The Worst Oil Change Ive Ever Done

Does anyone have access to the VW maintenance info for a car with the new engine? it might specify a VW-specific part number for the filter removal.

What oil is recommended?

^^^ DubStrom, I would recommend jack stands or ramps.
cinder blocks NO!
Other than that just take your time and do it yourself safely.
See no reason to take the TDI back to the dealer for anything but warranty.

Asmerrill said:

What oil is recommended?

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Well the requirements are 5w30/5w40 meeting VW 507.00 spec.

If you want a good look at the oil filter idparts did a video review that shows the location.

http://youtu.be/g1SwwbJ-f-8

Imo cinder blocks bad idea. Get jack stands that are meant for use on pinch welds.

Thank you no-blue-screen.
Just don't want to see dubStrom trapped under his dub.

Just pulled up the factory maintenance procedure for the oil filter.

(paraphrasing)

1) Remove noise insulation cover bottom
2) Disconnect electrical connector for coolant pump
3) unclip alternator wire and more toward rear of car
4) remove oil drain plug in cap, drain engine oil
5) remove oil filter cap
6) remove oil filter
7) insert new o-ring for oil filter cap drain plug, tighten to 5nm
8) insert new o-ring in filter cap & install new filter
9) tighten cap to 25nm
10) re-clip lines

Thanks for the paraphrased procedure Cevans. Written down like that, it appears to be easier than reality. Maybe someone that has done it can comment on their actual experience.

Best of luck dubStorm and be well.

You know that dealers will charge MORE eventually for such a long silly process. Maybe not now but the price will escalate quietly. Most TDI owners will never know how ridiculous this process is to do a simple procedure. I honestly think that the average engineer thinks very little about car maintenance when building cars in general. Looks like the way it is is the way it is. Just get ready to pay a bit more...it will be interesting to see how alternator wires and coolant electrical connectors survive after Being hooked and unhooked many times over the life of a car. Just sayin.

dubStrom said:

I left the floor jack under there, so no danger of getting trapped or injured. It's a 5 ton jack. But I've used cinder blocks confidently for many heavy loads with no issues whatsoever. They are extremely strong, depending on how you load them.

I've never had one break.(yet) I'll continue to use them, with a back up. It was excellent, and the car was 100% level! Perfect solution until I get the grease pit done.

By the way Cevans... Thanks for the paraphrased procedure. Written down like that, it appears to be easier than reality. Maybe someone that has done it can comment on their actual experience.

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Just for anyone else reading this. (DubStrom seems set on his solution.) Jack stands are inexpensive and are the right tool for this job. Cinder blocks (or concrete blocks) are not. They are brittle, and meant to be part of a structure, not as independant tools. Past luck does not predict future luck. Especially if anyone drops a block, or hits with a wrench or other object. Block will also not react well to rapid drop of the car (such as if too much jack release at once).

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/jack-stands.html

spring $8 for the rubber pads if you are worried about the surface included on the car for this purpose. any of these are cheaper than an emergency room visit, or funeral.

use of a jack to hold the car is also a pretty big no no.

I am not freaking out, but want to be clear that this sets off alarm bells.

jack stands are the right way to hold a car higher than it sits on the suspension.

Jacks are designed to lift a car high enough to get the jack stands in position

ramps are also a good way if you do not need to get the wheels off.

The process you are describing is dangerous, and anyone reading should understand so.

The paraphrased procedure is pretty much my procedure. The difficulty comes from the hoses and the lack of space. Pulling them aside, as suggested in the paraphrasing is exactly what I did.

njiska said:

The paraphrased procedure is pretty much my procedure. The difficulty comes from the hoses and the lack of space. Pulling them aside, as suggested in the paraphrasing is exactly what I did.

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Having extra space was useful even for my 2014 JSW oil change. I have always just driven it up on ramps on a slope so that the vehicle was level. But that is no fun when it's below freezing out. This is why I blocked the car up in the garage on a level surface.

It will be worse with the new engine. Unfortunately, the Pella vacuum oil removal trick won't help with this oil filter. Blocking the car up with same height at all four wheels will help a great deal. The car was 100% level, with lots of room under there to maneuver.

Blocking the car up won't do a damn thing to affect the space issue. The problem is with space in the bottom of the engine bay, not ground clearance. The filter is not seated at the very bottom of the engine, but about 4-5" up from the bottom. Below the filter, but between the engine and the fan are a series of hoses that need to be moved to the side to access the filter cover. Even with them pulled to the side, the space between them and the engine is very tight and hard to fit the cap through.

njiska said:

Blocking the car up won't do a damn thing to affect the space issue. The problem is with space in the bottom of the engine bay, not ground clearance. The filter is not seated at the very bottom of the engine, but about 4-5" up from the bottom. Below the filter, but between the engine and the fan are a series of hoses that need to be moved to the side to access the filter cover. Even with them pulled to the side, the space between them and the engine is very tight and hard to fit the cap through.

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I don't know what you mean. How can you even get to it if you do not lift the car off the ground? You need room to reach up in there, don't you? A garage lift would be ideal, but no one has this at home. Just removing the engine cover underneath there is impossible without getting it up off the ground.

Yes, you have to lift it. I had mine on ramps, but a jack and stand work five if you can fit them. That should never have been in question. You always lift a car if you're working under it.

njiska said:

Yes, you have to lift it. I had mine on ramps, but a jack and stand work five if you can fit them. That should never have been in question. You always lift a car if you're working under it.

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I don't lift my wife's CRV when I change the oil. Same goes for the Toyota. You can reach under Tiguan and Touareg for just an oil change. I've changed oil in older TDIs without lifting the car too. Newer VW sedans/wagons are just lower to the ground (partly for fuel efficiency), and those engine covers are wider and seem a little deeper too.

I agree ramps are a good way to deal with it. I have a steep driveway down to the road, so it works great with 8ft ramps. Just too darned cold out there to do that right now! Jack stands are surely the safest and best alternative in the garage.

Doesn't really matter, the car is due for a tire rotation at the same time anyways, so it is ALL up in the air.

I guess I look at this development as a possible deal breaker for me. As my 03 5 speed approaches 400k I am looking at my options for a new car. I have used a Pella for top side oil changes since I bought my car in '05 and have done most of my maintenance. My wife of 28 years has declared next car has to be an automatic and between the questionable DSG and this oil change fiasco (which I would be doing every 3-4 months) the mk 7 is quickly losing it's appeal. Looking at Golf gasser and the Mazda 3 hatch as possible replacements.

dubStrom said:

I'm frightened now

What a bunch of safety freaks.

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If you flipped the car over so you wouldn't have to use cinder blocks, someone would be telling you to wear a safety harness . I see no problem with you taking responsibility for your own safety. Self responsibility must be a thing of the past. I must say, though, that the QuickJack looks pretty sweet, but the site doesn't show pricing info.

If the thread ever gets back on topic, we'll see how others deal with this filter as more MKVII newbies attempt their first oil change.

I've worked around car repair shops professionally and know the basics quite well. You must use quality jack stands to ensure that the car will not fall on whoever is working under it. Granted I used hydraulic lifts but very few people have them in their own garage.

I understand that you are taking responsibility for using cinder blocks. But they simply are not the way they were intended to be used.

I've read and heard stories of folks who sound very much like you who've used them to support their cars all their lives. Well one day it cracked and crumbled. The lucky ones ended up taking a trip to the hospital. The not so lucky ones ended up paralyzed or pushing up daisies.

A quick search on Google will show plenty of folks also saying "DON'T USE THEM".
https://www.google.com/search?q=cinder+blocks+as+jackstands

This site gives a great run down of how to safely raise the car up
http://www.econofix.com/jacks.html

Please don't use cinder or concrete blocks when working under a car. Use approved methods such as properly placed (and rated) jack stands.

Such improvised shoring has been used (usually successfully!)for decades, but sometimes with deadly results. Use your own good judgment, but I will not get under a car when it is on cinder blocks or concrete blocks.

Bill

Harbor freight has a pair for $20 on sale this weekend.
for $40.00 you can have one for each corner.
Lighter than a block and height is adjustable.
Just jack up a little and lift the handle and the lift drops an you can pull it right out.
B block is heavy, can crack easily and be damages easily just by putting it down in concrete too hard. Just a poor choice to save a little money. Plus the darned things are a hazard because the weigh so much. You can hurt yourself moving them around.
BUT if you insist on using them then be happy and safe. Having been in the Cement Business for a number of years and testing concrete things I can tell you that they fail suddenly and completely with no warning. Masonry is joined with a specially weakened mortar to allow some compliance when "gluing" blocks together since if the mortar is too stiff minor shifting of the earth will cause the wall to fail.
Your choice.

I think you have all made your points about cinder blocks quite clear. Can we move on to more interesting topics?

so what brand of cinder blocks works best?

Oh Great! Now we will have cinder block wars.

That kind of cinder block is worthless, These are the cinder block that you should use.

I can never get ahold of that cinder block supplier, so I don't use them anymore.

dubStrom said:

This thread needs to be deleted, or perhaps all but the OP for heavens sake!

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I agree....I can remove my post about it. This otherwise has the potential to be a very good source of information regarding EA288 oil changes.

Let's just get back on track, shall we? I'll try to go through and clean it up when I have time (and desire - I'm not a stall mucker).