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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs

VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old June 9th, 2004, 22:41   #1
Rammstein
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Québec city baby, Canada
TDI(s): Golf 92 D
Fuel Economy: 4.31/5.05/6.16
Default How to put rear fogs on a B4, OEM style!

Before we start, a big thank you to GetMore for his pictures and explanations.

Some pictures here are from him actually.

First, you need a Euroswitch. You have it or you don't. I guess a GLX switch will also do it, but you'll have both front and rear fogs at the same time, a little bit annoying if you ask me.

Second you'll need part # 000-979-133. It's a wire with "little clamps" fitted on the ends. You get them from the stealership (4$ CAD it cost me).

Here what it looks like:

There's 2 types of tip the stealership can put, this one:

And this one:

I prefer that latter one, it's the one I also used. The stealership provided me with both actually (bought 2 so I can use my credit card, 5$ minimum crap).

All set? Let's go!

Before I start, you have to know how to remove the little plastic pieces in the rear hatch and put 21W bulbs.

If you need pictures to do that, select the link "index" at the top here, because this mod isn't for you.

Also, it's a major PITA doing this, so be prepared mentally.

Tools you'll need:

Flash light (as small as possible), philips head screw driver (a #2, not the small small, neither the small, but the "medium one" otherwise you'll strip bolts' heads like crazy), an ajustable key (whatever that thing is called), a small flat head screw driver and a 10 mm key with a ratchet at the end of it.

The last tool is important to have because you'll use it to remove plastic 10 mm nuts. You can also use a wrachet with a 10 mm socket if you prefer.

Alright, remove the Euroswitch as per my previous post.

Take the wire you got at the dealer and plug it in pin 12 of the switch:

I know the pic is not very clear, but you should see a "12", just plug it there.

Take the other end of the wire and throw it in the dash (don't worry you won't loose it! ).

Next, remove the fuse door. If you're lucky, the yellow wire will come and say hello. If it doesn't, we'll reach to it later, it's not a problem.

We now need to remove the panel that's on top of the pedals (in between the knee bar and the body of the car, under the fuse box, precise enough?).

Just behind the hood release, there's a screw (you gonna have to creep there; tip: back the seat all the way, it will give you more space to work).

That's one, the second one is in line with the clutch. Feel it with your finger, it's there:

Yank the panel out (for real). Don't bend it and you won't brake it.

You can already see the fuse panel. I know, the black relay 109 is still there and no problems in 77 000 km!

You have to go behind the fuse relay, so put everything back together and get a plasma cutting torch you'll have to make a hole in the firewall now.

Kidding!!!!

You really have to get behind the fuse box, so you need more room to work.

We need to lower the knee bar. This part is vital, because we won't be able to put the wire easily on the reverse of the fuse box.

First, open a front door and remove the screws holding the knee bar in place. Note that I say knee bar and not knee bars.

As you'll see, it's one big piece of metal with two cushions rather than 2 cushions.

Take the philip's head screw driver.

These screws are a few years old (8 in my case), so they get stuck. Here where the adjustable key comes in play.


Do it on both sides. The knee bar should come loose.

It's loose, but there's not enough clearance yet.

Take the small flat head screw driver and lift the plastic piece surrounding the shifter.

Unscrew the shift knob. You may have to hold the bottom of it (before the leather) so it can twist out of there. Remove it.

Remove that rubber thingy.

Take the 10 mm key/wrench and remove the 2 plastic nuts in between the shifter and the arm brake. I wouldn't use a key here because you might strip the nuts.

Now go near the "diesel pedal" , you'll find 2 screws, remove them with the philip's head screw driver.

There's one on passenger side too, just in front of the cupholders.

This is what the screw looks like.

Take the leather cover off the arm brake. Just pull on it evenly until it comes off. We just need to get it off the plastic trim, no need to remove it.

Now you'll have to push back the arm brake/lockable compartment to unclip it. I didn't take pictures of it because you would'nt see anything anyway...
There are 2 little tab to be pushed down and then the piece of trim contaning the arm brake. Just push that piece of plastic back half an inch, not even, just so it it liberates the console (what's in front of the shifter).

Pull on the console.

The knee bar should come down.

Creep under the dash, so you see the fuse box.

The fuse box is held by 2 gray clips.

Pull them towards the back of the car (towards your soon to be rear fog lights).


Rotate the fuse box so you can see behind it. Picture by GetMore.

We're looking for the P6 connector. It's blue and removed on this picture. Picture from GetMore.

Here's a diagram of what the back of the fuse box looks like without the mess of wires. From OilburnerDE.

The P connector is besides the empty slot "N".

So here's what it looks like. Picture from GetMore. You don't need to remove the P connector. It's a major PITA to put back, let me tell ya!

So that's the "P", now you need slot 6 now.

The slot 6 is the first one on the right below the bigger ones. If you look at the picture above you should see a yellow wire going into it. Look at the top center of the picture, there's a yellow wire there, follow it down to P6.

Here's one of my pics showing it. Follow the small flat head screw driver and you'll find the yellow wire and the P6 slot.

GetMore suggested me to remove the connector, but I just plugged it in and it worked. You have to press insanely hard...

I also removed the P connector and it has a clip on one side but a well...a protuberance or a small penis if you want , and is impossible to put back in place without cutting it.

The wire falls off the connector all the time too, so you're better off forcing insanely on the wire.

Orient it the right way before forcing though.

As you can see in the picture the pins go north/south or front of the car/back of the car.

Now it's testing time!

You should get thisNote that the key has to be in at "on" without starting the car so the rear fogs light up)




With the back up lights and everything:

Put everything back together following the instructions backwards and you'll be alright.

Be carefull when putting the fuse box back in its brakets so you don't squeeze any wires.

Took me like 6 hours to figure this out, now it should take you a hour to this and put everything back together!

Got any questions?
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Old June 10th, 2004, 07:01   #2
OilBurnerDE
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Default How to put rear fogs on a B4, OEM style!

Execellent write up Ram.


I noticed that you mentioned that you had a hard time removing and reinstalling the P connector.

The fuse panel has a sliding lock in it that holds the connectors in place. it is in the middle, between the two rows of connectors.



If you look at the picture you we see that the inside of each connector has a pin of sorts pointing to the middle of the fuse panel.

On the right side of the fuse panel (at least I think it is the right side) there is a little tab that you pull out and that will release the lock on all the pins allowing you to pull out the connectors without problems.

Again, nice job on the write up!

Also wanted to add, that at least on the 97's you don't have to mess with the center console.
You only have to remove the left side of the knee bar, since it is a two piece design. And that the job can be done with out removing the knee bar. But removing it gives you that much more space to work with.
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Old June 10th, 2004, 09:45   #3
Rammstein
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Default How to put rear fogs on a B4, OEM style!

Didn't know about the sliding unlocking thingy...

So the 97's have knee bars and 96's have knee bar...I see an upgrade coming up...

It's nearly impossible to do this job without removing the kneebar IMO.

I tried to do it with the knee bar unscrewed from each side, but wasn't able to see anything.
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Old June 16th, 2004, 04:13   #4
Manny_Rodriguez
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Default How to put rear fogs on a B4, OEM style!

Salut,
C'est très bien fait ton DIY . Je viens d'apprendre quelque chose de nouveau. J'ai une petite question pour toi :
Si je veux juste avoir mes fogs arrière comme deuxième lumière de stop, qu'est-ce que je dois faire ?
En passant j'ai une B3. Merci d'avance.
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Old June 21st, 2004, 09:21   #5
dieseldorf
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Default How to put rear fogs on a B4, OEM style!

Rammstein, nice job with this and locating the connection (P connector) at the front of the car.

I took the lazy man's way out and just ran a wire from the euroswitch to the left rear fender where I located the wire that powers up the fog light.

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Old June 21st, 2004, 09:33   #6
Rammstein
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Default How to put rear fogs on a B4, OEM style!

Thanks DieselDorf!

More of less trouble this way...

I have put a bulb on both sides, did you?
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Old June 21st, 2004, 09:47   #7
dieseldorf
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Default How to put rear fogs on a B4, OEM style!

Quote:


I have put a bulb on both sides, did you?
nah, driver's side only on both cars.

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Old March 10th, 2005, 21:27   #8
ColoTDI
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Default Re: How to put rear fogs on a B4, OEM style!

Hey Ram! Thanks for the awesome write up, and GetMore and OilBurnerDE thanks for the pics and information!!

I just got my rear fogs installed. I've had a '95 VR6 head light switch with the single fog pull, but nothing for it to operate. I went to the dealer and got the 000-979-133 for $3, then picked up the 2 bulbs. I did not remove the knee-bar, however when I was pulling on the fuse block, I kept thinking that I was unplugging things trying to see behind it.

I did pull the tab and remove the plug from the block. That made it easier to verify that I was lining the plug wire up correctly before plugging it into the blue "P" plug. I just went by the above pics since the plug had no numbers, and I couldn't really see very well.

After putting it all back together, it did not work! I knew I did everything that was discussed here exact. After popping the trunk lid I noticed the rear fogs WERE then on... Long story short... A couple wires in the trunk were dangling and barely touching each other. I got that fixed up, and I now have perfectly working rear fogs!

Thanks again to all you guys for all your efforts and help! And even though I had to splice wires together, the whole process only took just over an hour! I definately couldn't have done it without all the above info!!
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Old March 11th, 2005, 07:37   #9
Rammstein
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Default Re: How to put rear fogs on a B4, OEM style!

No problem ColoTDI!
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Old December 15th, 2005, 23:09   #10
navyboy65
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Does anyone know if there is a similar mod for a A4 Jetta like this. I have seen where you get diods and the one where you run the wire from the switch to the rear of the car!!!??
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Old October 4th, 2008, 11:00   #11
carcas55
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Montréal, Québec
TDI(s): 2003 GLS
Fuel Economy: +/- 7litres / 100 kms
Smile remplacer un ampoule brulée......

Salut le monde,

Petite question - je veux changer la lumière brulée dans mon cendrier. Y as tu quelqu'un qui a la procédure ?

Merci ben gro......

carcas55
VW Jetta GLS TDI 2003

Last edited by carcas55; October 4th, 2008 at 11:02. Reason: errors
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Old December 18th, 2009, 16:27   #12
kooyajerms
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bump, more people with euroswitches need rear fogs, this is super easy, and like Eric said no need to pull the kneebar and center console out.

I was too lazy to pull the kneebar and center console out again (last time it as off, was for my short shifter), so the wires been hanging from the euroswitch for a year now!

Just be careful clipping the fuse panel back in. I broke a tab.

This and the 5 light brake mod, make for a whole lotta lighting in the back.
With rear fogs on your hatch lights don't get brighter though when braking. Not sure if anyone else has experienced that.

Thanks Mackconsult for the picture-how-to on the 5 light
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/4617/5_...brake_mode.pdf
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Old January 6th, 2010, 20:22   #13
trev0006
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Thanks for the bump, I was looking for this.



Quote:
Originally Posted by kooyajerms
bump, more people with euroswitches need rear fogs, this is super easy, and like Eric said no need to pull the kneebar and center console out.

I was too lazy to pull the kneebar and center console out again (last time it as off, was for my short shifter), so the wires been hanging from the euroswitch for a year now!

Just be careful clipping the fuse panel back in. I broke a tab.

This and the 5 light brake mod, make for a whole lotta lighting in the back.
With rear fogs on your hatch lights don't get brighter though when braking. Not sure if anyone else has experienced that.

Thanks Mackconsult for the picture-how-to on the 5 light
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/4617/5_...brake_mode.pdf
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