WOW NEW EGR BECAUSE ANTI-SHUDDER BROKEN? - Page 2

Frank M · November 13th, 2003, 03:00

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Powder Hound said:
I sure hope that none of you guys that have left the broken anti-shudder broken never have a turbo or other kind of failure that blows oil into the intake. You'll have no way to shut down the engine, and it'll overrev until it self destructs.

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I will just put mine in 5th and let the clutch out while stopped... [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

Parkboy · November 13th, 2003, 06:53

I broke mine at the vacuum hose nipple. Anyone got a fix for that???

bowlerman · March 4th, 2004, 12:30

did the same thing, i have just left vacuum hose hanging around. doesnt reallt btogher anything except shutdown rougher

jasonTDI · March 6th, 2004, 20:36

Guys....simple way around breaking these. Don't remove the freakin' thing from the car! Sheesh. I have cleaned about 15 intakes and NEVER remove this or disconnect the EGR. I just clean it ON the car. No broken parts.

Wingnut · April 24th, 2004, 21:20

Depending on how clogged it is, cleaning it over the engine can be messy. Besides, it is really easy to remove it without breaking it. Firstly, using a heat gun or hair dryer, heat the end of it. The heat will soften the plastic to allow it to bend more rather than break. Just use a flat head screwdriver and pry it off the stem.

I repaired another one today for a member who broke his. Here is where the break was:

Using some super glue or even model glue, put it back together. This is not to repair it since it will break in short order. It is to keep it together while performing the rest of the repair.

Cut a piece of sheet steel. If you don't have any, an old pop can or can o beans will work:

Cut the piece so that it looks something like this. I did this late on a Sat night (yes, I have no life) so It was a rush job and not very pretty, but you get the point.

Wrap the piece around the end of the connecting rod. This will hold it all together & strengthen the piece.

Now wrap the tabs around the rod to secure the piece in place.

I used a pice of shrink wrap tubing to make it a little more asthetically pleasing. It will also help to hold everything together.

Now just reassemble the rod back in the diaphragm and reinstall onto the EGR valve. The steel band will hold up better than the plastic one.

Uniac666 · April 24th, 2004, 22:37

Wingnut is simply amazing.

Frank M · April 25th, 2004, 04:47

Excellent idea!!!.
Thanks for the post...
This looks like a permanent solution too.

robere · April 25th, 2004, 12:25

Can you just clean the EGR by removing the intercooler pipe and cleaning around the vave w/ your fingers?

(every 20 000 kms)

Wingnut · April 25th, 2004, 18:07

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Can you just clean the EGR by removing the intercooler pipe and cleaning around the vave w/ your fingers?

(every 20 000 kms)

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Nope. The butterfly valve is in the way. The clogging goes quite deep into the intake. Even taking of the EGR to clean it is not always enough. Intake removal is the prefered method to get it all, but you could clean just the EGR and the beginning part of the intake if you are very carefull not to drop any chunks into the intake.

TDiMike · April 26th, 2004, 11:33

I was able to fix my busted anti-shudder valve with cable ties and metal rods that act as a splint. Works great for over 20,000 kms since my EGR cleanout.

Next time I cleanout the EGR, I just clip off the cable ties, and do the work, then put new ties on when I'm done. Hence I don't keep breaking this anti-shudder control arms.

So, I would say to all the posters in this thread: DON'T bother getting a new EGR from Impex or whereever, just repair it like I've done or the other posters have shown and you'll be fine. No point replacing this plastic piece with another new plastic piece if you're just going to break it again.

Wingnut · April 26th, 2004, 17:33

Good one!

The butterfly valve is not spring loaded so it does not take a super strong fix to make it work. It depends on where the rod breaks. There are many possible fixes for a variation of break locations.

Anyone else have pics on thier fix?

Vik F · April 27th, 2004, 00:22

nice fix wingnut [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

frugality · April 27th, 2004, 01:33

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Firstly, using a heat gun or hair dryer, heat the end of it. The heat will soften the plastic to allow it to bend more rather than break. Just use a flat head screwdriver and pry it off the stem.

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I took the advice of somone on this board who said NOT to disconned the butterfly valve linkage at all. Just pull the vacuum hose and remove the whole assembly. Be gentle with it and it'll come off O.K. Someone else recommeded cutting the vacuum hose and installing a butt joint. That way, the next time you clean it all you have to do is separate it at the joint.

Here's my EGR valve before cleaning, and you can see the vacuum line. By gently twisting it on the fitting with a slip-joint pliers and by prying gently with a small screwdriver at the end I was able to get it off. The fabric covering got a little frayed, but the hose is O.K.

VelvetFoot · April 27th, 2004, 05:02

Nice repair!

Even gentle twisting might not be easy enough, I know.

Wingnut · April 27th, 2004, 08:40

[quote
I took the advice of somone on this board who said NOT to disconned the butterfly valve linkage at all. Just pull the vacuum hose and remove the whole assembly. Be gentle with it and it'll come off O.K. Someone else recommeded cutting the vacuum hose and installing a butt joint. That way, the next time you clean it all you have to do is separate it at the joint.

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There is no wrong or right way to take off the EGR. Everyones car is different and different tecniques work for different people. Age can be a factor too. The older the car, the more stuck on the vacuum lines can be. If the vacuum line comes off, then great. I just prefer to remove the rod because if the vacuum nipple breaks, it is more difficult to repair than the rod. I am just speaking from my experiences here, but I have removed about a dozen EGR's and have not broken one rod with the heatgun method.

Someone else did it by taking the vacuum line off at the diaphragm and ended up breaking the nipple. He had a good fix for it. He used a straw from a WD40 can or somthing like that to join the two pieces of the nipple back together. It acted like a sleeve to reinforce the joint.

Cutting the line is by far the safest way to remove it. But some people are anal about cutting & splicing joints. Even though it is simple and there are other similar joints in the vacuum system, some people prefer it to be 100% original. So as I said before, it all depends on the person doing the job. Whatever works is good.