Upgrade to 5.5 litre washer fluid tank ? - Page 7

KOMET155 · September 29th, 2003, 08:37

I installed the audi S3 5,3l tank in my GTi. its a little slimmer on the front facing (i guess that's where the .2 luter difference comes in), which allows for more space if/when you ever need to get your hand in that area behind the headlight. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

John B. · September 29th, 2003, 13:18

Umm, bumper and headlight come off in 10 minutes. Only tools needed are a Torx 20 and 30 bit. No jack stands. Remove 15 bolts and lift off. It weighs no more than 5 lbs. Other than that you'll need:

- A 10mm wrench or socket for the tank hold down bolts.
- Pliers for the intercooler hose clamps.
- Flat screwdriver to release the hood release and to get the grill released.

Really, 1 hour easy start to finish by yourself. I timed it.

oldpoopie · September 30th, 2003, 05:30

[ QUOTE ]
KOMET155
Veteran Member
Member # 6839

Reg'd: Oct 18 2001

Loc: Your connection for hard-to-find euro-parts >> paternos@att.net <<
Re: Upgrade to 5.5 litre washer fluid tank ? [Re: tongsli]
#581108 - Mon Sep 29 2003 11:37 AM Edit Reply Quote

I installed the audi S3 5,3l tank in my GTi. its a little slimmer on the front facing (i guess that's where the .2 luter difference comes in), which allows for more space if/when you ever need to get your hand in that area behind the headlight.

[/ QUOTE ]

Do you have the part # for that?

fitzski · January 31st, 2005, 06:57

Since it wasn't specifically mentioned elsewhere (at least that I could find), I wanted to comment that I've just done this mod on a 2004 Jetta PD - no problems.
Holding the new tank and looking at the space it has to get into, I was a bit nervous that it wouldn't fit, that maybe something was different on the PD's, but it actually went off without any difficulty. The only casualty is an oddly shaped plastic wiring harness clip that must be trimmed to reside under the 5.5L tank (with the 3L tank, it comes up the right side).
Plan on ~3 hours to be safe; that's probably about what it took me (I did the coolant heater at the same time, so not exactly sure), and this was the first time I'd worked on the Jetta. If you already know how to get the bumper and such all off, you'll be faster. Especially if you're not working in below freezing weather...

I could probably do it again in half that.
My instruction notes:

Drain your 3L tank! Turkey baster works great!
Remove engine cover (pull straight up at the front left and then front right corners, then work it over the donut at the rear centre)
.................................................. .......
[Edit: People have reported that it is not necessary to remove the bumper in order to do this install, at least on the Jetta (post 1, post2). Probably makes things easier to remove it, but adds considerable time to the project.]
Remove grill (just clips on, a bit tricky to remove the hood release latch - flip up the metal clip and pry open, over the pins)
Remove left and right lower grills
Remove bumper clip (4 screws in each wheel well, ~8 screws across bottom, 2 bolts behind left and right lower grills, and the bolts that were behind the grill - 3 or 5, I can't remember)
Pull bumper gently forward enough to rest on the ground so that you can unplug the turn signal connectors - they just pull straight out.
Disconnect headlamp (a real PITA - pry it off with a screw driver from the top, it really is the only way).
Remove headlamp (2 screws on top, 2 on bottom)
.................................................. .......
Disconnect fuel filter (2 bolts through the sheetmetal, then lever forward to clear the sheetmetal and pull straight up - this just gives you some room to work)
Remove 3L washer tank nuts - one beside fuel filter, one beside intercooler (you'll need a long extension with a 10mm socket)
Unplug heater plug from 3L tank (just pull off).
Disconnect fluid pump - pry out (away from tank), then pull up - it's just a 1" nozzle that pokes through a rubber grommet.
Remove 3L tank (work the tank off the top mounting bolt, then the bottom - you may need to gently pry the nearby hose to get it off)
Remove air conduit (pull the top and side hoses from their moulded guides, and the wiring harness that runs just inside it; remove the "C" clip at top (MAF) and bottom (intercooler) - the hose pulls straight out of it's mate; you should be able to remove it completely with a bit of twisting and turning - just be mindful of nearby harness and connectors. Check out how much nasty oil is in that thing!
Transfer all grommets and plugs to the new 5.5L tank (don't forget the donut for the bottom!); for the heater plug (if so equipped...), pry the *plastic* part up with a screwdriver and it will pop out - be careful not to damage the grommet.
Remove the wiring harness clipped more or less below where the tank sits (pull straight up) - there is a vertical moulded piece of plastic that must be cut off. Remove the electrical tape and make it such that the harness will lie flat; make sure there are no sharp edges. Reinstall.
Take a moment to reassure yourself, while holding the new tank and looking at the small hole it needs to get into, that IT WILL FIT!
Disconnect the small connector beside the radiator and remove it from it's holder - this will completely free the harness, and give some wiggle room.
Angle the tank in, aiming for the fender. Before getting too far, install the fluid pump which is now on the back side (you may want to slightly reroute the outlet line - it just pulls off) - angle the nozzle into the grommet and insert all the way down, then push the pump towards the tank until it snaps in.
At this point, just work away at the tank until it is installed. Pay attention to the wiring harness, making sure it's not twisted or caught up. It's really not too bad getting the tank in.
That's about it - install the tank bolts, connect the heater plug, install the fuel filter bolts, install the intercooler bolts, install the air box conduit and reseat the hoses and harnesses in it, reconnect the other harness plugs, install and connect the headlight, install the bumper and grill (don't forget the indicator connections). Move the tank cap from the old tank to the new (pry it off, and note that it is "keyed" to the new tank with a slot). Install some washer fluid (don't fill it just yet, in case there happens to be a leak), and test it all out.

A worthwhile upgrade, IMO, especially if you routinely drive in salty slushy roadspray mecca's like Ottawa. Tedious, but not overly difficult. Just make sure you have a long (12") socket extension for some of the hard-to-reach bolts.
Cheers,
fitzski

pepper10 · February 2nd, 2005, 07:42

I just ordered the tank from Impex. Sells for $38. Can't wait to put it in.... I'll probably add the headlamp washers later.....

Slave2school · April 13th, 2005, 17:25

Anyone simply tried to find a cheap, tasteull external resevoir and drill a hoel in it and the current washer tank so you have a reserve? I know, not stock at all, but I am cheap and like the idea of a larger capacity wahser system

fitzski · April 14th, 2005, 06:10

Rig up some kind of chassis that you could just drop a 4L jug into... like one of the big (5 gallon?) water coolers.

Really, space is the issue. You'd need to gravity feed from your external reservoir to the OE tank, which obviously limits where things can go, unless you want to get into additional pumps and wiring.

Not sure if places like Impex have the tank, but even from the dealer, it was a worthwhile expense, IMO.

mtltdi · April 14th, 2005, 19:45

You buggers are making me order more stuff for my car.

fitzski · April 15th, 2005, 11:09

He who has the longest list wins?

Slave2school · April 15th, 2005, 12:06

You don't need to gravity feed, just have the bottle at the same height with the hose that connects the two at the lowest point possible on the oem and your "new" resevoir. (with the oem hose being slightly lower than the new res you wouldn't have flow going back to the bottle or whatever you are using for extra space.

Fait_pour_TDI · April 18th, 2005, 18:49

Its a great investment with our winter conditions here.I put one in my wife's Golf also.Wait for low level to light up and then pour in all 4 liters !
The 2 tanks I got from dealer had no hole for the level sensor,not a big deal,I had to drill a 25 mm hole to install sensor.Use silicone sealant to assure it will not leak from there.

pepper10 · April 19th, 2005, 06:35

The way I see it, the $40 it costs saves you time and aggravation plus it is OEM. Well worth it IMHO. You will be spending at least $20 in other hardware to mount your own spare reservoir. Besides, Where would you mount it? There's no room!

fitzski · November 17th, 2005, 09:02

bump for uisge, and others ('tis the season for this worthwhile upgrade)

Uisge · November 17th, 2005, 21:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by fitzski

bump for uisge, and others ('tis the season for this worthwhile upgrade)

Thanks for the bump fitzski. I'll check your installation tomorrow.

It always annoyed me

when I tried to refill a w/w reservoir in any car, just to find that I can't get that last 1/2 litre in. Given our salt-spray winters I should do this mod right after the TDIHeater I'll be installing on the weekend (in the snow, if things continue as they have today

.)

david_594 · April 15th, 2006, 14:46

...bump....

We did 2 of these at the house of 5 garages a few weeks back. You really dont have to remove the bumper cover. The only reason to do it is if you need to remove the headlight to take the upper IC pipe off.

No one seems to have mentioned it but the job is much much easier if you take the bolt out that holds the power steering resevoir in place. You remove that bolt and it allows movement in the power steering lines and those are what really get in the way.

Someone is working on making a PDF of the job with pictures for future reference.