seized ac compressor R&R?

Is it easy to Remove and Replace AC compressor on a
B4? Compressor seized and burned off the belt.

Are there any how-tos? Even the Bentley I have only has
(vague) instructions for gas engines.

-Almus

Not terribly tough. Get the system evacuated, get new o-rings for reassembly. Got to take off the serp belt (maybe V-belt too, don't remember and Bentley's doesn't mention it). Two bolts hold it in, (33ftlbs) and they should be loosened and "knock back threaded sleeve from compressor". I don't recall that, but it must be obvious since I did take mine off a couple of times.

Given that the compressor is seized, I guess I could drive it
short distance to an AC shop to have them evacuate it.
With no accessories, no alternator. (not sure what else is
powered by that belt)

Is there any means to determine if I have any need to evacuate it?
(ie maybe refrig already leaked out.) Is there a pressure port?
Should I have the system flushed prior to plumbing in the rebuilt
compressor?

-Almus

When my serp belt broke, because of a seized AC, I drove it 50 miles across the desert to Tehachapi to get it fixed. AC, Alternator. Can't think of anything else. Water pump and ps is the V-belt.

You should be able to hook up a pressure gauge on one of the coolant inlets - under the hood near the passenger area. A friend probably has one, since they sometimes come with the R34a.

i have the same problem, i think. mine is making a terrible metal to metal grinding noise. its the clutch on the pulley that went bad. can that be changed/fixed or do i need a new compressor? i got prices from autohause az for $340 and advance auto parts for around $270. i think the dealer is around $600, compressor only. any advice? i'm confident to change the compressor but i can't do the freon. will an ac shop work with me if i swap the parts? how did you make out with yours? thanks, rune

RuneTDI said:

i have the same problem, i think. mine is making a terrible metal to metal grinding noise. its the clutch on the pulley that went bad. can that be changed/fixed or do i need a new compressor? i got prices from autohause az for $340 and advance auto parts for around $270. i think the dealer is around $600, compressor only. any advice? i'm confident to change the compressor but i can't do the freon. will an ac shop work with me if i swap the parts? how did you make out with yours? thanks, rune

Click to expand...

I got a rebuilt compressor from ACkits.com
plus a new drier. I brought the car to an independent
ac shop and had them suck the old refrig out (20.00)
I pulled the compressor and drier out
(it is up under front rt fender)

There is a cheaper vendor on ebay that claims
NEW not rebuilt for ~185.00. Wish I had found
that first.

I have NOT yet installed it as I am waiting for
the dryer. Plus I am doing a bunch of other
stuff to the car and the new compressor would
be in the way.

ackits.com has a forum for help. I have been
posting there.

refrigerant install is easy. What (seems to me) difficult is cleaning/
"flushing" out the system. If your compressor
self destructed it may have contaminated
your system with crap that may lodge in your new compressor
and destroy it. Most of this crap is supposed to settle in
your dryer.

I have decided that This car is my hobby car and I am
going to try and do almost everything diy. They sell flushing
stuff at autozone as well as compressor oil, leak kits
I probably will try to do it myself.

My plan is to band-saw my dryer in half when I get the new
one. I will look to see how much crud is in there. If it is
clean I may just opt to fill the system and go.

The new dryer comes sealed(plugged) and you should only unplug
if when you install to preserve the dessicant.


-A

RuneTDI said:

i have the same problem, i think. mine is making a terrible metal to metal grinding noise. its the clutch on the pulley that went bad. can that be changed/fixed or do i need a new compressor? i got prices from autohause az for $340 and advance auto parts for around $270. i think the dealer is around $600, compressor only. any advice? i'm confident to change the compressor but i can't do the freon. will an ac shop work with me if i swap the parts? how did you make out with yours? thanks, rune

Click to expand...

You have 177K on the compressor, right? If it goes, the whole system needs to be cleaned out to get all the pieces of compressor that are no longer doing their job.

You can replace the clutch/pulley, but might as well get the whole thing. Summer's coming, you'll want to use it, and it's easier to swap out now than after a catastrophic failure that leaves you in the middle of Texas or some such place in 100 degree 100% humidity weather.

No comment on R&R of AC system. I paid a local shop to do this for me. Worth every penny. They have all the tools and equipment to do it right, and gave me a great price for labor/freon/O rings.

I purchased my replacement parts from this vendor. Great product with no issues.

http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Val-A-C-Compressor-Discount-Parts_VW-A-C-Compressor_W0QQ_fsubZ6452390QQ_sidZ32110334QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322

When you pull the ac lines off of the pump and oily, greenish looking stuff comes out you're safe. If gray metallic looking stuff comes out the system needs to be flushed.

You might find it easier to get front cross member out of the way to remove the a/c compressor.

Carefull it holds in the front of the motor.

G60ING said:

You might find it easier to get front cross member out of the way to remove the a/c compressor.

Carefull it holds in the front of the motor.

Click to expand...

Hmmm I just yanked the alternator and
after that the compressor was easy.

I haven't reinstalled everything yet because
I am awaiting delivery of new ccv breather and
oil cooler seals---I like having as much out as
possible in order to have clear view and access to stuff.

I took the band saw to the dryer element
and cut it in half.
There is greyish discoloration inside. Not sure
what that means. It is my understanding that
the dryer catches most of the crap that is inside
the unit.

look at post #9 for what you found in the drier. according to him, you need it flushed. i've researched a few ebayers and will buy from the same guy as paramedik- great prices and an actual phone number with people to help you with tech. they recommend a new drier and expansion valve- cheap-(anyone ever change this?) with a new compressor. i'll do the install and then take it to the local shop for a flush and fill of freon-$120. so for around $250 in parts and $120 for the freon flush-n-fill, hopefully it will work out. thats better than the few $1000 estimates i got from some of the shops around here.
almus- any progress?

RuneTDI said:

... they recommend a new drier and expansion valve- cheap-(anyone ever change this?) ......

Click to expand...

Even I can do this. Neither was a big deal - it was the getting it down to drain and the refill afterwards that was the issue. Need good new o-rings and some oil. I don't recall any non-obvious issues.

From the AC experts on ACkits.com forum

"A black or gray residue that wipes off is normal and will be found on the inside of the entire system. This is an indicator (residues) of oil break down that occurs over time due to the extreme heat and pressures. That is why it is advantageous to flush and remove all the old oil (tired and contaminated) and ..."


I flushed my components. ( Everything but evaporator;
this is typical of flush jobs) I did it till flush-fluid
was clear and clean. There were no real compressor chunks.
It was easy. I used oil based ac flush that I bought at the
auto parts store. Followed directions. Flushed several
times filtering each time with coffee filter. I installed
a new drier and expansion valve. The drier valve is now
partially installed; just need to unscrew the sealer plugs
and screw in the lines with new orings.
I will wait till everything is installed and I am about to
evacuate system before I do that to protect
the dessicant. I have a vacuum pump and gauges.

I got a rebuilt pump from ackits.com as well.
I will drain the oil from it and re-inject the
appropriate oil under vacuum.


R&R of drier and exp valve were easy; everything came
with appropriate o-rings. If you are going to install
your own components but plan on bringing
stuff to a ac shop DON'T unseal or hook up the drier
Let the shop do it just prior to evacuation. A humid
day will snuff your drier.

RuneTDI said:

look at post #9 for what you found in the drier. according to him, you need it flushed. i've researched a few ebayers and will buy from the same guy as paramedik- great prices and an actual phone number with people to help you with tech. they recommend a new drier and expansion valve- cheap-(anyone ever change this?) with a new compressor. i'll do the install and then take it to the local shop for a flush and fill of freon-$120. so for around $250 in parts and $120 for the freon flush-n-fill, hopefully it will work out. thats better than the few $1000 estimates i got from some of the shops around here.
almus- any progress?

Click to expand...

where is the drier? does it come out easy? special tools? i would have to drive about 5 miles to the shop. should i just cover the lines to the drier and let them install it or what? thanks, rune

RuneTDI said:

where is the drier? does it come out easy? special tools? i would have to drive about 5 miles to the shop. should i just cover the lines to the drier and let them install it or what? thanks, rune

Click to expand...

It comes out easy. It is under the frontmost rt fender. It is
aluminum about the size of beer can. Unscrew the hoses.
Then you have to reach up in there with some sort of stubby
screw driver or screw-driver-bit-on-a-ratchet to undo
the screws holding it in. The hose
from the condenser enters it and the hose to the
evap-valve exits it.

I had the car jacked up and I had to be on my back.

The replacement comes with plugs screwed in it to seal it.

If you live in Arizona or some other dry climate you
probably can get away with opening/installing it.

Well I finally buttoned up the passat and pumped it down.
pre-lubed o-rings with vac oil.
I had one major leak which I immediately found. Tightened her
up and pumped her down to deep space vacuum twice.
Second time vacuum didn't creep up at all for over
an hour.


My observations on the whole process:

Not too bad. The fundamentals of the
ac vacuum gauge set were a bit mystifying.
I never found a diagram depicting exactly
the logic of the valves. I understand them
now but I had to read several articles
before it became clear.

I used a side-can tap --- can't say I understand
the appeal. First can of 134a I tapped leaked
all over the place. After trying to be a good
do-bee and have the original residual refrig sucked
out at a station, I felt pretty stupid
using a can-tap that must have squirted out
30% of its contents on my glove covered hand---
a big disappointment.

I went back to a top mounted refrig filler that
I had for subsequent cans or refrig.

Car is blowing cold, but sitting still---
I still need to replace struts, brakes, shocks.....

I am going to fix the car up real nice then hand
it over to my wife who will then proceed to
beat the snot out of it.

should have my new parts by thursday. paid $228 for new compressor, drier, expansion valve and oil, shipped. user id on ebay is rv_m26. i'll post back later.

>should have my new parts by thursday. paid $228 for new compressor

Excellent deal. Especially on new compressor.
I wish I had found this before I ordered. I
received all my stuff from ackits.com.
I will keep them in mind when/if I have other
problems.


When I finally hooked everything up --it DID'NT WORK!!
It took me about two hours to finally trace the problem
to a blown 20A fuse in the fan controller.
Be forewarned if you have problems that you should
look there. Not sure when the fuse blew. I do know that
last year wife paid an independent shop to fix ac.
Their attempt was to replace the dash switch.
Their "fix" was nothing but a shot in the dark--
it didn't solve anything. Wife drove the car with no ac
till the compressor finally seized.
I went back and re-tested
that switch when the ac didn't work
this past weekend. (it is a b**ch to get at).

Pressures?

Does anyone know the correct pressures for a 2003 Jetta TDI?

Has anyone used a used compressor before? Mine is going out too. However, how do I tell if the sound is coming from the water pump or the compressor? BTW, I had a new tb kit and water pump put in feb 2008.

Waterpumps can dies an early death if the PS/wp belt was over tighten. Take the belt off the wp and check for slop in the bearings.

Typically I like my PS belt loose enough so that it almost slips when wet out. It take 1-2 adjustments to get this tight because new belts stretch.

The shop I went to only wants to use their parts....total $1300 for the job. Anyway to just by pass the ac compressor and take out the AC all together?

If you take the compressor out, I believe you can put in a shorter belt to run the alternator. You can't with the compressor in place, since it is in the way (discovered on the side of a road in tehatchapi in the summer).

I asked the shop and they looked into the opition, but they said no

The AC compressor has to be out of the way. That means something has to be done to take it's place in the AC line, or you give up that option unless you replace everything in the area. That is why I spend many $hundreds replacing a compressor in sed Tehatchapi that summer. Didn't get the AC working at the time, but did replace the compressor with a rebuild to get us home. Got the AC working later......

It is an option, but maybe not a viable one.