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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas

VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas Discussions area for A5/MkV Jetta/Golf (2005/2006 PD and 2009 CR).

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Old April 1st, 2010, 11:13   #16
DanG144
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Can you go back into VCDS, HVAC module, measuring blocks, then look in the upper left corner of the screen and tell me the name of your label file.

Then I can help you out. The pressure is going to read out in BAR (almost certainly) so you have to multiply by 14.5 to get psig.

Remember you cannot tell how much refrigerant is in the system by the pressure alone. But you can tell if it has some liquid refrigerant in it.

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Old April 1st, 2010, 11:25   #17
funoutdoors121
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Label file is: 1K0-820-047.lbl
I am not sure on how to use the measuring blocks function, just trying to learn how to use VCDS.
Thanks for any info/tips!
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Old April 1st, 2010, 12:25   #18
xracerbob
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When we were in the HVAC module the system pressure came right up and verified the earlier test we did with the gauge system. It is indicated in bar and not psi.
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Old April 1st, 2010, 12:47   #19
DanG144
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Go to VCDS, HVAC, MEASURING BLOCKS, and put the number 3 in the pull down box on the left. Then hit GO. It will read some parameters for you.

This is measuring block 3, and it has 4 fields,
the first is coolant (I would have chosen "refrigerant") pressure in BARS.
The second is fan speed actual,
the third is fan speed specified,
and the 4th is engine speed.

This group makes sense as the pressure is what determines fan speed (or at least is one of the fan speed inputs.)

About 14.5 psi per bar. You can find out what it should be with the engine off and everything static (say off for 30 minutes) for the given ambient temperature. This is best measured before running the car for the day, otherwise the temperature is impacted by the heat of the radiator and other vehicle components.
Refrigerant pressure vs temperature if you use this table, then you can skip the multiplication.

If I recall correctly pressure will be up near 200 psi (call it 12 to 15 bar) when the system is running well and is loaded. This does vary with ambient temperature (lower when colder, higher when hotter.)
Check this pressure with the cabin fan on fast speed, and the engine at 1500 rpm, after 2 to 5 minutes read the parameters.

Put the air to the center dash outlets and expect the temperature to be about 35-45 F or so.

(Please do not take this as gospel, this is best effort at memory and using the A4 Bentley manual - the A5 manual gives no expected readings.)
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Old April 1st, 2010, 12:55   #20
DanG144
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fun,
I sent you some files via email. They may help you get started with VCDS.
Dan
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Old April 1st, 2010, 17:30   #21
funoutdoors121
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Thanks so much, Dan! Sent you a PM.
OP, sorry for semi-hijacking your thread...debating about posting in the VCDS thread or on this one, but since my issue was an AC question, and the tool to answer it is VCDS, it was a tough call !
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Old April 1st, 2010, 19:01   #22
DanG144
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I checked my wife's 2010 Jetta Climatic system tonight.

I could not get measuring blocks to work on the HVAC module. But Advanced Measuring blocks works. I was running 10 to 14 Bar at 1500 rpm, fast cabin air speed, full cool setting.

And it was labeled "refrigerant pressure".
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Old April 1st, 2010, 21:09   #23
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does anyone have the VCDS scan tool in the boston area, it would be great to know if it is in fact low refrigerant before going to get it recharged. Also, does anyone know if you can do the recharge yourself? or is it a dealer/shop only thing?
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Old April 2nd, 2010, 04:23   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socrates42
does anyone have the VCDS scan tool in the boston area, it would be great to know if it is in fact low refrigerant before going to get it recharged. Also, does anyone know if you can do the recharge yourself? or is it a dealer/shop only thing?
Personally, I think the only PROPER way to charge a modern automotive system is to evacuate whatever is in there, pull a deep vacuum on the system for a minimum of an hour, and recharge with the full amount on the underhood label. "Topping up" is a guessing game at best, given the nature of the system with regards to variation of pressures during operation which is normal.

I know there are plenty of people that use the crappy little tap-can thingies, and I have pity on them.

But if the system has lost charge anyways, it has a leak that needs to be found and remedied.
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Old April 2nd, 2010, 06:07   #25
DanG144
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I agree with oilhammer.

There have been folks on here who have overpressurized their systems by going solid, lifting relief valves, blowing pressure transmitters. And they actually came off lucky. If the relief valve fails, compressors can blow apart causing serious damage.

This is too likely to happen with a single gauge (or no gauge) cheapie filling rig.

Even with a good set of dual gauges (if you do not evacuate the system), you do not know when you have the proper amount of refrigerant in the system, and can still end up overfilled. With the high pressure gauge you can stop before you get abnormal pressures, but having too much freon in the sytem for the amount of oil is sure death for a compressor. It will work great for a while.

But, looking at your system operaton with VCDS before taking it in for maintenance would not hurt anything.
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Old April 2nd, 2010, 06:10   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilhammer
Personally, I think the only PROPER way to charge a modern automotive system is to evacuate whatever is in there, pull a deep vacuum on the system for a minimum of an hour, and recharge with the full amount on the underhood label.
+1
One of by best loading dock finds when I was a student at Cornell was an old laboratory vacuum pump, basically a 1970s version of this. That thing could pull a vacuum down to .0005 mm hg . It allowed me to do much of the AC work myself at home when a rock nicked the condenser open on my '98 Jetta. As I learned along the way, a deep vacuum is a must if the system has been exposed to the environment (i.e. moisture)
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Old April 2nd, 2010, 21:00   #27
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+2, 100% Agree.
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Old April 4th, 2010, 15:19   #28
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OK- New compressor installed and I took a shot at recharging my self. I borrowed a good set of the dual gauges and I have a small vacuum pump so I drew a vacuum the best that I could, which was about 15 in/hg. I think you are supposed to go more than that but my pump is probably not up to it. I then put in 1 small can of R-134. I could only get the pressure up to 2.5 bar (70 degrees ambient). It stayed there and I did get cold air from the system. Both fans working!

The new compressor was pre-oiled, you could see quite a bit in one of the ports once I took off the protective cover. I had the PAG oil but didn't add any because none came out when I took the old compressor off.

Question is, should I add a second can to get the pressure up to where it was before which was 3.5 bar at 45 degree ambient?

I really wanted to get this sorted out this weekend since no shops were open.
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Old April 4th, 2010, 18:54   #29
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Somewhere under hood should be sticker where says how much freon car takes. Add same amount and you should be good.
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Old April 5th, 2010, 06:30   #30
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Thanks, jetta 97. It was right there in front of me. 525g which is about 18 oz. and the can I put in was only 12 oz.
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