MOGolf's suggestings and other pickiness
Scurvy, That's a wonderful write-up on this procedure using HF tools. However I suggest ...
... loosening the 30mm axle nut while the vehicle is still on the ground, with the parking brakes holding the car still.
... taking out the brake disc retaining screw before removing the brake caliper. You might need to have the brakes applied, or put a screwdriver through the caliper in the brake disc edge, to hold the disc while you remove that screw.
...a 27mm socket fits better than an 28mm on the welded nut of the threaded rod.
...in post #3, in the picture with the numbered parts, #3 is piece #13 in the kit (most of the pieces have numbers 955-nn where nn = 13 for this), and #5 in the picture should be turned around from what is shown. I recommend putting the thicker end against the bearing housing. #5 is the second smallest tube in the kit. #6 is the smaller of the two unnumbered plates.
... in post 4, once again use piece #13 to press the new bearing in. If I recall correctly, I was able to use #06 on the backside instead of the smaller tube plate. I was able to draw the bearings in completely in by hand. Doing by hand allows you to know when it bottoms out into the housing. No impact gun required for installing.
... when installing the hub, you say to press only on the inner race. I suggest using #13 on the backside, full width flat side against the bearing. This will support the inner race from being pushed out, and pressure of drawing the hub into place is applied to the outer race (which is pressing against the circlip in this operation). Installing a plate so that it has a portion inside the inner bearing race will prevent the hub from being fully installed.
... in post #5 "Replace the brake caliper and retaining bolts. Torque to 125Nm"
It should read "Install the brake caliper and slider pins. Torque the pins to 28Nm." You'll snap off the pins at 125Nm.
Just my $0.02 worth.