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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014)

VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014) Discussions area for A6/MkVI (2010-2014) Golf and Golf Wagons (Jetta Sportwagon in the USA).

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Old December 16th, 2014, 11:48   #46
ilyago
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I used to get P2015 by itself, then I started getting P2015 and P2016 together.
Now its back to just P2015.
Wish I had a VAG-COM so I can see the voltages.
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Old December 16th, 2014, 14:56   #47
runonbeer
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There really is no way you can get P0215 with this part properly installed. Perhaps you don't have it hooked in the back?
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Old December 16th, 2014, 15:05   #48
runonbeer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corrado tdi View Post
You can look in VagCom/VCDS to determine how close you are to getting the P2015 fault code. In Measuring Block 121, field 4 you can see the resting feedback voltage going to the V157 flapper motor with the engine off and ignition on. The lowest voltage we have seen thus far consistent with NO check engine light is .380 volts:



If you fall below this voltage, the field 3 display (Bin. Bits) will go to all zeros and the P2015 code will be set.

On a new manifold or with the Dieselgeek P2015 repair kit installed the voltage in Field 4 is approximately .760:



If anybody sees something different than this please email me or post it here.
I just installed one of these fix brackets on a 2011 Jetta with 126K. It took 8 minutes including before and after MB121 readings.

Before I installed the part, mb121.4 was 0.456V
After is now 0.760V

These Voltages correspond to the motor's position when flaps are open. Jim and I measured a brand new manifold from VW. Guess what? 0.760V.

As the stop on the flap rail wears, the motor arm is allowed to move farther and farther back. The voltage signal gets lower and lower until it reaches 0.304V and a fault is set. As far as I can tell this number changes in discrete decrements of ~0.076V as the flap stops wear down.

Jim's fix bracket butts up to the motor arm and stops it from physically being able to move any farther than a position corresponding to 0.760V. It will never get any lower than that.

Last edited by runonbeer; December 16th, 2014 at 23:31. Reason: Desperately needed comma
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Old December 16th, 2014, 15:38   #49
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This shows what you should see if you have installed the P2015 fix bracket correctly. If you hold a flashlight over the V157 motor and look in between the V157's top two T30 Torx screws from the front of the car you will see that the P2015 repair bracket is hooked onto the motor casting:

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Last edited by corrado tdi; December 16th, 2014 at 15:46.
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Old December 16th, 2014, 16:06   #50
runonbeer
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I would like to just say that this fix is the real deal.

The failure has nothing at all to do with wear on the linkage arm that everyone is trying to fix with an eclip and or lithium grease. The wear occurs on the stop situated on the flapper rail itself, well inside the actual manifold portion. This is why VW wants to sell you a manifold.
Jim's part takes the stress off of this wimpy stop and increases the contact area for stopping the powerful return spring of the motor.

Mission accomplished Jim. Cheers!
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Old December 16th, 2014, 22:57   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runonbeer View Post
The failure has nothing at all to do with wear on the linkage arm that everyone is trying to fix with an eclip and or lithium grease. The wear occurs on the stop situated on the flapper rail itself, well inside the actual manifold portion. This is why VW wants to sell you a manifold.
Jim's part takes the stress off of this wimpy stop and increases the contact area for stopping the powerful return spring of the motor.
Considering this information, it sounds like this little device is not only a fix for this issue but could also be a preventative. Would you recommend installing it on a car to prevent the problem from ever occurring? Perhaps I will start monitoring that measuring block regularly.

Have Fun!

Don
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Old December 16th, 2014, 23:22   #52
runonbeer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSWTDI09 View Post
Considering this information, it sounds like this little device is not only a fix for this issue but could also be a preventative. Would you recommend installing it on a car to prevent the problem from ever occurring? Perhaps I will start monitoring that measuring block regularly.

Have Fun!

Don
Absolutely! The car I put it on today had no fault, but just look at the numbers. It was only two decrements away from faulting out. It will eventually happen to all of them. This part allows you to stop thinking about this problem.

The little stop on the flap rail is teeny tiny. It is astounding to me that VW thought it would be a good idea to make this the primary and only stop for that motor return spring. Anyone who has messed with one of these off the car knows how much finger force it takes to move that motor.
I would love to post up a picture of the thing but it isn't easy to get a pic that really illustrates the problem. First of all it's tiny. Second of all it is black and it is set into an equally tiny recess that is also black so reflected light just does not cooperate. Plus you really have to see it in action along with the flap linkage to really get it.

Its sort of like the PD cam failures. They are just asking way too much of this tiny little thing and to top it off the material is all wrong.

Its like taking a plastic hammer and whacking it on the ground a few thousand times. It will not have the same dimensions that it did before you started whacking. The motor flaps are actually getting overclocked as a result of this failure so this is not solely an effort to satisfy the ECM, It actually fixes the flaps and takes 100% of the load off of the whimp-stop.

Last edited by runonbeer; December 16th, 2014 at 23:34.
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Old December 17th, 2014, 06:22   #53
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I have to check MB on mine to see what the voltages are. I unplugged my flap motor and have been getting better MPG that I use to get. I have no code but car is running better also.

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Jamie
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Old December 17th, 2014, 07:30   #54
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The fault just showed up on my 2009 JSW with 221,000 miles ans I just ordered the kit. It would be nice if the precisely German engineered car was made to last without having to add all of the aftermarket fixes that are thankfully available.
Perhaps we can keep them on the road with help from DieselGeek and 2 Micron et al.

Thanks.

JDB

Last edited by redbarron55; December 17th, 2014 at 07:42.
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Old December 17th, 2014, 07:56   #55
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You can see the stock plastic butterfly shaft stop in between the rectangular and round intake port closest to the V157 motor in this video: http://youtu.be/cOyTGgi4sCU

Just crank up the resolution to 1080p and watch it on a computer monitor to see it.
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Old December 17th, 2014, 13:43   #56
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Here is a picture of the weak plastic stop built into the throttle butterfly shaft:

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Old December 18th, 2014, 08:17   #57
ilyago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
The fault just showed up on my 2009 JSW with 221,000 miles ans I just ordered the kit. It would be nice if the precisely German engineered car was made to last without having to add all of the aftermarket fixes that are thankfully available.
Perhaps we can keep them on the road with help from DieselGeek and 2 Micron et al.

Thanks.

JDB
I would say that for a car with 220K miles, you would expect some parts to require replacement. And with the fix available from dieselgeek, it is a really trivial issue.
Hopefully with more sales, the price should come down so that more people will buy it as a preventive fix.
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Old December 18th, 2014, 10:05   #58
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This fix works ! I got help from Jim and installed the piece last night easy install literally ten min , piece of mind and now no check engine light !! Would recommend to get this piece for anyone who has this issue or even for preventive maintenance ....
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Old December 18th, 2014, 11:24   #59
redbarron55
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At 221,000 miles I expect some parts to need replacement, however that does not excuse poor design of parts at wear points being designed to hold up properly. This is a stop and should be pretty simple. I guess tat plastic has a good percentage chance of making it through the warranty period and then the owner can jus buy a new manifold and pay the dealer to replace it.
I bought the car for long term reliability and paid a premium for it. As is said sometimes you get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get.
In this case I am paying $65 plus freight for what VW should have designed to not need in the first place.
Along with RCV valves, VNT actuators, DPFs , 2 Micron filters, and roof drain tubes etc.
I am just glad that DieselGeek has found the solution and I can get it for only $65 and freight vs. a new manifold and labor. All in all a good deal, but should not be necessary.
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Old December 18th, 2014, 15:54   #60
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Finally got the P2015 code yesterday, and at 365,000 miles am not complaining. Another member here is going to order 2 of Dieselgeek's parts. One for him and one for me. He has generously offered to make the repair on mine since we live less than 50 miles apart. Sure beats $900 at the dealer and I am so glad to meet such awesome people here on this forum.
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