p0544 Sensor 1 for exhaust temp bank 1 (G235)

Mrrogers1

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Used a generic scan tool last night had two codes. 2544 which is for the EGT sensor I replaced...not sure why it hadn't cleared on its own. My friend cleared the code. The other code is 2463 which is for excessive soot. We started the car and let it run for a minute and 2544 didn't come back on but 2463 did. Now that the egt sensor code is cleared (at least for now), will the computer allow a regen?
Tomorrow, I have a 1 hour drive to work, and I'd like to take the car to see if it'll regen. Is there a way to tell if the car's doing a regen? It'd be nice if a dashboard light came on during a regen.
When at idle, the fans will be on full blast and you'll notice elevated rpms. Normal idle rpm should be around 830-850 and during regen it will be up over 1000. If your 1hr drive is a straight commute at hwy speeds on cruise control, you may feel a "slight" drop in power when the regen starts, almost like a flutter. Also, if you turn the car off, fans will keep going (sounds like car is going to take off in flight!) and car will smell quite hot and you may be able to feel the heat rolling out from under the car.

A light seems like SUCH an easy win for VW and I can't understand why it's not part of all the vehicles that it applies too. I use a Scangauge II to monitor EGT before and after DPF among other parameters (initially bought for boost gauge function back in 2006 for my last TDI).
 
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Saphauler

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Thanks for the reply.

It's about 3/4 hr back roads at 45mph and 1/4hr at highway speeds.

it's my wife's car, so I don't drive it much, but I have noticed the fan on when the car's shut off.

I found someone in Mass with a VCDS...about 45 min from work. Do you see an issue with making the trip down to have it hooked up? I'm not sure how far you can drive the car with the DPF light on if it decides not to do a regen cycle tomorrow morning. I'll have a 1.5hr drive back home.
 

Mrrogers1

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Thanks for the reply.

It's about 3/4 hr back roads at 45mph and 1/4hr at highway speeds.

it's my wife's car, so I don't drive it much, but I have noticed the fan on when the car's shut off.

I found someone in Mass with a VCDS...about 45 min from work. Do you see an issue with making the trip down to have it hooked up? I'm not sure how far you can drive the car with the DPF light on if it decides not to do a regen cycle tomorrow morning. I'll have a 1.5hr drive back home.
So the DPF emissions CIL light is on, staying on? I would say the drive is well worth it as we can check the soot level with VCDS and get precise details that a generic scanner will never give. IIRC we can force a regen using VCDS as well. I don't know know far you can drive with the actual fault going on but maybe someone who's had it fail/fill up can give us an idea. Mine is still good at 160k and will be removed when it does fail.

*If the fans were on and stayed on when you shut the car down, unless it was a REALLY hot day, the car was definitely doing a regen cycle.
 

Saphauler

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Thanks for the reassurance. I've got the trip lined up for tomorrow night.

Interesting to note. On my way to getting the sensor replaced, I was getting 48mpg with a highway/mountain/back road 5hr driving trip. The drive home wasn't as good because I was maintaining high rev's trying to clear the DPF out (my thought anyways.)
 

Mrrogers1

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Thanks for the reassurance. I've got the trip lined up for tomorrow night.

Interesting to note. On my way to getting the sensor replaced, I was getting 48mpg with a highway/mountain/back road 5hr driving trip. The drive home wasn't as good because I was maintaining high rev's trying to clear the DPF out (my thought anyways.)
Well, high rev's don't always equal high load which is one of the values (from what I understand) that the computer is looking for to kick off the regen. I recommend connecting with the guy and use the VCDS to check all codes stored (auto-scan) then check the DPF in particular and force a regen.
 

Saphauler

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Mrrogers. Appreciate your help with this.

Drove to work and glow plug light still flashing and DPF light on solid. Car's running fine. I stopped periodically during my trip, and I didn't catch it during a regen, so I'm assuming it never did one.
 

Gizzmo_jr

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Regens can be blocked if the Calculated Soot is too high.
Get use of that VCDS and measure block 241.3 and try enable "on the move" or idle regen.
 

Mrrogers1

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Regens can be blocked if the Calculated Soot is too high.
Get use of that VCDS and measure block 241.3 and try enable "on the move" or idle regen.
Thanks for sharing that. Never seen that illustration before.

Mrrogers. Appreciate your help with this.

Drove to work and glow plug light still flashing and DPF light on solid. Car's running fine. I stopped periodically during my trip, and I didn't catch it during a regen, so I'm assuming it never did one.
No problem at all man. Like Gizzmo_jr said, get to the VCDS and see what's going on. You might even think of buying a Ross-tech cable yourself. Hey have a new version that while it only works on a smaller number of vehicles, is much less that the previous versions. I have the one that works on all the cars but it only gets used on Jetta's and Passat's, unfortunately, no Bentleys. :-D








Sent from my SM-T217S using Tapatalk
 

VeeDubTDI

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If you are in that pink stage with all three lights on, a regular regen is not possible. The car should not be driven until a service regeneration can be initiated with the scan tool (VCDS or equivalent).
 

Saphauler

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Thanks guys.

After going through this, I'm considering buying my own VCDS. It wouldn't take more than a few visits to VW to pay for itself. I have an '05 VW, so I think I need the $350 version of the tool.

Looking at the graph, I have the blinking glow plug plus the DPF, but no CIL. Not sure where I fall on the graph. I'm going to print this page and bring this with me tonight.

Is there a thread on the forum that discusses the different phases of the regen process and explains the "on the move" or idle regen? I'd like a better understanding of how all this works to avoid future issues.
 

Mrrogers1

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Thanks guys.

After going through this, I'm considering buying my own VCDS. It wouldn't take more than a few visits to VW to pay for itself. I have an '05 VW, so I think I need the $350 version of the tool.

Looking at the graph, I have the blinking glow plug plus the DPF, but no CIL. Not sure where I fall on the graph. I'm going to print this page and bring this with me tonight.

Is there a thread on the forum that discusses the different phases of the regen process and explains the "on the move" or idle regen? I'd like a better understanding of how all this works to avoid future issues.
Order from Ross-Tech now and don't drive to possibly save $700 (DPF replacement minus Ross-Tech) and you can use the $250 version of the cable/plug. http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/VCuCAN.html
 

VeeDubTDI

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Thanks guys.

After going through this, I'm considering buying my own VCDS. It wouldn't take more than a few visits to VW to pay for itself. I have an '05 VW, so I think I need the $350 version of the tool.

Looking at the graph, I have the blinking glow plug plus the DPF, but no CIL. Not sure where I fall on the graph. I'm going to print this page and bring this with me tonight.

Is there a thread on the forum that discusses the different phases of the regen process and explains the "on the move" or idle regen? I'd like a better understanding of how all this works to avoid future issues.
Here are the first five hits from Google "regeneration site:tdiclub.com"

Gauges: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=360498
Emergency regen: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=334430
How to know: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=345066
Dos and don'ts: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=429842
General: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=343410
 

Gizzmo_jr

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pg65 of Self Study Program 826803 2.0 Liter TDI Common Rail BIN5 ULEV Engine is where that image is. That whole document is wealth of information about how the TDI works in the Mk6.
 

Saphauler

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Good info there. Thanks.

Mostly highway, so I took the risk and drove down to meet the guy. He's going to email me the log file...I'll post it when I get it. I don't remember the exact numbers, but it was something like this:
92,000 miles
90ml particulate filter oil ash volume
50.1 soot load calculated
0g soot load measured
1500km since regen

In the numbers above, why is the soot load measured = 0g? Chris and I were trying to figure it out. We weren't sure if there was a bad sensor reading or something. Also, I don't know if I mentioned that I replaced the EGT sensor 1, but I got the wrong sensor. Mine is 088EJ and the one I got is 088L...not sure if the different sensor would make a difference.

In the end, the soot levels are too high, so it wouldn't do an emergency regen. Since I was a ways from home, I didn't want to trick it into an emergency regen in case there were any issues. I'm getting a VCDS shipped tomorrow, so I can do the emergency regen at home.
 

Gizzmo_jr

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0g for Soot Load Measured, is real-time value and because you were highway driving is why it went down to 0, passive regeneration.
I spent a week watching Calculated&Measured to find out when I had to park the car (waiting for parts, calculated <40g).

50.1 from my reading the max value for calculated, and there's no procedures to get it to initiate a regen besides replacing the DPF now. Failsafe for a plugged DPF and chance of catching fire.
Some have tried anyways to get it go down, and done a 'work around'

There are companies who will service DPFs, since replacement new is so expensive. Or checkout ForSale section, off-roader's take them off.
 

Saphauler

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Applicable portion of log file below. I thought somewhere in the VCDS we found when the last regen occurred.


1 Fault Found:
009315 - Diesel Particle Filter
P2463 - 000 - Excessive Soot Accumulation - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 158943 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.05.11
Time: 17:59:51
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Mileage: 1690 km
0.0
50.1
Pressure: 0 mbar
milliliters: 90 ml
Readiness: 1 1 0 0 1
 

lag_lag_bye...

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I'm glad I could help you pull the codes. Good Luck with everything. Like we discussed, perhaps the calculated value is being thrown off because of the incorrect EGT sensor being installed. Does anyone else have an opinion about this?
 

paperthin

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Awesome Thread

My car just had the P2020, P0544 and a blinking light. I just bought VCDS but I didn't have time to fix this anyway and I need the car to drive at least a 100kms a day. I decided to drop at dealer, get a rental and continue with work. Normally though I would attack this sort of this with the great help and knowledge that was put into this thread. Kudos to you all!

For additional information for others....the sensor is $400 here in canada it appears. I briefly called around and no luck with a better price and would not risk an aftermarket. My jaw did drop when I heard that. Then of course there is another 3hrs of labor to fix it. I have to swallow this one because I didn't have the time or the special tool to tackle it. Oddly the dealer told me he thinks i could drive for another week before fixing it.
 
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Saphauler

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I kind of hijacked this thread a bit talking about the DPF issues, so I jumped onto an applicable thread that talks about it and doing the emergency regen.

iD Parts carries the 088L for $150 and the 088EJ Sensor for $171. These are VW parts.

IMO, the temp. sensor's not bad to replace...just takes some time the first time you do it, and you have the special tool. I used a 3-4" 3/8" with a 6" ratchet. Just long enough to fit in there, but not long enough to be in the way. It did take some oomph to get the EGT broke loose with the shorter ratchet.
 

Gizzmo_jr

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iD Parts carries the 088L for $150 and the 088EJ Sensor for $171. These are VW parts.
Yeah that's where I got mine. After $10 shipping plus duties and exchange, it's still HALF as much as the quoted price from the dealers near me. Bonkers...VWofCanada
 

paperthin

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Wow that is a big savings. I didn't have the time unfortunately to wait for the part to cross the border, nor did i have the tool. If it goes again though i am more educated on the matter.
 

ChelseaDave

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Thanks Andrew for that spectacular "how to" piece. I replaced my sensor sucessfully following your directions and using the special tool. One very big change to the process that I highly recommend is to remove the EGR filter. It is pretty easy to do with a 17mm ratcheting wrench from the top to get a hidden nut, and a flexible 3/8 knuckle with another metric socket from below (2 on flange (1 hidden, thus the knuckle) and a small clamp. Once this filter is out it is much easier to get the temp sensor out from below and put the new one in. There is no need to operate by feel from above at all. I think there is a net time savings overall. One important fact is that you need to buy a new gasket for the EGR filter. It is about $5 from the dealer. The parts guy said with all the problems with these early diesels, there is no way he would reuse or substitute something. Thanks to everyone who contributes. This is my first time tryint tor repay all those who have helped me throughout the years. A big tip of the top hat to DieselGeek.
 

Livefreeordie89

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I got lucky when mine went, because i have a dpf/EGR delete, it was easily taken off with a 17mm wrench and fished the wire through. Sucks it went bad at 42k -_-
 

arrzilla

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nj
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So this code (p0544) popped up for me along with the glashing GPL. I turned the car off and restarted after a couple of hours and the flashing GPL is gone. I'm getting a SERVICE NOW warning on the MFD but I think that's for the service interval coming up.

Any thoughts? Should the flashing GPL reappear if it's really shot? I havent cleared thr DTC yet.
 

Rabbid0281

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Same boat as OP

I may have caused this when I was washing my car a couple weeks ago and forgot I had open connectors above the VNT actuator...
I have a lot of modifications to my 2012 Jetta. CR170 turbo, Malone Stage 3+, Buzzken 2.5" turbo back exhaust with only resonator, ECS Tuning full short shift kit and a South Bend SMF Stage 2 Endurance clutch/flywheel.

This is a screen shot of the error my car was throwing:


After looking at the first page of the post about the break down of the sensors, this helped me conclude the shop that installed my turbo and clutch probably did not install the sensor correctly even after I specifically told them about the spacer. I would have done the work myself, but am no longer physically able, due to injuries sustained while in the Army. So I went ahead and ordered a new sensor and am about to go take it out and make sure the EGT spacer is in there.
 

Rabbid0281

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turns out the spacer was in there. guess it just went bad. Im at 96k miles now and it hasnt really affected anything, but the turbo sounds like its not allowing it to build full boost. sounds more like an exhaust leak like when my EGR canister failed. Picking up a new sensor monday. hope that fixes it.
 

Rabbid0281

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Changed out the EGT sensor today, problem solved.
 

weasel

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Sep 12, 2000
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Did mine today. What a pita. Glad that's done. Done just in time too. Dpf did a regen on its own after a test drive (yay!).
 

Jphagen

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This procedure (pictures and text) helped immensely. I could have never done this by myself. The mirror and coat hanger suggestion were very important. Once the sensor was placed in the exhaust manifold opening from below (with the bent coat hanger) and the nut at the opening was situated loose I then was able to touch the top of the nut from above with the tops of my fingers and hand tighten. Used the homemade spanner socket for the final tightening with a 1/4" ratchet and a 4" extension.
 

148am

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Hello all, Here is a simple guide to help replace your G235 Temp sensor, Bank one. It is a 2-3 hour job at home, on ramps and you will need the special tool, (VW #T40055 or Snap On #FRXM-17) mentioned above.
[snip]
All the best,
Andrew
Andrew, many thanks for the how-to.

Replaced the sensor yesterday, most of the time was spent figuring out the best angle of attack. I ended up using a pull string to follow the old sensor out, then to route the new sensor wire with the sensor itself going in from the top by hand. More than one way to go about it, of course.
 
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