Nevada_TDI
Top Post Dawg
My apologies, I meant to note the gallons: 16.8 to the neck.
I do know he meant "stick", I just couldn't let that one pass by.
I do know he meant "stick", I just couldn't let that one pass by.
My apologies, I meant to note the gallons: 16.8 to the neck.
I do know he meant "stick", I just couldn't let that one pass by.
I saw it listed for $249 so I jumped on that deal. Picked up the analog boost sensor for another 30ish and the new south performance boost gauge tubing kit too. Hope to get to that installation tomorrow.
Got it from Idparts, it was in the open box & clearance section, but looked untouched as best I could determine. Pre-installed in a jetta vent, at that price, I assumed I had misread at first.
So far I like it pretty well. I think in my messing with the buttons and plugging/unplugging things I caused the boost gauge function to only display vacuum. I'm sure it will be a non issue, just need to read up on the device's functions.
It appears that a casualty of the installation is/was my headlight switch or gauge light dimmer. Something got tweaked in the removal and reinstallation such that the gauge lights will sometimes not come on with the headlight switch. Both switch and dimmer are original to my knowledge, and this may be the excuse I need to put in a "Euro" style switch and wire up some rock lights to the fog light position.
LOL...here we go..I ran the tank completely dry. Unplanned yes, but it happened.
Post #3834 says something about "dicking" to a phone, how does one do that?
There it is!I think he meant "stick" as "Torque" is an app for smartphones.
..... yepMy apologies, I meant to note the gallons: 16.8 to the neck.
I do know he meant "stick", I just couldn't let that one pass by.
I use swipe on my phone, so the action is very similar.... No keystrokes, more like a missed angle.I can see how he might hit the d key instead of the s key, but not having the t keystroke register afterwards takes the cake!
Good idea with the tape, lol. I'll try that. I wonder what stereo head units might have similar features.... It's just so pricey for me.Did the quantity adjuster seals today, hammer modded to 6.0 mg.
Airflow with the P3Cars gauge isn't bad, the reduced vent area seems to act like a thumb pressed on a garden hose, increasing velocity out of the vent, making it feel more effective when directed at the driver's arm/face. A similarly placed strip of tape would be a cheap and easy simulation to determine livability.
I saw it listed for $249 so I jumped on that deal. Picked up the analog boost sensor for another 30ish and the new south performance boost gauge tubing kit too. Hope to get to that installation tomorrow.
Filled up Saturday night, don't have the exact miles and gallons at the moment but it was around 755 miles on 16.5 gallons, or 45.8 MPG. Also the most i've ever put in my tank! I knew I was cutting it close. Tank before that was 45.7, before that was 46.0I'll report when I fuel up towards the end of the week what my MPG was.
Playing with fire! haha I went to 15.8 gallons last couple weeks. Hey what does the small fuel mean in "Malone stage 4 Small Fuel"? ..and what clutch do you have?Filled up Saturday night, don't have the exact miles and gallons at the moment but it was around 755 miles on 16.5 gallons, or 45.8 MPG. Also the most i've ever put in my tank! I knew I was cutting it close. Tank before that was 45.7, before that was 46.0
I did some playing with the new setup but most of this tank was my normal, conservative driving. Super pleased with the setup now.
Yes I was, about 40 miles past the fuel light, I think. And the way it was explained to me, this version of Malone's stage 4 fuels harder off boost. It fuels more aggressive down low in the rpms. I didn't ask for anything special, Malone sent the regular stage 4 and the stage 4 "small fuel" and told me to try both and keep whichever I liked better.Playing with fire! haha I went to 15.8 gallons last couple weeks. Hey what does the small fuel mean in "Malone stage 4 Small Fuel"? ..and what clutch do you have?
Yes actually! Do you know if it will work ok with the Euro electrics?? It's designed for a Landrover setup i think...Figit, if you're talking about the Reese 118710, you better hurry as there are only 20 left!
Oh cool! I wish I could get a bigger tune but I can't afford a clutch. I'm contemplating running a higher stage tune and upgrading the clutch later but I'm not 100% I can keep my foot out of it.Yes I was, about 40 miles past the fuel light, I think. And the way it was explained to me, this version of Malone's stage 4 fuels harder off boost. It fuels more aggressive down low in the rpms. I didn't ask for anything special, Malone sent the regular stage 4 and the stage 4 "small fuel" and told me to try both and keep whichever I liked better.
Noticeable difference when building boost from an idle at wot, higher rpm felt the same. Normal acceleration and driving the small fuel felt more responsive so that's a big reason why I chose it.
And I've got a South Bend stage 2 endurance with a single mass flywheel. Good clutch. I'll update my sig to show that haha
Yes actually! Do you know if it will work ok with the Euro electrics?? It's designed for a Landrover setup i think...
Thank you! I didn't see the video but I did read the reviews. I purchased one yesterday and it should be on the way from Amazon now, I forgot to update here.Isn't that what it is designed for? To convert the 7 wire signals down to work with US 4 wire system? Check out this etrailer video:
https://www.etrailer.com/tv-Demo-Tow-Ready-Wiring-118710.aspx
And here are some customer reviews:
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/118710.html#prod-acc-onlyreviews
Thank you! I didn't see the video but I did read the reviews. I purchased one yesterday and it should be on the way from Amazon now, I forgot to update here.
I was afraid it may have needed a car that could switch the output or something (like a switch to disable certain lights or a relay change), nobody has said it was this easy! In fact, I got a suggestion to cut off my euro plug and replace it with the US 7pin....
Euro cars seperate sides for brake lights so perhaps it literally splices them together and ignores the rest lol.
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Maybe you need to spend a smidge more money
Above is the old broken bearing with off centered flywheel, making it so I couldn’t get into or out of gear.
Today, I got a new sb stage 2 daily smf with new trans with wavetrac and 3.16 r&p with cupra seat rear beam bushings and new dogbone, motor mount and trans mount. It has so much less noise and rattle, feels more planted and goes so much faster in each gear before shifts I feel it needs brake upgrade! It shifts smooth but still can catch and pop out of first and slam into reverse. I wonder if I neeed a shifting lesson or if maybe the cables are cocked. If I’m careful it shifts really nice but sometimes clunks or snags like it always did.
I recently added brass relay lever bushings, did the cable end bushings on mine, drove it for a few days and then added metal transmission/cable bracket bushings.The bracket bushings are convenient to install in the same operation as the cable ends. Each item was an incremental improvement, no miracles, but much improved overall.Thanks I already did that bushing kit first. All that’s left is the end links. So maybe a little more money... Sometimes I had to get out, shut car off, adjust the links so I could shift a couple gears. Almost ready for a tune, but it already seems too fast for itself. Still no car payment!
Hey thanks for that link! I'll pick one up before I close everything up! I forgot to get one. I may just stick my voltmeter in the plug though, same effectWell it does combine the brake light and turn signals into two wires instead of three and it also doesn't use the blue wire pin which is used for the trailer rear fog light in Europe so the convertor is essentially just like the flat 5 wire to 4 wire convertors.
BTW, you do have a flat tester like this one https://www.harborfreight.com/four-way-trailer-light-tester-66526.html to check the output of the adapter?
What switch in the hitch plug? Is this on the LandRover UK 7-pin to NA flat connector? Do you have a picture?Hey thanks for that link! I'll pick one up before I close everything up! I forgot to get one. I may just stick my voltmeter in the plug though, same effect
Do you have any idea what the switch does in the hitch plug on the car? I have two grey wires running to/from the switch that's activated by plugging something into the 7 pin receiver plug. I was guessing by the wiring that it's a fog light switch, maybe to disable the fogs when a trailer is attached?
Anyway, I switched my tails (one done so far) to Euro wiring so it will play nice with the Euro trailer wiring, and I've been wanting to do it for a while! I also did the 5 brake light mod.
Some good reading on LSD's - wavetrack included..........and how are you liking the wavetrac? I'm debating with myself whether to get one and install it when I do my clutch soon. I frequently have low traction scenarios where the full lock would be desirable... The Golf has been the only wheeled vehicle on quite a few logging tractor roads lately, everyone else drives on tracks
It's part of the AC electrics set, mounted on the car. it's got a simple switch to detect attachment of a trailer.What switch in the hitch plug? Is this on the LandRover UK 7-pin to NA flat connector? Do you have a picture?
Here is a link to the UK pinouts: https://www.towbarandtrailercentre.com/wiring-diagrams
Humboldt County, know anyone up my way?OK, Figit!
BTW, where in NorCal are you?
Humboldt County, know anyone up my way?
Oh nice! Quite a drive isn't it! Did you take the road out to the Lost Coast?Nope. Been through it a couple of times, though, via the PCH. As a founding member of the Sacramento Miata club, I just HAD to visit Samoa and eat at the cookhouse!
got a video?Installed a full 2.5in Buzzken exhaust to replace my existing falling apart system. Not really sure if I'm digging the sound yet. Kind of reminds me of a Subaru.