Automatic Transmission Fluid Change procedure

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Is there a "stop" for the red plastic drain/overflow tube? I was threading it in after changing the filter thing and putting the reservoir pan back on, and it suddenly got very easy to turn; I was worried that I was threading it right through the hole into the reservoir pan so I stopped turning.
Being that I drained off a lot of fluid afterward, I'm thinking maybe I didn't thread it in far enough (?).
 

simbolo

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2006
Location
USA
TDI
2002 VW Jetta
Is there a "stop" for the red plastic drain/overflow tube? I was threading it in after changing the filter thing and putting the reservoir pan back on, and it suddenly got very easy to turn; I was worried that I was threading it right through the hole into the reservoir pan so I stopped turning.
Being that I drained off a lot of fluid afterward, I'm thinking maybe I didn't thread it in far enough (?).
You should of turned it back out and inspected the plastic threads to see if there was any damage. The thing has a stop, be sure to thread it with a hex key gently with 2 fingers and not a ratchet or some other high torque method, this ensures when you hit the stop you will know it.
 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Yeah - when I pulled it out, it looked fine. And like I said, it went in fine as well, but then it got *really* easy (like the top part of the threads weren't in contact with anything anymore).
Anyway, thanks for the answer, I'm gonna go back out shortly and have another go at it.
 

simbolo

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2006
Location
USA
TDI
2002 VW Jetta
Yeah - when I pulled it out, it looked fine. And like I said, it went in fine as well, but then it got *really* easy (like the top part of the threads weren't in contact with anything anymore).
Anyway, thanks for the answer, I'm gonna go back out shortly and have another go at it.
whenever i change the atf i also change the filter so i have the pan off. i screw in the baffle while the pan is off the car so i can see both sides of the hole. it really helps to see how it goes in and where it stops to prevent any damage, but it goes in pretty deep before it stops
 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Yup - that'd be my course of action on future fluid changes as well.

Also, for those of you wondering what those silver little spacer/washers are for that came with your new rubber ATF pan gasket (as I did, before going ahead and putting them aside while I proceeded to install the new gasket sans washers), those are kind of important. They prevent you from compressing the gasket too much and tearing it, thus pouring brand new (and did I mention expensive?) ATF all over your nice driveway.

My stupidity sometimes astounds even me.
 

simbolo

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2006
Location
USA
TDI
2002 VW Jetta
Also, for those of you wondering what those silver little spacer/washers are for that came with your new rubber ATF pan gasket (as I did, before going ahead and putting them aside while I proceeded to install the new gasket sans washers), those are kind of important. They prevent you from compressing the gasket too much and tearing it, thus pouring brand new (and did I mention expensive?) ATF all over your nice driveway.
nice :rolleyes:, you didnt notice their placement in your original gasket that came with the car?
 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Like I said, I often astound myself with my own stupidity. I "noticed" them after I'd already crushed the rubber, trying to get to the 9 ft.lbs of torque. Yay me. :p
 

moparisthebest

New member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Location
Franklin, Ohio
TDI
2002 Jetta
If the engine and transmission are cold, outside temp about 45F (7.2C), and you take out the drain plug (not the red tube), and maybe half a quart to a quart comes out, how low if at all would you expect the transmission to be? It doesn't seem to slip when driving it, but I'm afraid it's low and it's slowly hurting the transmission or something (it's driven about 110 miles per weekday).
 

newbug

Member
Joined
May 27, 2009
Location
Jersey City, NJ
TDI
1984 Jetta, 1999 Beetle, 2002 Jetta, 2005 Passat Wagon
Changing Filter and Fluid

The photos and other items contained here are very good.
So I won't re-invent the wheel as to speak.
But I feel in many aspects ether things are omitted or just not made simple enough.
My transmission was jumping into gear for a day. When I was leaving to come home I seen fluid on the ground so I checked it and it was clear.
Upon coming to my home I seen a spot that was proof of a leak of some type.
So I jacked the car and seen it dripping.
Not knowing what to expect I removed the bottom cover and driver side lower cover.
Then not being able to identify the problem I removed the transmission cover shield to see the front of the transmission.
I seen a leak but wasn't able to say where it was until I touched the pan gasket.
The it dripped, I checked the 4 pan bolts one was loose.
Tightened and drip stopped.
When in and ordered Filter kit (Euro Parts Direct)(Filter Gasket and spacers), Fluid 5 liters, red cap and plug for trans (German Auto Parts).
Why because German was more expensive for filter and filter and gasket sold separate no spacers.
I was able to simply open the cap and used it again, think I could have used the plug to but was unsure if I would break them.

So here is my very quick explanation:

Remove lower cover and driver side lower panel.
Remove transmission shield.
Remove drain plug with pan under to catch oil.
After fluid stops use same allen key to remove red tube from inside same hole as plug.
Let drain fully.
Remove 4 pan bolts..10mm socket
Let drain in pan.
Pull down filter be careful as it just fell when I pulled mine splashed into pan of oil (made a mess).
Make sure you remove the old orange filter seal.
Use a dental hook or pull hook tool (harbor freight, dollar store whatever).
Clean all parts.
Install new filter.
Put on new gasket with spacers.
Put on pan tighten to 9 foot lbs or 108 inch pounds (harbor freight has cheap 1/4 inch torque wrench for about $13.00 on sale).
remove red safety cap with one of the hook tools.
Pry up slowly the filler cap.
Use a 3/4 inch heater hose about 2 feet long or longer with a cheap dollar store funnel (got both in Auto Zone).
Lube it a little and slide it over just a bit the filler tube.
Pour 3 liters (3000 cc fluid into the trans).
Level the car I used ramps in the front and jack stands in the back and a magnetic round level gauge with the pointer centered on the lower rocker panel.

Hook up your Vag Com start engine and let the trans temp (measuring block 005 get to at least 35 degrees Celsius.
While waiting check for leaks.
Then after temp up:

LEAVE THE ENGINE RUNNING (this is missing from most of the posts).
If you turn it off and check the fluid you will bee too low and use lots of fluid and maybe damage the transmission).

Went thru all the gears while holding the brake....
Remove the transmission oil pan plug if nothing comes out, plug it and add fluid.
Mine didn't leak any fluid.
I added 300 cc more.
Opened again nothing....closed again.
Added 300cc more opened then ran out quick then kind off jumped a bit.
Plugged it then.
Probably took 3500 cc total 3.5 liters.
Checked temp was 60 degrees celsius.
Ran a few more minutes checked for leaks (nothing).
Turned of car.
Reinstalled the panels good time to just look around for exhaust stuff, control arms, rubber CVT boots etc.
Jack stands out, drive off ramps.
Test Drive really shifted before (sometimes changes come slowly so when you do this you notice the big change quickly not like the slow deterioration factor).
Now clean up your mess and have a beer you deserve it.
That is what I am going to do right now......
Bye and good Luck.

Here is what I purchased:

German Auto Parts

01M321432A EACH 1 1 0 8.08 8.08
Plug, transmission fill tube
01M321435B EACH 1 1 0 3.04 3.04
Cap, transmission filler
1058206 EACH 1 1 0 62.50 62.50
Pentosin ATF 5L
Net Invoice: 73.62
Freight: 11.21
Sales Tax: 0.00
Invoice Total: 84.83


Euro Parts Direct

Order Detail
Purchased Items:
QtyDescriptionBrandSkuPriceTotal Vehicle:2002, Volkswagen, Jetta, 1A/t Screen Kit
packing Size: Piece; Per Car Qty:1
MEYLE 094 54006 500 $ 22.98 $ 22.98Subtotal: $ 22.98
Shipping - UPS Ground Residential: $ 9.95Sales Tax: $ 0.00Order Total: $ 32.93
 

H2O2H

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2006
Location
NJ
TDI
ALH
LEAVE THE ENGINE RUNNING (this is missing from most of the posts).


If you turn it off and check the fluid you will bee too low and use lots of fluid and maybe damage the transmission).
Vital info here.
1) Run the damn motor!!!

2) You don't, it will leak out as it did when you first drained it, why you will be too low.

3) Don't expect 3 liters or more, unless you drain the TC. I flushed my system twice and lost over a qt each time thinking I needed ~3.5 liters in it.

My master VW tech said it is usually under 3 liters, for just a flush. Don't know all you guys around going way over 3, but?
 
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simbolo

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2006
Location
USA
TDI
2002 VW Jetta
I added 300 cc more.
Opened again nothing....closed again.
Added 300cc more opened then ran out quick then kind off jumped a bit.
Plugged it then.
no need to plug it, if it dont drip out add 1/4 liter and look under to see if it drips, if not add more. Once it starts dripping out plug it and shut off engine.

mine takes about 3.5L before it starts drippin. I usually dump 3L in, start engine, dump 1L more in, get it to temp, remove plug, let it flow till it drips and close it up, done.
 
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vacin

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2013
Location
freds
TDI
01 tdi jetta auto, sold lemon 12 jetta tdi 3 pedal
great post
the very first post and first links gives a 404 error.
 

Central IL TDI Driver

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 2, 2013
Location
Decatur, IL
TDI
2002 Tornado Red Jetta TDI
Going through and have seen conflicting things. This is a great thread of info. For starters, I have an 02 MKIV ALH with an 01M Auto Transmission. As for the fluid, I know the fluid (not the differential) is [FONT=&quot]G052-162-A2, but have seen [/FONT][FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]G052-171-A2 as wel[FONT=&quot]l[/FONT][/FONT]. What is the difference? Is one better than the other performance wise (temp, weather, longevity, etc)? What is the OEM Differential Part #? Had it a while but still a bit of a newb, and not really the MOST mechanically inclined (enough to be dangerous lol). Also, I don't believe the fluid has ever been changed and it just is over 151k miles. Some say no at that age, some say yes (seen more of this honestly), and the intervals (60-80k miles). Trying to get everything lined up as I have an oil change coming up in around 1k miles, as well as finally getting the Panzer FMJ kit installed. Just want to do whatever possible to keep everything running as smoothly as possible as long as possible. Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread so far, and thanks to whatever advice is given.[/FONT]
 
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03MKIV

New member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Location
Ontario, Canada
TDI
2003 2.0L
Bringing this one back from the dead rather than starting a new thread


I have had the fluid/filter kit to do this for a while but have been putting it off as I am nervous about the temp requirement (I don't have VAGCOM). I do have an infrared thermometer, but I'm sure the pan temp doesn't increase at the same rate as the fluid itself so I don't really trust that either (ie. by the time pan temp reaches 35C, the trans fluid will surely be quite a bit higher).

Obviously ambient temp would make a difference, but roughly how long does the car have to be running to hit that 35-45C trans temp?
 

flee

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2011
Location
Chatsworth, CA
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS wagon
Unless you let the car cool for several hours there will be warm fluid in it that will heat the fresh stuff in mere minutes or less.
Even if it has cooled completely it will warm to 35C in less than 5 minutes.
The main variable is the ambient temp.
 

03MKIV

New member
Joined
May 15, 2016
Location
Ontario, Canada
TDI
2003 2.0L
Thanks - I see some use a food type thermometer down the fill plug, but that would make adding fluid to check the level more of a pain having to remove that each time.
 

ChuckMason

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2004
Location
L.A. CA
TDI
Jetta wagon, '03, silver, auto
I have no VAG COM to check oil temperature.
I realized my error today when I removed the trans pan drain plug (to check oil level after shifting the gears) and clean oil streamed out. Plugged it after a few seconds.
How long does it take for the trans oil to reach 85ºF while idling (in a 65-degree garage)? I assume one must wait until valves open to allow the oil to disperse throughout the transmission.

2003 Jetta Wagon TDI (ALH) - automatic

Thank you.
 

Zak99b5

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2021
Location
Albany NY
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
You can get by with feeling the tranny oil pan. Warm but not hot is what you’re feeling for.

Learned a tip from CoolAirVW: don’t wait for the fluid to stop dripping out before reinstalling the plug. Seal it up when it goes from a steady stream to glugging.
 

ChuckMason

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2004
Location
L.A. CA
TDI
Jetta wagon, '03, silver, auto
You can get by with feeling the tranny oil pan. Warm but not hot is what you’re feeling for.

Learned a tip from CoolAirVW: don’t wait for the fluid to stop dripping out before reinstalling the plug. Seal it up when it goes from a steady stream to glugging.

OK. How long will it take to reach 'warm' on the oil pan while idling on stands?
 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
OK. How long will it take to reach 'warm' on the oil pan while idling on stands?
Depends how cold it is outside. :)
Doing a car this past fall (15°C ambient temp), probably was 10minutes (?). If you have one of those infrared temperature guns, you can point that at the oil pan. If it's reading 35C, the oil will be somewhere between the spec'd 35C and 45C.
 
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