2006 jetta driver window motor

My driver side window motor just stopped working! where can I buy a new one at other than the dealer?

Ebay's sometimes worth a look,

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_tr...+jetta+window+motor&_sacat=See-All-Categories

but before you buy anything you might want to check that power is getting to the motor incase there's a damaged wire/wires where they go from the chassis to the door or the switch etc.

How do you know the motor is burned out? These cars have CanBus which requires VCDS to troubleshoot. your problem could be:

• Burned out motor.
• Faulty wiring.
• Faulty Window controller.
• Defective switches.

Don't "shotgun parts" at the problem. Find out were the problem actually is.

How do you go about isolating the problem? Is it just a question of using a volt meter at the switch and then at motor in order to isolate the problem? I have a 2003 Golf and I have the same problem. I can't hear any motor sounds whatsoever but the switch does still make a bit of noise other than the clicking movement of it.

Try removing the door panel and giving the motor body some sharp taps with a drift punch while holding the switch up or down. If it starts working ....you do need a motor. If not check for a broken wire in the door flex harness (this is a very common place for a fault to occur).

I have the same car, same problem, same week I'm just glad I'm not the only one. if you have control of the other 3 windows from the driver's door controller and the lights in the door/on the controls light up, you don't have the faulty jumper between chassis and door problem as mentioned above. I just pulled my interior panel, removed the motor and door controller from the sheet metal. I plugged the door controller back in as well as the window switch panel the goes on the interior trim and tried to operate the motor with no load. I can hear the motor's anti-pinch load switch clicking when I attempt to put the window up, and nothing attempting to put it down. My guess is the motor is bound otherwise there would be no anti-pinch clicking.
Checking voltage at the motor is a try too as it will tell you if you have voltage through the switch however the connector from the interior panel to the motor has about 15 pins and I have no idea which ones to measure.

I'm not looking forward to a new motor, but in response to your initial question - lower cost and higher risk at a scrap yard or ebay. what's the dealer price?

good luck!
-mike

Same problem. The thick red wire was broken in the wiring warness boot to the door-car. Spliced a piece of wire in and Bob's Your uncle. Total cost $0.10

Broken wire NOT a bad motor

Okay, so the world's greatest boyfriend wanted to trouble shoot my driver side window so I sent him the link to this discussion. He said he never would have looked for the wire issue in the door hinge area but "wha-la", there she is!!! He pulled that boot back and there was the problem. Now all he has to do is figure out how to get his big hands in there to repair it!

I'd post a picture but apparently I'm not allowed to

driver window

I had the same problem on my 2006. Driver window stopped working. I searched for new motor, got one for the passenger side, changed the control module, did not work and put it in figuring the motor was bad. Then found the right one for the drivers side (from used parts guy in Germany), put it in and it did not work. Read the post on TDI club and went out to check the harness and sure enough the red wire was severed, several other had the insulation stripped. Check the wiring harness first!

Corroded wire, that's it!

Oh man, I've been dealing with electrical issues in my driver door for a while now, 2002 Jetta TDI Wagon.Thanks for your posts here!!! It's not the motor, it's not the switch, it's not the window assembly, it's corrosion!

Now I'm thinking this is all stemming from the notorious sunroof leak - water has spilled into the column where tons of wires run through. I had to pull off the panels under the steering wheel, pull up the left foot rest, and the panel covering the hood release. The aforementioned red (and white) wire was all corroded out, in the bottom of 3 assemblies.

Now just need to do a little electrical rehab, and hopefully will be good to go! Thanks for everyone's help!!!

Thank you

I had the same problem checked the wire harness and it had corrosion,sprayed it with electrical cleaner and the window is working again.
Thanks

Make sure to check the connection between the door and car. Mine stretched right there and I just had to add more wire, solder and protect it, been working fine ever since.