Rammstein
Top Post Dawg
Before we start, a big thank you to GetMore for his pictures and explanations.
Some pictures here are from him actually.
First, you need a Euroswitch. You have it or you don't. I guess a GLX switch will also do it, but you'll have both front and rear fogs at the same time, a little bit annoying if you ask me.
Second you'll need part # 000-979-133. It's a wire with "little clamps" fitted on the ends. You get them from the stealership (4$ CAD it cost me).
Here what it looks like:
There's 2 types of tip the stealership can put, this one:
And this one:
I prefer that latter one, it's the one I also used. The stealership provided me with both actually (bought 2 so I can use my credit card, 5$ minimum crap).
All set? Let's go!
Before I start, you have to know how to remove the little plastic pieces in the rear hatch and put 21W bulbs.
If you need pictures to do that, select the link "index" at the top here, because this mod isn't for you.
Also, it's a major PITA doing this, so be prepared mentally.
Tools you'll need:
Flash light (as small as possible), philips head screw driver (a #2, not the small small, neither the small, but the "medium one" otherwise you'll strip bolts' heads like crazy), an ajustable key (whatever that thing is called), a small flat head screw driver and a 10 mm key with a ratchet at the end of it.
The last tool is important to have because you'll use it to remove plastic 10 mm nuts. You can also use a wrachet with a 10 mm socket if you prefer.
Alright, remove the Euroswitch as per my previous post.
Take the wire you got at the dealer and plug it in pin 12 of the switch:
I know the pic is not very clear, but you should see a "12", just plug it there.
Take the other end of the wire and throw it in the dash (don't worry you won't loose it!
).
Next, remove the fuse door. If you're lucky, the yellow wire will come and say hello. If it doesn't, we'll reach to it later, it's not a problem.
We now need to remove the panel that's on top of the pedals (in between the knee bar and the body of the car, under the fuse box, precise enough?).
Just behind the hood release, there's a screw (you gonna have to creep there; tip: back the seat all the way, it will give you more space to work).
That's one, the second one is in line with the clutch. Feel it with your finger, it's there:
Yank the panel out (for real). Don't bend it and you won't brake it.
You can already see the fuse panel. I know, the black relay 109 is still there and no problems in 77 000 km!
You have to go behind the fuse relay, so put everything back together and get a plasma cutting torch you'll have to make a hole in the firewall now.
Kidding!!!!
You really have to get behind the fuse box, so you need more room to work.
We need to lower the knee bar. This part is vital, because we won't be able to put the wire easily on the reverse of the fuse box.
First, open a front door and remove the screws holding the knee bar in place. Note that I say knee bar and not knee bars.
As you'll see, it's one big piece of metal with two cushions rather than 2 cushions.
Take the philip's head screw driver.
These screws are a few years old (8 in my case), so they get stuck. Here where the adjustable key comes in play.
Do it on both sides. The knee bar should come loose.
It's loose, but there's not enough clearance yet.
Take the small flat head screw driver and lift the plastic piece surrounding the shifter.
Unscrew the shift knob. You may have to hold the bottom of it (before the leather) so it can twist out of there. Remove it.
Remove that rubber thingy.
Take the 10 mm key/wrench and remove the 2 plastic nuts in between the shifter and the arm brake. I wouldn't use a key here because you might strip the nuts.
Now go near the "diesel pedal"
, you'll find 2 screws, remove them with the philip's head screw driver.
There's one on passenger side too, just in front of the cupholders.
This is what the screw looks like.
Take the leather cover off the arm brake. Just pull on it evenly until it comes off. We just need to get it off the plastic trim, no need to remove it.
Now you'll have to push back the arm brake/lockable compartment to unclip it. I didn't take pictures of it because you would'nt see anything anyway...
There are 2 little tab to be pushed down and then the piece of trim contaning the arm brake. Just push that piece of plastic back half an inch, not even, just so it it liberates the console (what's in front of the shifter).
Pull on the console.
The knee bar should come down.
Creep under the dash, so you see the fuse box.
The fuse box is held by 2 gray clips.
Pull them towards the back of the car (towards your soon to be rear fog lights).
Rotate the fuse box so you can see behind it. Picture by GetMore.
We're looking for the P6 connector. It's blue and removed on this picture. Picture from GetMore.
Here's a diagram of what the back of the fuse box looks like without the mess of wires. From OilburnerDE.
The P connector is besides the empty slot "N".
So here's what it looks like. Picture from GetMore. You don't need to remove the P connector. It's a major PITA to put back, let me tell ya!
So that's the "P", now you need slot 6 now.
The slot 6 is the first one on the right below the bigger ones. If you look at the picture above you should see a yellow wire going into it. Look at the top center of the picture, there's a yellow wire there, follow it down to P6.
Here's one of my pics showing it. Follow the small flat head screw driver and you'll find the yellow wire and the P6 slot.
GetMore suggested me to remove the connector, but I just plugged it in and it worked. You have to press insanely hard...
I also removed the P connector and it has a clip on one side but a well...a protuberance or a small penis if you want
, and is impossible to put back in place without cutting it.
The wire falls off the connector all the time too, so you're better off forcing insanely on the wire.
Orient it the right way before forcing though.
As you can see in the picture the pins go north/south or front of the car/back of the car.
Now it's testing time!
You should get this
Note that the key has to be in at "on" without starting the car so the rear fogs light up)
With the back up lights and everything:
Put everything back together following the instructions backwards and you'll be alright.
Be carefull when putting the fuse box back in its brakets so you don't squeeze any wires.
Took me like 6 hours to figure this out, now it should take you a hour to this and put everything back together!
Got any questions?
Some pictures here are from him actually.
First, you need a Euroswitch. You have it or you don't. I guess a GLX switch will also do it, but you'll have both front and rear fogs at the same time, a little bit annoying if you ask me.
Second you'll need part # 000-979-133. It's a wire with "little clamps" fitted on the ends. You get them from the stealership (4$ CAD it cost me).
Here what it looks like:
There's 2 types of tip the stealership can put, this one:
And this one:
I prefer that latter one, it's the one I also used. The stealership provided me with both actually (bought 2 so I can use my credit card, 5$ minimum crap).
All set? Let's go!
Before I start, you have to know how to remove the little plastic pieces in the rear hatch and put 21W bulbs.
If you need pictures to do that, select the link "index" at the top here, because this mod isn't for you.
Also, it's a major PITA doing this, so be prepared mentally.
Tools you'll need:
Flash light (as small as possible), philips head screw driver (a #2, not the small small, neither the small, but the "medium one" otherwise you'll strip bolts' heads like crazy), an ajustable key (whatever that thing is called), a small flat head screw driver and a 10 mm key with a ratchet at the end of it.
The last tool is important to have because you'll use it to remove plastic 10 mm nuts. You can also use a wrachet with a 10 mm socket if you prefer.
Alright, remove the Euroswitch as per my previous post.
Take the wire you got at the dealer and plug it in pin 12 of the switch:
I know the pic is not very clear, but you should see a "12", just plug it there.
Take the other end of the wire and throw it in the dash (don't worry you won't loose it!
Next, remove the fuse door. If you're lucky, the yellow wire will come and say hello. If it doesn't, we'll reach to it later, it's not a problem.
We now need to remove the panel that's on top of the pedals (in between the knee bar and the body of the car, under the fuse box, precise enough?).
Just behind the hood release, there's a screw (you gonna have to creep there; tip: back the seat all the way, it will give you more space to work).
That's one, the second one is in line with the clutch. Feel it with your finger, it's there:
Yank the panel out (for real). Don't bend it and you won't brake it.
You can already see the fuse panel. I know, the black relay 109 is still there and no problems in 77 000 km!
You have to go behind the fuse relay, so put everything back together and get a plasma cutting torch you'll have to make a hole in the firewall now.
Kidding!!!!
You really have to get behind the fuse box, so you need more room to work.
We need to lower the knee bar. This part is vital, because we won't be able to put the wire easily on the reverse of the fuse box.
First, open a front door and remove the screws holding the knee bar in place. Note that I say knee bar and not knee bars.
As you'll see, it's one big piece of metal with two cushions rather than 2 cushions.
Take the philip's head screw driver.
These screws are a few years old (8 in my case), so they get stuck. Here where the adjustable key comes in play.
Do it on both sides. The knee bar should come loose.
It's loose, but there's not enough clearance yet.
Take the small flat head screw driver and lift the plastic piece surrounding the shifter.
Unscrew the shift knob. You may have to hold the bottom of it (before the leather) so it can twist out of there. Remove it.
Remove that rubber thingy.
Take the 10 mm key/wrench and remove the 2 plastic nuts in between the shifter and the arm brake. I wouldn't use a key here because you might strip the nuts.
Now go near the "diesel pedal"
There's one on passenger side too, just in front of the cupholders.
This is what the screw looks like.
Take the leather cover off the arm brake. Just pull on it evenly until it comes off. We just need to get it off the plastic trim, no need to remove it.
Now you'll have to push back the arm brake/lockable compartment to unclip it. I didn't take pictures of it because you would'nt see anything anyway...
There are 2 little tab to be pushed down and then the piece of trim contaning the arm brake. Just push that piece of plastic back half an inch, not even, just so it it liberates the console (what's in front of the shifter).
Pull on the console.
The knee bar should come down.
Creep under the dash, so you see the fuse box.
The fuse box is held by 2 gray clips.
Pull them towards the back of the car (towards your soon to be rear fog lights).
Rotate the fuse box so you can see behind it. Picture by GetMore.
We're looking for the P6 connector. It's blue and removed on this picture. Picture from GetMore.
Here's a diagram of what the back of the fuse box looks like without the mess of wires. From OilburnerDE.
The P connector is besides the empty slot "N".
So here's what it looks like. Picture from GetMore. You don't need to remove the P connector. It's a major PITA to put back, let me tell ya!
So that's the "P", now you need slot 6 now.
The slot 6 is the first one on the right below the bigger ones. If you look at the picture above you should see a yellow wire going into it. Look at the top center of the picture, there's a yellow wire there, follow it down to P6.
Here's one of my pics showing it. Follow the small flat head screw driver and you'll find the yellow wire and the P6 slot.
GetMore suggested me to remove the connector, but I just plugged it in and it worked. You have to press insanely hard...
I also removed the P connector and it has a clip on one side but a well...a protuberance or a small penis if you want
The wire falls off the connector all the time too, so you're better off forcing insanely on the wire.
Orient it the right way before forcing though.
As you can see in the picture the pins go north/south or front of the car/back of the car.
Now it's testing time!
You should get this
Note that the key has to be in at "on" without starting the car so the rear fogs light up)
With the back up lights and everything:
Put everything back together following the instructions backwards and you'll be alright.
Be carefull when putting the fuse box back in its brakets so you don't squeeze any wires.
Took me like 6 hours to figure this out, now it should take you a hour to this and put everything back together!
Got any questions?
