Zheking
Well-known member
I also want to add low side pressure got to around 90 and still no compressor kick on.
Yes. I'm not "throwing parts at it" the system is diagnosed... There's a slow leak in the compressor, and pressures indicated the compressor was on it's way out.Have you read DanG144's excellent AC troubleshooting thread yet? Like you were told to do in posts 7 & 8? Actually read it? Slowly & carefully?
Stop throwing parts at it and diagnose the system. It's not complicated and everything is pretty easy to physically reach.
Correct, yes the clutch isn't engaging.Just for clarification, when you say "compressor doesn't kick on" you mean the fan in the cabin is blowing air/working, just no cold coming out when set to a/c, correct?
Throwing parts at it. Didn't diagnose it.Went to charge the AC system for this summer. Got 1 can in (340g).
Throwing parts at it. Didn't diagnose it.started on can #2. got to a point where it wouldn't suck anymore in, compressor still didn't kick on to suck more in. Think the compressor is dead?
Wasn't diagnosed, guessing.note, compressor worked at the end of last summer until refrigerant got too low for it to kick on via pressure sensor (I'm guessing that's why?)
Diagnose the problem; stop throwing parts at it!any other suggestions to check before I just grab a compressor, dryer, and expansion valve?
You didn't read it. It covers the entire system comprehensively.yes I know there is an AC thread but it mainly talks about fans from what I saw.
Covered in Dan's thread. Read it.also, trying to figure out if i need the sanden or Nissens? (or is that just brand preference?)
Maybe, I dunno, diagnose those as well? Let a professional fix them?I've come to the conclusion AC just isn't meant for my life probably. maybe I should move to Alaska. Home AC was dead tonight when I got home from the office to start this project. and Xterra AC wants to blow hot after about 25 minutes of sitting still idling...
1. You are throwing parts at it.I'm not "throwing parts at it" the system is diagnosed... There's a slow leak in the compressor, and pressures indicated the compressor was on it's way out.
Covered in the AC thread linked.Is there a way to jumper the clutch to see if it engages?
Do you consider gasoline a part too? It's required for the car to run. Is the air you put into a tire a part? I've had to refill at tire while looking for a leak a few times before. Refrigerant is required for the AC system to run, but I wouldn't really consider it a part.... if you want to, fine.Throwing parts at it. Didn't diagnose it.
Throwing parts at it. Didn't diagnose it.
Wasn't diagnosed, guessing.
Diagnose the problem; stop throwing parts at it!
You didn't read it. It covers the entire system comprehensively.
Print it out at work, take it home. READ IT.
Covered in Dan's thread. Read it.
Maybe, I dunno, diagnose those as well? Let a professional fix them?
1. You are throwing parts at it.
2. Since we know you haven't read Dan's thread, is that what was indicated?
Covered in the AC thread linked.
Good luck Zheking & rrgrassi.
I think I have a pretty good idea where I need to go and what route I'll take from here now. I know compressor has a leak, as I did put UV in it last summer when I charged it. From what I could see, I did not see any leaks on any of the lines up to dryer and as best as I could see without removing the front end, i didn't see any on the condenser. I'm sure I will have a better view of it once I get the skid off to pull the compressor. Thanks to you and the others for constructive responses.First things first -- if it's leaking you need to find the leak and fix it. If there's any sort of UV dye in there a blacklight will find it FAST. If not it's cheap and "clean" (won't trash the system) to add a bit, and again, voila.
If the compressor is leaking at the shaft seal there's no rational thing to do but replace it. If it's leaking in the condenser or evaporator, or IN a line then obviously that's only got one fix too. The other possibility is any of the O-ring connections, or the service valves (which DO leak when they get old -- if they don't disintegrate internally, which also happens!)
But if you had more than ~30psi or so in the system and compressor didn't come on you have either (1) an electrical problem with the clutch coil or wiring to it, (2) one of the inputs to the ECU that tells the compressor to come on is not valid (pressure sensor, temperature sensor under the cowl, etc.) Throwing gas at a system that doesn't engage is a waste of time, and throwing gas in a system that is leaking is silly at best.
The "megathread" on this has a quite-complete troubleshooting procedure to figure out why the compressor isn't engaging. But you still need to take care of the mechanical (leak) problem and I'd find that cause first, then find the electrical issue because if the compressor is leaking AND the clutch coil is open then you're replacing the compressor (which will have a new clutch coil on it) anyway. Note that replacing the compressor REQUIRES a flush of the rest of the system components (and a new dryer) because the new compressor will come with oil in it and if you don't (1) there is likely to be crap in the rest that will destroy the new compressor in short order and (2) you HAVE TO get the remainder of the oil out of the rest of system or it will be quite-severely over-oiled, never mind full of oil that has gunk in it.
Oh, and it's illegal to intentionally vent refrigerant, so you SHOULD have a shop evacuate it. It's legal to pull your own vacuum and fill the system once fixed, however, provided you have the tools to do so correctly. You CANNOT fill these systems by pressure; you MUST do it by weight as the RCV in the compressor makes it impossible to get an accurate charge determination by looking at the pressures.
Finally since you're apparently new to refrigeration systems I will reiterate a warning I regularly post -- NEVER work on any refrigeration system without both FULL eye coverage (e.g. full-coverage safety goggles) AND hand protection (heavy gloves that go materially up your arm.) IF a line or seal ruptures while you're working on it, and it happens often enough to be of material concern the liquid in the system will flash-freeze ANYTHING it comes in contact with. If that happens to be your eyeball you're screwed.