Dried coolant found on oil pan
- Thread starter compu_85
- Start date
jmodge
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Location
- Greenville, MI
- TDI
- 2001 alh Jetta, RC2 w/.205's 5speed daily summer commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/.216's winter cruiser, 1996 Tacoma ALh
They can stick in there pretty good, I used a pry bar behind the head from the flywheel side to twist and work mine out
sixmenn
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2014
- Location
- West Michigan
- TDI
- 2001 VW Jetta TDI manual transmission , 2000 VW Jetta GLS TDI manual transmission
I just did this job the other day. I had purchased ID Parts’ High mileage TB kit, and it came with this o ring.
I knew I have had a coolant leak for the past couple of years, and mistakenly kept replacing the larger thermostat coolant pipe, thinking it was the culprit. Once I got that O ring in my kit, a lightbulb finally went on and I knew I had to check it out. Sure nuff, it was leaking.
The O ring that ID Parts sent me was the fatter one. The job certainly WAS a major PITA, but I got it back together, only to find that it still leaks. When I reinstalled the pipe, it took a TON of force to reinsert the pipe. Did I perhaps have the wrong O ring ( even though I gave ID Parts my VIN)?
Looking at the pipe now ( it’s still installed, gonna tackle it again tomorrow), it looks like the O ring “rolled” during reinstallation, as I can see a bit of it poking out where the pipe enters the block.
Wrong O ring, maybe? Is there a safe way to lube that O ring up to ease its passage into the block? If the fat one doesn’t work, will the round one work?
(Think your O ring job sucked? I have to do mine TWICE!
)
I knew I have had a coolant leak for the past couple of years, and mistakenly kept replacing the larger thermostat coolant pipe, thinking it was the culprit. Once I got that O ring in my kit, a lightbulb finally went on and I knew I had to check it out. Sure nuff, it was leaking.
The O ring that ID Parts sent me was the fatter one. The job certainly WAS a major PITA, but I got it back together, only to find that it still leaks. When I reinstalled the pipe, it took a TON of force to reinsert the pipe. Did I perhaps have the wrong O ring ( even though I gave ID Parts my VIN)?
Looking at the pipe now ( it’s still installed, gonna tackle it again tomorrow), it looks like the O ring “rolled” during reinstallation, as I can see a bit of it poking out where the pipe enters the block.
Wrong O ring, maybe? Is there a safe way to lube that O ring up to ease its passage into the block? If the fat one doesn’t work, will the round one work?
(Think your O ring job sucked? I have to do mine TWICE!
)
PakProtector
Veteran Member
lube that puppy well. Something inert...Krytox comes to mind...$10 of grease for a $1 o-ring sounds bonkers, but it seems the major expense here is TIME and pain doing the job... 
Douglas
Douglas
JETaah
Vendor , w/Business number
What did the oring that you took out look like?I just did this job the other day. I had purchased ID Parts’ High mileage TB kit, and it came with this o ring.
I knew I have had a coolant leak for the past couple of years, and mistakenly kept replacing the larger thermostat coolant pipe, thinking it was the culprit. Once I got that O ring in my kit, a lightbulb finally went on and I knew I had to check it out. Sure nuff, it was leaking.
The O ring that ID Parts sent me was the fatter one. The job certainly WAS a major PITA, but I got it back together, only to find that it still leaks. When I reinstalled the pipe, it took a TON of force to reinsert the pipe. Did I perhaps have the wrong O ring ( even though I gave ID Parts my VIN)?
Looking at the pipe now ( it’s still installed, gonna tackle it again tomorrow), it looks like the O ring “rolled” during reinstallation, as I can see a bit of it poking out where the pipe enters the block.
Wrong O ring, maybe? Is there a safe way to lube that O ring up to ease its passage into the block? If the fat one doesn’t work, will the round one work?
(Think your O ring job sucked? I have to do mine TWICE!
It is 2 different pipes with narrow and wider gaps to accommodate the 2 different orings. Order one of each and you have it covered.
sixmenn
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2014
- Location
- West Michigan
- TDI
- 2001 VW Jetta TDI manual transmission , 2000 VW Jetta GLS TDI manual transmission
It was the wide kind, and that’s what I replaced the first time.
I went to my local VW parts store and bought another one today with the idea of putting it in. But I ran into a dilemma:
I read elsewhere in this thread that the underlying cause of the seal going bad is exposure to diesel fuel from some part of the injection pump that is leaking. So before I started the disassembly I looked, and sure enough there is puddled diesel in some areas below the IP.
I’d like to take care of this issue now. Any advice would be very welcome.
From what I can see from the Bentley diagrams, there are replaceable seals on:
-each of the four injection lines,
- the cold start injector
- the timing control cover
- fuel shutoff valve
- the supply line from filter
- the return line to the filter
the only one that seems to be leaking is the timing control cover. (It is also the lowest point in the IP). Placing my fingers under there they come up wet and it smells like diesel.
For the life of me I cannot find the cold start injector, so I can’t rule this out as a potential leak spot.
1. Is there anywhere else I should look for leaks?
2. Is the removal of the IP necessary for any of this?
JETaah
Vendor , w/Business number
I don't think that I've ever encountered a leak at the N108 (cold start injector). The pumps came with Viton green orings in this position and they usually hold up very well in comparison to the black orings used elsewhere on the pump. The black ones will flatten out and crack with time and miles.
The N108 is right under the pump head where the injector lines attach. Its behind the plate that attaches the back of the pump to the accessory bracket.
sixmenn
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2014
- Location
- West Michigan
- TDI
- 2001 VW Jetta TDI manual transmission , 2000 VW Jetta GLS TDI manual transmission
In your experience, is replacing these seals sufficient to stop the leaking of fuel from the IP? Is the timing control cover a common leak spot? Anywhere else I should look?
most importantly, do I need to remove the IP (and go through all the hassle of timing belt removal/ cam/crank locks) to fix the leak(s)?
csstevej
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2004
- Location
- north nj
- TDI
- 2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
Look at diesel geek.com has these seal kits . You also need to purchase the special three sided tool or make your own to get one of the bolts out…..VCDS is a must to fine tune your IQ afterwards.
dieselgeek.com
There are videos that help you to do this , these are the most common areas.
99% of the time these stop the leaks…..
Deluxe Injection Pump Seal Kit for TDI
Don't replace that leaky VW injection pump, reseal it. A ton of customers have fixed their leaking TDI injector pump's quantity adjuster seals with this kit!
dieselgeek.com
There are videos that help you to do this , these are the most common areas.
99% of the time these stop the leaks…..
BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
Although I've read some seals can be replaced in situ, I would suggest removing the pump from the car.
csstevej
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2004
- Location
- north nj
- TDI
- 2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
Bob it’s not hard to do this in the car unless your changing one of the bottom solenoids.
I’ve done several and fairly easy.
I prefer to do it this way as not to mess with timing….just my opinion .
I’ve done several and fairly easy.
I prefer to do it this way as not to mess with timing….just my opinion .
JETaah
Vendor , w/Business number
I always do it on the bench when the pump head o ring is involved. QA and top cover, not so much.
Most of the time there is so much crud around the pump head that the risk of some making it into the pump is a deterrent.
Most of the time there is so much crud around the pump head that the risk of some making it into the pump is a deterrent.
sixmenn
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2014
- Location
- West Michigan
- TDI
- 2001 VW Jetta TDI manual transmission , 2000 VW Jetta GLS TDI manual transmission
Just curious: I’ve never had a fuel leak in the car that I’ve ever smelled or seen before today. The car has been in my barn “on the hoist” for the better part of the last month. I’ve had an extra vehicle handy and have just been taking my time doing everything I can think of to it. So far I’ve done the high mileage timing kit from IDParts, plus new motor mounts, water pump, intake manifold cleaning and gasket.
During the TB change, I removed the fuel filter lines, and left the fuel lines open and disconnected for about a week or so. And then today I noticed fuel for the first time in the area under my IP. Is it possible that I don’t actually have a fuel leak but rather it has just leaked fuel due to the fuel lines being disconnected?? I don’t want to dig into the IP if I don’t need to…
During the TB change, I removed the fuel filter lines, and left the fuel lines open and disconnected for about a week or so. And then today I noticed fuel for the first time in the area under my IP. Is it possible that I don’t actually have a fuel leak but rather it has just leaked fuel due to the fuel lines being disconnected?? I don’t want to dig into the IP if I don’t need to…