Audi A4R4 450HP CBEA (CR) Build

TDIsyncro

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This is what a CBEA cam set looks like.

One lobe/valve




Again, latest technology - hollow tube section with shrink fit hardened steel lobes and bearing races. The cam uses rocker roller followers that multiply the lift of the cam, so cam litf is less then valve lift. This means getting extra valve lift does not requie as much gain on cam.




The gear drive system linking the two cams together. Note that the driver gear is split in half and has an offset in the teeth. The split piece is free to turn, but is preloaded with spring washers. It creates a gear drive with no back lash.


 

TDIsyncro

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Now we are working our way back to the valve train and ports.

This is the CBEA intake manifold. Note that there are 8 intake ports - 4 rectanglular ones, 4 round ones.




This layout will allow us to do some interesting things which we will talk about further into the thread when we get into assembly. For now its a teaser and people are welcome to take guesses. If you look close at the porting pictures, you may get a hint.
 

TDIsyncro

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This is a call out to all you GTB2260VKL owners that have dumped your electronic actuators for a vacuum actuator.

I need a couple good electronic actuators. Anybody want to donate?


Please and thanks!
 

O.C.TDI

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TDIsyncro said:
This is a call out to all you GTB2260VKL owners that have dumped your electronic actuators for a vacuum actuator.

I need a couple good electronic actuators. Anybody want to donate?


Please and thanks!
I can donate mine to the cause for the price of shipping.:D
Let me know.

O.C.
 

turbo johan

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TDIsyncro said:
This is a call out to all you GTB2260VKL owners that have dumped your electronic actuators for a vacuum actuator.

I need a couple good electronic actuators. Anybody want to donate?


Please and thanks!
I have about 10 laying around and some KKK ones.
Tell me if you need some.

Johan
 

TDIinTexas

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Pay for the shipping and you can have mine. PM me.

Just keep me in the loop when you are able to use them to control these turbos.

David
 
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shakescreek

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"I need a couple good electronic actuators. Anybody want to donate?"

I have a kkk one from a bv50. If it is any good to you you are welcome to have it.
 

TDIsyncro

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thanks guys. I will PM you in the morning. It doesnt matter if its VK or VKL. As long as it an electronic actuator. :)
 

KubotaPowered

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Going back to the valve seats, whats to say they don't come loose during operation? I only ask because I just saw a Rolls Royce drop a pressed in valve seat and not only destroy the cylinder that dropped it but the adjacent cylinders due to the fact that they migrated through the intake?
 

shadowmaker

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KubotaPowered said:
Going back to the valve seats, whats to say they don't come loose during operation? I only ask because I just saw a Rolls Royce drop a pressed in valve seat and not only destroy the cylinder that dropped it but the adjacent cylinders due to the fact that they migrated through the intake?
I think that's not a priority concern when you are building 450hp 2L diesel engine. :) Yes, it can happen to even stock engine, but that's rare. Even with race engines with custom seats that's rare.
 

coolbreeze

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Just have to say thank you. This thread is really fantastic. for me not so much the 450 hp build up, but to see the break down and individual part of this CBEA is great. Please along with your posting on your modifications keep educating on the engineering of this new engine.
 

TDIsyncro

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back to the porting pic updates from Bill. Better post them before he gets annoyed with me.
Bill, can you add description?

Pic1


Pic2


Pic3


Pic4


Pic5


Pic6


Pic7


Pic8


Pic9


Pic10
 
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Mach1

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Are you guys going to run the fill/swirl valves like OEM, or just run them all wide open?

Are those Valve seats Stellite?
 

87turboquattro

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Mach1 said:
Are you guys going to run the fill/swirl valves like OEM, or just run them all wide open?

Are those Valve seats Stellite?
they don't cut like stellite.they seem softer.gm's stellite seats have the shavings turn blue as your cutting them.
 

87turboquattro

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as for the pics,these ports are only semi done.next up will be the polishing and then swirl finish.
tdimiester,do you see what i'm saying as to the seats proximity to the scribed line of the fire ring.i give myself .010" as not to cause a problem.
 

TDIsyncro

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Mach1 said:
Are you guys going to run the fill/swirl valves like OEM, or just run them all wide open?

Are those Valve seats Stellite?
We are still going to have a swirl port. The concept of this engine is to have good streetable power, and yet be able to pull off 200+HP/litre. To have good low power, low RPM driveability, we need to retain good swirl.
 

TDIMeister

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Yes, I do see it now, thank you. Although the idea of bore notching the block as you mentioned here is appealing to me even with stock intake valve sizes because of the de-shrouding it would do. Plus the shrouded location that would be notched doesn't appear to come close to any critical areas or thin walls on the block.

Every bit of extra intake airflow at a given pressure means to the engine less boost required to make a given power. Already I've calculated running 4.3 bar boost (absolute) to reach the target HP. If I can reduce that by "only" 0.3 bar (4.35 PSI) through better airflow, I can reduce PCP by 12 bar (a benefit factor of 40X) and easily putting me under my self-imposed PCP limit.

I wonder if Louis would be open to this avenue. There's plenty of length from the block deck surface to the top ring depth. How much bigger valves can we go with if we do the bore notching? +2.5mm each?

Edit: Upon further thought an issue that would arise from bore notching would also mean having the same notch on the head gasket...
 

jjordan11

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Looking at the head it would be interesting to run a dual plenum setup for the swirl & fill ports. Different length & volume to optimize flow at different rpms, with some sort of throttle valve to control them separately. Maybe it would be too complex and cumbersome and not be benificial to power though.

Jon
 

mrchill

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Yes...the point Bill was making. The fire ring is so close that bore notching may not be ferasible...or not by much. I can measure it to be sure, but it looks (according to bills pic) like there is not enough room left at the fire ring area for both very large valves(+2mm and up) AND bore notching. Now in theory, you may not need to notch the bore for +2...but if you do, its a tough call. If you were able to go more than +2, bore notching would be necessary in order to benefit from the larger valve, else it would be a disadvantage.
 

TDIMeister

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Let's consider the option of notching the block for larger valves for a moment anyway. Since the valves are completely vertical, the notch will have to be as deep as the maximum lift. How much depth do we have from the deck surface to the top ring at TDC? If it will be less that what we envision for valve lift, I will shut up. ;) If is not, let's do it.
 
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mrchill

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Ok. We'll measure the max lift and the max potential lift(assuming a cam or follower upgrade). Then, I guess Louis will have to let us know where the theoretical top ring land will be with the new rods(not here yet I know) as he has the lower half...too bad. I would have like to scrutinize it.
 

glitdi

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great project!
Liked reading all about your last Audi cant wait to see this one done as well!
 

TDIsyncro

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mrchill said:
Ok. We'll measure the max lift and the max potential lift(assuming a cam or follower upgrade). Then, I guess Louis will have to let us know where the theoretical top ring land will be with the new rods(not here yet I know) as he has the lower half...too bad. I would have like to scrutinize it.
Top of piston to top ring is .475". If we assume .5mm (.020") protrusion above top of deck, that leaves .455" from deck to first ring. However, the OEM valves on this head have o protrusion, so I guess what we actually have depends a but on where the new ones will be sitting. Certainly .455" seems in the right ball park for lift. It will be a balancing act between valve dia and lift.
 
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