle and give it a whack with a hammer to get it started.

Paramedick said:

I use a 10mm crowsfoot wrench to remove and tighten them.

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I tried that first with my Horrible Freight crowsfeet - fries did not come with that shake.

scurvy said:

I tried that first with my Horrible Freight crowsfeet - fries did not come with that shake.

Click to expand...

I tried several brands. Some were too fat, some too flimsy. I have a Craftsman that works perfectly.

Thanks to all. Yeah I tried the crows foot, my valve seems to be clocked to a point where it wont fit. I have some doubles of my 10mm sockets, so I will try that route. Does any one have a picture of there modified tool?
I hope this is where my problem lies with extended crank and poor idle when first started when cold. I have fixed the bubbles in fuel line problem with a new Mann fuel filter. Other than that I can't complain
Edit- Quick question, should I "peen" the end of the regulator after I push the end back in or just see how long it lasts?

I have never heard of anyone peening the end.. but for the highly tuned cars form RC.. he likes to install a doodad called the keystone mod. I may be completely wrong, but I believe keeping this located flush with its mount is the purpose of this little doodad.

of course, said doodad has never peen photographed that I have seen and is only available from RC with a RC5 or 6 type Tune...

Not sure I would go and peen the case pressure unit.. but once you have the tool, its easy and quick to check its status like say every oil change or two.