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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old February 19th, 2018, 16:03   #16
Mongler98
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next time, when it happens, turn it off and back on again as your driving, if it goes good for a few minutes, Limp mode 100%
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Old February 24th, 2018, 12:02   #17
mustangmarty
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Good idea Mongler.

But before I try that, I had another thought. Before I changed the timing belt, the motor was running smoothly. Then when I was about to change the timing belt, I noticed that the camshaft was cock-eyed enough that the camshaft locking tool wouldn’t even come close to fitting into the camshaft slot while the crankshaft was dead nuts on TDC and the locking pin was in the injection pump pulley. This is before I removed the old timing belt.

Next I removed the timing belt and cracked loose the cam sprocket to put the camshaft back into the correct TDC position with the cylinder 1 camshaft lobes at 10:00 and 2:00 pointing up and the camshaft locking tool in place and tightened the cam sprocket back down. Now I have true TDC at all three points. Cam, Crank, and IP.

However, I have not moved the IP whatsoever. Am I correct in thinking that since I moved the camshaft without adjusting the IP to match, that my IP is now putting fuel into the cylinders at the incorrect time in relation to the cam timing? And will this cause it to feel like it’s running on three cylinders and is very low on power?

Next question... If this is the case, could I loosen the IP and adjust it by ear just to see if it helps smooth out the idle? And then whenever I get a VCDS cable, I could fine tune it more at that time?

Last edited by mustangmarty; February 24th, 2018 at 12:16.
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Old February 24th, 2018, 20:22   #18
turbodieseldyke
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I don't know how much you can ear-tune it. The only time(s) I did that, was after a TB change and the IP was too far off to start the car. I would "ear" it til it started and ran, then immediately Vagcommed it to get it right.

Good luck though.
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Old March 24th, 2018, 19:18   #19
mustangmarty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilhammer View Post
Recheck your physical cam and pump timing. Is the engine smoking or making noise?
Finally got a VCDS cable and checked it out. Cam, crank, and IP are all timed spot on. I adjusted the IP timing today. It was pretty close to the red line on the bottom of the VCDS graph and I adjusted it to a little above the blue line on the same graph. Took the car for a run and it still runs like poop. I don’t feel anything from the turbo at all.

Engine isn’t smoking at all. And it’s not making any strange noises other than sounding and feeling like it’s running on three cylinders. What are the chances one of my injectors have stopped working?

I haven’t tried turning the engine off and turning it back on again while driving down the road. Mainly because my tags and state inspection are expired.

Last edited by mustangmarty; March 24th, 2018 at 19:46.
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Old March 24th, 2018, 21:06   #20
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Look at the idle balance. Block 11 maybe? Three numbers between maybe -2.8 and 2.8.
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Old March 25th, 2018, 08:43   #21
mustangmarty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongler98 View Post
next time, when it happens, turn it off and back on again as your driving, if it goes good for a few minutes, Limp mode 100%
Tried this, and it doesnt make any difference. Still runs rough with no guts at all.

How do I test the injection pump for air leaks?
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Old March 25th, 2018, 09:32   #22
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IP is not the area to check, check the fuel lines and check valves at the tank. you might have a fuel starve from a cracked fuel line or something.
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Old March 30th, 2018, 23:20   #23
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I can see that it’s getting plenty of fuel. So far I’ve replaced the N75 valve and MAF. I’ve removed the intake manifold and cleaned all the carbon out of it as well as the intake runners in the head. I’ve cracked open and retightened each of the injectors one at time, and the engine slows down a bit for each one. Next I’m going to replace all the vacuum lines to see if that helps.

Last edited by mustangmarty; March 30th, 2018 at 23:22.
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Old April 1st, 2018, 11:08   #24
mustangmarty
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While researching vacuum line sizes, I came across a post about a possible plugged vacuum line or a stuck wastegate. Well, I blew compressed air through that line and some oil came out. Then I hooked it back up to the wastegate and put my mightvac hand pump on the other end of the line. And nothing. The wastegate rod didn’t move at all. So will a stuck wastegate cause the problems I’m having? I also noticed that I have an aweful lot of blowby, even at idle.

Last edited by mustangmarty; May 27th, 2018 at 14:12.
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Old April 1st, 2018, 11:29   #25
Mongler98
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yes, as we have stated, your actuator is mostly cause of concern.
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Old April 1st, 2018, 11:45   #26
mustangmarty
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Thanks, guess I missed that statement somehow. Wish I would have thought to check that while I had the turbo out when I was cleaning the intake manifold and runners.
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Old April 1st, 2018, 12:11   #27
mustangmarty
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Pardon my newbie question... But on a 1996, does the wastegate work off of pressure? Or off of vacuum?
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Old April 1st, 2018, 13:14   #28
KLXD
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Manifold pressure.
__________________
Saying no to gas for 25 years:

Current: 02 Jetta, Auto; 98 Jetta, 5 Spd; 98 Dodge, 5 Spd, SB, 4x4; 84 Grand Wagoneer with Nissan SD33T, NV4500, Dana 300, Reverse Cut Dana 44, Dana 60

The Black Sheep (Only gasser): 85 CJ, 4.2 w/4.0 Head and Mopar FI.

Past: 85 Mitsubishi PU, 4D55T; 81 Rabbit, 1.6; 80 Dasher, 1.5; 79 Rabbit, 1.5
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Old April 1st, 2018, 14:10   #29
mustangmarty
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Well, that might explain why the actuator rod didn’t move when I tried to activate it with the mightyvac.

Last edited by mustangmarty; April 1st, 2018 at 16:36.
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Old April 5th, 2018, 15:05   #30
mustangmarty
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Ok, I hooked a bicycle tire pump up to the hose that goes from the N75 down to the actuator, and the actuator rod moved like it should. From what I understand, the pressure supply for the N75 comes from the turbo itself via the hose that comes off the banjo fitting on the pressure side of the turbo. How much pressure should I be getting out of that hose at idle? How much at different RPM’s?

At idle I don’t see any pressure at all. At around 3,000 rmp I’m getting 8-10 psi.

I then hooked the turbo pressure hose back up to the N75 and checked the pressure coming out of the nipple that goes to the actuator. I get no pressure at all at that nipple no matter what the rpm’s are. But when I unplug the electrical harness from it, I then get pressure at the nipple that goes to the actuator.

Last edited by mustangmarty; April 5th, 2018 at 16:02.
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