hgeittmann
Veteran Member
Ok, so I put a pd130 turbo on my 1Z this week. Yeah, it's not compound turbos or even a vnt20, but hey, the car is running again and I'm happy.
Before the swap I dyno'd 130hp/250tq w/ RC3, PP520s, and one of BleachedBora's gt15/17 turbos...
An AFN manifold and PD130 turbo (gt1749va) will bolt on without the rear motor mount interference that the vb turbo has (which Jeff recently posted a work-around for his vb on an A3 here). I say "bolt on" loosely as there is some fab required to make this work. Down pipe... find the flange from an A4 downpipe and take it to any muffler shop when you're all done.
Oil lines (find a hydraulic hose shop- just google "aeroquip" and find a distributor near you). For the supply line I had my stock line modified at the hose shop:
The return line may look a little scarrier... I modified my stock line, first thinking I could extend the flex section using hosebarbs and some tubing:
which didn't work at all, so I cut the stock lines where circled- there's a hump that makes a nice hose barb- and used about 11" of tube from NAPA. I forget the SAE rating, but it was decent stuff. It's holding up so far, and I have ordered a CNC oil return flange ($15 from some turbo website) with NPT fitting so I can make a nicer one someday. The stock return line is sort of a joke (what I made can't be worse)- big 90 bend that runs nearly horizontal into the block ??? Make the shortest run possible with gentle bends and try to maintain a slope downward into the banjo fitting... at least that's what Corky says.
Also needed is a an adapter for turbo-to-upper IC pipe (made it myself, but probably should've just bought Kerma's widget), adapter for PD130 intake manifold (made it myself, the PD130 IM is optional), and an A4 N75 and electrical connector. Here are my adapters:
There's one silicone 2.25-2" adapter, and one piece of 2" x 8" long to connect upper IC tubes. I don't have the stock tubes anymore, but the long hose would still need be needed for the stock tubes. With all of those pieces, everything fits back together!!!
The red dots show the vacuum line to the N75. Not pictured is an A4 vacuum reservoir.
With the GN ecu, the brake and clutch switches for cruise control need to be rewired to switch to +12vdc instead of ground. I tapped into switched 12v at the headlight switch (pin 4, gray/blue):
and then used butt splices to run the 12v to the brake and clutch connectors
The clutch switch is the black one that is easy to see, the brake switch is the blue connector in the upper right. 12v goes to pin 1 on the cruise connector, and pin 2 on the brake connector. Jeff/RC sent me the details on this, and I'm really grateful for his help.
I decided to buy Aligator's DIY tuning kit. I wanted to be able to tune everything to suit my smoke tolerance, which is low. With just the first map from Aligator I can say the power has increased significantly over the wastegate/GQ, and smoke is non existent. I will return to the dyno December 2nd and post the results.
Another fun thing about this project was collecting parts from tdiclubbers... N75 connector from Amonquag, N75 from tdiparts.com, downpipe flange from KCTDI, oil line (that got modified) from Stig, turbo from vw4motion, intake & exhaust manifolds from Aligator. ECU was converted from GQ to GN by Jeff, A4 injector bodies from NickLockard, IC pipes from tbailey4... thanks!
OK... here's the after dyno:
134hp (+4hp) and 254ftlbs (+4tq). Jeez... I was really hoping for bigger gains, but it is what it is. The new dyno shows that peak torque comes on 100rpm earlier (2237rpm vs 2328rpm) and peak power is 450rpm higher (3813rpm vs 3385rpm) and doesn't fall off at higher rpm like the WG dyno did. So, perhaps a little more area under the power curve. Smoke is gone, so no more being careful with the right foot, which definitely makes it more fun to drive, at least for me.
Before the swap I dyno'd 130hp/250tq w/ RC3, PP520s, and one of BleachedBora's gt15/17 turbos...
An AFN manifold and PD130 turbo (gt1749va) will bolt on without the rear motor mount interference that the vb turbo has (which Jeff recently posted a work-around for his vb on an A3 here). I say "bolt on" loosely as there is some fab required to make this work. Down pipe... find the flange from an A4 downpipe and take it to any muffler shop when you're all done.
Oil lines (find a hydraulic hose shop- just google "aeroquip" and find a distributor near you). For the supply line I had my stock line modified at the hose shop:
The return line may look a little scarrier... I modified my stock line, first thinking I could extend the flex section using hosebarbs and some tubing:
which didn't work at all, so I cut the stock lines where circled- there's a hump that makes a nice hose barb- and used about 11" of tube from NAPA. I forget the SAE rating, but it was decent stuff. It's holding up so far, and I have ordered a CNC oil return flange ($15 from some turbo website) with NPT fitting so I can make a nicer one someday. The stock return line is sort of a joke (what I made can't be worse)- big 90 bend that runs nearly horizontal into the block ??? Make the shortest run possible with gentle bends and try to maintain a slope downward into the banjo fitting... at least that's what Corky says.
Also needed is a an adapter for turbo-to-upper IC pipe (made it myself, but probably should've just bought Kerma's widget), adapter for PD130 intake manifold (made it myself, the PD130 IM is optional), and an A4 N75 and electrical connector. Here are my adapters:
There's one silicone 2.25-2" adapter, and one piece of 2" x 8" long to connect upper IC tubes. I don't have the stock tubes anymore, but the long hose would still need be needed for the stock tubes. With all of those pieces, everything fits back together!!!
The red dots show the vacuum line to the N75. Not pictured is an A4 vacuum reservoir.
With the GN ecu, the brake and clutch switches for cruise control need to be rewired to switch to +12vdc instead of ground. I tapped into switched 12v at the headlight switch (pin 4, gray/blue):
and then used butt splices to run the 12v to the brake and clutch connectors
The clutch switch is the black one that is easy to see, the brake switch is the blue connector in the upper right. 12v goes to pin 1 on the cruise connector, and pin 2 on the brake connector. Jeff/RC sent me the details on this, and I'm really grateful for his help.
I decided to buy Aligator's DIY tuning kit. I wanted to be able to tune everything to suit my smoke tolerance, which is low. With just the first map from Aligator I can say the power has increased significantly over the wastegate/GQ, and smoke is non existent. I will return to the dyno December 2nd and post the results.
Another fun thing about this project was collecting parts from tdiclubbers... N75 connector from Amonquag, N75 from tdiparts.com, downpipe flange from KCTDI, oil line (that got modified) from Stig, turbo from vw4motion, intake & exhaust manifolds from Aligator. ECU was converted from GQ to GN by Jeff, A4 injector bodies from NickLockard, IC pipes from tbailey4... thanks!
OK... here's the after dyno:
134hp (+4hp) and 254ftlbs (+4tq). Jeez... I was really hoping for bigger gains, but it is what it is. The new dyno shows that peak torque comes on 100rpm earlier (2237rpm vs 2328rpm) and peak power is 450rpm higher (3813rpm vs 3385rpm) and doesn't fall off at higher rpm like the WG dyno did. So, perhaps a little more area under the power curve. Smoke is gone, so no more being careful with the right foot, which definitely makes it more fun to drive, at least for me.
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