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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014)

VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014) Discussions area for A6/MkVI (2010-2014) Golf and Golf Wagons (Jetta Sportwagon in the USA).

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Old December 10th, 2014, 06:39   #31
dustingebhardt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volks27 View Post
What are the symptoms (other than CEL) when this "arm" goes out ?
Nothing noticable. The engine seems to run fine with no noticable effect on mileage, power, or drivability. However, I will say that twice in the past month, I've had instances where I give the go-pedal a strong push and nothing happens, except a bunch of smoke (soot? steam? fuel?) comes out the exhaust. Then, a second or two later, all is good. Both times it has happened during my morning commute. It might not be related, considering this is a new development and I've had the CEL on for the past 6mo to a year.
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Old December 10th, 2014, 06:39   #32
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Originally Posted by corrado tdi View Post
The P2015 manifold fix is available now. They will start shipping Wednesday the 10th.
Purchased. Thanks!
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Old December 10th, 2014, 07:21   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustingebhardt View Post
I've had instances where I give the go-pedal a strong push and nothing happens, except a bunch of smoke (soot? steam? fuel?) comes out the exhaust. Then, a second or two later, all is good. Both times it has happened during my morning commute. It might not be related, considering this is a new development and I've had the CEL on for the past 6mo to a year.
Sounds more like your engine taking a big sip of intercooler juice.
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Old December 10th, 2014, 08:01   #34
corrado tdi
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Originally Posted by volks27 View Post
What are the symptoms (other than CEL) when this "arm" goes out ?
I have had two people mention that their mileage went down when the P2015 code popped up. I know this is a small sample. Anyone else with the code care to comment?
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Old December 10th, 2014, 13:44   #35
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Originally Posted by corrado tdi View Post
I have had two people mention that their mileage went down when the P2015 code popped up. I know this is a small sample. Anyone else with the code care to comment?
I've been tracking my mileage with Fuelly for almost 100k miles. I've averaged 41mgp and I haven't noticed any major change. For the past several months, I've averaged around 39.5mpg, so I wouldn't consider this a big difference.
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Old December 10th, 2014, 19:46   #36
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My mileage takes a noticeable hit (2-4 mpg) when the temperatures drop. Perhaps this is what you are experiencing since this is November.
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Old December 10th, 2014, 20:35   #37
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I don't have a code but mpg is down, I'm going to look this weekend at the flap motor and operation. We have 170k on ours so could be something up with it I hope.
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Old December 14th, 2014, 17:47   #38
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can someone tell me if this looks normal? It's moving but it doesnot look right to me

http://youtu.be/PlXRpu8ThQE
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Old December 14th, 2014, 19:15   #39
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Looks normal to me. Here is one I shot of a 2011 Jetta sedan:

http://youtu.be/UOFkpxdOFbs
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Old December 15th, 2014, 06:32   #40
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I got my Dieselgeek part on Saturday and installed it right away. Here are some takeaways:
  1. I was surprised by how high up this part created the stop for the motor arm. When I tried making my own stop by drilling and tapping the zinc motor body,I only pushed the motor arm up by about 2mm (3/32"). The dieselgeek part stops the arm at around 6mm (1/4").
  2. The part is a tight fit, probably by design. The zinc body on the motor had a parting line that I had to file down to get the dieslegeek part to fit all the way down.
  3. You could probably install this part without removing the motor, but since I had to remove the DIY-bolt-stop from a previous attempt at a repair, I was forced to remove the motor. I only dropped the spring once, so I guess you could call this a success? :-)
  4. My installation procedure went like this:
    1. With the motor removed, loosen the socket head cap screw on the dieselgeek part with a 4mm hex key (aka allen wrench).
    2. Push the motor arm out of the way and test fit the part. It will be a tight fit. I needed to file down a bit of the parting lines on the zinc body of the motor. (Edit: The need to file down the body may vary. I had very large parting lines on my motor body. YMMV.)
    3. Using one of the motor mounting bolts, feed it through the hole on the part and then through the motor body mounting hole. This bolt will help keep all of the pieces aligned as you tighten the part down.
    4. Move the arm out of the way and align the part. Tighten the socket head cap screw to secure the part. You might need to gently tap the part with a small hammer to get it to fully seat. (Edit: One of the edges of my part began to bite into the softer zinc motor body, so a very, very light tap was needed to get it to get into its correct position.)
    5. Reinstall the motor onto your engine as normal.
I started and stopped the engine a few times, and the CEL went away. My laptop that I use for VCDS is in the shop, so I wasn't able to run the recalibration sequence.
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Last edited by dustingebhardt; December 16th, 2014 at 07:00.
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Old December 15th, 2014, 09:30   #41
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dustingebhardt,

Thanks for your feedback on the P2015 install. Your atypical situation made our "hook and hold" install method not applicable for you. I'm very pleased at your results though.

Some thoughts:

The P2015 repair bracket was designed with the variability of the motor casting's parting line in mind. My machinist drew the top bracket to hold the main bracket slightly away from the motor body once the screws were tightened. The top plate was also CNC machined with very tight tolerances. If you are just trial fitting the bracket on a loose motor it will look like the parting line will interfere but when everything is tightened down with the motor on the manifold the P2015 bracket will be about .050" away from the motor body. Parting lines are a wild card though and it is possible that somebody, including you, might have a sloppy parting line that requires some slight filing to make it work. For most people, the parting line will not be an issue once everything is tightened down. If you remove the motor, buying a hemostat or a pair of forceps is recommended if you want to make sure that the return spring isn't lost into the abyss of the engine bay. That said, there is at least one person who has the bracket installed with no spring present and the fix kit is working fine after thousands of miles. We've even shot a video where on a used motor and manifold there was no tension on the spring throughout it's entire range of travel.

As far as using a hammer to get the bracket to seat I will mention that the part is meant to fit with a good tight interference fit on the cast motor body. There is no need to use a hammer to seat the part since the extra long Allen screw will pull the part onto the motor casting's "nub" when you tighten it. Tightening both screws pulls everything into place. Once tightened, the part will never move again.

Glad you got it done and I look forward to hearing from more people about their installs.
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Last edited by corrado tdi; February 9th, 2015 at 15:25.
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Old December 16th, 2014, 07:04   #42
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Jim,
I editted my post to make is clearer that my install process appears to be nontypical. I do want to say thanks for making this part, and it appears to be working well. In regards to the hammer use, I used a small hammer and very light force when adjusting the part. One edge of your machined part was biting into the cast motor body and beginning to gall. I could have probably backed out the screw, repositioned the part, and tightly hold it in position while tightening the screw.

Thanks again,
Dustin
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Old December 16th, 2014, 09:58   #43
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I got and installed the dieselgeek part, however I am still getting the P2015 code.
I can move the lever manually, but I am not sure if I need to do something else to it at this point, or if the motor has gone bad.
I don't have a laptop, so no VAG-COM. I will try to cycle the ignition a few times to see if the motor will move and reset the fault.
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Old December 16th, 2014, 10:14   #44
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Have you scanned for codes recently Ilyago? If so, do you have a P2016 code? We definitely need to get an operating motor in there to get rid of P2015. Maybe someone here has a used motor from a complete manifold replacement that they can sell you.
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Last edited by corrado tdi; December 16th, 2014 at 10:53.
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Old December 16th, 2014, 10:18   #45
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You can look in VagCom/VCDS to determine how close you are to getting the P2015 fault code. In Measuring Block 121, field 4 you can see the resting feedback voltage going to the V157 flapper motor with the engine off and ignition on. The lowest voltage we have seen thus far consistent with NO check engine light is .380 volts:



If you fall below this voltage, the field 3 display (Bin. Bits) will go to all zeros and the P2015 code will be set.

On a new manifold or with the Dieselgeek P2015 repair kit installed the voltage in Field 4 is approximately .760:



If anybody sees something different than this please email me or post it here.
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Last edited by corrado tdi; December 16th, 2014 at 14:35.
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