Trunk won't open

azianjiu · Mar 19, 2010

Hey, has anyone tried the trunk fix that is in the youtube video?

Powder Hound · Apr 15, 2010

All I can say is that guy is really proud of his little lexan part.

TDIguy1836 · Apr 23, 2010

Well I broke mine two times and paid threw the nose both times.... this is much cheaper than the dealer part that broke 2 times on my car and it is a well machined part.

If you have this problem its the only real solution .... and its cheaper than the dealer part and even better as it wont break again.

xTDIx · Jul 24, 2010

I bought a replacement plastic part on ebay a while ago, works damn good. It was cheap too.

FiXxXeR · Jan 31, 2011

CochiseTDI said:
Hi folks,

Today my Jetta's trunk won't unlatch. I've tried both the driver's door switch, and the key directly in the trunk lock. The lock mechanism makes its usual brief whump sound minus the "plunk" of the latch popping open. No failure codes in the central locks control unit.

Any tips on getting the trunk open so I can get a look at the latch mechanism?

Thanks

Guys i had same problem With my MKIV Bora 2001, first the whole mechanism was broken with a faulty actuator too, and the latch two lines were welded together by the previous owner to just pop up the latch by the Key, that was annoying cause when i got the car it had only one key, (do not have the FOB), meaning each time visiting a hotel or Shopping mall i had to turn off the ignition and hand the guy the key in order to open the trunk. and personally i really do not like rubbish temp fixes, so below is the Old Mechanism,

so i bought a new complete set with the actuator, and got it installed, knowing that i had an idea of this particular part defect which have broken in the same exact place as everyone, after the third test, :-(

i tried to order the Jettatrunk.com Fix but being the MEA area i couldn't, so you need to get the below LoOoL parts
1. Water bottle can cap, (shortened to fit)
2. Wiring plastic trunk cover
3. this is the fun part, Clothes Hanger metal wire or what ever you like to call it, (you need to keep on working with pillars for a long time,, hehe)
as below:

and finally i used the bolts of the old actuator to fit the trunk cover over the bottle cap after fitting the clothes hanger mended wire in the correct circular place (the center point of the plastic rod, actually it's been a month now and it's working like a charm 00.00 USD spent

if you need any help with it just PM or mail me, and will be most happy to help out

TDI eddie · Mar 2, 2011

Powder Hound said:
All I can say is that guy is really proud of his little lexan part.

That's what I was thinking, my factory one made it 190k on a 2004. What's the part number for the factory part? I can't find it on-line.

TDI eddie · Mar 3, 2011

picked up the factory bracket today it's part # 1J5-827-567-A cost is $48.00. Will install this weekend.

runonbeer · Mar 27, 2011

I just insalled the jetta trunk fix dealie for a customer. Had to shorten the metal actuator rod. Just popped it off it's post down by the latch and thread the rod end up the rod and popped it back on. Otherwise it didn't move the thing far enough to actually open the latch.

The grey part in the kit could be machined differently to avoid this.

forestrat · Feb 12, 2012

I know this thread is old as hell but I figured I'd share my experience.

Went to the hardware store and picked up a tube of JB weld putty.
Went to town. Problem solved.

http://youtu.be/aG8w4wmrGTg

acesn8s77 · Jun 5, 2012

VW Jetta trunk release

It was no comfort hearing from my VW dealer they had no experience with this problem

but I had the same problem. I bought the replacement extruded plate that fits under the trunk lid There's a small round post on a pivot built in this extruded plate, onto which trunk release solenoid pushes a small piston that activated the release.
I crawled into the trunk and with a razor knife, I cut a small 2" x 3" rectangular flap in the center of the trunk liner (I have a 2003 GLS , what resale value?), pulled up on the release cable and after 6 months, the trunk lid popped open.

The replacement took 30 min, examine all the cable linkages and rod attachments. Release/unbolt the following:
Modular plug to solenoid
2 actuator rod ends
Interior trunk release cable (I cheated on re-install and did not reconnect this, but heck I've got a new 2"x3" access flap to release the trunk latch! if I'm ever kidnapped but ***)
3 10mm nuts that hold the entire plate to the trunk lid

Reverse order to install replacement plate

PDJetta · Jun 6, 2012

The same thing happened to my mother's '00 Jetta TDI and her rear seats do not fold down. I thought I (she) was screwed. I used the key in the trunk lock and turned it fully and kept working it baclk and forth (to activate the trunk motor several times), while forcefully pushing down and pulling up on the trunk lid and as I was about to give up, the lid popped open. I don't know why, because the plastic arm the plunger pushes against was broke clean off. Once the trunk is open, the repair is easy.

--Nate

PDJetta · Jun 6, 2012

forestrat said:
I know this thread is old as hell but I figured I'd share my experience.

Went to the hardware store and picked up a tube of JB weld putty.
Went to town. Problem solved.

http://youtu.be/aG8w4wmrGTg

At first I thought you glued the broken tab back on, and I was thinking, I bet it would break off again. So I took a look. Now I see you got a big wad of JB Weld for the plunger to push against. No way that will come loose. That is slick. Not pretty, but it is hidden. I think you saved about $40.

--Nate

Warthog · Jun 23, 2012

Trunk won't open, plastic part not broken

Jetta Sedan, 2000, TDI
Trunk failed to open using either key switch OR the switch in the driver's door. Took liner out and found the plastic part was NOT broken so "trunk-fix" not the answer.
Actuator ("motor") buzzes when electric switch is activated from both locations, so I bought a new actuator. Installed it today. New actuator acts like to "old" one. It buzzes but does not push the crank-arm to work the latch.
[BTW, the plastic thing that usually breaks is commonly called a BELLCRANK (in English, anyway)]

So the question: what next? Does the computer have anything to do with the trunk operation? You can guess that I am a bit peeved that the new actuator did not resolve the problem.

PS> Apologies to all if I was or should have answered anyone about anything. Had some computer problems and had to do some major messing around to get back onto the forum...

PDJetta · Jun 23, 2012

Is something binding or seized, preventing the actuator from pushing the crank arm? Try to manually push it and see if the linkage has normal motion.

--Nate

Warthog · Jun 24, 2012

PD, I took the old actuator apart. It really does have a little motor inside it! It is a cool, slot-car can motor with gobs of torque. Both the actuators work when I connected them directly to a 12v battery. The linkages work fine manually.
SO I hooked my VOM to the connector (for the actuator) in the trunk and had a friend work the switch in the driver's door. The relay under the dash makes 2 quick clicks, a pulse of voltage come thru but not enough duration to run the motor, and then zip; naught, nothing. Since I'm using a digital meter, the voltage only shows about 11.4 volts, it is so quick.
Now, it is obviously the relay...The relay is on the Auxilliary relay panel. It is supposed to have #79 stamped on top. It is supposed to be in position 2 on the upper panel, which makes it hard to get to without removing the panel..I'm going to try tho...I hate to work upside down under the dash when it's 98 outside!!

Will post results of this when more info is available. Has anyone ELSE had a problem with their Rear lid unlock relay?

Warthog · Jun 25, 2012

Continuation of "rear lid won't open"

Today I went under the dash and attempted to find the #79 relay. It's not there.
Then I checked the electronic version of the Bentley manual and discovered the rear lid unlock relay is NOT in the relay panel at position 2, relay #79 but is associated with the "Comfort Module". I see a black box above the relay panel that must be that.

Does this box come apart? Are there discrete relays inside it? It is a PITA to get to, so I'm asking before I root around for it. It looks like lots of stuff has to be unfastened to get hold of it.
I can get a replacement from a nearby parts-yard, but I'd like some discussion before I start this task. I hate to work upside down under the dash!

79TA7.6 · Jun 25, 2012

I am having the same problem. 2003 Jetta. I ordered a new actuator from BoraParts to find out it was not the actuator. The new one behaves identical to the old one. I tore the old actuator apart and found this motor you are talking about. When I hook up the wires to the actuator without the plunger the motor just spins with me not telling it to. When I hit the release, either from the door switch, my FOB, or the key in the trunk, the motor tries to stop for a brief second, then continues on turning. I am thinking relay too, but have not found where it could be. I will continue searching as this is just a little more than annoying.

79TA7.6 · Jun 25, 2012

Warthog said:
Today I went under the dash and attempted to find the #79 relay. It's not there.
Then I checked the electronic version of the Bentley manual and discovered the rear lid unlock relay is NOT in the relay panel at position 2, relay #79 but is associated with the "Comfort Module". I see a black box above the relay panel that must be that.

Does this box come apart? Are there discrete relays inside it? It is a PITA to get to, so I'm asking before I root around for it. It looks like lots of stuff has to be unfastened to get hold of it.
I can get a replacement from a nearby parts-yard, but I'd like some discussion before I start this task. I hate to work upside down under the dash!

I found this thread and they claimed a broken wire in the harness at the trunk hinge. I just went out and cut my rubber sheathing to expose the wires and they are correct. I have one broken wire and the other four have the insulation cracked. I have not tried to fix it yet as I am supposed to be working from home today. I am just doing this in between jobs. I suggest you take a look at yours.

Warthog · Jun 28, 2012

Have already checked for broken wires..NOT. anyhow a broken wire wouldn't pass current.
I have found another thread that discusses the "black-box" called the CCM. It does have relays inside it, but they are PC-board mounted relays, not an easily replacable plug-in thing.
The other thread actually was about doors that wouldn't unlock using the remote actuator, and some folks have replaced the relays.
I haven't found a post that lists the part number of the relays...I guess if you have a spare car and can get this module out to mess with it you can open it and find out what relay you need. Not good to do if it's your driver, and at the moment it's not home either!!
I'm sure someone has found a schematic of this black-box and listed the relays so I'm still hunting. For the time being, I put small things in the trunk thru the back seat to reduce stress on the key module (it takes a lot of grunt to manually work the latch from the outside and I don't want to break the key fob they are SO expensive!).
The old relay, #79, was a 40Amp relay, so obviously there's a substantial current to be carried, but they are available for around $12-15...I am a bit peeved that this "improvement" creats a PITA to repair!!
[ I have a '78 E150 van that has intermittent WW..there is a module that performs this function with a cheap internal relay too. ONCE I bought a replacement module, now I just change the relay and put the extra module on the shelf for the next time. Done this a least 6 times...but the replacemnt module DIDN'T cost $400 either!! These relays are really cheap when purchaced 10 at a time, which I did. ]

Am thinking seriously about straight-wiring the trunk switch to operate from the door and trunk and forget the remote function!! Each time something like this happens I step back further from buying a NEW car...

PDJetta · Jun 29, 2012

Warthog said:
Today I went under the dash and attempted to find the #79 relay. It's not there.
Then I checked the electronic version of the Bentley manual and discovered the rear lid unlock relay is NOT in the relay panel at position 2, relay #79 but is associated with the "Comfort Module". I see a black box above the relay panel that must be that.

Does this box come apart? Are there discrete relays inside it? It is a PITA to get to, so I'm asking before I root around for it. It looks like lots of stuff has to be unfastened to get hold of it.
I can get a replacement from a nearby parts-yard, but I'd like some discussion before I start this task. I hate to work upside down under the dash!

I just consulted my Bentley and looked at the 2000 MY ALH wiring diagram. There is a ground wire (connection in driver's door wiring harness) that goes first to the switch in the door that you use to unlock the trunk (wire is .5 mm and brown) and then the ground wire goes to the switch that the key turns (on the driver's inside door pannel) to lock out the trunk release switch (wire is .5 mm and brown/blue). From there, the ground wire (.5 mm green/brown) goes to terminal 21 on the 23-terminal comfort convenience module. The positive power for the trunk motor comes from pin 20 of the 23-pin convenience module and goes to the trunk motor. That wire is .5 mm and blue. The ground for the trunk motor comes from from a ground connection in the rear lid wiring harness.

So the first ground wire I mentioned is not the ground power to the motor, but a switching ground for the convience module to cause it to switch the positive power on and off. There is no realy for the trunk motor shown in the wiring diagram. There may be one in the convience module for it, but its not replaceable (or not meant to be replaced). The convience module is behind the dashboard, driver's side, according to Bentley.

So, I would try applying a ground to the convience module side of the trunk lockout switch and see if that causes the trunk motor to operate. If that makes the trunk motor operate, either one of the switches is bad or the ground wire is broken). If the motor still does not work, I would check for positive power out from pin 20 of the convience module as the trunk switch is pulled. If not, I guess the convience module is bad. If you do have power, then the wiring to the trunk motor is bad, either its ground wire or the positive wire from the convenience module.

--Nate

Warthog · Jun 30, 2012

Yeah, PD. I've discovered pin 20 is the "power OUT" from the CCM. I get a pulse of current there when the switch (door) is actuated. Same effect at the terminal at the trunk end of the wire; the red/blue wire.
I can hear the relay operating in the CCM...it just won't stay pulled-in long enough to operate the latch motor.
I started another thread devoted to the CCM. Hope someone has taken one apart and noted the various relays, functions and position on the "green" board. As I mentioned earlier, I have replaced these little suckers (in other modules) before.
What man has build, Woman can fix. I don't have to enjoy it tho. Only the beer afterwards.
Maybe we should call it the "IN-convenience module"?

79TA7.6 · Jul 2, 2012

Warthog said:
Have already checked for broken wires..NOT. anyhow a broken wire wouldn't pass current.
I have found another thread that discusses the "black-box" called the CCM. It does have relays inside it, but they are PC-board mounted relays, not an easily replacable plug-in thing.
The other thread actually was about doors that wouldn't unlock using the remote actuator, and some folks have replaced the relays.
I haven't found a post that lists the part number of the relays...I guess if you have a spare car and can get this module out to mess with it you can open it and find out what relay you need. Not good to do if it's your driver, and at the moment it's not home either!!
I'm sure someone has found a schematic of this black-box and listed the relays so I'm still hunting. For the time being, I put small things in the trunk thru the back seat to reduce stress on the key module (it takes a lot of grunt to manually work the latch from the outside and I don't want to break the key fob they are SO expensive!).
The old relay, #79, was a 40Amp relay, so obviously there's a substantial current to be carried, but they are available for around $12-15...I am a bit peeved that this "improvement" creats a PITA to repair!!
[ I have a '78 E150 van that has intermittent WW..there is a module that performs this function with a cheap internal relay too. ONCE I bought a replacement module, now I just change the relay and put the extra module on the shelf for the next time. Done this a least 6 times...but the replacemnt module DIDN'T cost $400 either!! These relays are really cheap when purchaced 10 at a time, which I did. ]

Am thinking seriously about straight-wiring the trunk switch to operate from the door and trunk and forget the remote function!! Each time something like this happens I step back further from buying a NEW car...

You are correct, a broken wire will not pass current. All that I can tell you is on my car when I took the actuator apart, I basically had a motor all by it's lonesome, and hooked it up the motor would turn all by itself. I would hit the trunk release, either at the switch or the fob, and the motor would stop spinning for a brief second, then start spinning again. When I cut the rubber from around the wire harness, right where it bends when the trunk is closing, I found that one wire was completely broke in two, two wires were being held in place by two or three strands of wire, and the other two wires had cracked insulation.

If you have not actually cut the rubber wire protector where is bends then I would give it a try. I think the wire that was broken may have been making enough of a connection to make the motor act funny.

Warthog · Jul 3, 2012

Trunk latch works now!

Read post in the thread "CCM compatability" .

Speedster · Jan 11, 2014

Intermittent Trunk Solenoid

My trunk lid solenoid is acting in an intermittent fashion. It opens sometimes, but mostly will not. It all started when I had the trunk open and the wind caught it and it slammed shut. When I operate the trunk release in the driver door, the dash light will flash.

I took the trunk lid liner off to check the solenoid for power. The connector coming in reads about 9.5v until the release is pulled, at which time the reading drops to close to zero. My thought was that one of the wires in the harness was broken, but I just used my key in the trunk latch and the solenoid operated. I tried it again, and the solenoid would not function.

The trunk slamming shut is the source of the problem, but I do not know what occurred to cause this intermittent operation. Any ideas? Also, I cannot figure out how to reconnect the release cable back onto the emergency handle in the trunk liner. I had to remove it several years ago to remedy a loose solenoid bracket, and had no problem then reconnecting the cable, but cannot remember what I did.

79TA7.6 · Jan 11, 2014

When I had my troubles it was one of the larger wires that was broke in half. My trunk would not open with the key in the trunk to operate the solenoid, I had to turn it far enough to hit the manual release in the trunk latch. I would assume you still have a wire issue. The trunk slamming shut likely made the wire move enough to make this an intermittent issue.

Speedster · Jan 12, 2014

Thanks for the reply on the wire. It does sound likely. I am going out now in this 60 degree weather to replace the trunk lift supports. They should eliminate the slamming issue. I will check the wiring, since I would think that there should be 12v at the solenoid connector.

Speedster · Jan 12, 2014

Mystery solved

I installed the new lift supports so that the trunk lid stays up, even in the Kansas wind. Then, I looked at how the wiring ran from the solenoid. It goes out of the trunk lid through a grommet on the lower left corner when the lid is open. There is about a 6 inch run that is unsupported before it goes onto a piece behind the lift support. This 6 inch run is encased in a thick rubber tube. As I slowly closed the trunk lid, I could see that in the middle of this 6 inch run, the wire tube went from straight into a 90 degree bend. The rubber tube was even split at that point. I opened up the rubber tube to find one wire broke and two others with split insulation at that point.

After some consideration, I decided to use an inch long butt connector to splice the broken wire back together, which I figured would act as a splint for the other two wires and keep the entire bundle from bending at that point again. I wrapped the rubber tube back closed with electrical tape. Job finished and the release works good again.

I did find out how to attach the emergency handle cable to the handle and then reinstall the trunk liner, but cannot describe the procedure.

79TA7.6 · Jan 13, 2014

Good to hear. People always get stumped on the trunk latch issue because it does not seem possible for the wires to break, but they do. They can be a pain to fix too.

ColoradoZ28 · Jan 13, 2014

Trunk will open. However opened/closed switch gets confused

2003 Jetta. Two problems with trunk open mechanism.
1) Door switch would not pop trunk latch. Fixed - wiring harness from body to lid was worn and one of the wires was broken. All wires in harness from body to lid now appear OK.
2) Occassionally the "door open" indicator lights up when all doors and trunk are closed. I'm fairly sure this is a complaint about the trunk. Symptoms occur when the weather is colder. When working correctly I can open and close the trunk and the switch appears to be working, as indicated by the dash indicator.
I've copied the picture of the trunk lid mechanism below. Where is the opened/closed switch? Which color wire is use for this purpose? What is the logic for the switch (signal +12V when opened and 0V for closed)?
Thanks

[/QUOTE]

Trunk won't open

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