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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old November 26th, 2017, 08:09   #721
lovetogo
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: georgetown IN
Fuel Economy: Not enough , rite
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitedog View Post
HERE Is a thread where a guy with a 2006 had a fuel filter problem and HERE is his first thread about the same problem.
It turns out a check valve in the filter head failed, blocking fuel flow through the filter.
This is what the failed part looks like:

You can see a white thing in there just to the left of center. This is the check valve that failed. I'm trying to get a picture of an unfailed one as well as more information on this.
Did you ever get to look at a good check valve. do you think the white thing, is the flag showing its bad. I'm thinking it is . I have ordered a new filter housing if it dose turn out that the white thing is not showing I'll post .
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Old November 27th, 2017, 06:40   #722
lovetogo
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Originally Posted by lovetogo View Post
Did you ever get to look at a good check valve. do you think the white thing, is the flag showing its bad. I'm thinking it is . I have ordered a new filter housing if it dose turn out that the white thing is not showing I'll post .
Thanks so very much for all help on my X problem! I did the bypass and it started right up. The new filter housing is in the mail. Once it's in my hands Ill post photo if the lill white thing is not showing . So on the next problem, No power steering , with red wheel dash icon on . This car has a very nice sound system
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Old January 8th, 2018, 19:05   #723
Chyasgar
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Hi,
I’ve read through this entire thread and I’m still at a loss on where I should turn.
We’re looking for a new car currently and planning on donating this one to a local tech college. I’d like to get it to start so I don’t have to tow it.
Here’s my situation.

2001 VW Jetta TDI Automatic. Replaced starter in April, (3rd starter on the vehicle). As it’s gotten very cold up here in MN, the starter was giving me problems once the temperature was below about 20 or the car sat too long. The starter would crank for a few turns and the just zing like the solenoid was the only thing working. Essentially if the starter was under a difficult load, it failed internally. I was hoping to replace the car soon so I was just trying to limp it along.

Saturday it was very cold in the morning and the car barely started. I had to crank and turn the key off and back on and then it would turn the engine a few rounds. Needless to say the engine finally started but it took going back and forth for 8 minutes or so. I’m sure putting undo stress on the whole system.

I took off and was 10 minutes into my drive when the vehicle went into limp mode, not uncommon as the EGR valve leaks and it occasionally does this. I typically put it into neutral while driving, shut it off and turn it back on and I’m good to go. Except when I did it this time, the vehicle didn’t restart. I drifted over the side of the road and was stalled. It didn’t click, crank or make any noise. I had it towed home to my garage.

I just assumed the starter finally went, so I took the 8 month old starter in for a warranty replacement. They didn’t replace it because when they tested it, it worked but they weren’t putting the starter under a load and that’s when I had problems. I explained it was failing before today, but alright I wanted to get this project over with. I bought a new one anyways. Replaced it when I got home and still nothing.
No clicking, no solenoid sound nothing.

Battery is about a month old, fully charged.

I first though maybe it was the ignition switch folks have mentioned. Easy enough, the local parts store had a switch so I ran and picked it up and replaced it. Still nothing.
Lights come on, including glow plug lights.

I took the dash apart to the 13th Auxiliary Relay panel. I flipped it around and used my multi meter to test the power coming in and out the Park/neutral relay (position 11, relay 175) and it seems to be working best I can tell and you can hear an audible click. Relay 109 has been updated with the grey version and I’m assuming I can rule that out because the glow plug light comes on.

Using my Multimeter I measured the voltage on the starter from the main cable directly from the battery at 12.4. The small wire that plugs into the starter with the clip, has nothing or very little voltage until I turn the key where it jumps to 12.4 or so. I’m assuming this is what signals the starter to engage?
I also used a piece of wire to jump from the main cable to the solenoid and the solenoid spins. So it seems the new starter is good as well.

I removed and cleaned both grounds below the battery and on transmission. No luck.

I read something about the EGR valve possibly being stuck open but I manually moved it back and forth and it’s closed.

Anyways, I’m hoping someone with much more knowledge then me sees something obvious. The first time I tested if the small wire going to the starter was getting power when the key was turned, my wife misunderstood me and wasn’t actually turning it to start when I was testing it. So I spent most of Saturday thinking I was tracing down something breaking the current in between. I couldn’t find anything and retested the small wire and realized I was getting 12.4 to it when the key was turned.

When the key is turned, there is voltage drop from 12.4-12.5 down to 11.5 on the main starter cable. I’m trying to figure out if that means something, scratching my head on where the voltage is going since the starter isn’t moving.

I thought maybe the cable was bad so I connected a jumper cable from the positive on the battery to the large cable connection on the starter, no luck. I did the same from the ground on the battery to the knob that sticks out of the end of the starter thinking it was a ground issue, no effect.

I have power to the main wire on the starter and when I turn the key, the little wire gets 12.4-12.5. Shouldn’t the starter be engaging?

Any ideas would be much appreciated. I live 40 miles from the school I’d like to donate the car to for their auto mechanic program but I’d rather not have the towing expense. Plus, for my own sanity... I really want to solve this. I've had a lot of good years with this car and want to go out on a good note!

Thanks in advance! This forum has helped me a lot over the years but this is the first time I've had to post.

Thanks for reading!

-Chris

Last edited by Chyasgar; January 8th, 2018 at 19:08.
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Old January 8th, 2018, 21:14   #724
whitedog
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Chris, try voltage drop from the battery post to the connector. It should be close to zero. If that's good, then go to the bottom big terminal of the starter and test again.
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Old January 9th, 2018, 03:32   #725
Chyasgar
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Whitedog,

Just so I'm clear and not screwing this up.

You're saying measure voltage drop from the positive battery post to the connector (terminal 50 plug)? I'm assuming I'm just unplugging the plug to test it and turning the key?

Then Positive battery post to the main big terminal on the starter that goes directly to the battery?

Sorry, I haven't dealt much with electrical issues in my self taught mechanical career.

Thank you.

Chris
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Old January 9th, 2018, 03:51   #726
AndyBees
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Chyasgar, the Solenoid serves two purposes.

1. It engages the starter gear to the flywheel gear (the Solenoid is a big coil that becomes a magnet when 12 volts is applied).

2. It is a contact switch to provide 12 volts to the starter through the big wire.

I think Whitedog wants you to check voltage at the Solenoid on the big wire from the battery... which should be zero drop from the battery. Then, if that is okay, check voltage on the other side of the Solenoid at the bare wire going down to the Starter. This is to confirm that the contact switch is working. It's located on the bottom side of the Solenoid next to the Starter and is quite short! It may or may not have insulation on it. But, the nut is there where it is attached to the Solenoid.

Hope this helps!
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Old January 9th, 2018, 05:06   #727
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Start at the battery and check voltage drop across every connection and conductor. Check from the battery to the battery cable connector. This checks for corrosion between the battery terminals and the battery cable connector. You have already checked the wire from the battery to the starter, now keep going down stream across every connection and conductor. Starter cable end to post on starter, stater post to starter post. Starter post to starter motor cable.
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Old January 9th, 2018, 18:32   #728
Chyasgar
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I measured all the connections and it seems that there isn't a voltage drop difference. 11.8 with someone holding the key down.

I tried measuring the ground side of things to see if i found any abnormalities and I did not seem to. I noticed when I checked the ground from the block to the starter, I had to have the probes just right to get a steady reading.

I already cleaned the ground cables in both the obvious places under the battery and on the transmission.

Does this possible point to a bad ground cable in your opinions?

Thanks,

Chris
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Old January 16th, 2018, 20:46   #729
Chyasgar
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Hi everyone,

Checking back in to see if anyone has any other ideas
On my dilemma. As i mentioned, I have power to both wires on the starter when I should and voltage drop seems to be fine.

The ground seems like it might be a little touchy. Other than under battery and on the transmission block, would there be any other grounds that could be causing a no crank?

Thanks,

Chris
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Old January 17th, 2018, 06:24   #730
tonyweiss11
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Location: Kansas
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Hi everyone,

I have another question about cold weather driving. Yesterday it was a high of about 10 here and got in the negatives two nights ago and last night. I leave my car in our shop usually when its that cold out so its somewhat warmer than outside. I started up drove to work (about an hour drive) parked my car and left it outside for about 9-10 hours. I came back and it started right up first try. I drove it back home another hour (50 miles or so), parked it in the driveway shut it off went inside for 15 minutes to change clothes, came back out to drive it out to our shop for the night and it wouldn't start.

After pushing it into the garage and letting it heat up awhile and getting a vacuum pump on the fuel lines I got it to start but I couldn't figure out why this would happen after driving for so long and having it start just fine after sitting in 10 degree weather and wind all day. I run anti gel additive in the winter and have never had a gel problem yet this year and it has been a very cold winter. Could of been bad diesel but this tank I had already driven about 500 miles when this happened with no other issues. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Tony
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Old January 20th, 2018, 15:28   #731
Richy_T
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Thanks for this thread. I have had my car for about 10 years now and it has always been a bit of a slow start in the cold. It would only really refuse to start when it was 20 or below but I'd usually remember to plug in the frost heater and when it was cold, it was too cold to look at and when it was warm, it was out-of-sight, out-of-mind.

Well, I finally got to it and just replaced the thing. It's night and day. Even a warm start you can tell it's a much easier start. It used to be rrr-rrr-fire but now it's almost instantaneous. Now I want a really cold day again to try it out.
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Old January 20th, 2018, 19:01   #732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richy_T View Post
Thanks for this thread. I have had my car for about 10 years now and it has always been a bit of a slow start in the cold. It would only really refuse to start when it was 20 or below but I'd usually remember to plug in the frost heater and when it was cold, it was too cold to look at and when it was warm, it was out-of-sight, out-of-mind.

Well, I finally got to it and just replaced the thing. It's night and day. Even a warm start you can tell it's a much easier start. It used to be rrr-rrr-fire but now it's almost instantaneous. Now I want a really cold day again to try it out.
What did you replace?
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Old January 27th, 2018, 05:20   #733
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What did you replace?
Car?
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Old February 8th, 2018, 17:57   #734
hypno
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is there a possibility that dirty or thick oil would keep a 2004 1.9 tdi beetle from starting ?
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Old February 8th, 2018, 20:30   #735
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is there a possibility that dirty or thick oil would keep a 2004 1.9 tdi beetle from starting ?
It shouldn't.
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