Easy Lubro Moly Diesel Purge How-To - with pics!!

Good stuff, Impex sells LM diesel purge for $5.88 a can, can't beat that price.

Good stuff, Impex sells LM diesel purge for $5.88 a can, can't beat that price.

http://store.interautopartssd.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=10
If you're anywhere near San Diego, you can also save shipping.

nicklockard said:

I'm not sure if it was noted in this thread (DD may have mentioned it), but several members have done used oil analysis tracking with every oil change and found lots of wear after performing this DP purge. I don't have time to search for the threads with those mentions, but IIRC, SunRG's UOA threads contain some of those posts.

It may be wise to change oil immediately after doing the DP purge, and only do this procedure infrequently. For some reason my car did not respond one iota to the cleaning.

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jollyGreenGiant said:

Also, not too sure what repeated cleanings do to IP seals that may already be on the way out... Something tells me it's probably not the best thing for those seals.

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Could it cause catastrophic damage, or something that appears that way?

2/3 of the way through a second can of DP (driving around, instead of revving in the driveway), my '01 stalled, and I've been so far been unable to restart it or find a cause.
Please have a look at my post here. (I'm getting a bit desperate - about to chain it to my Caprice, tow it up to Herm, and leave it to him.)

I'm sure there are other things that can go from fully working to no-start, with no relation to the DP, but no-one has come up with anything either way. (I did come across somebody having catastrophic cam lobe erosion (non-PD). While that scares me, it doesn't seem like somethign that would fail that suddenly...?)

vld-
sorry- I didn't get out to my car to check the anti-shudder valve position last night. Were you able to eliminate that?

It is highly doubtful that a DP treatment killed your car. The effect of it on the oil would be over a period of significant operating time. You would need to let your oil go for quite awhile before it did enough damage to stop the engine. (assuming you didn't run a case of the stuff thru your system )

The issue with the IP would be causing seals to leak. I think you would need to see puddles of diesel under your car before that would get to a point of preventing the engine from running.

My car is running again, and the diagnosis is: air in the injector lines, presumably from DP sloshing around the bottle as it got a bit low (not so low that it looked like a problem). So, driving around while doing DP is not such a good idea.

I just did this today before my air filter and oil change and thought I would post here to give the thread a bump. I used 90% of one can run straight through the motor and used another can to prime my new fuel filter. After that I took the car out for a "spirited" 15 - 20 minute drive. With 113k on my motor it made a big difference. Condierably quieter and more responsive. I have a quick question though. After returning from my drive I had the hood open and I watched the fuel supply line as I wound it up to redline a couple of times. Each time I could see a fairly large air bubble in that line. Is there still just a bit of air in my filter or are my hoses sucking air from somewhere? Any ideas?

Matt

Quick update from my last message. I took the car for another longer drive and all air bubbles went away. My guess is I didn't get the fuel filter fully primed and I had to work through a small pocket of air.

Matt

I did this procedure today on my 97 Passat TDI using Lubro Molly Diesel Purge. Its a little hard to see how much is left in the can so the next time I will use a see thru container. Once I had the tubes in the can at the bottom I used Tiewraps to secure them on the inside of the engine so that they could not move.

Okay, I tried to do this today on my new wagon ('03) and had problems.

Hooked up the plastic hoses which TDIparts supplied and started the car. It ran for about 3-5 minutes and then it stalled out and the diesel started to reverse flow - overflowing the DP can. big mess.

reconnected the fuel filter, cracked #3, and then she started; but not easily. idled until all normal.

tried again with copper tubing; same deal, ran for about 3-4 mins and then dies from lack of fuel and proceeds to completely backs up overflowing the DP bottle - another big mess.

What the heck am I doing wrong? This is the second time I have done this - not on this car though - and it all went very well with the other car.

debensey said:

another way to use this stuff is to take two lengths of anealed copper tubing,

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DO NOT USE COPPER WITH ETHYLHEXYL NITRATE!
(unless you want horrible copper compounds deposited in your fuel system)
Also, I would be very worried about running unfiltered fuel from an open container, any dust that falls in could wreak havoc.
You have to be surgically clean when the fuel system is open, and this breaks all the rules.

MikeS_18 said:

Okay, I tried to do this today on my new wagon ('03) and had problems.It ran for about 3-5 minutes and then it stalled out and the diesel started to reverse flow - overflowing the DP can. big mess. What the heck am I doing wrong?

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Well, I was letting air into the system. I put better clamps on the tubes and it worked fine. HOWEVER, the plastic tube did melt some inside the fuel return tube and it was a ****** to get out. I won't use plastic again - and if I can't use copper what should I do? cast iron???

Wow, this was super easy. Bump for a great howto.

Very easy to do and GREAT write-up, thanks. It took something like under a minute to go through the can of DP and it was virtually clear when it came out...so I ran it through again, same result, went through the engine in under a minute and was very clear (light yellow) when it came out. It's hard to imagine it did anything. Any thoughts?

The idea is to dump the return back into the can and run it until it's all used up (maybe ~30 minutes). The return flow is just the excess from the fuel pump. You might get some cleaning there, but what you're really trying to clean are the injectors. The DP that breaks up deposits on the injectors is obviously burned up by the combustion, so you won't get a color change on the return line to be able to tell how bad they were.

DOH!! I scewed up the process. Can't imgine my injectors are overly dirty as they are about a week old, but the combustion chambers are another thing. I'll do it again tomorrow. I thought it was happing too fast.

Diesel Purge procedure, minimal setup, included actual driving

I ran my Diesel Purge recently, having done it once before but this time I did it right. I used pretty much a similar method to McBrew's procedure that was posted above on 14-Oct-2004.
The procedural differences -- I had some viton tubing handy, that I'd recently purchased from McMaster-Carr through their online store ... part numbers were based on the following TDIClub post: Info posted by paramedick, thank you Bruce B.! I cut a couple of short pieces of that tubing. The Outer Diameter of it is .25 inches, so I was able to twist them into the two disconnected fuel lines, shown in McBrew's photo (14-Oct-2004). I fed the other ends of those two lines down into the opened Diesel Purge can (down to its bottom).

And (2nd difference), in order to try and clean the injectors a bit more thoroughly, and maybe get it done quicker, I stowed the Diesel Purge can (with hoses as inserted) down near the washer fluid bottle somewhere, wherever I found space, using a towel to keep it snug ... closed the hood (not all the way; just until the first click of the latch). I drove around the neighborhood, trying to rev up above 4000 rpm, and cycle through the gears. I did this for a few minutes at a time, always finishing back at home, and visually looked into the Diesel Purge can. After about 3 trips, the can looked to be just about empty, and I was seeing a lot of air bubbles in my see-through fuel intake line (the one that feeds the Bosch VE Injection Pump).

The critical point was that I didn't want to let the fuel intake run dry enough for the pump to lose its prime ... many of us know how un-fun that is. And, to get stuck somewhere away from home ... luckily, I didn't have those troubles.

Hooked everything back up as normal, poured the remaining spoonfuls of Diesel Purge into the fuel tank (using a black plastic pipe), and was done. Hoping this helps someone; Larry.

Disel Purge in gas tank

Can one run the fuel tank almost dry and then add two cans of diesel purge into te gas tank? Will that work?

ekkoh99 said:

Can one run the fuel tank almost dry and then add two cans of diesel purge into te gas tank? Will that work?

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This should work, if it is empty enough, and you then run it almost empty again so that you give the DP a chance to work on the injectors long enough.

It's been mentioned before in this thread but it's worth mentioning again:
You really should change the oil shortly after using DP. I would say within a week.

Can someone please post a link to the PD version of this?

I didnt realise it was different and followed the guide on page 1. Immediately I found that a stream of diesel came out of the filter. I had to feed this into a jerry can at 5 litre intervals and keep dumping it back into the tank!

All the diesel purge eventually got use up. Have I wasted a can of purge and will have to do it again with a different method or have I gone the right way about it? Its not solved my vibration problem but the car felt a bit livelier!

Well, after my issues of getting the car re-started after doing the diesel purge I actually find my car louder than before? Odd, I know.

Now my vw mechanic advised me to put a tablespoon of tranny fluid into the diesel purge to provide some lubricity for the injector pump, other than that I did everything as per the guide here and I just did an oil change less than 5,000kms (Elf synthetic) ago so I did not complete an oil change at this time.

Hopefully I did not actually "damage" something

*Update* had a serious air lock in injector one which I now have had bled out and everything is back to normal*

I think a drink beer step should be added after step 1 and step 11.

if you have a bunch of friends...

http://www.procycle.us/main/fuel_hose.htm (see the Mann pre-filter thread in Fuels & Lube) and get the polyurethane hose. A single person does not need 25 ft of hose, but you can split it with a few people. The hose is more expensive however if you need to do multiple cans of DP in a sitting--- no worries about hose deterioration.


....http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=125520

I did the deisel purge a little differently.

1-bought fuel filter, and 1 can of Lubro Purge

2-removed old fuel filter

3-poured entire can of purge into new filter (it all goes in)

4-install new filter

5-fire up engine

6-drive 11hrs to Maryland for the H20 International show

Engine runs quieter, better mileage, and less smoke.

pete- you can't really have done much with that method. Certainly didn't get anywhere near the max effect of DP. The reason is because as soon as the filter contents ran thru the DP, a great majority of the contents returned to the tank to be mixed with straight fuel. This quickly dilutes the DP and reduces its effectiveness. Didn't hurt anything, tho.

i just did a diesel purge 10 min ago, no difference compared to before, the run exactly the same.

The reason for that i think is that i have been running B40 for over 6 month now, and BIOdiesel do pretty much the same as Disel purge but continually

anyone to back me up ?

works great!

Just finnished thought I would do this before winter sine I have 200,000km on her. I used the copper tubing (3/8" O.D.) fits snug no worries about heat, no leaks...

I use stanadyne at every fillup and I noticed the color in the can never changed never got dirty or anything, we will see on the cold mornings coming up in northern alberta if the starts are any better...stay tuned.

blued said:

Can someone please post a link to the PD version of this?

I didnt realise it was different and followed the guide on page 1. Immediately I found that a stream of diesel came out of the filter. I had to feed this into a jerry can at 5 litre intervals and keep dumping it back into the tank!

All the diesel purge eventually got use up. Have I wasted a can of purge and will have to do it again with a different method or have I gone the right way about it? Its not solved my vibration problem but the car felt a bit livelier!

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I have a PD and I just did this procedure at 74k miles.

I also have a Stanadyne Fuel filter set-up similar to:



I ended up just taking my incoming fuel supply line (from tank) and un-hooked it from my Stanadyne filter. I hooked it up to the fuel return line (to the tank). So it basically just ran circles. I then hooked up an extra piece of fuel line from the return line on the block... it's the one you can see just past the timing belt cover... there are two there and it is the one closest to the bottom of the pic. I put the extra piece of hose into my Diesel Purge can. I then uses the supplied plastic hose and stuck it inside my fuel line that was coming from the tank supply line. It was already unhooked from before. I placed a clamp on the the hose to make sure I didn't get a leak where they met. I shoved the supplied plastic hose into the Diesel Purge can. I liked this set-up because everything went through the filter.

BTW...
With the PD my hoses and Diesel Purge can got EXTREMELY hot. Like it would burn you hot. I would not do two cans at the same time. I was a little nervous because the plastic hose did get really soft, but I was alright since everything was going through my fuel filter first. I didn't think about it, but you might stick the diesel purge can in a cooler filled with ice and water. It got seriously hot. I ran my heater the entire time to help move some coolant through the line, which runs with the fuel lines on the motor.

Easy Lubro Moly Deisel Purge How-To - with pics!!

Wow! - What a difference this has made in the steadiness after first starting and the new car zip is back on my '97 Passat... only 127K on the clock, but there was a ground strap that rendered the spedo useless for a few years, so maybe 190K? -

Thanks for the start on this, ARBY

Seen this asked a few times, but no replies yet...

Is this necessary for us folks that occasionally run bio-diesel?

My car drives and sounds exactly as it did since new, with 90K miles on the clock now. (Actually it's got a bit more pep since new because it's broken in now)

Is there any point in performing a DP or does the regimen of B100 from time to time keep things cleaned out?