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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old October 11th, 2018, 07:35   #1
Chris_TDI_98
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Question Help what’s gonna by on in this pic. And why.

Anyone ever see something like this before.
How did you fix it.
Also, apparently the coolant temp sensor is dead or disconnected/broken wire because the glow plugs run full cycle (10 sec) above 45 degrees F when they should run and immediately shut off after 2 sec.

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Old October 11th, 2018, 13:58   #2
Abacus
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Housing is cracked.
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Old October 11th, 2018, 14:13   #3
burn_your_money
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What does your coolant look like? That looks rusty.
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Old October 11th, 2018, 15:00   #4
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I’d spend money on routine maintenance, rather than leds and other wants. Rather than the car getting stolen, you’re slowing killing it.

-Todd
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Old October 11th, 2018, 15:49   #5
My_name_is_Rob
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I hate to be a stickler, but you should give that thing a wash. It looks filthy.
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Old October 11th, 2018, 16:05   #6
Chris_TDI_98
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Originally Posted by Abacus View Post
Housing is cracked.
Which housing? Sorry. You mean that contraption where the coolant sensor mounts?
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Old October 11th, 2018, 16:07   #7
Chris_TDI_98
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Originally Posted by burn_your_money View Post
What does your coolant look like? That looks rusty.
Rusty or I was dumb and mixed two conflicting types of coolants I saw somewhere that can cause that red rusty look too...
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Old October 11th, 2018, 16:09   #8
Chris_TDI_98
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I’d spend money on routine maintenance, rather than leds and other wants. Rather than the car getting stolen, you’re slowing killing it.
For real. I’ll do coolant flush and refill next.
What’s the best spot along the coolant pathway to unhook a hose and put a garden hose in and blast it with water til it’s clear and clean??
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Old October 11th, 2018, 16:10   #9
Chris_TDI_98
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I hate to be a stickler, but you should give that thing a wash. It looks filthy.
Any tip on which spray it with so it gets off the gunk and not hurt the wires hoses and sensors ??
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Old October 11th, 2018, 18:02   #10
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I’d spend money on routine maintenance, rather than leds and other wants. Rather than the car getting stolen, you’re slowing killing it.

-Todd
Could not agree more with this ^^^^. But hey, these kids today are only thinking about one thing.
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Old October 11th, 2018, 19:50   #11
My_name_is_Rob
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Any tip on which spray it with so it gets off the gunk and not hurt the wires hoses and sensors ??
I sometimes use an engine degreaser on mine, but it should be a cold engine, and it should be rinsed off with water before running the engine. Most wand car washes have an engine and tire degreaser as well, and a good soak does wonders.
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Old October 11th, 2018, 21:12   #12
ketchupshirt88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_TDI_98 View Post
For real. I’ll do coolant flush and refill next.
What’s the best spot along the coolant pathway to unhook a hose and put a garden hose in and blast it with water til it’s clear and clean??
All of them... seriously, it’s the only way to even get a majority of the old stuff out. You want to flush the heater core, radiator, head, block, everything. You also may find that the “quick connections” with the clips and orings at the lower radiator and thermostat don’t want to seal anymore once opened. I used “right stuff” to remedy that and just open it at the hose clamp instead of the clip thing.

Some consider it bad to use green coolant in a VW... but it’s a 20 year old car in rough shape anyway, as long as you don’t mix coolant types it doesn’t really matter.

That housing is a pretty common issue with cracks, but at least it’s easy to get to and fairly cheap to replace.
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Old October 11th, 2018, 21:36   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_TDI_98 View Post
What’s the best spot along the coolant pathway to unhook a hose and put a garden hose in and blast it with water til it’s clear and clean??
There isn't, because there are multiple paths, some of which are only open when the engine warms up. You also don't want to blast a system built for 15 psi with a 40 psi garden hose... or your next post will be about replacing a heater core.

You'll need to drain it as best you can, fill it with water, run it up to temperature, let it cool, drain it, re-fill with water... etc etc etc... until what you drain is clear. 2-3 times generally does it.

Some people pull the t-stat so that they don't have to run the engine all the way up to temperature.

All of this is in the service manual, BTW, which would probably be a great investment, given how much work you have ahead of you with this car, per all the threads... and you'll probably discover more stuff as you dig in that you'll want to research.
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Old October 11th, 2018, 23:24   #14
turbodieseldyke
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You also don't want to blast a system built for 15 psi with a 40 psi garden hose... or your next post will be about replacing a heater core.
Assuming the lower hose (or something) will be disconnected, the system will never even reach 4psi.

To answer Chris: when I flushed mine, my nozzle fit perfectly into the reservoir cap hole, so that's where I stuck the hose. YNMV (Your Nozzle May Vary)
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Old October 12th, 2018, 09:20   #15
Vince Waldon
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Assuming the lower hose (or something) will be disconnected, the system will never even reach 4psi.
If there's any restriction, at all, which there could well be if different coolants have been mixed or the system has gunk in it... the system pressure can reach garden hose pressure... and it can be the last straw for an aging heater core.

Been there, seen it with my own eyes (luckily not my car... I was running towards my friend's car screaming "STOPPPPPP!!!!" at the time.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbodieseldyke View Post
To answer Chris: when I flushed mine, my nozzle fit perfectly into the reservoir cap hole, so that's where I stuck the hose. YNMV (Your Nozzle May Vary)
With the t-stat closed a large segment of the cooling system circuit will not be flushed simply forcing water down the reservoir... 'cause the t-stat's exact job is to isolate that segment from normal flow.
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