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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old August 1st, 2006, 14:12   #31
moblemaster
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Default Fuel Injection pump help MGM/BHM/ATL

CORRECTION
I am in Montgomery,AL and need the pump rebuilt. leaking at the rotor head where the 4 flanged fuel lines come in at.
Anyone or anyplace that can do this in the Montgomery, Birmingham, Atlanta area???

Last edited by moblemaster; August 1st, 2006 at 16:05.
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Old August 18th, 2006, 16:36   #32
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David Brubaker ("Davidbru" I believe) in Atlanta may be able to do the seal change but not a rebuild. I just added a Viton pump head seal to my site. That's the one leaking on your pump.
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Old September 5th, 2006, 17:21   #33
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I put together a numbered step by step list for swapping the top and middle/lower seals based on when ninedee_golf_tdi walked me through the process.

VE/Rotary Injection Pump Replacing Top & Middle/Lower Seals

Any suggestions for improvements/corrections are appreciated. Once it is finalized, I'll try to upload it to TDIClub so the images show up (unless kneebull and McBrew want to give me permission to download copies of their images to my website).
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Old September 7th, 2006, 05:51   #34
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Nice Job! I didn't see anything incorrect but I did have a couple comments...

I would recommend that when collecting the IQ baseline and then when setting the IQ after seal replacement that the vehicle have all it's major electrical consumers turned off as well as the AC system, these impact the IQ to a significant degree and might cause some frustrations.

If you weren't happy with drivability before the seal change, now is your chance to play with the IQ till it does feel right.

Oh, and perhaps a tools and parts list up top kind of recipe like...
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Old September 7th, 2006, 09:46   #35
Chris Bell
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Since the "middle cover" is actually the Quantity Adjuster housing or block and not a cover, I would refer to it as that.

Since early ECMs/pumps had a very narrow range of electronic IQ adjustment (via VAG-COM adaption) compared to the later ones, I would set IQ adaption at its "richest" ("32784" on the early cars) before adjusting IQ mechanically. That way, you'll have a bit of extra "leaning" adaption leeway to solve a shuddering problem or reduce smoke after chip/nozzle upgrades without having to make another mechanically adjustment. There's not a lot to be gained, but you'll never have need to "richen" IQ, so you might as well get as much easy "lean" adjustable range as you can.

And I would include a warning to check for softening of the cooling hoses below the pump due to fuel exposure if the pump has been leaking for a while. Those hoses have been know to fail as a result of a significant pump leak.
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Old September 9th, 2006, 11:07   #36
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Thanks for the suggestions!

Quote:
Oh, and perhaps a tools and parts list up top kind of recipe like...
This is on my list of things to add.

Quote:
Since the "middle cover" is actually the Quantity Adjuster housing or block and not a cover, I would refer to it as that.
I was quite confident there was a better name for it. Thanks.

I was reluctant to get into too much detail about setting the IQ because I'm not really familiar with all the details of doing it right. Also, I assumed someone somewhere has probably done a fairly comprehensive write-up already. Maybe a link would be appropriate to full details on the hammer mod / adjusting IQ? Any suggestions?
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Old September 9th, 2006, 13:53   #37
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FYI....
As of today when I picked my Kit up John said he got 50........
Sku# is 552404 kit is 15.55


Quote:
Originally Posted by ninedee_golf_tdi
Impex has the top gasket for $2.62, but do not have the kit nor bottom gasket. John did say he would try to get some kits in stock.
DG has both top and bottom gasket for $9.00 a piece.
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Old September 9th, 2006, 16:11   #38
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Default Fuel injection pump rebuild

I have a B4 that was leaking fuel at the pump... 263K miles.
I WILL SEND IT TO DIESEL SERVICE IN Portland, Oregon ALWAYS!
Talk to Kyle and give him an arrival date; from the lesson I learned...
they ARE THE ONLY ONES HERE IN THE US. that have the electronic timing adjusting tool to get the pump 100% where it needs to be.

Please do yourself a favor and get the pump rebuild THERE!

Even though my pump got the correct BOSCH seals, etc... the timing and what else was not correct and time spent on the ? of the start procedure was days ! not minutes because of an error at the rebuild shop(not Diesel Service, someone else). They could NOT time the pump but said that they did

John
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Old September 9th, 2006, 16:16   #39
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Default B4 pump rebuild...

I have more to say...
After three weeks, we got the pump back after the second try..., and got the Variant running BUT it is STILL NOT in time.
Seems that I am having to go to Portland to get the pump timed, good thing that I have some time and heck of a lot of patience, no?

Diesel Service in Portland--Kyle
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Old September 20th, 2006, 14:06   #40
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http://www.dieselgeek.com/VE_Injecti...eplacement.htm

This is my rendition of a pump head seal change how-to.
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Old September 20th, 2006, 18:11   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corrado tdi
http://www.dieselgeek.com/VE_Injecti...eplacement.htm

This is my rendition of a pump head seal change how-to.

Oh if only this were posted a week sooner....

I removed my head, and the parts came tumbling out, I was able to put the bearings back together with a little bearing grease to hold them, put the cam back in (can only go in one of two ways) put the distributer head in, thought it lined up with the pin on the cam.

Wouldn't fire after several attempts. Pulled the head off and found that I busted the end of the drive in several pieces.

Chulk up one dead pump!

Hopefully I can source the parts I need to rebuild it.

Thought I'd share in my misfortunes to help others avoid thiers.
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Old September 21st, 2006, 16:03   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corrado tdi
http://www.dieselgeek.com/VE_Injecti...eplacement.htm

This is my rendition of a pump head seal change how-to.
Rock on, jim. Thanks for taking the time to put this up. Do you mind, I've linked to your write-up from the how-to I put together about replacing the top and middle seals?

Also, I have a spot set aside in the "references and links" section for a how-to on doing the hammer mod. Does anyone know of a good in-depth link for that procedure?
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Last edited by Beowulf; September 21st, 2006 at 16:07.
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Old September 22nd, 2006, 16:10   #43
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Beowulf,

I am cool with linking to your how-to.
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Old September 24th, 2006, 09:48   #44
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Default How to purge the air?

I replaced only the top cover seal and I cannot get the engine started. It has been sitting in my drive way on a incline for 3 weeks.
I hves used a mity vac pump on all the lines I just cant seem to get the air out and pump primed. Is there a trick to this? I don't want to burn up my starter.
It was running fine when I shut it down just leaking fuel badly from the upper seal?
Ken

Last edited by Bugger; September 24th, 2006 at 09:50.
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Old September 24th, 2006, 12:16   #45
OilBurnerDE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugger
I replaced only the top cover seal and I cannot get the engine started. It has been sitting in my drive way on a incline for 3 weeks.
I hves used a mity vac pump on all the lines I just cant seem to get the air out and pump primed. Is there a trick to this? I don't want to burn up my starter.
It was running fine when I shut it down just leaking fuel badly from the upper seal?
Ken
I am not familiar with the mighty vac, I used a hand pump brake bleeder on mine.

Are you getting fuel out of the lines when you use the MV?

On mine, I disconnected the return line at the fuel filter and hooked up the pump there. At first I was getting a vacuum but I could not see any fuel being sucked through the clear fuel line going to the pump from the filter. Then I simply put my finger over the open connection on the fuel filter where I removed the return line from. After that fuel was pulled all the way through the pump rather quickly with the hand pump.

The car started within a few tries after that, this was starting with a bone dry used pump that I had to buy.

Good luck!
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