jddaigle
Veteran Member
edit: A PDF Version of this post is also available (3.8 megabyte download).
The VAG 1.9l TDI engine is one of the finest passenger car Diesel engines currently in use. However, while its EGR and CCV systems are extremely effective in keeping emissions in check, the soot from the EGR system combined with oil vapors from the CCV system can lead to deposits building up in the intake manifold. In order to prevent their engine’s intake manifold from becoming clogged with this buildup, many owners of TDIs have been looking for a high-quality filter to prevent the introduction of oil vapors from the crank case into the intake tract. Mann+Hummel makes a CCV filter for light-duty diesel engines, the ProVent 200. Though rather expensive (US$150), it is a high quality part with a long filter life (estimated at between 50,000 and 100,000mi when used in the VAG 1.9l TDI). I purchased mine from Reliable Industries Reliable Industriesin Louisiana, USA. It can be purchased in Canada from R.E. Morrison Equipment Inc. in Ontario. Detailed technical info on the ProVent can be found in this PDF document.
The installation was performed on a US-Spec 2004 Golf GL TDI-PD100 with a 5-speed manual transmission. I believe that this installation will also work for cars equipped with automatic transmissions, and it should also work for ALH-equipped A4 chassis (pre-2004) TDIs. Here is a diagram showing the suggested hose routings for installation in a 1999.5-2003 TDI (thanks to GeWilli for the original engine diagram). The ProVent is in red, the line from the stock CCV puck to the ProVent is in green, and the line from the ProVent to the intake is in blue.
Note for Non-PD Owners: The PD (BEW engine code) engine has the oil fill cap and the CCV puck reversed when compared to the ALH engine. Just remember that the hose from the CCV puck should go onto the top fitting on the ProVent, and the hose returning to the intake tract should be attached to the bottom fitting on the ProVent.
DISCLAIMER: The author assumes no responsibility for any damage caused to any vehicle, or any bodily harm, caused by following the instructions outlined in this document. The author is not affiliated in any way with Volkswagen AG or any of its subsidiaries, Mann+Hummel, Reliable Industries, or R.E. Morrison Equipment, Inc.
First, a look at the filter itself:
INSIDE THE PROVENT 200
The filter housing has an inlet at the top, an outlet with a pressure regulation valve at the bottom, and a drain hole at the bottom for condensed oil.
Here is a view of the ProVent disassembled:
Clockwise starting at top left we see the Housing Lid, the Housing, the outlet pressure regulation Valve Cap, the Bounting Bracket, and the Filter Element.
Here is a close up of the underside of the Housing Lid:
The Lid screws on to the top of the Housing and has an integrated overpressure relief valve to prevent excess pressure buildup should the Filter Element become clogged.
A similar pressure regulation valve can be seen at the outlet:
The Filter Element itself is made of a high density synthetic material:
Here is a view of the inside of the Housing, where the filter sits:
There is a void below the Filter in the Housing where condensed oil collects and drains to the hole at the bottom of the casing. This void holds approximately 78ml of fluid with the drain capped. Whether this is enough volume to collect condensed oil over a period of, say, 10,000 miles is unknown at this time. In my installation I have attached a section of 1/2" ID hose, capped at the end, to the drain hole, and will attempt to measure the rate of oil accumulation over the next few thousand miles.
Here is a view of the Filter inside the Housing:
FILTER INSTALLATION
My goals for my filter installation were three:
1. The installation should be as clean as possible;
2. It should fit under the engine cover; and
3. It should be as maintenance-free as possible.
Here is a diagram of my planned installation that I drew prior to installing the ProVent:
I attached the ProVent to the oil filter housing using metal plumbing strap (galvanized steel strapping with holes punched in it) and bolts with nylock nuts. I placed a slit-open section of tubing between the plumbing strap and the oil filter housing to prevent any damage to the housing.
For tubing, I hoped to find a source for molded oil-resistant hose that would allow me to reduce the number of unions in the hose route. I was unable to do so, so I used 3/4" ID unreinforced vinyl hose. The 3/4" ID hose requires heating to fit around the ProVent's fittings and the fittings on the CCV puck & intake, but it will result in tighter seals with less chance of leaking oil.
I chose a hose route that avoided putting pressure on any of the tubing, and allowed the engine cover to be installed without modification. Copper sweat-sweat 90 degree bends were used rather than PVC hose unions because I feared that the barbed hose unions would be too restrictive.
My list of materials came to this (prices in US dollars):
Mann-Hummel ProVent 200 - $160 incl. shipping
6 feet of 3/4" ID vinyl hose - $18
6 90 degree sweat-sweat copper unions - $3
16 hose clamps - $17
18" of 1/2" ID nylon-reinforced vinyl hose (attached to the drain hole in the ProVent) - $2
1 PVC 1/2" cap (on the end of the hose on the drain hole) - $0.50
1 roll of metal plumbing strap - $1.50
2 1/4"x1" bolts & 2 nylock nuts - $0.50
TOTAL COST: $202.50
Except for the ProVent, all the supplies were bought at the local hardware store. The following figure shows the lengths that I cut the hose to:
FINISHED INSTALLATION
Here is the finished installation:
The ProVent's inlet and outlet hoses fit in between coolant hoses. The fit is snug, but not too tight, and helps stabilize the hoses and the ProVent:
Make sure that none of the hose clamps rub on the heater hose. The metal hose clamps could wear a hole in the heater hose over time causing a coolant leak!
The engine cover fits over the setup, but I had to cut away some of the foam that wraps around the head where the hoses cross it:
I also had to cut a notch in the engine cover where the hoses exit:
And finally a view of the engine bay with the cover re-installed:
I left about 18" of hose attached to the ProVent's drain hose and plugged at the bottom. I will watch the oil accumulation there, and if less than 70ml of oil accumulates between 10,000mi oil changes, I will simply plug the bottom of the ProVent.
I'd suggest tightening all the hose clamps after you've driven it around a bit, while the engine is still hot. The tubing will soften and allow you to get a tighter seal around the copper fittings.
I hope this is helpful to you all and encourages you to install a similar system to keep your TDIs' intakes clean!
The VAG 1.9l TDI engine is one of the finest passenger car Diesel engines currently in use. However, while its EGR and CCV systems are extremely effective in keeping emissions in check, the soot from the EGR system combined with oil vapors from the CCV system can lead to deposits building up in the intake manifold. In order to prevent their engine’s intake manifold from becoming clogged with this buildup, many owners of TDIs have been looking for a high-quality filter to prevent the introduction of oil vapors from the crank case into the intake tract. Mann+Hummel makes a CCV filter for light-duty diesel engines, the ProVent 200. Though rather expensive (US$150), it is a high quality part with a long filter life (estimated at between 50,000 and 100,000mi when used in the VAG 1.9l TDI). I purchased mine from Reliable Industries Reliable Industriesin Louisiana, USA. It can be purchased in Canada from R.E. Morrison Equipment Inc. in Ontario. Detailed technical info on the ProVent can be found in this PDF document.
The installation was performed on a US-Spec 2004 Golf GL TDI-PD100 with a 5-speed manual transmission. I believe that this installation will also work for cars equipped with automatic transmissions, and it should also work for ALH-equipped A4 chassis (pre-2004) TDIs. Here is a diagram showing the suggested hose routings for installation in a 1999.5-2003 TDI (thanks to GeWilli for the original engine diagram). The ProVent is in red, the line from the stock CCV puck to the ProVent is in green, and the line from the ProVent to the intake is in blue.
Note for Non-PD Owners: The PD (BEW engine code) engine has the oil fill cap and the CCV puck reversed when compared to the ALH engine. Just remember that the hose from the CCV puck should go onto the top fitting on the ProVent, and the hose returning to the intake tract should be attached to the bottom fitting on the ProVent.
DISCLAIMER: The author assumes no responsibility for any damage caused to any vehicle, or any bodily harm, caused by following the instructions outlined in this document. The author is not affiliated in any way with Volkswagen AG or any of its subsidiaries, Mann+Hummel, Reliable Industries, or R.E. Morrison Equipment, Inc.
First, a look at the filter itself:
INSIDE THE PROVENT 200
The filter housing has an inlet at the top, an outlet with a pressure regulation valve at the bottom, and a drain hole at the bottom for condensed oil.
Here is a view of the ProVent disassembled:
Clockwise starting at top left we see the Housing Lid, the Housing, the outlet pressure regulation Valve Cap, the Bounting Bracket, and the Filter Element.
Here is a close up of the underside of the Housing Lid:
The Lid screws on to the top of the Housing and has an integrated overpressure relief valve to prevent excess pressure buildup should the Filter Element become clogged.
A similar pressure regulation valve can be seen at the outlet:
The Filter Element itself is made of a high density synthetic material:
Here is a view of the inside of the Housing, where the filter sits:
There is a void below the Filter in the Housing where condensed oil collects and drains to the hole at the bottom of the casing. This void holds approximately 78ml of fluid with the drain capped. Whether this is enough volume to collect condensed oil over a period of, say, 10,000 miles is unknown at this time. In my installation I have attached a section of 1/2" ID hose, capped at the end, to the drain hole, and will attempt to measure the rate of oil accumulation over the next few thousand miles.
Here is a view of the Filter inside the Housing:
FILTER INSTALLATION
My goals for my filter installation were three:
1. The installation should be as clean as possible;
2. It should fit under the engine cover; and
3. It should be as maintenance-free as possible.
Here is a diagram of my planned installation that I drew prior to installing the ProVent:
I attached the ProVent to the oil filter housing using metal plumbing strap (galvanized steel strapping with holes punched in it) and bolts with nylock nuts. I placed a slit-open section of tubing between the plumbing strap and the oil filter housing to prevent any damage to the housing.
For tubing, I hoped to find a source for molded oil-resistant hose that would allow me to reduce the number of unions in the hose route. I was unable to do so, so I used 3/4" ID unreinforced vinyl hose. The 3/4" ID hose requires heating to fit around the ProVent's fittings and the fittings on the CCV puck & intake, but it will result in tighter seals with less chance of leaking oil.
I chose a hose route that avoided putting pressure on any of the tubing, and allowed the engine cover to be installed without modification. Copper sweat-sweat 90 degree bends were used rather than PVC hose unions because I feared that the barbed hose unions would be too restrictive.
My list of materials came to this (prices in US dollars):
Mann-Hummel ProVent 200 - $160 incl. shipping
6 feet of 3/4" ID vinyl hose - $18
6 90 degree sweat-sweat copper unions - $3
16 hose clamps - $17
18" of 1/2" ID nylon-reinforced vinyl hose (attached to the drain hole in the ProVent) - $2
1 PVC 1/2" cap (on the end of the hose on the drain hole) - $0.50
1 roll of metal plumbing strap - $1.50
2 1/4"x1" bolts & 2 nylock nuts - $0.50
TOTAL COST: $202.50
Except for the ProVent, all the supplies were bought at the local hardware store. The following figure shows the lengths that I cut the hose to:
FINISHED INSTALLATION
Here is the finished installation:
The ProVent's inlet and outlet hoses fit in between coolant hoses. The fit is snug, but not too tight, and helps stabilize the hoses and the ProVent:
Make sure that none of the hose clamps rub on the heater hose. The metal hose clamps could wear a hole in the heater hose over time causing a coolant leak!
The engine cover fits over the setup, but I had to cut away some of the foam that wraps around the head where the hoses cross it:
I also had to cut a notch in the engine cover where the hoses exit:
And finally a view of the engine bay with the cover re-installed:
I left about 18" of hose attached to the ProVent's drain hose and plugged at the bottom. I will watch the oil accumulation there, and if less than 70ml of oil accumulates between 10,000mi oil changes, I will simply plug the bottom of the ProVent.
I'd suggest tightening all the hose clamps after you've driven it around a bit, while the engine is still hot. The tubing will soften and allow you to get a tighter seal around the copper fittings.
I hope this is helpful to you all and encourages you to install a similar system to keep your TDIs' intakes clean!
