A3 Timing procedure writeup

paramedick

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor
Joined
Jul 29, 2001
Location
Versailles, Kentucky
TDI
2015 Audi Q5 TDI
OK, time to adjust the timing in the Jetta. Timing graph reads slightly retarded.

Find the two bolts under the gear, and loosen 1 turn. Find the bolt on front side of pump and loosen 1 turn. Search and search, and finally find the bolt under the fuel lines and loosen 1 turn. Loosen all fuel line 1/2 to 1 turn.

Now, try to rotate the pump slightly toward the firewall. Pump WILL NOT BUDGE!

OK guys, what am I doing wrong? Did I miss a double secret pump bolt only known by those annointed by the VW Gods?
Seriously, advice please.

Search revealed bolt locations, but did not say anything about a stuck pump.

If it helps, I have all the finer MG tools. Hammer, bigger hammer, really BIG hammer, etc.


Thanks
 

Herm TDI

Vendor
Joined
Nov 21, 2001
Location
Richmond, Maine...The far side of Witsend
TDI
2002 Golf GLS Malone Stage 3, P+520 nozzles, 11MM Inj pump, Sachs VR6 clutch, Stelth Race Pipe, Immo Deleat, EGR Deleat
A3 Timing help

OK....I've only ever had one A-3 pump not move for a timing adjustment. And that was because it was already at the end of its range of travel.

If you can't move the pump in either direction....try using a little WD-40 in the bottom adjustment slot. This is the bolt below the fuel lines. Then....using a short wodden dowel...against the bottom of the pump body tap firmly with a non-metalic hammer ( DO NOT pry ...tap..or slap on any of the upper sections of the bump body...you WILL knock something out of alignment).

Befor you do this ....do "The Wiggle Test"
using the tips of your fingers...wiggle the two front mount bolts...and see if your can make both bolts wiggle. Also wiggle the bottom bolt and the front bolt too.

Herm
 

runonbeer

Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Location
Austin, TX/Chapel Hill, NC
TDI
'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
A3 Timing help

the "impossible to find bolt" may still be too tight.
or
I had to use a big screwdriver and pry against the (?)powersteering pump(?) (no its not the ps pump I think its just part of the bracket or somting) to get it to move. once I saw the numbers i wanted, I had a free hand to lock down the bolt in front.
Pry gently, all that stuff is aluminum
 

paramedick

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor
Joined
Jul 29, 2001
Location
Versailles, Kentucky
TDI
2015 Audi Q5 TDI
A3 Timing help

OK, it's official. Herm's the man! Rononbeer was dead on, also. A slight further loosening of the bolt under the fuel lines, and a little liquid wrench to grease sliding surfaces, and Ouila! Timing exactly where I want it to be.

For all those interested, a 13mm curved wrench makes managing the bolt under the fuel lines a snap. These wrenches used to be called "carburetor wrenches", used to tighten mounting bolts.

Would a good write up be helpful to all? Happy to do it if there is a need. Gonna have lots of time next week after surgery Friday.

Thanks to all.
 

VWannabe

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 2, 1999
Location
Lawrenceville, GA USA
A3 Timing help

I would appreciate a write-up on this procedure. I have an A3 and may need to change my timing after I put a VAG-COM on it. Many of the write-ups I have seen are for A4's and have differences that must be adjusted for midway through a procedure.
 

Herm TDI

Vendor
Joined
Nov 21, 2001
Location
Richmond, Maine...The far side of Witsend
TDI
2002 Golf GLS Malone Stage 3, P+520 nozzles, 11MM Inj pump, Sachs VR6 clutch, Stelth Race Pipe, Immo Deleat, EGR Deleat
A3 Timing help

Tools you will need
1. Stubby Straight slot screw driver (to remove TB cover)
2. Inspection Mirror(to see into the pump sprocket holes)
3. Cam-Shaft Counter Holding Tool (use this to rotate the cam sproket & Timing Belt)
4. 13MM combination Wrench
5. 13MM 1/4" Dr deep socket & ratchet
6. 13MM 3/8" Dr swivle socket
7. 12" 3/8" Dr extention
8.Vag-Com
Remove the top timing Belt(TB) cover. Using the Cam counter-holding tool, rotate the cam/TB forward (towards the injection pump). Use the inspection mirro to look into the holes on the inj. pump sproket and alighn the large holes over the two(2) mount bolts. Once you have the pump sproket correctly aligned over the mount bolts...use the 1/4" Dr 13mm deep socket to loosen the two bolts.
Then use the 13MM swivel and extention to loosen the bottom bolt on the pump below the fuel lines.
The last bolt on the front of the pump leave this one tight...for now.
Start the engine...and connect Vag-Com...in the engine control module...in basic settings...group "0" click read.
Read blocks 2 & 9 ( or use the timing graph)

If your timing is low on the graph..then your timing is Retarded..and you need to advance it. To advance the injection timing...slowly loosen the front pump nut...As you hold the top of the pump housing in your hand...slowly rotate the pump towards the firewall. Rotate the pump as you read the timing graph in Vag-Com. Once you reach the position that you want...tighten the front pump bolt with the 13mm wrench.
Turn off the engine..and tighten the 2 pump mount bolts thru the pump sproket(you may need to rotate the TB with the cam counter holding tool). then tighten the bottom bolt with the extention and swivle socket.
Once the pump is tightened down with all four(4) mount bolts. Then you must also releave the stress on the fuel lines. Using a 17MM ( I think it's a 17) wrench loosen all 8 of the fuel line B-nuts. The easiest way is to remove the ends from the pump so you can loosen that bottom fuel line on the pump...then reinstall the fuel lines working from the bottom up...then tighten the B-nuts at the injectors.
Start the engine....check your timing again with Vag-Com
 

paramedick

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor
Joined
Jul 29, 2001
Location
Versailles, Kentucky
TDI
2015 Audi Q5 TDI
Procedure for A3 Timing using VAG-COM timing graph

Note: Timing can be set using basic settings, group 00, blocks 2 and 9 in VAG-COM and a graph in the Bentley manual.

Tools needed. Laptop computer with VAG-COM v. 303.1, or higher. Suitable cable to connect to car from laptop. Flashlight. 13mm box end wrench. 13mm carburetor/curved wrench or stubby box end wrench. Straight screwdriver w/ cabinet tip. Stubby straight screwdriver. 1/4 or 3/8 ratchet with 13mm and 10mm deepwell sockets. 17mm brake line wrench, but a 17mm open end wrench can be used, if necessary. Pliers. Lubricant in spray can (liquid wrench/WD 40/Triflow/etc.)

Allow 2 hours for your first time with this adventure. After doing it once, bet I can do in easily in an hour or less.

Car must be at operating temperature to set the timing!

Remove the top cover from the engine by prying off the 3 circular plastic caps, and removing the 3 nuts with a 10mm deepwell socket. Unclip black wire from back edge of cover. Set aside after putting nuts in holes of cover and snapping caps back on. This prevents loss of small parts.

Remove the air supply line between the MAF and the air inlet snorkle.

Half way down black timing cover near center is a plastic screw. Remove with stubby screwdriver. Can use either phillips or regular. Careful! Easy to drop into bottom pan.

For the following descriptions, visualize a clock face.

Look at timing cover. There are latch clips at 1:00-2:00 and 8:00 that must be loosened. At 11:00 is a plastic tab that secures to engine that just needs to be lifted and pulled back. Timing cover will now be loose. Do not remove yet.

Note that at 12:00 is a small hose in a clip. Gently lift the top of the clip and slide out hose. Disconnect this from the hard plastic tubing, and place out of the way. At 1:00 is a clip holding two fuel lines. Remove from clip. At 10:00, inboard from edge of cover, is a plastic clip holding 3 small hoses (red, blue, black). The clip assembly can be released from timing cover by inserting straight-tip screwdriver at top of clip, and releasing tab. Pull away from timing cover.

Now that everything is released from timing cover, pull upward and remove from engine bay. Set aside. Reconnect hose at 12:00 position.

While you are here, take the time to examine timing belt. Look for cracking, ragged edges, etc. If you think there is a problem with anything, get it checked!

Look at toothed timing belt gear that is directly behind injector pump assembly. Note holes in it. Feel into holes for bolts at the 10:00 and 5:00 positions. If bolts centered in holes, you lucked out! If not, put car in 5th gear, and slowly roll car until bolt heads centered in holes. Using 13mm deepwell on ratchet, loosen bolts until can be easily "wiggled" with fingers. Usually 1 full turn. Do not back out so far that bolts can contact gear when turning!

Look at the end of the injector pump where the fuel lines connect. Reach under fuel lines, and feel 13mm bolt head toward the engine side of pump assembly. Using 13mm curved wrench, loosen 1 turn and wiggle. Can use stubby 13mm wrench, but much harder to do. Other members have stated that a 13 mm socket on a universal swivel works well. Somewhat easier if you remove the wires connected to injector pump on this end. Just squeeze the 2 metal wire clips, and pull away. Do not pull on wires. Reconnect wires after loosening bolt, or your car will not start. EDIT: a flex head ratcheting wrench works great for this bolt!

Start engine. Connect line from car to laptop. Start VAG-COM 303.1. Select control modules. Select 01-engine. Allow program to establish communications with car. Select 08-measuring blocks. In top row of boxes, use up arrow to change selected measuring block to 02, then down arrow to scroll to 00. Select basic settings box in left lower corner of screen box. Select timing graph box in right lower corner of screen box. Timing graph should now be displayed.

Note current timing as graphed on timing graph. Under graph is description telling you exactly where your timing is set. To change timing, perform the following steps.

Look at the injector pump. When facing from driver's side, note bolt at the 10:00 position. Loosen 1 full turn and ensure it passes the "wiggle" test.

Gently rotate pump. To advance timing, rotate toward firewall. To retard timing, rotate toward grille/front of car. A slight nudge goes a long way. Lock down the 10:00 bolt, and check setting on timing graph. You may have to loosen bolt and rotate several times until you get the optimal setting. I set my timing centered between midpoint and top of chart, for advanced setting. Note: If second person available, they can guide you while you rotate pump, saving several trial and error rotations. Tighten the 10:00 bolt securely to prevent further pump rotation and loss of settings. You may now shut off your engine. Next time I do this, I am going to roll down the passenger side window, and place my laptop on a sturdy stand beside my car so I can see the screen while rotating pump.

If your pump will not rotate, there may be some corrosion holding it to mounting surfaces. Lightly spray rotation areas of pump with suitable lubricant. Don't forget the surface in the area of the bolt under fuel lines. A little bit goes a long way! Under no circumstances should you spray ANYTHING on the timing belt side! Allow a few minutes to penetrate. Pump should rotate easily now. Do this with the engine off to prevent aspiration of lubricant into engine.

Release any tension on fuel lines to prevent breakage of line. Loosen fuel lines at injector pump and fuel injectors with 17mm brake line wrench. 1/2 turn is sufficient. Can use open end wrench, but be careful! Tighten but do not get overly agressive to prevent breakage of nut or damage to injector. Just make sure no leakage.

Tighten bolt under injector pump, and the two in the holes in the toothed gear.

Using VAG-COM, scan for any error codes that may have been generated by running engine with MAF disconnected. Clear these.

Reassemble all components in the order removed. Disconnect hose at 12:00 position to give you room to work. Also, don't forget to reattach small hose in the 12:00 position.

Enjoy the new pep that your TDI has!

Uwe and the gang at Ross-Tech, thanks for the phenomenal timing graph in the new version of VAG-COM. This made the job almost TOO easy!
 
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bowlerman

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2001
Location
medford, NJ
TDI
2001 jetta tdi black
A3 Timing help

if you have 2 people do a running timing, it saves so much time. i do it that way now. one person moving pump, one person watching vag com.
 

chuckbrush

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2003
Location
Warner Springs, CA
TDI
Passat 96 Deep Red
Paramedick, Those instructions are just the ticket! If I can't follow that procedure, maybe I shouldn't be wrenching on it in the first place. Thanks very much... Chuck
 

slapshotjh

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Location
CT
TDI
97 GLX B4V
Can somebody tell me which tdi graph you are supposed to select in the drop down menu? From memory I remember seeing a 1z or ahu but the date was post 1994. The other choice that was close was ALH. My cars are a3 jetta and b4 passat. Was there a 1z/ahu sold somewhere that was built in 94?
 

greengeeker

Vendor
Joined
Feb 8, 2006
Location
Cambridge, MN
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS
this thread threw me for a loop...why the heck is Bruce asking for A3 timing help. Then I noticed the date :eek: (that's one heckuva necropost)
 

Diesel Mania

Active member
Joined
Mar 4, 2001
Location
El Dorado, CA USA
TDI
1997 Passat
Timing After Injection Pump Replacement

After just replacing a badly leaking (numerous gaskets all at once) injection pump, I am ready to set IP time. Engine needed lots of cranking with smoke, but fired and warmed up Ok. Once at operating temp (had to drive as idle won't warm it enough) using VAG - basic setting - TDI timing, my timing was advanced off the chart. I attempted to rotate the pump toward the front to retard the timing, engine starts sputtering and smoking and timing was jumping from 38 to 250 or min to max? I'm suspecting I should recheck top dead center cam to crankshaft alignment again? The flywheel crank timing mark is pretty difficult to line up! Any suggestions would be welcome.

I'm also wondering a normal operating temp for fuel, mine was up in the 175 range?? Seems high?? I am using a later model A4 fuel filter with a return line bypass.

ps, a remanufactured pump from VW was about the same price as an authorized Bosch shop, which suprised me....
 

Havokk

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2009
Location
Rhode Island
TDI
1998 Jetta
greengeeker said:
this thread threw me for a loop...why the heck is Bruce asking for A3 timing help. Then I noticed the date :eek: (that's one heckuva necropost)
lol i think i dug this one out of a grave or something. its was very detailed so i had to comment on it.

also...
 

fastcash43

Active member
Joined
Apr 30, 2011
Location
trenton NJ
TDI
1.9 Jetta 028-906-021-AHU.lbl
Great write up but I have a question. How do you know if it's the cam sprocket or the injection pump that needs timing adjustment? If it's the cam that needs adjust but you mistakenly compensate by adjusting the pump can that leave the timing belt vulnerable to jump a tooth while driving down the road? I ask this before I hook up Vag-com for the 1st time. What are the clues to look for on vag com to help determine which side needs the adjustment ?

EDIT: ok I just had a chance to hook up VCDS and using the TDI graph it jumps all over both above and below the middle line reading from 38 to 51 during the rough idle that I've been experiencing. Anyone have any thoughts ?
 
Last edited:

paramedick

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor
Joined
Jul 29, 2001
Location
Versailles, Kentucky
TDI
2015 Audi Q5 TDI
EDIT: ok I just had a chance to hook up VCDS and using the TDI graph it jumps all over both above and below the middle line reading from 38 to 51 during the rough idle that I've been experiencing. Anyone have any thoughts ?
Either lots of air ingress, or the IP has lots of wear. Air will account for rough idle. So will the IP if it's too high or too low.
 

KLXD

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 22, 2009
Location
Lompoc, CA
TDI
'98, '2 Jettas
You don't normally adjust the cam. It is set when the belt is installed and you can't check it without removing the valve cover, setting the engine to TDC and looking at the groove in the end of the cam.

After I changed the seals on my pump but before resetting the IQ I had the timing making big vertical jumps. The IQ was very low. Once I adjusted it back where it belonged the timing settled down.

The previous pump had the jumping timing but the IQ was also meandering all over between zero and nine. The replacement pump cured both.

What's your IQ? Have you hammer modded it or had the QA off?
 

fastcash43

Active member
Joined
Apr 30, 2011
Location
trenton NJ
TDI
1.9 Jetta 028-906-021-AHU.lbl
Thanks all for your help. I did the hammer mod the other day and the inputs were way too low. I ended up having to only loosen the (3) T-30 bolts (ignoring the special triangle bolt) and everything seems to have settled down (no more bucking starting out in low gear or rough idle) my actually iq reading is now around 5 to 6 which leads to a new question. How high can I push iq and is it advisable to even try (with the goal of increasing mpg)
 

paramedick

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor
Joined
Jul 29, 2001
Location
Versailles, Kentucky
TDI
2015 Audi Q5 TDI
Thanks all for your help. I did the hammer mod the other day and the inputs were way too low. I ended up having to only loosen the (3) T-30 bolts (ignoring the special triangle bolt) and everything seems to have settled down (no more bucking starting out in low gear or rough idle) my actually iq reading is now around 5 to 6 which leads to a new question. How high can I push iq and is it advisable to even try (with the goal of increasing mpg)
Leave it where it is. Anything else is diminishing returns.
 
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