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Upgrades (non TDI Engine related) The place of handling, lighting and other upgrades that do not relate to the performance or economy of the TDI engine. In other words upgrades to your TDI that don't fit into TDI Fuel Economy & TDI Engine Enhancements.Please note the Performance Disclaimer

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Old December 20th, 2017, 16:22   #1
gmo
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Co Durham , north east uk
Question r32 anti roll bar on a bora

have any folk on here fitted one over the stock item. was it worth it ?
i do a do lot of fast b road driving so want to get handling as sweet as possible with having to sell body parts just yet lol

thanks
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Old December 21st, 2017, 04:35   #2
bobbiemartin
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Originally Posted by gmo View Post
have any folk on here fitted one over the stock item. was it worth it ?
i do a do lot of fast b road driving so want to get handling as sweet as possible with having to sell body parts just yet lol thanks
If you are talking about the front roll bar, it takes more than swapping the roll bar. The R32, like the (later MK 1) Audi TT, uses rods to connect the roll bar to the struts. You can see them in this picture. So, you would need the struts, roll bar and linkage. The TT & R32 also have different lower control arms and hubs. If you swap the entire package - LCA, hubs, struts, etc - then yes, it makes a big difference.
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Old December 23rd, 2017, 10:34   #3
gmo
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Originally Posted by bobbiemartin View Post
If you are talking about the front roll bar, it takes more than swapping the roll bar. The R32, like the (later MK 1) Audi TT, uses rods to connect the roll bar to the struts. You can see them in this picture. So, you would need the struts, roll bar and linkage. The TT & R32 also have different lower control arms and hubs. If you swap the entire package - LCA, hubs, struts, etc - then yes, it makes a big difference.

hmm so much for seller telling it was straight swap lol

i may just go with this
http://www.eibachshop.co.uk/eibach-a...m#.Wj6hTP6UHIU

whats you take on this . i have done springs and shock, next step seem this and a strut brace
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Old December 23rd, 2017, 20:35   #4
[486]
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Originally Posted by gmo View Post
hmm so much for seller telling it was straight swap lol
i may just go with this
http://www.eibachshop.co.uk/eibach-a...m#.Wj6hTP6UHIU
whats you take on this . i have done springs and shock, next step seem this and a strut brace
if the rear one just bolts to the axle beam, it isn't doing anything if you look at the geometry for a little while

still, a few companies make them, as though that bar will be stiffer than the axle beam itself...

If you really want to go 'there' you'd gain a lot more rigidity by boxing in the beam where it goes across. Just plate in the opening of the C section, couple hours work with the cheapest flux core welder.
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Old December 24th, 2017, 02:49   #5
gmo
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if the rear one just bolts to the axle beam, it isn't doing anything if you look at the geometry for a little while

still, a few companies make them, as though that bar will be stiffer than the axle beam itself...

If you really want to go 'there' you'd gain a lot more rigidity by boxing in the beam where it goes across. Just plate in the opening of the C section, couple hours work with the cheapest flux core welder.
il probs just go with the front one mate , i thought about thre welding up option but if i dont like it its going to be a chew on to undo

thanks for you input.. im new to vw tdis ... i a bit of ford fan (mk1 focus) but seem to have been bitten by the pd bug
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Old December 24th, 2017, 06:11   #6
Rrusse11
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I recommend doing a heavier front AND the top strut brace. While you're at it, get a rear internal cabin brace as well. The combo really helps stiffen up body flex.
Really want to transform the car? Get a limited slip diff installed.
My $.02
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RC Stage 4: 11mm pump, 17/22, .230 nozzles, 3bar MAP:2.5" Exhaust: Koni Reds HD Springs, ~1"lift:VR6 fr swaybar, Top strut & rear tie bar: XXIO Racing Rims, 215/55ZR16 GMax AS03's, 10mm/20mm spacers, 35# @: Ventectomy: Atlas skid plate: 02J, SBC2 End, .717 5th, Peloquin LSD, Fluidampr: TT Short Shifter: Bosal Hitch: VW racks:
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Old December 25th, 2017, 05:05   #7
gmo
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Originally Posted by Rrusse11 View Post
I recommend doing a heavier front AND the top strut brace. While you're at it, get a rear internal cabin brace as well. The combo really helps stiffen up body flex.
Really want to transform the car? Get a limited slip diff installed.
My $.02
what diffs do you rate ? it on the to do list next summer when i get the gtb but atm i just cant afford it, start back at at old job end of feb.mid march so be sorted then

i have top strut ready but never thought about a boot one, the roads were i solid handling is a must..
good call .. cheers

would you keep front are rear bars same thickness or go slightly tinny on rear.. ive hread going to stiff on rear can cause snappy lift off over steer.
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Old December 27th, 2017, 05:56   #8
Rrusse11
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Originally Posted by gmo View Post
what diffs do you rate ? it on the to do list next summer when i get the gtb but atm i just cant afford it, start back at at old job end of feb.mid march so be sorted then

i have top strut ready but never thought about a boot one, the roads were i solid handling is a must..
good call .. cheers

would you keep front are rear bars same thickness or go slightly tinny on rear.. ive hread going to stiff on rear can cause snappy lift off over steer.
I went with the Peloquin. Lifetime warranty and better installation package, plus there's a local installer. I haven't driven any of the others, but I'm very happy with the results. I'm not sure if there's really that much difference between them, the principle is the same.

On the front bar I went from 21mm to 23mm. I do NOT have a rear bar, I did dial up my Koni Reds 25% for a bit of extra dampening.
Personally I think they are unnecessary with stiffer springs and shocks, like you say, they will increase the tendency for snap oversteer. My car is a daily driver, not a track car, I want it predictable. I did increase the rear track width with 20mm wheel spacers, 10mm on the front. That alone, getting both sets of wheels on the same track width, made a big difference to understeer.
A relatively cheap mod that paid big dividends in how the car handled IMO. I also searched long and hard to get a low weight
tire/rim combo, something most people don't pay attention to.

The front top strut brace coupled with the LSD transformed the car
in and out of the corners. With my Golf, that and the rear internal brace, made a BIG difference on the body flex, for $100 for both, it
was some of the best bang for the buck I've spent on improving handling.

I don't recommend lowering the car whatsoever, in fact I lifted mine,
see my sig for details. My take is you want the body to have some travel, but keep the rubber flat on the road. FWIW, I'm very happy
with what I've got, especially on the twisty country roads this neck of the woods. It's a blast in the bends, without being too stiff to be uncomfortable.

Have fun!




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RC Stage 4: 11mm pump, 17/22, .230 nozzles, 3bar MAP:2.5" Exhaust: Koni Reds HD Springs, ~1"lift:VR6 fr swaybar, Top strut & rear tie bar: XXIO Racing Rims, 215/55ZR16 GMax AS03's, 10mm/20mm spacers, 35# @: Ventectomy: Atlas skid plate: 02J, SBC2 End, .717 5th, Peloquin LSD, Fluidampr: TT Short Shifter: Bosal Hitch: VW racks:
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