Refrigerant control valve replacement - replace drier too?

My 2012 JSW has all the symptoms of a bad RCV. I'm about to order the valve, but I'm wondering if the drier cartridge should be replaced. I've been told that anytime an AC system loses vacuum, it should be replaced, but it's a lot more work to add on.

Thanks

In for replies.


I'm at this stage also.

I'm just replacing my RCV. I should have it in the mail tomorrow

Standard practice is to change it every time the system is open. I have successfully skipped changing it before on other vehicles when I only needed to change a metering orifice or expansion valve, and the system was only open for a short time.

I am about to do the RCV on mine. From all I have read, if you can pull a good vacuum and hold it for a few hours, no need to change the dryer. The faster you can change the part the better, low humidity day is better.

Kobayashimaru said:

My 2012 JSW has all the symptoms of a bad RCV. I'm about to order the valve, but I'm wondering if the drier cartridge should be replaced. I've been told that anytime an AC system loses vacuum, it should be replaced, but it's a lot more work to add on.
Thanks

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Was the system empty or low before? Not holding a vacuum ? Or just not reading the right pressure? The RCV controls the system pressure. It can look like an old school system that lost a charge.

The 1st dealership I went to thru a recharge only on my bad RCV issue, they said it was only a low system. It did not fix the a/c of course. The second dealer did the RCV (no leaak in system). ICE cold now. Was it acually low the 1st time? Maybe, maybe not. Ive seen cars lose a partial charge when sitting. Mine sat a year thru the dieselgate fix.

My point is there is no moisture introduced into your system if it hasnt been open. If so why spend time effort and $ on something thats not effected? Many times not needed work can increase the chance for more leaks ect.

Mine's been open (I'm pretty sure) after body shop repair from hitting two deer. I'll probably need to do it when I do the RCV. Anyone have the drier PN handy?

I was reading these posts. What are the symptoms of of a bad RCV or drier? I’ve had problems with my air-conditioning. Sometimes I have to drive for 10 minutes or more before the air conditioning starts to work. But even at that it’s not as cold as it used to be.

You will not need to replace the drier. The drier is in the end of the condenser, and can be nearly impossible to separate from the condenser anyway.

Symptoms of a failing RCV is slow to cool, or delayed and erratic inconsistent cooling.

Thanks. Are there any videos showing how to replace this RCV? Is it inside the compressor or somewhere else. I have a 2013 JSW.

Evacuate the system, make sure it is empty, but do NOT pull a vacuum on it.

Lift the car up, remove the lower shield.

Remove the two lower roll mount attachment bolts that screw to the transmission (right out in the open).

Roll the engine/trans assembly UP in the rear, so it comes DOWN in the front, you'll get about an inch or two. This helps with clearance.

Unplug the RCV on the bottom/rear part of the compressor.

Remove the snap ring.

Put a rag or something down, and some eye protection.

Pull the RCV out... it may take some twisting and prying... in extreme cases I have had to punch a hole in the little nubbin on the end to use as a pry point. This is why you do not put the system on a vacuum, as it makes it even harder to get out.

Once it comes out, lightly lube the o-rings on the new RCV with refrigerant oil, slide it in until it "pops" and bottoms into place, then put the snap ring back in. If the snap ring groove is not exposed, the RCV is not in far enough.

Put it all back together, pull a vacuum on it (longer is better, but normally ~15 min is plenty, the system should have only been "open" for a few seconds). Recharge with the proper amount (525 grams on most models).

I don’t have access to a lift. I would have to either do this on jack stands or from above.

Can this be done on 6 ton jack stands?

You need to get under the car and yes 6 ton jack stands will work.

oilhammer said:

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Put it all back together, pull a vacuum on it (longer is better, but normally ~15 min is plenty, the system should have only been "open" for a few seconds). Recharge with the proper amount (525 grams on most models).

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Thanks a million, OH. I really appreciate that you take the time to help people out with solid advice on how to DIY so many typical issues.


You win the Internet today.

Would someone please post a part number for a RCV for a 2013 Sportwagen? Photos might help. I want to try to tackle this project. I want to make sure I get the right part.


Thanks much!

hangman said:

Would someone please post a part number for a RCV for a 2013 Sportwagen? Photos might help. I want to try to tackle this project. I want to make sure I get the right part.


Thanks much!

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This thread should have come up in a search, but just in case it didn't... read post #8 then call a dealership with your VIN.



https://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=506438

If I remember correctly there are 2 that the factory used on the MKVI's. You have to look at your valve to make sure to order the right one. They are pictured on the following link.


Edit: (Again if I remember) You can see which one is on your car without removing it. Good luck!

http://www.rcvvalves.com/

I’m trying to find a place in Albuquerque, NM that will just replace the RCV, but having no luck! Anyone out there know a place in Albuquerque that can do this? I’m guessing the VW dealership won’t. My AC cools after a while, but it takes a while & then it works great. New RCV yes?

There is literally a TSB about this, there is no reason any shop wouldn't do it, ESPECIALLY the dealer.

oilhammer said:

There is literally a TSB about this, there is no reason any shop wouldn't do it, ESPECIALLY the dealer.

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Thank you. What is a TSB?

Technical Service Bulletin

Here ya go:

Thank you!

oilhammer said:

There is literally a TSB about this, there is no reason any shop wouldn't do it, ESPECIALLY the dealer.

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my RCV is bad. one euro shop prefers to replace AC Compressor instead of RCV, we argued.

any advice? shove this TSB to their faces?

Can't fix stupid.

Another 2 cents on the RCV and finding one, look up your ac compressor part number and you should be able to find it through that or the brand it is if the number doesn't match 100%

oilhammer said:

Can't fix stupid.

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LMAO!

this is the shop, https://lakecountyeuros.com/

reviewing the customers comments truly surprises me. they actually made a grave mistake on my new B5 passat aluminum control arms, tightening it up fixed the sloppy steering that I posted a while back,