Please help!!!! Tdi swap into 93 Toyota pick no throttle

jackfolstam

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Joined
Oct 14, 2016
Location
CA
TDI
MkI Rabbit ALH swap
Thanks for getting back to me. I will recheck my connections. I did do a pin to pin continuity test according to the Bentley for an 03 Jetta. Could you tell what the minimum items needed for the conversion. I.e. I have the egr not connected/bypassed. Also a few of those codes mean no response from the instrument cluster also no response from transmission control unit. Obviously these are not installed. How do I eliminate those.
I don't know. Fast forward diagram?
I've only dealt with a 98 New Beetle and 99.5 Jetta harnesses. I don't have a cluster or transmission hooked up, and when I scan with VCDS I only have the 'P1617 no glow plug light' code.
Do you need to do any trick work because of an immobilizer or similar device? I did not.

Also is there a way to test the fuel injector pump? For all I know it could be getting the signal to rev it just isn't. Again thanks for getting back.
Not sure. Do you know the history of it?
 

jackfolstam

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2016
Location
CA
TDI
MkI Rabbit ALH swap
Also when I ohmed out the wires going from the ecu To the plug on the pedal i got a high resistance on the white blue wire? It was about 30 ohms when all the rest were 0.0 to 0.4, could that affect it?
There's two white blue wires going to the ECM, one is the CEL and the other is for the pedal (on my 1998 wire diagram). Did you use the right one?
 

Tdiyotta

Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2017
Location
Pennsylvania
TDI
1.9 tdi alh
Ok so i have so good news and a lot more questions. I got the motor to finally rev!!! so here is what happend i was dinging so more just trying to find something that would help and then i came along this thread http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=228471&highlight=throttle+position&page=2. and i went down through and read it and i thought what could it hurt to try it? so i unhooked the kick down switch and the WOT switch and presto it worked. but now the only other problem keeping me from finally being able to enjoy all my hard work i that the motor will not idle down? now obviously this is because the kick down switch is unhooked so i tried to hook it back up like the thread said but when i did it i would loose throttle again and it would go back to the 1200 pm idle just like i have had for the last 2 months. but if i leave them unhooked and use the throttle it will work but it will idle at 1500 rpm when im done using the throttle. so now im turning back to all the helpful people on this thread to help me with the last little step so i can finally drive my pride and joy again!!
 

Nevada_TDI

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 17, 2008
Location
Reno, sort of...
TDI
2001 Jetta TDI
Out of my personal ignorance here is a question: could you use a diode of some sort, or you you use a Normally Open roller type switch attached to the throttle? Every time the throttle pedal moved off of "idle" you would get revs and when off of the throttle your idle would come back. I realize this is likely not the "proper" way to solve your problem, but electrically speaking the "new" circuit should get you where you want to be.
 

Tdiyotta

Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2017
Location
Pennsylvania
TDI
1.9 tdi alh
Another question I have is do I NEED the brake switch hooked up? I see a lot of forums with people that have had no throttle response and the break switch was there problem? Now it seems like all of those forums it wasn't a swap it was just in the car but if my brake switch isn't there could it cause it to think the brake is on? Like I said I have it Rev'ing but I have to have 2 wires unhooked for it to do so and it won't idle down it idles at 1500 rpm. I guess what I'm asking is when you guys did your swaps were you able to get rid of the brake switch or did you have to have it?
 

Nevada_TDI

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 17, 2008
Location
Reno, sort of...
TDI
2001 Jetta TDI
It sounds as though there is a wire looking for a switch, sometimes our tdi's have switches wired "backwards" to what we would think is normal. Maybe the switch you need is a brake switch that is Normally Closed.
 

jackfolstam

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2016
Location
CA
TDI
MkI Rabbit ALH swap
I didn't delete any sensors like the MAF and stuff, and my problem without the brake switch was the "left foot braking" problem found on only the early years of the ALH, where the ECU would limit throttle response the first time I would go to accelerate every time I started the engine. But only the first time. I've experienced limp mode and my engine does not limit to 1500 or 1200 RPM, it limits to something much higher than that I'm sure, or maybe it limits fuel or boost, but it still goes pretty quick in limp mode.
 

jackfolstam

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2016
Location
CA
TDI
MkI Rabbit ALH swap
how is your pedal harness connected to the engine harness ?
My harness was uncut from the ECU to the pedal. I got pretty much the whole harness from the donor, unmolested. The stock blue connector has all of the pedal wires. All of the wires that come out of the blue connector go to the pedal. Do you want individual pinouts? I have a digital copy of the Bentley for MkIV Jetta/Golf/GTI.

I spoke with my friend with a Caddy ALH swap from a 98 Beetle, he said he has an early style pedal from the Beetle that is adjustable.
 
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Tdiyotta

Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2017
Location
Pennsylvania
TDI
1.9 tdi alh
OK can anyone post the ohm reading that they get from there throttle. I think that my problem is in the throttle specifically with the closed throttle switch but ban someone ohm out there throttle at the blue plug without the throttle plugged in so you don't get any back ground resistance and post it for me to compare mine to. Thank you!!!!!!
 

jackfolstam

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2016
Location
CA
TDI
MkI Rabbit ALH swap
I might be able to Friday. Can you tell me the colors of the two wires to probe?
 

Tdiyotta

Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2017
Location
Pennsylvania
TDI
1.9 tdi alh
So, sorry for not posting for awhile but i have great news i found the problem. i had the wrong throttle!!!!!! Apparently when i called my local VW dealer they gave me the part number for the gas model even after i specifically said its was a TDI:mad: But through a lot of research and playing around i found the right throttle and plugged it in and presto it worked:cool: So ive been driving it around and let me just say it feels GREAT to be back behind the wheel of the yota especially with the tdi rumbling underneath the hood. But as life goes there is one more hurdle i have to jump so now when im driving it i can drive down the road and it will be running GREAT and then out of the blue it will just lose boost? From what i have researched it actually going into limp mode this time because when it stops boosting if i shut it off and start it again it will boost for awhile again and then cut boost again but it doesn't do it at the same time every time? i hooked it up to VCDS and there is no codes for boost? so whatever is happening it isn't throwing a code? any ideas would be very appreciated.:D
 

jackfolstam

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2016
Location
CA
TDI
MkI Rabbit ALH swap
Sweet, glad to hear it's working.
My car does that too after installing a newer version of the turbo, but it has some wear. The vane actuator lever inside the turbo has some play and so the computer can't precisely control the boost, since the vanes jump around. Using Torque Lite (free) which is a smart phone app, and a bluetooth OBDII device ($12 Amazon), it can tell me 'pending' codes, and whenever it goes into the partial limp mode, it shows a boost deviation code.

I bet if you drive around for a half hour with the low power rather than restarting, it will store the boost deviation code.

Edit:
Make sure you adjust the vane actuator correctly: put a Mityvac on the vacuum can thing at the turbo and adjust it to start moving around 3psi.

Make sure there is no play in the rod and spherical connector on the vacuum can thing.

Put vacuum on the can thing and make sure it holds vacuum.

If you have VCDS you can do a test, I'm pretty sure one of them is the vane control. Do this after checking the can thing, which will tell you if the electric vacuum actuator is bad.

You can also log actual boost and commanded boost and see if they match or deviate.

Check for boost leaks. Does it smoke black when there is no boost and you floor it? That would mean there is a boost leak.

Check for exhaust leaks pre turbo.
 
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Tdiyotta

Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2017
Location
Pennsylvania
TDI
1.9 tdi alh
So i figured out the boost problem, it turns out that the n75 was going bad because eventually it just gave up the ghost and stopped working all together and when i replaced it i stopped having the cutout of boost. but now i have very bad boost surge but right now im more concerned about getting the glow plugs to work i always had the glow plug code bit i just assumed it was from not having a light hooked up but with the cold winter i pa we are having it is very apparent that they are not turning on at all. the code i am getting is p1619 i have checked all the grounds and they are getting a Good connection and i have the control power the one thing that confuses me is i am getting battery voltage coming from the ecm to the relay for the signal wire. i have the 9 pin relay and any info i have found on the glow plug relays is for the 7 pin but i did find the signal wire for the 7 pin should be 5 volts so if the 9 pin is also 5 volts and the ecm is outputting battery voltage could that be the problem? I have checked the glow plus and when i first ohm'd them out they all read 0 ohms? so i removed one and hooked it up to the battery and it worked and then i checked it again and it read 0.9 and as it cooled off it went back down to 0? But any help with why the relay is not triggering the glow plus would be great!! and PS i hooked up a glow plug light yesterday and with the coolant temp sensor unhooked it lights for 30 second right and i turn on the key and then flashes.
 
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