3 "problems": torque converter, transmission shifting, lock sensors

just-a-girl

Member
Joined
May 15, 2009
Location
Northern California
TDI
2001 Golf
I have three intermittent problems on my 2001 Golf with 172K miles.
The oldest problem is rough or clunky shifting (automatic transmission). When I first bought the car, it only "clunked" when cold and shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Over the years, it has started clunking...intermittently...in all gears, including the torque converter lockup in overdrive recently. Some times the clunk is hard enough to feel like someone has hit me from the rear, but thankfully it is usually just a gentle thump. I may make a full trip without it shifting badly, or it may be rough for most of a trip, but it never shifts roughly all the time.
The second problem is that intermittently (well, it happened about a couple of years ago, and then again a couple of weeks ago) the torque converter lockup in overdrive does not engage. While driving up a steep grade, behind slow traffic, the transmission down shifted. Once over the grade, the transmission shifted back into overdrive, but the torque converter lockup did not re-engage. When the car was finally turned off and restarted, the problem did not recur and the car drove normally. I asked the dealer to service the transmission after this event. They said they thought it was a "fluke".
I was told that no "codes" were recorded for the event. The little "box" around the gear indicator on the dash has never "blinked". By the way, servicing the transmission did not affect the rough shifting at all.
The third problem is relatively new. For the last month or so, the car has been relocking itself. When the car has been locked and then opened either with the key button or with the key in the lock, and the driver's door opened, the car intermittently relocks...usually while I'm in the car but before I've had a chance to start it, and occasionally before I've even gotten the door closed. If I don't use the key button to unlock it (the interior unlock botton on the door doesn't work at that point) again before starting the car, the alarm goes off. As far as I can tell, this happens when the driver's door is the only door opened; if the passenger or back doors are also opened, the car does not relock. SOMETIMES, the car does not relock when only the driver's door is opened. But when it DOES relock, as far as I can remember it has been after only the driver's door was opened.
I am currently having my car serviced by an independent mechanic who works only on German cars. He said he experienced the rough shifting I mentioned while he was test driving the car, and he researched it in VW's databases. He said VW has known about the problem but has not identified it beyond saying it is an electrical problem and they never issued a recall. I have not reported the recent torque converter problem to him yet. He has indicated in the past that the shifting problem will probably only be resolved by replacing the transmission when it becomes too problematic for me. He thought any torque converter "problem" would have stored a code or started the gear indicator "box" to flash. The MAF was replaced by the dealership at around 30K miles under a recall. When the MAF was acting up, the transmission would drop out of overdrive easily, but the torque converter would re-lockup when the engine wasn't under load (i.e. on a grade), so that was different from what has happened on the two occasions when the torque converter has given me problems in the last year.
I've asked the mechanic about the lock/alarm problem and he suggested resetting the alarm computer and cleaning a sensor, but at his price I wanted to think about it. I could just get used to opening a back door each time I unlock the car. But the mechanic suggested that the problem would get worse and I'd eventually get locked out...or in!
The nearest dealership is now 200 miles away, and I don't have a lot of faith in them, anyway. I hoped someone here could clue me in as to whether these are common problems, potentially critical problems, or what. I hope to drive this car to at least 250K, and have recently spent quite a bit on a new timing belt upgrade, serpentine belt/tensioner, brakes, tires, etc. I don't want to waste the money I've already invested, but I don't have a lot to spend on non-critical repairs.
 

Lee_Taylor

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2004
Location
Kent, England
TDI
Audi A3 1.4 COD
I'm afraid your mechanic is correct the VW auto transmission on that car is pretty awful. I would say you have done well to make it this far. Do a search and you will find plenty of horror stories. Most people would recommend swapping it for a manual transmission. They can be exchanged for refurbished auto units but it is expensive. Have you checked the trusted mechanics list for someone near to you? You really need someone with access to VCDS (Vag-Com) to check for stored error codes relating to the transmission and also the alarm. I suspect the alarm problem is relatively simple to cure but some one on the list below may be better able to advise you...

California

Autowerkstat
463 Blossom Hill Rd
San Jose, CA 95123
(408) 224-1952 Contact: Chris
www.autowerkstat.com

Bugformance of San Jose Inc
31 S Capitol Ave
San Jose, CA 95127
(408) 926-8830 Contact: Charles
www.bugformance.com

EF1 Motorsports
2675 Dawson Street
Signal Hill, CA 90755
(562) 424-3378 Ask for Fabrizio
www.ef1motorsports.net/

European Auto Repair
1928 High Street
Alameda, CA 94501
(510) 521-2066

Wild Rose Motors Ltd - Harvieux (Leonard Harview)

13253 Meyer Rd.
Whittier, CA 90605
http://www.vwtdionly.com/
(562) 946-9000 local
(800) 341-1012 toll free
wrmltd@pacbell.net


Top Shop Automotive
177 S Patterson Ave
Santa Barbara, CA 93111
(805) 964-6554

Streetwerke
292 Lambert Ave.
Palo Alto, CA 94306
(650) 739-0820 Contact: Darren
www.streetwerke.com

Tomas Sport Tuning
1035 Broadway Ave
San Pablo, CA 94806
(510) 235-2350 Contact: Tim
www.tomassporttuning.com

Van-Café
1823 Soquel Ave.
Santa Cruz, Ca 95062
(831) 426-1244 (Get a quote from Peter, the owner, for $456 for a full TB change)

VW Specialties
17682 Gothard Street
Huntington Beach, CA 92647
(714) 848-3766
www.vwspecialties.com

Scott Russell - BioChoppers
Mobile Diesel Repair -will travel to you-
Serving: Southern California
Timing Belts and all general maintenance
562)201-5868
biochoppers@yahoo.com

Thousand Oaks Precision Auto Repair Service

50 N Skyline Dr Ste 6,
Thousand Oaks, CA 91362-5998
805-496-9421
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.p...&postcount=711
 

just-a-girl

Member
Joined
May 15, 2009
Location
Northern California
TDI
2001 Golf
Thanks for your input. If I replaced the transmission, it would have to be another automatic...I'm just not shifty enough. Is the torque converter component an integral part of the transmission or a separate component?

I don't know if the the guy I'm going to has access to Vag-Com (I'll ask), but he does check for codes . It doesn't make a lot of difference though, because the closest "trusted" mechanics on your list are a good 5 to 6 hour drive from me.
 

Lee_Taylor

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2004
Location
Kent, England
TDI
Audi A3 1.4 COD

fruitcakesa

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 18, 2007
Location
Vermont
TDI
04 jetta 5 spd wagon
I looked into a torque converter replacement in my 02 Jetta and found used TC for $250 and a new one for $800. My local indy said it is a straightforward replacement but it does entail trans removal so I am guessing $500+ for labor.
I did not do the TC and am looking for a 5 speed manual.
 

Anomie

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Location
San Diego
TDI
09 Jetta DSG
The replies thus far have answered your transmission concerns as well or better than I could have, but as to your locking issue: it's the driver door lock module. These are a known point of failure and their faults were finally corrected in the 2003+ revision IIRC.

Inside the door lock module you have 4 microswitch "sensors", and one of them handles door open/closed (versus having the switch mounted in the door frame). The problem can be one of three with any/all of the switches: the switch itself can fail, the plastic "rivet" attachment method has failed or stretched to a point where the switch is no longer operable, or the solder joints for the switch wiring are broken. When the switch becomes inoperative, the body module does not recognize the fact that you opened the door, assumes you haven't done so within the 60 second unlock window, and in due diligence locks the car for you. This is why if you open the rear passenger door, this doesn't happen.

Depending on your level of involvement, this can be as simple as a large check to your favorite mechanic, or a weekend with your door disassembled in your garage and the DLM on your work bench with a soldering iron in hand.
 

CoolAirVw

Vendor
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Location
Kansas City Missouri
TDI
Jetta
Simple torque converter replacement will not always fix Torque converter clutch problem. Why???

Because the pressure that applies the clutch comes from the trans. Poor pressure output from the pump, worn vavle body or worn stator bushings or other things can cause TCC problems.

With regards to the harsh shifting, someone needs to look at it who understands the pressure control functions, and the pressure drop that the computer commands on each shift.

Thumping can be movement of the engine/trans assembly due to worn/broken mounts.

When you said you traveled over a hill and it came out of overdrive and the TCC didn't reapply when you got over the hill this sounds like the behaviour of a 1192 (P0740) code. But you said no codes were triggered by this event, but I dont buy it.

End result is... your at the mercy of the uneducated, unknowing, untrained. Your probably gonna end up with a new transmission, because you wont be able to find anyone qualified to fix it, and you probably need one anyway.
 

Anomie

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Location
San Diego
TDI
09 Jetta DSG
CoolAirVw said:
When you said you traveled over a hill and it came out of overdrive and the TCC didn't reapply when you got over the hill this sounds like the behaviour of a 1192 (P0740) code. But you said no codes were triggered by this event, but I dont buy it.
Perhaps P0740 is pending?
 

Anomie

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Location
San Diego
TDI
09 Jetta DSG
CoolAirVw said:
Yes, and perhaps when they scan the engine computer, the crappy generic scanner doesn't even access the 01192 code that is in the ttrans computer. (yes I know sometimes it does)
The problem is ONLY sometimes. Your guess is as good as mine, but I would say the pump and valve body are worn and internally leaking too much. Couple that with bushing issues and bam.

I hear there's a pressure calibration screw or nut... something like that. I think I read it on the vortex... If you give this ratcheting one-way adjusting screw a few "clicks" a good deal of these kinds of problems go away. I'm assuming the theory behind this is the adjusting screw controls the max line pressure and upping it a bit overcomes the internal leaks in the valve body and elsewhere.
 

CoolAirVw

Vendor
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Location
Kansas City Missouri
TDI
Jetta
Anomie said:
I hear there's a pressure calibration screw or nut... something like that. I think I read it on the vortex... If you give this ratcheting one-way adjusting screw a few "clicks" a good deal of these kinds of problems go away. I'm assuming the theory behind this is the adjusting screw controls the max line pressure and upping it a bit overcomes the internal leaks in the valve body and elsewhere.
Thats the Kerma mod.. Read more about it in the "How-to section".

It does raise pressure, but at the expense of cooler flow. (in extreme circumstances)
 

Anomie

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Location
San Diego
TDI
09 Jetta DSG
CoolAirVw said:
Thats the Kerma mod.. Read more about it in the "How-to section".

It does raise pressure, but at the expense of cooler flow. (in extreme circumstances)
Sounds like an excuse to install an external trans cooler to me :rolleyes:
 

CoolAirVw

Vendor
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Location
Kansas City Missouri
TDI
Jetta
When the Pressure regulator valve moves too far in its bore (to the high pressure position) it cuts off the pressure that fills the converter (on tcc off side). This will sometimes make the TCC come when it isn't supposed to, lugging the motor, making a "trailer hitching" sensation or even killing the motor at a stop. During these events cooler flow is reduced or shut off completely. Understand that cooler flow returns cool oil to the trans to lubricate the trans. This is oil pressure to lube planets, bushings and bearings, just like engine oil pressure. Reduced cooler flow will reduce the planetary gears to chunks.
 

Curious Chris

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 11, 2001
Location
Pineview GA
TDI
Jetta Wagon 2003 RIP Rockford IL
Change to a 5 speed manual

just-a-girl said:
Thanks for your input. If I replaced the transmission, it would have to be another automatic...I'm just not shifty enough.
With the Dual Mass Flywheel these cars come with they are far and away the easiest manual transmission to use. You practice on the clutch by letting the clutch out without giving it any pedal: the engine management system is locked onto maintaining 903 rpm, so by slowly letting out the pedal you learn how to do it slow enough to not kill the engine.

I taught all my children how to drive a stick and the TDI was far and away the easiest.
 

bryanbryan89x

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2007
Location
Michigan
TDI
2002 Jetta Wagon 5 Speed - 380k MI
IDK if the ALH TDI engine is in fact the best to learn on. I have now heard of a couple of instances where people were taught how to drive a stick on an ALH, and they gave it a couple of hard stall outs, and ended up braking the engine block where the right side motor mount bolts to..

Curious Chris said:
With the Dual Mass Flywheel these cars come with they are far and away the easiest manual transmission to use. You practice on the clutch by letting the clutch out without giving it any pedal: the engine management system is locked onto maintaining 903 rpm, so by slowly letting out the pedal you learn how to do it slow enough to not kill the engine.

I taught all my children how to drive a stick and the TDI was far and away the easiest.
 
Top