Diesel purge

I am doing a 20k interval service on my alh. Ordered a can of diesel purge with my filters. When I spoke to the vendor, they said I could pour it right into the new fuel filter and run ot that way as the filter prime. Is this OK?

I do a diesel purge when I change the fuel filter.i pull the old filter out and put the can in the spot where the filter goes. I have two pieces of new metal brake line cut at about 12-14 inches each with a 90 degree bend on the top.

Put the steel tubes in the can make sure they go all the way to the bottom of the can hook up the two fuel line that go to the IP and start the car. Do not allow the car to drain the can and suck air or you will have problems. Save a 1/4 can of purge, pour it into the new filter top the filter off with additional diesel if need. Button things back up,and start your car.

The picture is the setup I used on my daughters 01 Beetle.

It's more effective to run it straight from the can. By putting it in the fuel filter,it gets instantly diluted with the supply and return fuel.

^^^^^^
This!

Google Diesel Purge videos -- run it full strength out of the can varying RPM during purge. Then reconnect fuel system with new filter. Good to go!

Tdijarhead said:

I do a diesel purge when I change the fuel filter.i pull the old filter out and put the can in the spot where the filter goes. I have two pieces of new metal brake line cut at about 12-14 inches each with a 90 degree bend on the top.

Put the steel tubes in the can make sure they go all the way to the bottom of the can hook up the two fuel line that go to the IP and start the car. Do not allow the car to drain the can and suck air or you will have problems. Save a 1/4 can of purge, pour it into the new filter top the filter off with additional diesel if need. Button things back up,and start your car.

The picture is the setup I used on my daughters 01 Beetle.

Click to expand...

Doing it that way, you will suck any "crap" that the diesel purge dislodges from inside your pump right back into the pump.
Better to install an inline filter to catch any of that stuff....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iq_ZGh1KEec

Application is considerably easy: just pour the can into the tank. It can also be applied in a preventative manner to prevent the formation of deposits right from the start. When you are experiencing severe engine troubles caused by deposits, you can fight them off with a shock dose. Disconnect the fuel line, put the end in the can of Diesel Purge and start the engine. Now it runs on pure, concentrated additive. This is the way to get the best results. In case of persisting deposits, repeat the application

__________________
Best Limo Woodbridge

Michae said:

Application is considerably easy: just pour the can into the tank. It can also be applied in a preventative manner to prevent the formation of deposits right from the start. When you are experiencing severe engine troubles caused by deposits, you can fight them off with a shock dose. Disconnect the fuel line, put the end in the can of Diesel Purge and start the engine. Now it runs on pure, concentrated additive. This is the way to get the best results. In case of persisting deposits, repeat the application

__________________
Best Limo Woodbridge

Click to expand...

If you think it will benefit from the pure additive then just sucking it out of the can isn't the best way. The majority will quickly be sent back to the tank.

If you want to run it straight, do it as described 2 and 5 rather than the above post. Also, some think it beneficial to shut it down and let it soak after running it for a bit so the stuff can work.

Keep in mind there's probably a half can of fuel still in the pump when you start this process.

maxmoo said:

Doing it that way, you will suck any "crap" that the diesel purge dislodges from inside your pump right back into the pump.
Better to install an inline filter to catch any of that stuff....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iq_ZGh1KEec

Click to expand...

When I did the Beetle in the photo the diesel purge in the can became slightly cloudy. That's the only "crap" I've ever seen while doing one of these. Usually the purge in the can remains clear. That tells me the Beetle had never been done before, it had about 170K on it.

I've seen some use a filter and some don't. I never have.

I use the method as in post number 2, it works the best. However if I do not have time I will use a can of diesel purge in the tank at a 1/4 of a tank and run it hard. It does not work as good but still works.

I buy two cans, first can I run directly out of the can, actually a mason jar so I can see the level better, then I fill my new filter with the second can and put it all back together, as I don't usually have any diesel hanging around. I have used a filter lately.

If you're doing it to clean up an older (100k mi.+) run it straight. If you fill the filter every 20k miles, you'll likely never need to do that.
When the motor runs, especially at idle, it recirculates more fuel than it burns.

I made this "contraption" 4 or 5 years ago.. (use it quite often)

-Jeff peanut butter plastic jar.
-Long slim threaded bolt for hanger
-Plastic filter (which will never require changing in your life time)
-One plastic 1/4 inch elbow or your choice of size to match hoses, etc.
-Hoses
-JB Weld.

Drill hole in center of bottom of plastic jar. Sand paper the area around the hole as well as the end of the filter that will go into the hole. Leave the nipple on the filter so it will protrude above the bottom of the jar. Apply Kwik JB Weld to the filter and bottom of the jar (diesel fuel, diesel purge, etc., are compatible with JB Weld). Installation of the plastic elbow is pretty straight forward.

If the hole in the center of the lid is slightly larger than the bolt it will function as a vent. So, you can tighten the lid tight to avoid a mess.

Connect hoses directly to the IP "in" hose and the "return" pipe....

Follow logical procedure to avoid getting air in the system when connecting and reconnecting to the OE filter hoses, etc.

I have clamps, wire and hose plugs for hanging the contraption in its storage spot on the wall of my little garage.

My engine got really loud after cleaning intake especially the knocking at higher Rpms with a burnt diesel soot smell...through the heater vents! I’ll try straight from the can or a jar tomorrow. My fuel filter has 5k on it.

P.s. That hanging peanut butter jar is impressive, but my jb weld would burst a leak and I’d try to catch it in a panic and take a diesel purge bath as it splashed all over the engine bay.

Fahrvegnugen said:

My engine got really loud after cleaning intake especially the knocking at higher Rpms with a burnt diesel soot smell...through the heater vents! I’ll try straight from the can or a jar tomorrow. My fuel filter has 5k on it.

P.s. That hanging peanut butter jar is impressive, but my jb weld would burst a leak and I’d try to catch it in a panic and take a diesel purge bath as it splashed all over the engine bay.

Click to expand...

Key words in your post >> ".... really loud after cleaning the intake .... the knocking..."

Questions: Did you remove the Intake from the engine to clean it? If so, how did you clean the Intake? Are you sure you get all the crud out? And, the big question, if you removed the Intake, did you clean the Intake ports in the head?

Notice the Intake Ports in the head below.... (it's obvious chunks of crud flaked off). Where did the crud go? Did some of it get caught between the Intake Valves and the valve seats? If so, did the pistons hit the valves or did it land on top of the pistons (in ether case > Knocking could be the result) Space between the head and pistons (and valves) is extremely close.




Notice the head below (same one as above)....




The Intake that was on the head above was cleaned by solvent (dull itched metal is the clue). However, the Intake Ports in the head were obviously not cleaned. The baked crud flaked off and destroyed the engine.

The "peanut butter" jar JB Weld Contraption has been in use 4 or 5 years as I stated above ... no leaks and works just fine! Just sharing ...

Let us know how the engine knocking turns out....

Andy thanks for the council. Honestly I was thinking of your past posts when I heard the loud clatter. I scraped the intake ports and manifold but not perfectly clean, it was so much work (on sundays only) in my friends garage without every tool I could possibly need... laid up in total for 3 weeks with turbo swap! I don’t have an overboost code any longer.

Above photo is my diesel purge set up. I just went for a hard country spin and it seems quieter. I tried to bleed the ip but the hard start was still brutal. Thankfully The full size amg battery pulled through. My filter was FULL of a mix of diesel purge and stanadyne. I got 5/16” nylon hose connectors and 5/16” id fuel hose but the fit was terrible, so instead of fuel hose clamps I went with generic hose clamps. Zip ties were of no use! Clear small od hose is a better fit (in a marinara jar) But fuel hose was easier for me to get. I think I may have better pull in third gear. I changed out mahle fuel filter for a Mann. Diesel purge smells better than stanadyne, sweeter, and better than diesel out the tail pipe too. I’d just fuel up on that if i could pump it.

Well, I do hope everything is okay.

I always get the weak knee feeling right before starting and engine that I've cleaned the Intake and head ports. It is very nerve racking to me. I have a special tool that I had a welding shop make for me (sort of like a dental pic). I use it along with a shop vacuum cleaner with a modified suction tube and compressed air. I've got pretty good using a light and shop mirror ........... but, it still scares the hell out of me. For a fresh Intake Manifold, I always keep one soaking in water with Dawn Liquid. I change the mix two or three times and after about two weeks, the pressure washer finishes the job. So, I always have an extra clean Intake ready for use.

The above head come off my brother's 03 Jetta which come from a Guru Shop (to remain nameless). They later admitted the car was "rolled" through the auction when they purchased it. The disaster happened about 11k miles after he bought it at 75 mph on I-75 north of Chattanooga, Tennessee. I installed the engine out of his wrecked 01 Jetta (that was about 5 years ago). Ironically, I am buying the 03 from him in about two weeks. My 2000 Jetta, with 370k miles on it, is going to my son.

Yeah, your Diesel Purge set-up looks fine and serves the purpose and that is all that matters!

FWIW, don't sweat the filter too much. My brother (bless his heart) let the OE Fuel Filter on his 01 Jetta go for just over 171,000 miles (scouts honor, that is the truth)... with no issues at all. That engine, as stated about, is in the 03 with over 300k miles on it.