Step on the gas it pulls left, let off-pulls right

My wife drives our 98 Jetta TDI most of the time. I drove it the other day and a little problem from a couple years ago is really bad now.

When I step on the gas, it pulls to the left, when let off the gas, it pulls to the right (and not just a little).

When this first started a couple years ago, I took it to a German mechanic who also did a timing belt on this TDI. He said the bushings are bad (In the lower A arms I think, near the center of the car). He said he can press out the bad and press in good ones rather than replace the entire A-Arm.
Saves me money.

Where can I purchase this piece at a discount to help lower the cost?

Anything else I should consider?

Thanks!

For my 96 Passat wagon, a new lower control arm with bushes already pressed in was cheaper than buying the bushings separately plus the labor to install them. Get your mechanic to price it both ways.

Fit polybushes and never worry again

geez said:

Anything else I should consider?

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I had this happen to me, but all my a-arm bushing were in good shape, with new bolts and TT LCA bushings less than a year old...turned out to be a badly worn outer CV joint...Do you get any other type of noise that accompanies your application/removal of throttle?

Glassman, Shane47 and TDIDaveNH, thank you!
Glassman, I like your direction.
Shane47, you add to the right direction.
TDIDaveNH...about a year ago the half shafts were replaced...but your reasoning is excellent and would deffinately be a source of my described problem! Thank you!

I would also check tie rod ends, especially the inner ones.

Biczek said:

I would also check tie rod ends, especially the inner ones.

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Agreed.

My passat starts pulling left & right with the accelerator when an inner tie rod needs to be replaced.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet

Bought both control arms. Time being g an issue, will try and I stall Sunday. Will video and post to this.

Okay, replacing the control arms was 30 minutes per side. Very easy! I'll post a video here when edited. Although others here have likely already posted a video... can't believe a mechanic said the book time was 2 hours PER SIDE!

Easy! Replaced both of mine for vr6 items along with new brakes and hubs, I swapped my complete rear axle in under and hour on my own laying under the car!

geez said:

Okay, replacing the control arms was 30 minutes per side. Very easy! I'll post a video here when edited. Although others here have likely already posted a video... can't believe a mechanic said the book time was 2 hours PER SIDE!

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You did not include time to smoke, drink coffee, and scratch your a$$.

So to bring back an old thread, did the LCA fix for issue?? Mine does the same thing with fresh LCA bushings

See posts 6 and 7. The control arm bushings had less of an effect on the 'torque steer' than tie rods. I'd check the rod ends first before the control arms.

You need to inspect the INNER tie rod end.
The passenger side for some reason is the weak point. The socket tends to crack, allowing the pivot ball to move more that just swivel like it should.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet

TonyJetta said:

You need to inspect the INNER tie rod end.
The passenger side for some reason is the weak point. The socket tends to crack, allowing the pivot ball to move more that just swivel like it should.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet

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I can support that, seems if there's an inner tie rod issue it's the passenger side for some reason.

Steve

My poly LCA bushings I ordered through energy suspension were less than $40 and I have 50k on them still love them

glassman said:

For my 96 Passat wagon, a new lower control arm with bushes already pressed in was cheaper than buying the bushings separately plus the labor to install them. Get your mechanic to price it both ways.

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what is the good place to buy? i might need this as well

bmwM5power said:

what is the good place to buy? i might need this as well

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I think all major parts retailers now carry loaded control arms. There are also a couple places that sell loaded arms but with the rear TT bushings too, someone mentioned it in a recent post but I can' remember which one it was. I'm sure someone will chime in with that info.

It's actually a pretty good deal to go with loaded arms although the standard bushings are really pretty cheap. I think it cost me $17 per control arm for bushings (rear TT/R32 bushings) versus the $50+ I see for a new loaded control arm with regular rear bushes.

I installed my bushings with random bits and some threaded pipe and pipe caps with the end drilled out. Doesn't take very long really.

Steve

I know I am reviving an old thread but I have some questions that I did not find the answer too yet. My 2000 golf TDI is horrible at pulling hard to the right when I chop the throttle and to the left when I push in the clutch. It darts around pretty bad really. I looked under my car and it looks to have brand new control arms already. The tie rods do not move by hand but something is sure causing the issue. The tie rods are both exposed (boots torn) and I suspect that to be the issue but, wouldn't I be able to feel some play in them by hand?

Its quite alright to revive old threads because our mk3's are 20 years old now so we would not have as much content going if you did not, thats why the're here. You can always start a new thread too.
as for your issue, Boots wont cause this, fix them to keep the rack in good health.
Check your upper strut bearing, lug nuts, axle nut, all bushings what not. Keep the car on the ground and try ng man handle the wheel. left to right, Tie rod or steering issue. top and bottom play is ball joint or bushings. Replace any bushings with poly or prothane brand bushings. Lasts for ever. you have to raise the car up to check the wheel play top and bottom for ball joints.
Get int he car, put in revers and lock the wheel to one side and slowly roll back. if you hear a clunking or something odd, its the CV axle, check both steering left and right.
If nothing is wrong with any bushings, axles, lugs,/ studs, or steering or anything like that. it might be an issue with your diff, thats the part in your transmission that sends power to one side over the other for better traction. thats kinda a last resort issue and probably is not the case. usually this is a case of bad bushings or some part of the suspension/steering. check your brakes too. does it pull when you put on the brakes?