1Z/AHU Billet CCV drain plates, shift knobs, and custom machining

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Hey guys, I'm Charlie from Legacy Mold and Tool. We're a small machine/tool shop located in Bardstown, KY and have been in business since 1997. Since I've been with this company I've starting developing products to benefit my own vehicles - including my B4 Passat. I'm going to list a few things that I currently offer, and also discuss some things I'd like to bring to market later.

Updated 3/21/23

Products I currently offer:

Turbo Inlet Flanges for the Baby Garrett turbo. Can be machined with any preferred inlet diameter for welding in a tube, clamping on a silicone fernco, etc. $110 shipped in the US with new O ring and mounting bolts. Link to development thread with more info.



Billet serpentine belt tensioners. $175 for the whole thing assembled with a brand new bearing installed and ready to bolt on. Won't have a new bolt, so you'll want to keep that. ;)



Billet aluminum coolant flanges for the 1z/AHU engine. These replace the stock plastic part that tends to crack periodically - OEM part 028121132A. No more worries of reliability! Please PM me directly if you want to place an order. Price is currently $225 shipped for the kit. It will come with both hose barbs, bolts, and an O-ring. It will be delivered entirely assembled with liquid thread sealant on the hose barbs and ready for immediate installation.

More details can be found here.



Billet CCV drain plate for the 1Z/AHU/AFN engine. This will replace the stock plastic drain tube which tends to break periodically. It comes with an O-ring and two mounting bolts. Price is $35 shipped per item. I make two versions - one with a tapped hole, and one without. Just specify which one you need.
An installation example can be found here.



Billet shift knobs - all types available for $75 shipped. Standard engraving is included (shift pattern, TDI/VW logo, etc.) Custom engraving is available, starting at $25. Currently the only vehicle I can immediately provide a shift knob for is a B4 Passat or vehicle with an M12x1.5 stick thread. If you want a shift knob for a different model, please PM me - I'm willing to develop products for any generation.




We are a fully-capable machine shop with:
Hurco CNC Mill
Prototrak CNC Lathe
Wire EDM
Sinker/Ram EDM
Surface Grinders
Heat Treating oven
We work with all kinds of materials, and are open to quote custom jobs. If you have a specific product you'd like to see us build in the future, please send me a PM for details.

Here's a link to our Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/LegacyMoldandTool
 
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thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Coolant Flange... that's interesting!

Do either of you have a ruined one you could send me to prototype? I'm not really sure where this part is on my car, and I'd rather not have to remove it. haha I don't exactly recognize it, either. But I'm sure it would be easy enough to machine a flat plate at least, similar to the CCV plate.

EDIT: John, thanks for the shout-out in the B4 forum - I appreciate the added publicity!
 
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Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
I have one I can send you since it was just removed. But, would you be better off taking dimensions from a CRAP one or an OEM one? I just ordered 2 OEM ones from a dealer and most of the ones you find out there being sold are CRAP.
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Most definitely, the OEM part would be the best candidate for reverse-engineering. Since you're willing to take a plunge with me here, I'd be pleased to send you a finished part free of charge once we're done. Of course, I may also have to send you a few prototypes along the way to make sure it's sufficient. Could you post some pictures of where this is located so I can get a better idea of its function?
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
Wow, that is nice of you to do that, thanks!

It's right between the 3 & 4 injectors, at the end of the upper radiator hose.

Here is the old one with the new one in place.




A different perspective:




And this is where is mounts on the head, just a flat surface.

 
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thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Ah, it was right in front of me the whole time and I couldn't see it!

I think this could be done easily enough. May have to do some welding for the extra ports, but overall I think it's entirely possible. I'll be able to do more critical thinking about it once a part arrives that I can examine more closely. ;)
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
It appears to have four ports:

Straight-through hole for the main radiator hose. That's easy, just bore a hole through the middle.
I'll probably drill and tap a 1/8 NPT hole for the coolant return line, as it's not an exceptionally critical feature.
The Lower hose and Sensor may require machined and welded bungs in order to work properly.
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
I can send you off the bad one now so you can formulate an attack plan and as soon as an OEM one arrives I'll send it off as well. I'd be curious to see the dimension differences.
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
I can send you off the bad one now so you can formulate an attack plan and as soon as an OEM one arrives I'll send it off as well. I'd be curious to see the dimension differences.
That would be fine by me, sir. Really the only important thing will be O-ring size and bolt spacing. Everything else is kinda gonna be modified by me for easy of machining. Stand by for a shipping address.

I would think the lower hose could be oriented at a 90° angle and moved further out to fit better. The sensor bung would require some thought though.
Perhaps so, but from what I'm seeing it would probably put a kink in the hose to alter things very much. You know more about these cars than I do, though. haha

I don't think the sensor will be too much of a hard time. It will just need to be bored to a proper diameter to snugly fit the O-ring and have some slots milled in the side to accept the retaining clip.
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
I'm not machinist and don't play one on TV, so I have no concept of how you do things on that level. I'm just saying there is some variability with some of the connections that may make your job easier.
 

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
nice stuff!! subscribed! i've always wanted a nice machined ccv breather flange as well as the various coolant flanges... but metal, not crappy plastic. :)
 

Sprocket

Sprockette's hubby
Joined
Nov 18, 2004
Location
MI
TDI
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit Eco Diesel, 2005 Passat Silverstone Grey, 1996 Passat Storm Grey
Put me down for the cylinder head coolant flange as well once they are available!
 

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
put me down for a couple CCV block flanges. i'll pm you later
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Got some new stuff cooking for today. Brought in one my new junkyard window regulators to reverse-engineer the plastic sliders.

These things are the weak spot in our window regulators. And apparently you have to buy a whole new regulator just because one breaks.


In order to replace these, you'll have to get creative with the removal of the old ones. But I believe it will be worth the trouble, considering you should never have to replace your regulator again once you install these aluminum sliders.




This is what I've come up with so far. Hopefully I'll have one finished by the end of the day to test out.
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
I got a couple of parts finished up earlier than I expected! I'm quite pleased with how they turned out.

I believe these would be best custom-fit to their individual regulator channels by the customer. This would prevent my making them too loose by mistake. Due to the internal radius of the channel, the edges of the aluminum sliders will need to be sanded down quite a bit to move freely - as you can see from the photos. I was able to fit it within two mintues using my air sander. I can go ahead and round off the edges quite a bit before I ship them, but leave them a tight fit.

Left - sanded to fit
Middle - from the mill, not deburred yet





And installed in the regulator





The only possible issue I can see popping up here is some light rattling, but I think they will fit too snugly to rattle very much. What I really need is somebody who can do beta testing for me, because goodness knows I don't want to take my regulator back apart until I actually have to. :eek:
 

deejaaa

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2007
Location
Baytown, Texas
TDI
FOR SALE, 2002 Jetta GLS, 5 speed
those sliders look great. hope i have to never change mine though. nice machining.
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Today I did some redesigning on the window guides to make the retaining clips fit better. I made the top an oval instead of having flats, and beveled the edge where the clip goes in. I've made three new ones like this, and like it quite a bit better. There is much more positive engagement, and the clip snaps in more snugly. Along with that, I adjusted the depth of the center hole to not have as much wiggle room. It still moves freely, but doesn't move in and out any.

 
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