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TDI Power Enhancements Discussions about increasing the power of your TDI engine. i.e. chips, injectors, powerboxes, clutches, etc. Handling, suspensions, wheels, type discussion should be put into the "Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)" forum. Non TDI vehicle related postings will be moved or removed. Please note the Performance Disclaimer.

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Old December 24th, 2017, 08:06   #16
Mongler98
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Well there are lots of people who have reported it doing NOTHING at all. Then there are people who also say that they can feel the extra power now once they have installed a co9ld air intake, when its been proven to death in dyno's that cold air filters are junk and rob HP.
Snake oil. Maybe it works on some Trans. I would say do it and stop asking. It’s cheap enough, isn’t going to hurt anything. Report back with results as I’m a sceptic as well
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Old December 25th, 2017, 01:44   #17
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Originally Posted by Mongler98 View Post
Well there are lots of people who have reported it doing NOTHING at all. Then there are people who also say that they can feel the extra power now once they have installed a co9ld air intake, when its been proven to death in dyno's that cold air filters are junk and rob HP.
Snake oil. Maybe it works on some Trans. I would say do it and stop asking. It’s cheap enough, isn’t going to hurt anything. Report back with results as I’m a sceptic as well

i intend to mate .ive spoke to several folk in person with the helix smf set ups on pds with 02m boxs and it worked a treat. still noisy as hell but no sticking in gears. ive also seen dozens of reports online it works for the helix smf kit. ive researched the hell out it as after paying a grand for clutch i was not happy the way if behaved in slow traffic and this is the only method ive come across that solves it. have you read the thread i link in the post?

Last edited by gmo; December 25th, 2017 at 01:49.
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Old December 25th, 2017, 10:56   #18
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so why are many reporting it solves the issues then mate unless it only works on car in the uk.. i dont know ,
perhaps the geometry of mentioned flywheel kits is completely wrong, placing the release point well out of the range of proper to bearing travel
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Old December 26th, 2017, 04:51   #19
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perhaps the geometry of mentioned flywheel kits is completely wrong, placing the release point well out of the range of proper to bearing travel
this is pretty much what ive read mate something to do with reliese bearing to, the helix kit seem to be notorious for it
. if im hammering the car , hard launch ect it fine and dream to drive fast when it works i cant fault it but the sticking of gears in town traffic pisses me off..
if it does stick i have to redip the clutch and blip the throttle or double the clucth and it sorts its self out. seriously gets on my nerves when stuck in traffic jam lol

il keep you posted how it goes, did you read btw link mate . seem,s to make sense
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Old January 4th, 2018, 19:46   #20
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that makes no sense
Hydraulic TO bearing is self adjusting. Run it out of travel and it blows out.
I guess I should get in the business of making shims to go atop the clutch pedal pad.
I would agree BUT some cars, they are under engineered, so due to tolerances, VW might have made the 6 speed throwout bearing travel borderline, so some will push the clutch enough to work, while other cars won't. Seems like this is the case this time.
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Old January 4th, 2018, 22:01   #21
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I would agree BUT some cars, they are under engineered, so due to tolerances, VW might have made the 6 speed throwout bearing travel borderline, so some will push the clutch enough to work, while other cars won't. Seems like this is the case this time.
know how the TO bearing's spring loaded against the PP fingers? it's self adjusting

meaning you push your clutch pedal and get your 5 CCs or whatever of brake fluid and the TO bearing moves the PP fingers X distance, no matter where it's at in its travel.

If somehow it runs out of travel it pushes the retaining ring off the end of the plastic center tube and likely starts leaking.
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Old January 5th, 2018, 02:40   #22
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I have made the same experience with using an aftermarket SMF clutch, in my case a SPEC stage 3 which would start creeping after a few days and forced me to shut the engine off to get out of gear or to put 1st gear in.

I have then added the OE shim on the wheels side of the transmission which minimized the axial play in the main shaft. Since then it drove fine for a few month, until the point was reached where the clutch wear was big enough to cause the same problems.

I think this is a basic design failure of some aftermarket clutches which need to much travel to fully disengage the clutch, leading to creeping and sticking in gears.

I swapped to a Sachs Race then and had no more problems ever since......
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Old January 5th, 2018, 06:36   #23
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Installed many, many, many clutch kits DM and SM and never did a shim thing!!
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Old January 5th, 2018, 09:05   #24
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So what im reading here and other threads is that this shim is useless and that its all about clutch wear and that using a better clutch fixes this. The shim is a band-aid for a much larger issue.
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Old January 5th, 2018, 11:06   #25
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Originally Posted by [486] View Post
know how the TO bearing's spring loaded against the PP fingers? it's self adjusting
meaning you push your clutch pedal and get your 5 CCs or whatever of brake fluid and the TO bearing moves the PP fingers X distance, no matter where it's at in its travel.
If somehow it runs out of travel it pushes the retaining ring off the end of the plastic center tube and likely starts leaking.
I know exactly how it works. Ok, let me try this again, my same explanation as before but maybe some clutch's need more travel, hence the reason why the shim fix's it. Chased a few OE cars for GM back in the day for the same problem. Better?
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2004 GSW TDI, blue, 5 speed-DD-Malone stage 2, no kitty, aeroturbine muffler, PD150's.
2003 JSW 1.8T future TDI, silver. 2006 JSW, TDI 5 speed, blue.
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Old January 5th, 2018, 19:23   #26
[486]
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Originally Posted by turbovan+tdi View Post
I know exactly how it works. Ok, let me try this again, my same explanation as before but maybe some clutch's need more travel, hence the reason why the shim fix's it. Chased a few OE cars for GM back in the day for the same problem. Better?
car with shim, TO bearing moves 4mm from 5cc of fluid
car without shim, TO bearing moves 4mm from 5cc of fluid

starting position of TO bearing is the same in both cases, pushed up against PP fingers with spring tension
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Old January 6th, 2018, 06:55   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [486] View Post
car with shim, TO bearing moves 4mm from 5cc of fluid
car without shim, TO bearing moves 4mm from 5cc of fluid
starting position of TO bearing is the same in both cases, pushed up against PP fingers with spring tension
Thank you 486 right on.
He would do better if he replace the fork and the bottom pivot with new OEM parts
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Old January 7th, 2018, 11:20   #28
[486]
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Thank you 486 right on.
He would do better if he replace the fork and the bottom pivot with new OEM parts
this is coaxial
no fork, no pivot
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Old January 9th, 2018, 16:49   #29
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Originally Posted by majesty78 View Post
I have made the same experience with using an aftermarket SMF clutch, in my case a SPEC stage 3 which would start creeping after a few days and forced me to shut the engine off to get out of gear or to put 1st gear in.

I have then added the OE shim on the wheels side of the transmission which minimized the axial play in the main shaft. Since then it drove fine for a few month, until the point was reached where the clutch wear was big enough to cause the same problems.

I think this is a basic design failure of some aftermarket clutches which need to much travel to fully disengage the clutch, leading to creeping and sticking in gears.

I swapped to a Sachs Race then and had no more problems ever since......
This happens a little with my 02Q DC stage 3 with SMF. Noticed as the temperature dips below freezing, the car does not want to come out of gear until I slow down or blip the accelerator pedal. Drives perfectly fine above that temp though. Now if only the thing would quiet down consistently at idle!
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Old January 10th, 2018, 18:42   #30
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Originally Posted by [486] View Post
car with shim, TO bearing moves 4mm from 5cc of fluid
car without shim, TO bearing moves 4mm from 5cc of fluid
starting position of TO bearing is the same in both cases, pushed up against PP fingers with spring tension
It moves the same but its closer to the PP.
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1984 6.2 Diesel Get A Way van, remote turbo setup designed/installed by me, burning anything that burns.
2003 GSW, 2.0L ALH, Colt Cam, 1756 turbo, auto, silver, 380k-Wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, blue, 5 speed-DD-Malone stage 2, no kitty, aeroturbine muffler, PD150's.
2003 JSW 1.8T future TDI, silver. 2006 JSW, TDI 5 speed, blue.
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