LEDs bulbs for MKIV Jetta

kiwibru

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 21, 1999
Location
Distant island in WA. state
TDI
Golf 2-door, 2k Silver. Red RTDI now gone but not forgotten!
Until someone tries it out the H7 running lights are an unknown. The Celis LED seem to work on the Hella A4 Golf systems just fine so I can't imagine they would not work.
 

Powder Hound

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 25, 1999
Location
Under a Bridge, Crestview, FL, USA
TDI
'00 Golf 4dr White 5sp, '02 Jettachero 5sp, Wife's '03 NB Platinum Gray auto(!)
The lights on the superbright site are indicated as DRL lights, which means they admit right up front they won't be bright enough to replace an H7, unless the H7 is used only as a DRL and not for the main headlight beam.
 

josh8loop

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Location
Vero Beach, Fl.
TDI
2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
I ended up just cutting the metal hoop out of mine and soldered two flexible wires to the left over tabs from the metal hoop. I expected that hooking up a 5 ohm 10 watt resistor would cause the flashers to flash super slow and then I would dial the resistance value in from there. What actually occurred is that the flashers operated very erratically and the resistor got super hot-almost enough to let the factory smoke out:eek: I even tried to connect my short wires directly together which should have been similar in resistance value to the original hoop. The flashers worked but at a rate similar to what you would expect with a bulb out. Obviously there is more to the metal hoop structure than just a simple resistance value:eek: My next move is to experiment with some 33 Gage NiChrome wire I have to see if that will allow the proper flasher speed. I will post results after some experimentation over the next week.

Since I cut the metal hoop in there and soldered a wire to make the connection the flashers have been constantly on high. I experimented hooking up a resistor where the original metal hoop went and it got super hot like I mentioned above. The 33 gage NiChrome wire worked well when I substituted it. The flasher speed went back to normal even though I have a couple turn signals out currently. This means that 33 gage NiChrome wire could be used in the process to modify a flasher to achieve the desired flash rate. More experimentation would need to be performed to determine the exact length of NiChrome needed(would be around .750") and to determine an effective method to secure the NiChrome to the original metal posts since the NiChrome doesn't like to be soldered.
 

Waterbug

Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2003
Location
Three Rivers, Mi. USA
TDI
NB, 2001, cyber green
Hyperflashing after installing LED brake/turn signal lights

I see others are working on curing the hyperflashing issue, but I'll donate my 2 cents worth here anyway. I composed this essay before discovering the threads here! So, I may have a bit of redundancy here, sorry. What I have read so far is helpful, but the cure still appears challenging.
Like all of us TDI'ers, we all strive to eek the best economy and performance from our cars. Since HID and LED illumination is gaining ground in newer model cars and trucks, I retrofitted my beetle with some of the newer technology recently. I installed HID low beam headlamps, and replaced all 6 brake/running/turn signal lamps with LED's. I used cheap Chinese LED equivalent's :) of the common 1156 and 1157 lamps. The original front running/turn signal lamps were amber tinted, and had a special base "pin" configuration that is offset, so my amber LED bulbs would not fit the socket! So, I ground off the offending pin and left the pin that does the electrical connection intact. Seems to work ok. I quickly learned a couple of things. 1) the front running/signal LED's had very little brightness change when I had the running lights on and activated the turn signals! (due to cheap Chinese junk) To help improve the brightness differential, I installed 60 ohm 1 watt resisters in series with the leg supplying power to the running LED segments. 2) the other, and currently unsolved issue is "hyperflashing" when using the turn signals, OR the hazard (4-ways). Doh! The flasher unit now thinks I have a burn't out lamp! Grrrr. Totally forgot about this! Yes, the shade tree fix is to install load resisters on every lamp to fool the flasher, BUT, hey, this is NOT the proper fix for us economy enthusiasts is it? The load resisters totally defeat one of the main reason's to retrofit to LED's......to reduce current draw! Using load resisters does nothing to reduce the current draw and simply sheds the power as heat! You see, the average Edison turn signal or brake light bulb draws in excess of 2 amps EACH X 4 = 8+ amps! The LED's, all total, draw <1amp without using the fakeout load resistors! The better fix to hyperflashing is to modify the flasher unit so it looses the current sensing circuit! OK, for you purists out there, yes, if a bulb goes out, the flasher will no longer indicate it by going bizzerk, but remember, LED's, when NOT over driven, can last upwards of 30K + hours! An occasional walk around the car with the hazard flasher on will give a good indication if any lights are dead, no biggie. NOW, the punch line: Does anybody know how to modify the flasher unit to stop hyperflashing? A replacement flasher unit? Yes, they do make LED flasher units for many popular cars, the ones' that look like relays. I have not ran across any information on how to fix a VW LED conversion hyperflashing issue yet. Anybody been there? At the very least, could someone with access to a wiring diagram for the 2001 beetle be able to supply me with the hazard flasher units wiring configuration? Unless someone chimes in that knows of a "no load resister" fix, please post it or I'll have to go at it alone! In conclusion, between HID headlight conversion (or LED if you can find a kit), and refitting all incandescent lamps to LED's, you can reduce current consumption BIG TIME! Look at it this way; Driving around after dark, with all your lights on uses upwards of 20amps! You're burning diesel fuel to spin the alternator, which has to generate those amps! Convert to HID/LED lighting, you drop that current down to around 8 amps maybe? If you ran just your 4-way flashers with regular Edison lamps, you may expect about 7 or 8 hours before your battery throws in the towel. Run your 4-ways on all LED's? You lookin at like 4 days before battery dies? BIG difference. I took the old school 1157 dual filament bulb, hooked up to a laboratory 12 vdc power supply and measured nearly 3 amps both filaments lit. Took one of my LED 1157's and it wouldn't even raise the current meter needle! What does that tell ya! Thanks! Looking forward to hearing from anybody, or feedback in general. Hey we're changing out light bulbs at home, why not your car? ;)
 

davebugs

Vendor
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Location
Pittsburgh suburb
TDI
2001 Golf TDI Automatic, MKIV rear axle bushing install tools
I have a hazard switch out of a NB I'm parting and the plug with an inch or two of wire to donate to anyone trying to solve this.

I have LED backup lights and would like to find a simple bulb swap solution to this as well. But all this electronics stuff is over my head.

PM me if you're looking for parts to play with.
 

Zedbra

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2006
Location
Squamish, BC
TDI
2005 Jetta TDI
FYI: I grabbed some "Jam Strait" 1156R Red LEDs for my burned out tail lights from Autozone. They work great except for one problem: they do not fit through the holes in the plastic lens. You can squeeze them (gently) through and they will fit, but when you go to pull the assembly off to change any other bulbs, it pops right out. I have to go and fish it out of the lens cap in the morning... :-(

I may order some other ones from one of the sites listed in this thread.
I know this is an old post, but the thread was bumped. I had a similar issue with my 1156 bulbs - so I simply removed the tail light (had to replace the gasket behind them anyways) and used a Dremel to open up the holes in the lenses a bit more to make clearance for the bulbs.

I have all LEDS in the tails, including dual back-up lights (I have the candy cane tails) and I don't have any flasher issues. Now, all the front bulbs are still halogen (and I have dual amber flashers in my headlights). I have also replaced all my interior and licence plate bulbs with LEDS without issue.
 

Yacko

Active member
Joined
Jul 28, 2011
Location
Canada
TDI
2011 Jetta
Has anyone played with the 2011 jetta bulbs yet besides me? I am slowly replacing all the bulbs and I have run across a strange problem.
The 1157 brake/tail light LEDs work fine braking and if you try them with the flasher on without the car running fine. But as soon as you turn on the car and turn on the lights I get a bulb out error. And it's only on the right side. I have tried different LEDs all with the same results. Anybody have any ideas?
 

kiwibru

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 21, 1999
Location
Distant island in WA. state
TDI
Golf 2-door, 2k Silver. Red RTDI now gone but not forgotten!
Your ECU is powered when the car is running. It "thinks" there is a bulb out because of the voltage drop. It works when the car is running because the ECU is off and not monitoring. That's what we get for putting more controls in the hands of silicon chips!
 

josh8loop

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Location
Vero Beach, Fl.
TDI
2002 VW Jetta TDI Manual(performed 01M to 5-speed swap) - 183,000 miles and climbing!
I have a hazard switch out of a NB I'm parting and the plug with an inch or two of wire to donate to anyone trying to solve this.

I have LED backup lights and would like to find a simple bulb swap solution to this as well. But all this electronics stuff is over my head.

PM me if you're looking for parts to play with.




Flasher unit received. Thanks for sending it! I will post any results once I have them :)
 

phaser

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2004
Location
Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta PD - 490k
To turn off bulb out error on mk4 , I cut out a circuit inside the hazard switch.
hermus, thanks, this is very interesting.

If this stops the hyperflash when LED bulbs are installed, by all means, more information would be greatly appreaciated, as well as photos.

.
 
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hremus

Active member
Joined
Jan 24, 2011
Location
Brasov, Romania
TDI
101 AXR
Yes, this will stop fast flashing when led bulb are installed. Most of VAG hazard switch are based on U6043B chip. This chip has built in bulb outage function. It monitor on pin 7(of chip) the current absorbed by bulbs. All you need to do is to cut the circuit to pin 7 of chip. After this the hazzard swich will no longer sense low current consuption and will act normally. If you want to change the freqvency of flashing, you must change the resistor between pin 4 and 5 of chip. Pictures are on the link of my previous post. If you need more I will put another pics here.

LE: US hazzard switches are based on another chip, which is very appropiate to U6043B.
 
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phaser

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2004
Location
Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta PD - 490k
hremus thanks for the info.

Clicking the photo link in your previous post gets a "Sorry, you don't have permission for that!" message.

Could you post photos?

And are you saying that even though the US chip is different, it is essentially the same as the U6043B chip?

.
 
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davebugs

Vendor
Joined
Sep 15, 2003
Location
Pittsburgh suburb
TDI
2001 Golf TDI Automatic, MKIV rear axle bushing install tools
I believe the fella who I sent the flasher to in order to experiment had already done one fo rhis car.

I was oding a NB partout so I had one I sent him (he also has a NB).

I only have Golf and Jetta's other than a 70 yo aunt with a NB who wouldn't be interested in LED's.

I will have a Golf/Jetta switch soon from one partout, maybe 2 that I could try this with.

I'm not electrically inclined at all. This sounds simple.

Can't wait to see the pic.

Then it'll be members recommendations on which specific bulbs to buy (as in what seller/wholesaler since quality varies so much.

I bought some LED backups from a Canadian member a year or so ago that are bright - with a blue haze which is o.k. for backups.

I'd like to do runing/brake/rear turns too. Mostly because I hate changing the bulbs and how often they burn out. Brighter and long life I'm willing to pay a few bucks for!
 

hremus

Active member
Joined
Jan 24, 2011
Location
Brasov, Romania
TDI
101 AXR
You could not see pics in my link, because you are not a registred user. I will try to post pics here.
.

US hazard switch use a chip from the same familly(I don`t remember right now its code). Pinout is the same. Just need to disconect pin 7 of chip.
I see different type of EU hazard switches, all uses U6043B chip, just circuit board, and electronic component placement are different. So, you need to open the switch, find chip, locate pin 7 , and cut the circuit, closer to pin.
 
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trailhead

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Joined
Mar 9, 2013
Location
Don Valley Toronto
TDI
05sPD-BEWagon "Diesel Girl"
You could not see pics in my link, because you are not a registred user. I will try to post pics here.
.

US hazard switch use a chip from the same familly(I don`t remember right now its code). Pinout is the same. Just need to disconect pin 7 of chip.
I see different type of EU hazard switches, all uses U6043B chip, just circuit board, and electronic component placement are different. So, you need to open the switch, find chip, locate pin 7 , and cut the circuit, closer to pin.
Thank you, Thank you hremus!

It worked like a charm! I now have Led everything in the rear of my BEW wagon.

The chip is a different 8pin. I couldn't read the number it's so small, It was all I could do to find the 1 pin for reference. The PCB is totally different and accessing the 7 pin is challenging. You have to use the chip body to lever it off. Once disabled, the flash speed becomes a little faster, more energetic but, nothing like the former "bulb-out" speed.

Now I just need the Led bulbs for my fronts and sides to be fully off the tungsten!

So, stoked:):)
 

phaser

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2004
Location
Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta PD - 490k
The chip is a different 8pin. I couldn't read the number it's so small, It was all I could do to find the 1 pin for reference. The PCB is totally different and accessing the 7 pin is challenging. You have to use the chip body to lever it off.

I pried off the button, and only the led is there with the circuit board deeper inside like josh8loops in post 24.

Hremus's switch seems like the circuit board is right underneath the button, and easy to get to.

Was your's hazard switch like hremus's or like josh8loop's?

.
 
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phaser

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2004
Location
Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta PD - 490k
Same as post 24. Remove from dash to disassemble.
Thanks for the photo pointing out the proper pin. I bought a spare flasher in case I mess up, which I have dissembled.

That chip is tiny, and the pins even more so.

What did you use to cut or "lever it off"?

.
 
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hremus

Active member
Joined
Jan 24, 2011
Location
Brasov, Romania
TDI
101 AXR
Yes. After disable bulb monitoring, it flashes a lit a bit faster than normal. The frecvency is obtained from a pair of resistor-capacitor. Capacitor is dificult to change, but resistor is more easy, and can obtain any speed. In my hazard switch , originaly the resistor value was 100Kohm (104). I remove it, and I put temporary a 100K fixed resistor+50K variable resistor in series . From variable resistor I ajusted the flasher speed. After that, I measure the value of entire resistor ajusted , and put a fixed resistor with the same value or close to that. The value is 130Kohm
 
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trailhead

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Mar 9, 2013
Location
Don Valley Toronto
TDI
05sPD-BEWagon "Diesel Girl"
Thanks for the photo pointing out the proper pin. I bought a spare flasher in case I mess up, which I have dissembled.

That chip is tiny, and the pins even more so.

What did you use to cut or "lever it off"?

.
The tip of a protractor. I braced against thr chip and the pin popped/tore off the pcb cleanly.
 

trailhead

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2013
Location
Don Valley Toronto
TDI
05sPD-BEWagon "Diesel Girl"
Yes. After disable bulb monitoring, it flashes a lit a bit faster than normal. The frecvency is obtained from a pair of resistor-capacitor. Capacitor is dificult to change, but resistor is more easy, and can obtain any speed. In my hazard switch , originaly the resistor value was 100Kohm (104). I remove it, and I put temporary a 100K fixed resistor+50K variable resistor in series . From variable resistor I ajusted the flasher speed. After that, I measure the value of entire resistor ajusted , and put a fixed resistor with the same value or close to that. The value is 130Kohm
Many thanks again, you've made this very easy for me. I'm thinking of using a variable pot (like maybe a seat heater switch?) so I can adjust flash rate on the fly. Thanks for the 130kohm number. Now I just have to find that resistor on the pcb. If anyone figures where the resistor is on the pcb please post up. I'm going to leave mine alone until I find a spare to fully disassemble.

Cheers,
TC
 
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phaser

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2004
Location
Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta PD - 490k
The chip is a different 8pin. I couldn't read the number it's so small,
The number on that chip is: T505 U60438 04601-12

Trying to get that #7 pin disconnected is a real pain, and I gave up, and sacrificed the switch to get the circuit board out and have a close look at it.


Update: bought an x-acto/hobby knife, and after experimenting with the old circuit board, disconnecting that #7 pin on my good switch was a cinch with the knife.

Just be careful, and take your time so as not to damage any other pins. Good lighting, and magifying glasses were a big help.

Update: modified flasher installed.

Once disabled, the flash speed becomes a little faster, more energetic but, nothing like the former "bulb-out" speed. Now I just need the Led bulbs for my fronts and sides to be fully off the tungsten!
Ditto to that. Flasher speed a little faster, but perfectly acceptable.

.
 
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