How to replace the turbo

spleecho · Apr 3, 2007

Hey guys, I gotta 98 AHU engine Jetta, looked all over for some links but I couldnt find any that relate to mine. Does anybody have some step by step procedures and 'dont forget to's' to remove the old turbo and put the new one in? Shop wants 500 bucks but I wanna do it myself
Any help is very very appriciated!
Thanks

paramedick · Apr 3, 2007

Off the top of my head. I did this a few weeks ago on a B4.

1) remove both intercooler pipes including the silver one to the turbo.
2) remove air intake pipe to turbo. Two 10mm bolts that you have to feel, not see.
3) remove intake manifold. 6 bolts
4) remove vacuum lines
5) unbolt downpipe from turbo. 4 nuts.
6) unbolt oil line to turbo. Use two 17mm wrenches to hold union and nut on the line, or you'll destroy the line. You may destroy it anyway, so have a new one on hand. The connection will be VERY tight.
7) unbolt oil return line from block. One large banjo bolt with two copper seals. Your car may have the newer style return line that bolts to a union at the block.
8) remove the three fasteners that secure the turbo to the exhaust manifold and lift it up and out between the exhaust manifold and firewall. There may be a support bracket on the turbo. If so, unbolt it from the block before removing the fasteners to the exhaust manifold.

Put it back together with a new downpipe gasket, new copper seals on the oil return line, and new vacuum lines while you're at the turbo. I recommend new copper nuts on the downpipe connection.

alphaseinor · Apr 3, 2007

Why do you need to replace the turbo? just curious...

spleecho · Apr 21, 2007

paramedick said:
Off the top of my head. I did this a few weeks ago on a B4.

1) remove both intercooler pipes including the silver one to the turbo.
2) remove air intake pipe to turbo. Two 10mm bolts that you have to feel, not see.
3) remove intake manifold. 6 bolts
4) remove vacuum lines
5) unbolt downpipe from turbo. 4 nuts.
6) unbolt oil line to turbo. Use two 17mm wrenches to hold union and nut on the line, or you'll destroy the line. You may destroy it anyway, so have a new one on hand. The connection will be VERY tight.
7) unbolt oil return line from block. One large banjo bolt with two copper seals. Your car may have the newer style return line that bolts to a union at the block.
8) remove the three fasteners that secure the turbo to the exhaust manifold and lift it up and out between the exhaust manifold and firewall. There may be a support bracket on the turbo. If so, unbolt it from the block before removing the fasteners to the exhaust manifold.

Put it back together with a new downpipe gasket, new copper seals on the oil return line, and new vacuum lines while you're at the turbo. I recommend new copper nuts on the downpipe connection.

thanks a lot!

spleecho · Apr 21, 2007

alphaseinor said:
Why do you need to replace the turbo? just curious...

did everything else, its really really dead

snapdragon · Apr 22, 2007

I am about replace mine. Please can you tell me if there is a gasket between the turbo and the exhaust manifold?

Also is there one between the turbo and exhaust downpipe?

Thanks.

paramedick · Apr 22, 2007

Definitely a gasket between the downpipe and turbo.

On 1.9 TDIs, no gasket between exhaust manifold and turbo.

tdidieselbobny · Apr 22, 2007

snapdragon said:
I am about replace mine. Please can you tell me if there is a gasket between the turbo and the exhaust manifold?

Also is there one between the turbo and exhaust downpipe?

Thanks.

Don't forget to pick up some new studs (4) and copper lock nuts (4) for the turbo to downpipe connection

snapdragon · Apr 23, 2007

Thanks, I think I have everything, it just looked as though it could do with one on the big square face, I would have hated to take it apart and find there is an old one there but I have no replacement.

spleecho · Apr 23, 2007

tdidieselbobny said:
Don't forget to pick up some new studs (4) and copper lock nuts (4) for the turbo to downpipe connection

I just went to two different dealers, one didnt have all the gaskets i needed, there are 4 gaskets for the intake manifold but no there isnt one for the connection with the turbo and manifold, i kept thinking there is one but he showed me a picture of it and there really isnt one.
what bolts and nuts exactely are you talking about?

snapdragon · Apr 23, 2007

spleecho said:
what bolts and nuts exactely are you talking about?

All of them I have to remove as they are a bit corroded, oil feed and drain bolts, and seals, AM8 nuts, gaskets, bolts to hold heat shield on etc..

I'm really looking forward to it, it looks a simple job on the AKN V6 TDi, will post some pics.

tdidieselbobny · Apr 25, 2007

I think Impex sells a kit to change out intake manifold-around $20-$25 for the gasket(1 pc) nuts & bolts-I think Paramedick might have the link to it.The nuts & bolts I am talking about go to connection between turbo & downpipe-they are 4 studs(thread on both ends-one end threads into turbo, other end you put locknut on after fitting downpipe)-I think the nut # is N 902 002 01- list is $1.95-they are copper color and look funny(sort of oblong) downpipe gasket # is 1HO 253 115 A -list is $10.43-I lucked out on gasket-last dealer I checked before having to special order it had it in stock.

paramedick · Apr 25, 2007

Turbo install kit

http://www.tdiparts.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=turbo+install&osCsid=b7d2e5a1b1010ef85ed160000810b20a

Sorry, can't find a link to the intake cleaning kit. Worldimpex.com did have one. About $25

spleecho · May 5, 2007

ok the turbo has been replaced, no there was no need to take off the intake manifold, it came out just fine if you can feel around all the bolts, 2 bolts have to be removed from the bottom of the car, everything else i got done from the engine bay
bad news is, the turbo was just fine, i still got low power and i cant figure it out, all the vacuum hoses have been replaced

snapdragon · May 5, 2007

Same happened to me, the turbo actuator was blown, but with the new turbo installed, the car had even less power.
After replacing parts one by one, it was a non-return valve in the vacuum system. I wouldn't have thought this little plastic part could have caused so much trouble! Most of the time, on the road, there simply wasn't enough vacuum going to the VNT/wastegate actuator on the turbo (these failsafe as low boost). Now even at idle the actuator is on full boost pulled up by the vacuum, it is pretty much on full boost by default and just backs off by exhausting vacuum to atmosphere if boost gets too high or you lift off gas. I suspect 3 weeks of sucking in unfiltered air instead of just pulling a vacuum must have filled it with dust.

rdkern · May 7, 2007

The turbo doesn't do much at all in the 1200-2000 rpm range. IIRC, you have no power anywhere. Can you easily pull fuel through the filter. I understand that it has been changed recently, but there are other places fuel could be restricted. It would be nice to know that it was getting to the IP easily.

And, by the way, the AHU use pressure, not vacuum, to activate the wastegate. And the wastegate defauls closed, allowing full boost.

Do you know what the IQ is? Have you found a VagCom in your area?

How to replace the turbo

spleecho

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paramedick

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