slow, dumb, cheap compound setup!

Will that de-lipping be creating a really smoky burn and reduce combustion efficiency by eliminating the re-entrant part of the design. I know it was done to drop the CR.
What were those pistons to start with and what are you intending the CR to be with those cuts?

ARLs to start with
Compression will be... less.

I'm far too lazy on the tuning side to get it burning as clean as I'd like. Even my other car with megasquirt that I can flash as I drive kinda runs like garbage.

Turbo Z said:

Andy
Have you ever evaluate what is best in early spool, twin scroll system with short manifold or quick spool valve?

Click to expand...

A twin scroll turbine housing with open manifold is not so great at all but can be made better with a quick spool valve like the one pictured below,

https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/supra_2267_345948851

A divided manifold with twin scroll turbine housing is a great system.It can be made even better with this type of diverter valve,

http://markenperformance.com/files/...verter_valve_bd_diesel_marken_performance.jpg

[486] said:

ARLs to start with
Compression will be... less.

I'm far too lazy on the tuning side to get it burning as clean as I'd like. Even my other car with megasquirt that I can flash as I drive kinda runs like garbage.

Click to expand...

if you buying anyway piston go for crafter ones. 16.x CR out of the box

#258 up there has a picture of the halfway cut pistons before some dremel work and breaking the edge. They're in the motor for all the other pics.

well, it starts

starter doesn't disengage now that I took the 1/8" spacers out from between the trans and engine so I'll be playing with that some more tomorrow. :\

getting the picture on why guys buy thousand dollar clutches that are nice and prepackaged...

drove it a couple days now,
beat on it once a little bit while watching the LP gauge, 16cm hx40 seems to wake up around 3k rpm running so lean that there isn't but a tiny bit of smoke, my timing is still pretty retarded from when the HG was leaking though. Got up to 20 psi LP before I let off around 5500, didn't see what the HP or emp were at.

starts a little harder than before, nothing unreasonable though, maybe 5-8 seconds of cranking from dead cold with no glow plugs, less with GPs.

must be big unit the hx40. in my sequential setup the efr7064 LP spooled at 2000 rpm, HP running around PR3.5 there and steeply going down as LP speeds up

Rub87 said:

must be big unit the hx40. in my sequential setup the efr7064 LP spooled at 2000 rpm, HP running around PR3.5 there and steeply going down as LP speeds up

Click to expand...

More info about your build Ruben!

Its not on the car anymore, i couldn't keep the manifold from twisting and it always got leaky at cyl 1. When it ran it worked great. 1400 kg air at 5400 rpm with 1:1 boost emp

Rub87 said:

must be big unit the hx40. in my sequential setup the efr7064 LP spooled at 2000 rpm, HP running around PR3.5 there and steeply going down as LP speeds up

Click to expand...

HP is 46/58mm, 52/46mm turbine, 5cm volute
LP is 60/86mm, 76/64mm turbine, 16cm volute
so a lot different than gt1444 HP
this is made of junk I had more or less laying around, $300 into both the turbos.

So far, first priority is fixing the speedometer again. Fuel gauge beeps a lot when it doesn't have a speed signal, as there's no damping of the fuel slosh on the sending unit.
I'm running a stock side mount as the interstage intercooler, so that's got to go, I'm sure my HP is running some crazy PR with vacuum at its inlet before the LP wakes up.

Gotta fix those two, then I'll get the fuel back in to the tune so it spools a little sooner

Any updates?

ugh fine, I'll get some pics uploaded

was trying to fit another a/w, but stupidly got the 4.5" thick core one again rather than the 3.5" thick one...

Obviously not going to work with a headlight there. Stock sidemount went back in.

Could maybe have snuck the exhaust out the back with another few days work but that's just more effort than I wanted to put into something so trivial. Can't put it out the back of the car anyways because of how the rear hatch doesn't seal. Fills the cabin with exhaust if a window's open.

bit o holesaw and some sledgehammer work

Good and ugly.

Can also see the old aluminum sidepipe on this one. Had a throttlebody from a GMC something or another on the end to act as a muffler. It rusted up pretty quick though.
Oh, and the left axle's in.

turbo drain nightmare, quickly got tired of that setup and capped off two of the ports from the HP turbo and just ran the HP to the pan and the LP to the block. The adapter to the block is only 1/2" ID though so that's kind of a downer. Haven't noticed a huge amount of oil in the piping yet, but I'm sure it'll be there at some point.

Made a wrench to try and get all that junk tightened so close to eachother, but the cheap chinese fittings are 26mm rather than 1" so I screwed myself there...



All in all it runs and drives, haven't beat on it much or flashed a bunch of fuel in it yet as the stock sidemount is likely what killed the old HP turbo running an absurd PR trying to breathe through it. Makes 25 PSI interstage measured before the IC and 50 in the intake, so nice even numbers though unbalanced PRs. Had the thought lately to just ditch the interstage IC all together. Might do that, gotta find some time to wander the junkyard and get more bent up aluminum pipe from ricers with cold air intakes before I'll spend the time cutting up the intake side again. Currently patched together with junkyard exhaust pipe, but that's heavy 409 stainless.
Oh fixed the speedometer and it still gets 48. Likely go up once I get some fuel into it as it's running stupid lean out of boost. Can accelerate up to 70 mph, foot to the floor short shifting it to keep below 2200 revs and the pyro reads 500F. Way too lean for peak BSFC.

It’s getting pretty snug in there lol i never thought I’d see a hx40 lighting that easy.

oh right yeah, the thing's running so lean that it's nowhere near as lively as it'll be when its got some fuel in it, but already the 40 lights up right quick above 3k rpm
1st and 2nd are so short from there to the limiter that it doesn't do a thing in first and second only makes 10 or 15 psi interstage, 3rd on out it makes the full 25 PSI interstage

Raced a focus RS, it was backfiring on overrun, so he's got a tune at least. I stomped on it when he started doing that ****ing three honks "hey police look at me" thing, so I might have gotten a bit of a head start, but lazy no fuel spoolup gave it right back to him. Burning clean, I actually kept right up from 20mph to 80 (in a 45). Maybe he just couldn't drive or something? I honestly didn't think this would keep up with a stock one of those, but hey maybe.
Got another chinese a/w on order for the interstage to get rid of the stock sidemount. Likely help immensely with spoolup with the HP not trying to suck through that thing. Still got to put more fuel in it, but I'm still waiting until I've got both the good ICs in there. Finally shelled out the bigger bucks and got the smaller 3.5" core one rather than the cheaper 4.5" core ones. It's going on top of the valve cover, the bigger one would fit with a lot of cutting and welding, but I tend to get mad at myself when I weld aluminum.
Still getting 600 miles on a 12.5gal fillup, so 48mpg.

ETA: numbers from google on the focus RS as stock is 3,434 lbs and 350hp, mine's probably 2800 or so. I'm doubting even more now that his was running right or something.

started reading thru this, you used an AWD trans from what in this build? sorry if missed that part about your trans work

those are available cheap now. Full tdi AWD conversions from europe...prior to that, folks were using R32 or Audi TT stuff with swapped out gear stacks.

How cheap? I'm probably around $2-2.5k into the trans, tcase, clutch, axles, starter, flywheel...

sardo_67 said:

started reading thru this, you used an AWD trans from what in this build? sorry if missed that part about your trans work

Click to expand...

diesel tiguan
lmu code
from the britain
details in the latter half of the twin disc clutch thread in my sig, more details in the MQ500 thread on here you can find in my started threads

honestly I'm kind of regretting it, got an 01m I'd like to build up real mean full manual and all that, but I also really like the idea of 4wd sometime soonish

Ya I am going to be doing an auto to 6spd in my 04 BEW soon as I blow the auto up, started acting up like 10,000 ago so I babied it for about 8k or 3 weeks ago then just got mad and have been driving it hard. No more issues since haha.

Basically it's my cheap DD so I wanted 6spds but not paying for it lol.
Looking at other options for a gear box, thinking of getting just the box from frans for $700 then sourcing the rest of the parts off local CL GLIs.


486 you looking to sell yours?

If you raced that thing on a roll, instead of from a launch, then you took the entire advantage of an AWD system away from him and turned it into his biggest detractor. It is nice to know the tricks so you can beat the cars normally faster than you. Not letting others get a chance to spool their turbo is a nice trick too. I just like playing with Diesel trucks myself. There is a respect there.

Houpty GT said:

If you raced that thing on a roll, instead of from a launch, then you took the entire advantage of an AWD system away from him and turned it into his biggest detractor. It is nice to know the tricks so you can beat the cars normally faster than you. Not letting others get a chance to spool their turbo is a nice trick too. I just like playing with Diesel trucks myself. There is a respect there.

Click to expand...

spool is irrelevent, both of us went through a couple gears

I haven't tried actually launching mine yet, it's got a rather harsh clutch and while the axles are 4340, the shaft in the transfer case is still stock. Imagine that between the mean clutch and heavy flywheel it would find something to break. Even fwd, it really doesn't lack for traction, with full boost not coming on until 3rd. Imagine it'd be a disappointment no matter what trying to launch it.

you're finding more respect in the truck world? Around here there's just as many dumb kids as in every subset of car culture.
besides, why try and make a truck fast? I'd rather have a heavy flatbed and crane on it, with the n/a IDI's pump set up so lean it can never hurt itself no matter how I drive.

Yep, it may not be their thing but they respect the Diesel. When I was in the mountains on my way to Minnesota 3 weeks ago, there were 2 trucks coming along for a while and we had a good time comparing our exhausts. I could have won if I was still overdoing it with some Race520's in there for testing. Fast is all relative. You can get a lot of economy and torque out of a TDI for cheap and reliable but the gassers are going get away when they have their field day on expensive mods. 320 foot-pounds with a 56 mpg makes me smile everyday, even if 2 percent of the cars on the road are faster. Race car or daily driver? Decide and make the plan.

I need to find time someday to look through your posts on transmissions.

Finally got tired of lazy spool and smoke enough to do something... unrelated... to the terrible maps. Well hey, had to be done at some point anyways.

screwed up, forgot that I was up against the water outlet and couldn't clock the turbo any further up on the compressor discharge, so I had to take the compressor cover off and grind it down a lot. Really gotta get those 90 degree tips for my big snap ring pliers... Made due with screwdrivers and a pliers, welded tabs on the ends of the ring for reassembly.

the hood does indeed close.
previously it was going from the hx40 into the stock sidemount, fine once spooled but before the 40 wakes up the td04 is pulling a vacuum on the stock sidemount. Run it up in the revs with no load and it'll spool the td04 with just cold exhaust volume, the 40 not so much. Could hear some surge, so bad juju.
Should do better with the a/w in there. No water in it yet, gotta drill a vent in the water tanks so it fills once the pump's running. Kinda neat aside on the other a/w is that it's plumbed up so the res is on the pump intake, the restriction of the core is enough that the pump pushes water through the 'steam line' constantly. Point is, the reservoir can be below the level of the intercooler and it'll still fill while the pump is running. Neat for this one because it's the highest thing in the engine bay, so no way to make the res higher than it.

potatocam pic of the well by the a/c expansion valve, dunno why just thought it'd be a good picture and so here it is.

Awesomeness.
I’ve always wanted an Air-Water IC.
I’m super impressed that it fits top mount, didn’t expect that at all.

It looks like the same Frozenboost one I have NIB sitting on a shelf. It's for sale!
I bought a different model and never ended up using it. PM me if you want a deal.

WOW! I have the same intercooler but was going to mount where your turbo is for the SDI long runner intake (20psi max).



What radiator are you running to cool the water? What pump are you using?


Looks like you are using the side mount. I thought the sidemount between turbos. Sidemount would make a good coolant reservoir for the A/W along with the additional radiator. Most people short change on cooling the water.

I was running the stock IC as an interstage before
see the big ugly diamondplate intake? that's got a 4.5" core chinese intercooler welded up in it for the HP intercooler. The new intercooler I just mounted up top is the 3.5" core one I should have bought for the HP as well. It is a pain to get at the intake bolts with that huge lump there.

Running a pump and rad from the inverter on a first gen prius, just happened to find a couple of them in a junkyard. Fried the first one hooking it up backwards, just gotta imagine that it's romex coming out of the pump, black is power white is ground.
Gonna run both ICs in series in the same loop, from my computer water cooling days it's well known that the temperature of the water stays pretty constant throughout the loop so long as you've got a half decent pump.

ETA: on running not enough radiator, turbo is only making significant heat when you're making significant boost, meaning the intercooler itself acts as a radiator most of the time. Heck, you could likely get by pretty well just filling it for extra thermal mass and plugging the tanks, if it weren't bolted to the hot as heck cylinder head and above the exhaust manifold...

ETA2: I wanted to run the IC with the opposite end inlet/outlet configuration, for more even loading of the core, but I can't clock my turbo so the compressor outlet points straight up, runs into the water outlet on the head. If it were an HX35 maybe it'd work? One of those ones with the v-band elbow right off the compressor housing would be perfect, just dump it straight into the IC and not have to deal with all the loopty-doop piping garbage.

Couple days ago now, pulled the VW in after work to put a new brake booster in, old one made a sucking snap and then stopped working.

I managed to put a turbo in the way of the booster, so to get it out the easiest way is to drop the motor, NBD.
Pull the old booster out and the back of the master looks mildly moist, but it never lost brake fluid. Pull the booster apart and its full of black diesel oil. Vacuum in the booster was overcoming three check valves and sucking oil up through the vacuum pump.

Well ****, not gonna put a brandy new $25 junkyard booster on that. I'll just return the ****er and keep it manual brakes. May as well cut up the old booster and weld it together as a smaller adapter, save some space underhood.
Get that all jammed together and a pushrod put together from the old bits, get the engine jacked back up and one of the two trans-side engine mount bolts pulls its threads out. M12x1.5 bastard thread. Already had helicoiled the motor side ones and went with 12x1.75 studs made outta the old ALH head bolts last time they were apart, just gonna limp it home with 3/4 of the bolts holding the motor in.

Lift it up to resecure under cover that the floor jack managed to dislodge and look at the underside for the first time in a while since the trans swap. Two torn brand new CV boots on the left side. Had the small boot on the sheetmetal cover going on on the inner, going to go to a fullsize boot for more articulation range. Engine torque mount is broken for the fifth time, had made it of 1/4" aluminum plate this time to try and keep it together, getting 3/16" steel next time. Well ****, more **** to fix along with the motor mount bolt.
Driving it home any time it gets over 2k RPMs it stalls out and flashes the glowplug light. Good thing I can get 62ish in 6th at right under 2k. Probably yanked some wires dropping the motor down.

Scanned the codes a day later and get a 16989 P0605 internal ROM error. Well heck, I was hoping for an open circuit code I could figure out real easy. Maybe I screwed up the last time I reflashed it to try and get rid of the ASV solenoid and N75 solenoid. Might have forgotten to re-checksum the bin before putting it in there. Funny that it would wait until months later to decide to throw codes just when I happen to do major work to it, but not really touching the wiring.

I'll probably work on reflashing the computer tonight, roll back to before I screwed with the hex editor, add some more lowend fueling and put the top end timing back in while I'm at it. Helicoil all of the m12x1.5 threads to a proper 1.75 thread and make yet another dogbone mount bolt shear strap thing.